Moorish Granada: The Alhambra
The great complex of the Alhambra is the best-preserved medieval Arab palace in the world and, with nearly two million visitors annually, it is also the most popular monument in Spain. Built on the largely inaccessible Sabika Hill overlooking the city of Granada, its most distinctive phase began in the 11th century as the qa’lat al-Hamra (Red Fort) of the Ziridian rulers. From the 13th to almost the end of the 15th century the kings of the succeeding Nasrid dynasty embellished the site in a most spectacular fashion. The later Christian additions, although handsome in their own right, are generally thought to clash with the delicate, evocative architecture of the Moors.
Open mid-Mar–mid-Oct: 8:30am–8pm daily, 10–11:30pm Fri–Sat; mid-Oct–mid-Mar: 8:30am–6pm daily, 8–9:30pm Fri–Sat; Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec • Adm €14.30
Museo de la Alhambra • 8:30am–6pm Wed–Sat (to 8pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct); 8:30am–2:30pm Tue & Sun; closed Mon, Jan 1, Dec 25. Night visits: May–Sep: 9–11:30pm Fri • Free
1. Puerta de la Justicia
Built in 1348, this magnificent horseshoe arch makes use of Arab defensive techniques – a steep approach combined with four right-angled turns – to slow down invading armies.
2. Puerta del Vino
The “Wine Gate” – so called because it was used as a wine cellar in the 16th century – marks the main entrance arch to what was once the Medina (market).
3. Plaza de los Aljibes
From these ramparts visitors can enjoy superb views of Granada. The giant cisterns (aljibes) underneath were built by the Christian conquerors.
4. Alcazaba
Although largely in ruins, this fortress is well worth a look. Don’t miss climbing up onto the Torre de la Vela for views of the Sierra Nevada.
5. Palacio de Carlos V
This Italian Renaissance palace is the masterpiece of Pedro Machuca, a student of Michelangelo. Housed here are the Museo de la Alhambra, with a fine collection of Nasrid art, and the Museo de Bellas Artes, with a range of interesting Christian works.Museo de la Alhambra • 8:30am–6pm Wed–Sat (to 8pm mid- Mar–mid-Oct); 8:30am–2:30pm Tue & Sun; closed Mon, Jan 1, Dec 25. Night visits: May–Sep: 9–11:30pm Fri • Free
6. Palacios Nazaries
The Nasrid palaces are built of simple brick, wood and stucco, in keeping with Islamic thought not to compete with the creations of Allah.
7. Palacio de Mexuar
The most poorly preserved of the three palaces, this area was the most public space, dedicated to judicial and bureaucratic business. The original structure dates from 1365, but there are obvious Christian overlays, since it was converted to a chapel in the 16th century.
8. Palacio de Comares
Built in the mid-14th century, this area constituted the Serallo, where the sultan would receive dignitaries and deal with diplomatic issues. Inside is the Salón de Embajadores, the main throne room of the Alhambra. In front of the palace is the Patio de Arrayanes, where serene fountains and pools, fragrant plantings, and elaborate wood and stucco work are all strictly geometric in design yet delicately refined, often featuring inscribed poems in praise of Allah.
9. Palacio de los Leones
Dating from the late 1300s, this palace was the Harem, the private zone reserved for the sultan and his family. The fountain of 12 lions, in the central courtyard of the palace, may represent the 12 signs of the zodiac, the 12 hours of the clock, or the 12 tribes of Israel.
10. Partal
As you leave the Alhambra, stroll through the gardens with their fountains and watercourses laid out in an area that used to have palaces of its own. All you can see of them now are five porticoed arches. This area leads up to the Generalife, the summer palace.
Tip: There are snacks and drinks available within the compound, but taking your own bottle of water is a good idea. Tip: Visitor numbers are restricted, so avoid queues by booking tickets in advance, through your hotel, by phone (958 92 60 31) or online at www.alhambra-patronato.esMoorish Granada: Generalife
1. The Towers
Following the gardens of the Partal as you walk towards the Generalife, you will encounter a number of restored Moorish towers built into the wall. The Torre de los Picos, Torre del Cadí, Torre de la Cautiva, Torre de las Infantas, Torre del Cabo de la Carrera and Torre del Agua are all worth a look for their fine detail, as well as for the views they command. The Torre de la Cautiva and the Torre de las Infantas are twin tower-palaces with richly decorated rooms.
2. The Hill of the Sun
A footbridge flanked by two towers takes you over to the hill that rises above the Alhambra. A vast summer palace once stood here, amid 75 acres (30 ha) of gardens, which predated the Alhambra by a century, although little of it now remains.
3. The Name of the Garden
The word Generalife is generally considered to be a corruption of the Arab phrase Djinat al-Arif, which can be translated as “the Architect’s Garden” (referring to Allah) or simply “the Best Garden” or “the High Garden”. In an impressive engineering feat the Darro River was diverted 18 km (11 miles) to provide water for this lush sanctuary.
4. Teatro
The first thing you will encounter as you climb the hill is the amphitheatre, nestled into a tree-lined hollow. Dance performances and musical concerts are offered here as part of an annual festival of the arts.
5. Jardines Nuevos
The “New Gardens” are also called the Lower Gardens, and it is clear at a glance that they owe little to Moorish taste. Hedges and formal patterns echo the Italian style, but the sound of running water creates a soothing atmosphere in keeping with the Moorish ideal. In Islam, Paradise is defined as an oasis – a water garden full of fragrant blossoms.
6. Jardines Altos
As you reach the entrance to the upper gardens, you will first encounter the Patio de Polo, where visitors would leave their horses before ascending to the palace. On this level you will be welcomed by a series of fountains and formal plantings, interlaced with walkways and copses.
7. Patio de la Acequia
The “Court of the Long Pool” is the most famous water spectacle of the garden. Perfectly proportioned pools are set off by rows of water jets. At one end stands one of the complex’s most harmonious buildings, the Sala Regia, with its decorated arcades and airy portico.
8. Patio de los Cipreses
The Court of the Cypresses is also known as the Patio of the Sultana, for this is where Zoraya, the wife of Boabdil, is said to have secretly met her lover, the chief of the Abencerrajes clan. The sultan had the chief’s men massacred upon discovery of the infidelity. A 700-year-old cypress tree commemorates the trysting place.
9. Escalera del Agua
These staircases above the palace, also known as the Camino de las Cascadas, have handrails that double as watercourses. They are best in spring, when the wisteria is in bloom.
10. Leaving the Gardens
As you exit the gardens you will pass along the Paseo de las Adelfas and the Paseo de los Cipreses, lined respectively with oleanders and cypresses. Back to the Hill of the Sun, take Cuesta del Rey Chico down to the Albaicín.
History of the Alhambra
This picturesque castle was the last bastion of al-Andalus, the Moorish hegemony that, at its height, included almost the entire Iberian Peninsula. By 1237 the Christians had reconquered all but this emirate, but the Moors managed to flourish here for some 250 years longer, only succumbing to the forces of King Fernando and Queen Isabel in 1492 (for further details see Moorish Sophistication). The Generalife was the summer palace to which the Moorish leaders could escape the political life of the palace and the bustling city below and relax in the beautifully landscaped grounds. After centuries of neglect, and attempts by Napoleon’s army to blow the palace up, the Moorish structures were preserved in the early 19th century, after the American writer Washington Irving inspired the world with his popular travel journal entitled Tales of the Alhambra.
Moorish Granada: Albaicin
1. Real Chancilleria
The austerely impressive Royal Chancery dates from 1530, built shortly after the reconquista as part of the futile attempt to Christianize this Moorish quarter. The palace is attributed to architect Diego de Siloé.
2. Iglesia de Santa Ana
At the end of Plaza Nueva stands this 16th-century brick church in Mudéjar style, built by Muslim artisans for Christian patrons. Inside the main chapel is a coffered ceiling in the Moorish tradition. The belltower was originally a minaret.
3. El Banuelo (Banos Arabes)
Dating from the 11th century, these are the best preserved Moorish baths in Spain. They comprise several rooms that were used for changing, meeting, massage and bathing.Carrera del Darro 31 • 958 22 97 38 • Open 9:30am–2pm Tue–Sat • Free
4. Casa de Castril
This ornate 16th-century mansion was originally owned by the secretary to King Fernando and Queen Isabel. Since 1879 it has served as the Archaeological and Ethnological Museum, displaying artifacts from Granada’s past, from the Paleolithic era up until the Reconquest in 1492. Although it is currently closed for renovations, some of its finest pieces are on show at the Centro Cultural CajaGranada.
Carrera del Darro 43 • Closed for renovation
Centro Cultural CajaGranada • Av. de la Ciencia 2 • 958 22 22 57
5. Iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo
Across the road from the Casa de Castril, this church also dates from the 1500s and graces an attractive spot on the banks of the river. From here you can see the towers of the Alhambra dominating the landscape.
6. Paseo de los Tristes
This tree-lined esplanade follows the course of the river upstream. It is broad enough to have once accommodated tournaments and processions, but now restaurants and bars dominate the scene.
7. Plaza Larga
From the Paseo de los Tristes follow Calle Panaderos to reach this busy market square, where you’ll find mostly produce stalls as well as cheap eateries and bars. The square sports an Islamic gateway with a typically angled entrance as part of what remains of the upper fortifications. This is the Arco de las Pesas – if you pass through it you will come to the Albaicín’s most popular square, Plaza San Nicolás.
8. El Mirador de San Nicolas
This magnificent terrace in front of the Iglesia de San Nicolás has such lovely views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada that it has long been dubbed El Mirador (“The Lookout Point”) de San Nicolás. The views are extraordinary at sunset, when the Alhambra glows softly ochre and the often snow-capped Sierra Nevada radiates pink in the distance.
9. Tearooms
As you wander around the labyrinth of whitewashed houses and tiny sloping alleyways of the Albaicín quarter you will encounter many tearooms – a Moroccan tradition that is very much alive in this quarter. Possibly the best one, La Tetería del Bañuelo, consists of a series of rooms set amid delightful gardens. Here you can sip your minty brew, nibble honeyed sweets and contemplate the timeless panorama.
10. Moroccan Shops
Check out the hilly streets off Calle Elvira, especially Caldería Vieja and Caldería Nueva, for typically Moroccan shops. The scene is indistinguishable from what you would find in Morocco itself, with the colourful wares spilling out onto the pavements.
Sacromonte Gypsy Caves
Leaving the Albaicín quarter to the north, follow the Camino del Sacromonte to reach the hill of the same name. The so-called “Holy Hill” is most noted for the presence of some 3,500 caves traditionally inhabited by gypsies (for further details see Cave-dwelling). For more than six centuries, the zone has been notorious for wild goings-on, most especially zambras, impromptu gypsy fiestas of flamenco music and dance, and outsiders have always been welcome to witness their cultural celebrations. Today some 80 per cent of the caves are still occupied and several of them continue to operate as venues for tourist spectacles.
