Cool and verdant Monteverde has its fair share of interesting sights, many of which are spread out along the winding dirt road that slopes gently upward from the surprisingly bustling town of Santa Elena and into the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, with other smaller reserves tucked away off side roads.
t Dappled sunlight and La Paz waterfall pour through the dense trees and ferns of the cloud forest into a valley below.
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t The colorful male orange-bellied trogon is just one of the many species that attract birdwatchers to this protected area.
Known worldwide for its unique cloud forest reserve, which helped promote Costa Rica’s reputation for ecotourism, Monteverde boasts a pastoral alpine setting at an elevation of 4,600 ft (1,400 m), high up in the heart of the Cordillera de Tilarán. To the northwest is Santa Elena, which is the main commercial center. Several other reserves, incorporated within the Zona Protectora Arenal-Monteverde, are to be found in the area. Monteverde’s fame has spawned all manner of “green” initiatives, including a variety of tours that permit visitors a monkey’s-eye view of the forest canopy, which remains pristine, even in the face of these ever-increasing services and attractions. Walking is a pleasure, but heavily trafficked roads can be muddy or dusty, depending on the weather. Hotels and restaurants line the steeper dirt road to Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, with key attractions along the route, such as the Bat Jungle and Sky Walk/Sky Trek.
GREAT VIEW
Viewing Portal
As you head up the Sendero Bosque Nuboso (Cloud Forest Trail), look out for La Ventana (the Window). Aptly named, it opens onto stunning views of the Continental Divide, where the slopes of the Atlantic and Pacific converge.
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Exploring Monteverde and Santa Elena
t A hiker sizing up some of the ancient growth in the Monteverde cloud forest
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n Double-tap image to read the labels
The dirt road that winds uphill from Santa Elena ends at this 40-sq-mile (105-sq-km) jewel in the crown of the vast Arenal-Monteverde Protection Zone, which is owned and operated by the Tropical Science Center of Costa Rica. It straddles the Continental Divide and has six distinct ecological zones. The high forests are smothered by near-constant mists fed by the Atlantic trade winds, and on exposed ridges, trees are stunted by those same winds.
Wildlife, though elusive, is plentiful: here there are over 150 species of amphibians and reptiles; over 500 species of butterflies; and more than 100 mammals, including jaguars, jaguarundis, pumas, margays, and ocelots. The quetzals, hummingbirds, and endangered three-wattled bellbirds are among the more than 400 bird species. There are 75 miles (120 km) of trails, and a booklet details the most popular routes, which have wooden boardwalks. More challenging trails extend down the Caribbean slopes to the lowlands; these involve a full day’s hike, with mud oozing underfoot. Rubber boots can be rented.
t A shy jaguar prowling one of the remote areas of Monteverde’s reserves
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The Golden Toad
In 1964 a tiny new species of toad was found in Monteverde’s cloud forest, inhabiting an area of just 8 sq km (3 sq miles). The bright orange creature was named sapo dorado (golden toad), for the colour of the male. It is now considered extinct.
Did You Know?
Bosque Nuboso Monteverde houses 2.5 percent of worldwide biodiversity.
Funded and run by the local community, this 2-sq-mile (5-sq-km) reserve and educational centre is higher and cloudier than the more famous Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. Spider and howler monkeys, trogons, quetzals, and agoutis are often seen. More scarce are tapirs, jaguars, and pumas. There are great views of Volcán Arenal too.
With educational exhibits as well as a large butterfly enclosure housing 40 species, this nature center is an ideal place to learn about the life cycle of the butterfly. It also has stick insects, tarantulas, giant rhinoceros beetles, and 5-in- (13-cm-) long caterpillars. Visitors can also view leaf-cutter ants in their nest.
Visitors can come face-to-face with about 28 species of frogs and other amphibians, as well as snakes, lizards, and salamanders. Several of Costa Rica’s most intriguing species can be seen, including poison-dart frogs, transparent frogs, endearing red-eyed tree frogs, and marine toads. Visit in the evening for best viewing.
More than 20 species of snakes are on display here, as well as an array of other reptiles and amphibians turtles, frogs, iguanas, and chameleons.
Bat Jungle
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⌂ 2 miles (3 km) S of Santa Elena # 9am–5pm daily ∑ batjungle.com
Costa Rica is home to 109 species of bats (Monteverde alone has 65 of them), and you can learn all about these fascinating creatures here.
There’s a glass-walled flyway that is a habitat for eight bat species, documentary films are shown, and you can don giant ears to experience an idea of the bat’s phenomenal acoustic abilities.
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Stay Monteverde Lodge Stay in the heart of Monteverde’s cloud forest at this eco-aware lodge, with epic jungle views. Tours with one of the lodge’s own local guides are a must. ⌂ Santa Elena ∑ www.monteverdelodge.com \ |
More than 500 local species line a winding trail here. Use a magnifying glass to see the tiniest ones up close.
Founded by Quaker settlers in 1953, this cheese factory now produces more than 2,200 lb (1,000 kg) of pasteurized cheese a day. The more than 20 types include Gouda, parmesan, and the bestselling Monte Rico. A video relates company history, and there’s a cheese and ice cream shop.
t Soaring above the Nuboso Santa Elena reserve with SkyTrek
With high walkways, ziplines, and suspension bridges, this project on the edge of the Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena offers a variety of ways to explore the cloud forest. The two-hour SkyTrek takes securely harnessed visitors between treetop platforms on a mile (1.6 km) of ziplines. Two observatory towers offer panoramic views. The more sedate Sky Walk, with 3,300 ft (1,000 m) of meandering aerial pathways and bridges, is just as good for seeing wildlife.
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Cloud Forests of Costa Rica
Named for the ephemeral mists that always envelop them, Costa Rica’s cloud forests are typically found at elevations above 3,500 ft (1,050 m). More properly called montane tropical rainforests, they are extraordinarily biodiverse.
t Rolling mists lying in a blanket across the top of the cloud forest
t Dripping umbrella mushrooms clinging to a moss-covered tree trunk
Cloud forests produce an astounding array of flora. On wind-swept, exposed ridges, trees and shrubs grow close to the ground as a form of protection, forming elfin forest with a primeval quality. In these dense forests, epiphytic plants such as orchids and bromeliads cling to sodden branches, which also drip with lichen, fungi, mosses, and liverworts. The lush canopies rarely reach 100 ft (30 m), although massive trees occasionally break through.
Fauna is equally abundant, with herds of chattering peccaries and tayras, which belong to the same family as otters. The mists and thick foliage often prevent sightings, but the telltale yodel of prong-billed barbets and booming packs of howler monkeys are frequently heard.
t A male mantled howler monkey, mid-call, high up in the canopy
Insider Tip
What to Wear
Cloud forests are cooler than at lower elevations. Wear layers and lightweight long pants when hiking. It’s also a good idea to carry a poncho or raincoat and pack an inexpensive backpack cover, in case of a downpour.