BERLIN’S SOUTHEAST
Berlin’s east and south are remarkably different in character. Friedrichshain, Lichtenberg and Hohenschönhausen in the east are densely built-up, with their old tenement blocks evoking stark memories of World War II and perhaps even more of life during the bleak days of the East German regime. Green Treptow and idyllic Köpenick in the far southeast, meanwhile, seem almost like independent villages and, together with Großer Müggelsee, are popular day trip destinations for visitors and Berliners alike.
1. Köpenicker Altstadt and Köpenicker Schloss
Schloss: Schlossinsel • Open 11am–6pm Thu–Sun (winter: until 5pm) • Adm • www.smb.museum
The island community of Köpenick has a venerable history: as early as the 9th century, people had settled on Schlossinsel. The village stayed independent until 1920. Its coat of arms still features two fish, and the Altstadt (old town) on the Dahme River has 18th–19th-century fishermen’s huts. On 16 October 1906, Wilhelm Voigt, dressed as a captain, led soldiers into the Rathaus (town hall) on Alt-Köpenick, arrested the mayor and “confiscated” the municipal coffers. The “Hauptmann von Köpenick” (Captain of Köpenick) is commemorated by a statue in front of the Rathaus. The 1904 structure is a good example of Gothic brick architecture from Brandenburg. The charming Baroque Köpenick palace, on Schlossinsel in the south of the district, was built in 1677–81 for the future King Frederick I by Dutch architect Rutger van Langervelt. It now houses collections from the Kunstgewerbemuseum.
A view of the small town of Köpenick from the Spree River
2. Mercedes-Benz Arena
Mühlenstr. 12–30/O2-Platz 1 • Tickets: (030) 20 60 70 88 99 • www.mercedes-benz-berlin.de
The city’s largest entertainment arena, seating 17,000 people, hosts pop concerts and shows of all kinds, as well as being home to the Alba Berlin basketball team and the Eisbären Berlin ice-hockey club.
The Mercedes-Benz Arena
3. Stasi-Museum Berlin
Ruschestr. 103, Haus 1 • Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, noon–6pm Sat & Sun • Adm • www.stasimuseum.de
The former headquarters of the feared Stasi, East Germany’s secret police, is now a memorial to the victims of the East German regime and of Erich Mielke, the minister in charge of the secret police. Visitors can see his offices, the canteen and spying equipment used by the Socialist regime.
Button spy camera, Stasi-museum
4. Deutsch-Russisches Museum
Zwieseler Str. 4 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.museum-karlshorst.de
World War II ended here on 8 May 1945, when Germany signed its unconditional surrender. Documents, uniforms and photographs, displayed in the former officers’ casino, relate the story of the war.
5. East Side Gallery
Mühlenstraße • (030) 251 71 59 • Open 24 hours • www.eastsidegallery-berlin.de
A 1.3-km (0.8-mile) section of the Berlin Wall was left standing next to the Spree River. In 1990, 118 artists from around the world painted onto the concrete, making it a unique work of art (see East Side Gallery). Particularly famous is a mural by Russian Dmitri Vrubel showing Erich Honecker and Leonid Brezhnev kissing. Most murals were restored by the original artists in 2009.
Colourful murals at the city’s East Side Gallery
6. Großer Müggelsee
Treptow-Köpenick district
Nicknamed Berlin’s “Large Bathtub”, the Großer Müggelsee is the city’s biggest lake. Müggelsee is not as popular as Großer Wannsee, mainly because it is so far from the centre of town. It is known for the beer gardens on its south side, which can be reached on foot or by boat from Friedrichshagen. You can swim in the lake, and around it are great walking and cycling paths.
7. Treptower Park
Alt-Treptow
Established in the 19th century for the city’s working classes, Treptower Park is today best known for its Sowjetisches Ehrenmal (Soviet Memorial). In April 1945, 7,000 Red Army soldiers who died during the liberation of Berlin were buried here. Beyond the mass graves is a 12-m (39-ft) bronze statue of a Russian soldier holding a child and a sword with which he has destroyed the Nazi hakenkreuz symbol.
Sculpture detail, Treptower Park
8. Friedrichshain
This densely built-up area grew rapidly during the industrialization of the late 19th century. It became an Allied target during the war and it was one of Berlin’s most damaged districts. After the fall of the Wall, Friedrichshain attracted a young population, and it is now one of the city’s most popular areas, home to trendy design and media companies, bars, clubs, and cafés, mostly set around Boxhagener Platz and Simon-Dach-Straße. Its Volkspark (see Friedrichshain) houses Ludwig Hoffman’s Märchenbrunnen fountain, decorated with fairytale characters, and the wooded Großer and Kleiner Bunkerberg hillocks.
Märchenbrunnen, Volkspark
9. Tierpark Berlin
Am Tierpark 125 • (030) 51 53 10 • Opening times vary, check online • Adm • www.tierpark-berlin.de/tierpark
Located in the Friedrichsfelde Palace park, Europe’s largest zoological garden (see Tierpark Berlin) hosts several rare species. The Siberian tigers in their rocky outdoor enclosures are worth a visit. The park is known for its successful elephant breeding programme. The 1695 palace sits in the middle of this estate.
10. Gedenkstätte Hohenschönhausen
Genslerstr. 66 • English guided tours Apr–Oct: 11am & 2:30pm; Nov–Mar: 2:30pm • Adm • en.stiftung-hsh.de
This former secret police prison for political prisoners was in use until 1990. Before 1951, it served as a reception centre for the Red Army. You can visit the watchtowers and cells – particularly horrifying are the windowless “submarine cells” for solitary confinement and torture.
A DAY IN BERLIN’S SOUTHEAST
MORNING
Begin your tour of Berlin’s Southeast at Alexanderplatz. Sights on this tour are not always near each other, so using public transport is recommended.
Take the U-Bahn line U5 to Magdalenenstraße station, from where it is a short walk to the Stasi-Museum Berlin. Return to the station and continue on U5 to Tierpark Berlin, where you can spend some time exploring both the zoological garden and the beautifully restored Schloss Friedrichsfelde, built in early Neo-Classical style. Then catch bus No. 296 from the Tierpark U-Bahn station to the Deutsch-Russisches Museum.
AFTERNOON
From the museum, either walk (15 minutes) or take bus No. 296 southwest down Rheinsteinstraße to the S Karlshorst tram stop. No. 27 goes direct to Rathaus Köpenick. Stop for a typically German meal in the Ratskeller, the town hall’s cellar restaurant. Afterwards explore Köpenick Old Town (see Köpenicker Altstadt and Köpenicker Schloss). The old fishing village is especially worth a visit. There are many cafés near Köpenicker Schloss where you could stop for coffee and cake. Continue your journey by tram No. 60 to Friedrichshagen, the access point for the Großer Müggelsee. From here take one of the tourist boats across the lake to Müggelsee-Terrassen, where you can round off the day with an evening meal at a choice of restaurants.
Bars and Clubs
1. Berghain
Am Wriezener Bahnhof • (030) 29 36 02 10 • Open 8pm–6am Thu, midnight–late Fri & Sat, 3pm–6am Sun
Set in a former power station, this club (see Berghain) has a strict door policy. A good sound system and cool crowds make the wait worthwhile.
2. Arena
Eichenstr. 4 • (030) 533 20 30 • Check opening days in advance
This post-industrial riverside complex is an unusual mix of concert halls, a club ship (Hoppetosse) and a moored swimming pool (Badeschiff).
3. Cassiopeia
Revaler Str. 99 • (030) 47 38 59 49 • Open from 7pm Wed–Sat
Join hippies, punks and freestylers in this underground urban enclave for ungentrified clubbing and live gigs.
4. Sisyphos
Hauptstraße 15 • www.sisyphos-berlin.net
Inside a former factory, this large techno club is famous for its parties.
5. Matrix
Warschauer Platz 18 • (030) 29 36 99 90 • Open 10pm–7am daily
Inside vaults under the Warschauer Straße train station, Matrix is one of the largest clubs in the city. It attracts a young crowd and Berlin’s best DJs.
Matrix, set under railway arches
6. Festsaal Kreuzberg
Am Flutgraben 2 • (030) 551 50 65 87 • Open from 4pm Mon–Sun
One of Berlin’s best live music halls, this all-in-one venue hosts rock, alternative and indie bands and has a lovely beer garden.
7. Monster Ronson’s Ichiban Karaoke Bar
Warschauer Str. 34 • (030) 89 75 13 27 • Open from 7pm daily
At this lively bar, karaoke fans either practise their art in soundproof booths that can fit up to 16 people, or sing on a stage. Try the brunch on Sundays.
8. Salon zur Wilden Renate
Alt Stralau 70 • (030) 25 04 14 26 • Open 6pm–2am Wed–Thu, 6pm–8am Fri, 6pm–6am Sat & Sun • No credit cards • No disabled access
Styled like a living room, this club is spread across several floors. It plays house and techno house music and often has a queue at the door.
9. Insel
Alt-Treptow 6 • (030) 53 60 80 20 • Club: open 7pm–1am Wed, 8pm–late Fri & Sat
This miniature castle on a Spree island houses a beer garden by day and a club by night. Live concerts in summer; poetry slams and ping pong in winter.
10. CSA
Karl-Marx-Allee 96 • (030) 29 04 47 41 • Open from 7pm daily • No credit cards
Named after the Czech Airlines office that was based here, CSA is a stylish cocktail bar serving perfect drinks to pleasant lounge music.
Restaurants
1. freiheit fünfzehn
Freiheit 15 • (030) 65 88 78 25 • Open from 4pm Mon–Sat, 11am–midnight Sun • €
German and French cuisine served aboard a schooner moored on the Müggelspree. If you prefer dry land, you can dine in the beer garden.
2. Ratskeller Köpenick
Alt-Köpenick 21 • (030) 655 51 78 • Open 11am–11pm daily • €€
Traditional fare is served in the vaulted cellars where Wilhelm Voigt famously conned local civil servants.
Vast vaults of Ratskeller Köpenick
3. Klipper Schiffsrestaurant
Bulgarische Str. • (030) 53 21 64 90 • Open 10am–1am daily • No credit cards • €
This two-masted 1890 boat has been turned into a cosy restaurant; the menu features fish and game dishes.
4. Freischwimmer
Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2 • (030) 61 07 43 09 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Fri, 10am–midnight Sat & Sun • €€
This restaurant and bar floats on a wooden terrace over the Flutgraben Canal. It’s a great spot for brunch.
5. Burgeramt
Krossener Str. 21–22 • (030) 66 76 34 53 • Open noon–midnight daily • €
A wide variety of burgers are available here, from beef patties cooked on a lava stone to many vegetarian options.
6. Restaurant Zenner
Alt-Treptow 14–17 • (030) 533 73 70 • Open 10am–10pm Mon–Thu & Sun, 10am–4am Fri & Sat • No credit cards • €
A classic day trip destination: once, families used to “bring and brew their own coffee”. Today it is a popular outdoor café and beer garden.
7. Krokodil
Gartenstr. 46–48 • (030) 65 88 00 94 • Open 5pm–midnight Mon–Sat, 11am–11pm Sun (brunch 11am–3pm) • €
Situated in Köpenick’s Old Town, near the river baths in Gartenstraße, this is one of the nicest garden venues, especially in summer.
8. Bräustübl
Müggelseedamm 164 • (030) 37 44 67 69 • Open 11am–midnight daily • €
This typical beer garden, belonging to the neighbouring Berliner Bürger-Brau brewery, serves game dishes.
9. Lehmofen
Freiheit 12 • (030) 655 70 44 • Open noon–midnight daily (from 10am Sun) • €
Meat and vegetarian dishes, freshly cooked in a clay oven, are the top attractions in this Anatolian restaurant with a summer terrace.
10. Leander
Jungstr. 29 • (030) 29 00 48 03 • Open Apr–Oct: from 10am daily; Nov–Mar: from 3pm Mon–Fri & from 10am Sat & Sun • €
This romantic bistro with an old-time feel offers creative and cosmopolitan food – and it is a bargain to boot.