La Mezquita, Cordoba
Although it has officially been a Christian site for almost nine centuries, La Mezquita’s identity as a mosque is inescapable – notwithstanding the cathedral insensitively placed in its centre like a huge spider in its web. As with the Alhambra (for further details see Moorish Granada: The Alhambra), Emperor Carlos V can be blamed for this aesthetic indiscretion. Overriding the wishes of Córdoba’s mayor, Carlos authorized the cathedral’s construction in the 16th century, although he deeply regretted his decision upon beholding the completed travesty. Yet, despite time’s every indignity, the world’s third-largest mosque remains a place of grandeur, glory and ineffable mystical power.
Calle Torrijos, Córdoba • 957 47 05 12 • www.turismodecordoba.org • Open Mar–Oct: 10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–11:30am & 3–7pm Sun & hols; Nov–Feb: 8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–11:30am & 3–6pm Sun & hols. • Adm adults: €8.00; children (10–14): €4.00; children under 8 free
1. The Caliphal Style
The mosque was begun by Caliph Abd el-Rahman I in AD 786. La Mezquita constitutes the beginning of the Caliphal architectural style, combining Roman, Gothic, Byzantine, Syrian and Persian elements.
2. Puerta del Perdon
Originally entrance to the mosque was gained via many doors, also designed to let in light. This door, the Gate of Forgiveness (1377), is in Mudéjar style and is now the only one open to the public.
3. Patio de los Naranjos
The delightful Courtyard of the Orange Trees would have been used by worshippers to perform ritual ablutions before prayer.
4. Torre del Alminar
A minaret once stood where the belfry now is. Built in 957, it was enveloped in this Baroque belltower.
5. Interior
The plan of the interior is that of a so-called “forest” mosque, with the rows and rows of variegated columns (856 remaining) and arches said to evoke date palms. Unlike Christian churches, based on earlier Roman basilicas with their focus on the central enthroned “judge”, the Islamic aim is to induce an expansive, meditative state for prayer.
6. Recycled Columns
Great ingenuity was required to achieve the rhythmic uniformity inside, since most of the columns used in construction were recycled from Roman, Visigothic and other sources. They were a hotchpotch of varying sizes, so the longer ones had to be sunk into the floor. To reach the desired height, a second tier was added.
7. Mihrab
Dating from the 10th century, this is the jewel of the mosque. An octagonal chamber set into the wall, it was to be the sacred focal point of prayer, directed towards Mecca. No amount of ornamentation was spared. Emperor Nicephorus III sent artisans from Constantinople to create some of the finest Byzantine mosaics in existence.
8. Capilla de Villaviciosa & Capilla Real
One of the happier Christian additions, the Villaviciosa Chapel has exuberant arches in the Mudéjar style and dates from 1377. Next to it, the Royal Chapel sports appealing Mudéjar stucco work and azulejo (tile) decoration.
9. Cathedral
In 1523 some 60 of the 1,013 columns were removed from the heart of the mosque and others walled up so as to construct the cathedral.
10. Choir Stalls
The Baroque choir stalls date from 1758, and the exquisite carved mahogany depicts Biblical scenes.
A Spiritual Site
This magnificent edifice was not the first religious structure to be built on this spot. The Caliph bought the land from the Christians, who had built the Visigothic Cathedral of St Vincent here. In its last years, that building had been divided by a partition, so that it could serve the needs of Christian and Muslim communities. The Visigothic structure, in its turn, had been constructed on top of a Roman temple, and its columns are still visible in La Mezquita.
Tip: El Caballo Rojo, C/Cardenal Herrero 28, 957 47 53 75, €30–€40 is located just across from the Puerta del Perdón. It’s a local favourite, and many recipes are Moorish influenced. Dine on the top-floor terrace for views of the mosque. Tip: Last admission is 30 minutes before closing, but try to allow at least an hour to do the site justice.
