Eat and Drink
Lombardy
14. San Martino della Battaglia
Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
2. Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso
10. Museo dell’Arte della Tornitura del Legno
11. Santuario della Madonna del Sasso
12. Calderara Collection of Contemporary Art
Liguria
2. Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola
4. Museo di Archeologia Ligure
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Milan: The Duomo
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family Treat: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
Luini (Via San Radegonda 16, 20121; 0286461917; www.luini.it; closed Sun & Mon pm and Aug) serves hot mozzarella and tomato pastries to take away, perhaps to the benches in nearby Piazza San Fedele.
Snacks
Colonne di San Lorenzo (a 15-minute walk down Corso Torino) is a fun area to enjoy an aperitivo. Bars spill onto the streets, there are nibbles, skateboarders to watch and a playground around the corner in Parco della Vetra.
Real meal
Anema e Cozze (Via Casale 7, 20145; 028375459; www.anemaecozze.com) is great for fresh seafood, salads and pizzas. On summer evenings head to the Navigli (canal) district, for a meal at this restaurant amid buzzing streets.
Family treat
Rinascente department store (Piazza Duomo 12;, 20121 www.rinascente.it) has a good food hall on the top floor with something for everyone, from sushi and designer sandwiches to a three-course meal. There is also an excellent food market, selling fine wines, preserves and olive oils.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Leonardo da Vinci’s
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Shockolat (Via Boccaccio 9, 20123; 0248100597; www.shockolat.it) serves to-die-for hot chocolate and ice cream.
Real meal
Acero Rosso (Piazza Virgilio 3, 20123; 024690288; closed Sun) for pizzas and antipasti.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Triennale Design Museum
Eat and Drink
Snacks
The Triennale Design Café (02875441) is a stylish café and snack bar inside the museum. There is a hip aperitivo bar outside in summer that adults will be sure to enjoy.
Real meal
Osteria Opera Prima (Via P. Lomazzo 25, 20154; www.osteriaoperaprima.it; closed Sun eve) has a welcoming decor and serves Mediterranean cuisine. A children’s menu is available on Friday and Saturday evenings for €8.50.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Castello Sforzesco
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Bar Bianco (Viale Ibsen 4, 20121; 0286992026; www.bar-bianco.com) and six café kiosks dotted around the Parco Sempione offer refreshments alfresco.
Family treat
Da Claudio (Via Cusani 1; 0286975741; www.pescheriadaclaudio.it), top-class fishmongers, serve fresh fish carpaccio and seafood with a glass of prosecco. Eat sitting up at bar stools around the shop counters.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Bergamo
Eat and Drink
Picnic
Il Fornaio (3 Via Colleoni, Città Alta, 24129) serves delicious pizza al taglio.
Real meal
Cooperativa Città Alta (Vicolo Sant’Agata 19, off Via Colleoni, Città Alta, 24129; 035218568) offers pasta, polenta and salami.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Certosa di Pavia
Eat and Drink
Snacks
The bar outside has sandwiches and drinks.
Family treat
Locanda Vecchia Pavia al Muline (Via al Monumento 5, 27012; 0382925894; www.vecchiapaviaalmulino.it) is a smart restaurant with a Michelin star.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Villa Panza, Varese
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Pasticceria Ghezzi (Corso Matteotti 36, 21100) is a historic café in the pedestrian lanes of the centre serving delicious pastries such as Dolce Varese, a local speciality made with maize flour.
Family treat
Ristorante Luce (Villa Panza; 033242199) is the Villa’s own sophisticated restaurant serving set menus. The weekday lunch bistro is more family-friendly.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Lake Como
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treats: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
Most lakeside villages boast a weekly market (tourist offices have details of days, with the same stalls popping up in different locations). Put together a wonderful picnic from the fresh produce and hot snacks available, then head for a shady bench by the water to enjoy it.
Snacks
Castiglioni Gastronomia (Via Cantù 9, 22100 Como; 031263388; www.castiglionistore.com; closed Sun) is a family-run delicatessen in the pedestrian centre of Como, where you can buy snacks to take away or sit in the pretty internal courtyard to enjoy midweek lunchtime specials.
Real meal
Il Ristorante di Paolo (Largo Cavour 5, 22017 Menaggio; 034432133; closed Tue) offers gourmet cooking at trattoria prices in a relaxed dining room with outside tables on the traffic-free lakeside square. Simple children’s dishes are no problem for the friendly staff. Excellent wine list too.
Family treat
La Pergola (Piazza del Porto 4, Pescallo, 22021 Bellagio; 031950263; www.lapergolabellagio.it; closed Tue) is a romantic waterside restaurant in the fishing hamlet of Pescallo. It is a great spot for tasty local specialities, and has lovely views, but parents need to be attentive, because of the tables’ proximity to the water.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Varenna
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Il Ristoro del Castello (Via al Castello, 23828; 03332935667) serves local specialities.
Real meal
Albergo del Sole (Piazza San Giorgio 17; 0341815218; www.solevarenna.altervista.org) has a wood-fired pizza oven.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Sacro Monte di Ossuccio
Eat and Drink
Picnic
Ellemarket (Via Statale 19, 22010 Ossuccio; 034456736) is a small, basic supermarket on the main lakeside road with supplies for a picnic. Head to the Sacro Monte or the waterside for a great view.
Family treat
Locanda dell’Isola Comacina (Isola Comacina, 22010 Ossuccio; 034456755; open Mar–Oct), the legendary island restaurant, serves a set menu that ends with an atmospheric fire ritual. The island is reached by boat from Sala Comacina (www.boatservices.it).
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Como
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Le Colonne (Piazza Mazzini 12, 22015; 031264859; www.albergodelduca.it) is a friendly family-run restaurant on a pretty central square, serving tasty pasta, pizza and local specialities.
Family treat
Osteria del Gallo (Via Vitani 16, 22100; 031272591) is a good spot for an aperitivo with nibbles and snacks.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Mantua
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
Sma (Via Giustiziati 15, 46100; 0376321244) is a well-stocked supermarket. Head to the lakeside to enjoy your picnic put together from the Sma.
Snacks
La Masseria (Piazza Broletto 7, 46100; 0376365303; closed Thu) serves wood-oven baked pizzas and offers kids’ portions.
Real meal
Trattoria Due Cavallini (Via Salnitro 5, 46100; 0376322084; closed Tue, end Jul–end Aug, first ten days Feb) dishes up Mantuan specialities including delicious tortelli di zucca (pumpkin-stuffed pasta).
Family treat
Osteria la Porta Accanto (Vicolo Bonacolsi 4, 46100; 0376366751; www.laportaccanto.it; closed Sun eve & Mon) serves tasty dishes inspired by local traditions. It is run by the son of the owners of Aquila Nigra (www.aquilanigra.it), a Mantuan culinary institution in a frescoed old palace next door.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Valeggio sul Mincio
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Bar Renzo Martini (Piazza Carlo Alberto 40, 37067) serves both cakes and ice cream.
Real meal
San Marco (Via Raffaello Sanzio 10, 37067; 0457950018; closed Mon, Tue & Jan) serves the local pasta dish, and is in a lovely location by the river.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
San Martino della Battaglia
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Osteria alla Torre (Via Torre 1, 25015; 0309108261; www.osteriaallatorre.it; closed Thu) serves pasta and good mixed grills.
Family Treat
Cascina Capuzza (Località Selva Capuzza, 25015; 0309910279; closed Mon–Wed except Jan, Jul & Aug) serves tasty local dishes.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Santuario delle Grazie
Eat and Drink
Picnic
Bring a picnic from Mantua or put one together from the counter at the bar at Via del Santuario 1. Eat by the river behind the church.
< Eat and Drink: Lombardy
Cremona
Eat and Drink
Snacks
La Piadineria (Via Platina 20, 26100; closed Mon) is a good place to try a tasty piadina (flat-bread sandwich).
Real meal
Pizzeria Ristorante Duomo (Via Gonfalonieri 13, 26100; 037235242) has pavement tables outside the cathedral, a lovely location for an alfresco lunch or dinner with four different menus to choose from.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Aosta
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
La Bottega degli Antichi Sapori (Via Porta Praetoria 63; 0165239666) sells lots of goodies; the local cheeses are especially tasty. Then buy fragrant bread made with stone-ground organic flour at Biopanetteria (Via Gilles de Chevrères 21, 11100; 0165216101; www.biopanetteria.it).
Snacks
Bar Roncas (Piazza Roncas 9; 0165262281; open 7:30am–9pm) has outdoor tables and all kinds of sandwiches, but also salads, platters of hams and salami, desserts and ice cream.
Real meal
Trattoria degli Artisti (Via Maillet 5–7; 016540960; closed Sun and Mon) serves vegetable flans, cheese fondue, polenta, braised meats, fruit tarts and good local and Piedmontese wines, with outdoor seating.
Family treat
Hotel La Madonnina del Gran Paradiso (7 Rue Lay de Tré, 11012 Cogne; 016574078; www.lamadonnina.com), 27 km/17 miles from Aosta, has a restaurant serving both traditional and innovative cuisine. There is outdoor seating and a playroom for kids and, for those tempted to stay, the comfortable hotel has an annexe with a spa.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Les Pertzes (Via Grappein 93, 11012 Cogne; 0165749227; closed Tue–Wed, Nov & Jun) does light meals.
Family treat
Lou Tchappé (11012 Lillaz; 016574379; closed Mon except Jul & Aug) cooks local soça (meat, potatoes, cabbage and fontina cheese).
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Courmayeur
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Baita Ermitage (Ermitage, 11013; 0165844351; closed Wed, Nov & Jun) has involtini of ham and melted cheese.
Family treat
Le Vieux Pommier (Piazzale Monte Bianco 25, 11013; 0165842281; closed Mon), serves soup and game.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Forte di Bard
Eat and Drink
Snacks
The Forte di Bard cafeteria has a good range of snacks and light meals.
Real meal
L’Arcadien, in Champagnolaz near Arnad (0125966928; closed Mon and Thu) serves local dishes, including soups, cheeses and meats.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Turin
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (for a family of four)
Picnic
Buy provisions at one of the 60 street markets and head for the Parco del Valentino down by the river, or indulge in cheese, ham, salami and prepared dishes at the historic Steffanone Deli near Piazza San Carlo (Via Maria Vittoria 2, 10123).
Snacks
Le Fanfaron (Via Piave 5/d, 10122; www.fanfaron.it; open Mon–Sat) is great for traditional Piedmontese snacks such as raclette (melted cheese served on grilled vegetables).
Real meal
Dausin (Via Goito 9, 10121; 0116693933; closed Sat lunch and Sun) has a pleasantly informal ambience and cuisine based on locally grown ingredients.
Family treat
Il Consorzio (Via Monte di Pietà 23, 10121; 0112767661; closed Sat lunch and Sun) does a fresh take on Piedmontese cuisine, such as tripe ravioli on a bed of beans with glazed onions.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Parco Arte Vivente (PAV)
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Pasticceria Beatrice (Corso Bramante 61, 10134; 0116963208), has pastries and sandwiches.
Real meal
La Mela Stregata (Piazza Carducci 122, 10134; 0116598445), opposite Pasticceria Beatrice, has more substantial meals, while Pizzeria La Stadera (Corso Dante 85, 10134; 0116698690; closed Mon & Aug) serves up pizza and pasta.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Castello di Rivoli
Eat and Drink
Real meal
La Grotta degli Elfi (Corso Allamano 115, 10098; 0119508566, www.lagrottadeglielfi.it; closed Mon) serves simple pasta.
Family treat
Combal.Zero (011956225; www.combal.org; closed Sun and Mon) is an experimental restaurant inside the Castello di Rivoli museum, with two Michelin stars.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
La Venaria Reale
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Passami il Sale (Via Andrea Mensa 37a, 10078; 0114598387; www.passamiilsale.it; closed Mon–Thu lunch and Tue eve) has simple, well-made local cuisine.
Family treat
Scacco Matto, (Via Tessarin 8, 10078; 011497769; booking essential; closed Mon) serves good pizza or a choice of fixed menus.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Lake Orta
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
Il Buongustaio (Piazza Ragazzoni 8/10, 28016 Orta San Giulio) stocks local delicacies such as mortadella ortese, a cured sausage meat found only in this region.
Snacks
Il Pozzo (Via Panoramica 16, 28016 Orta San Giulio; 0322 90150; closed Thu, end-Nov & early-Dec) sells a wide range of sandwiches, tarts and pizza.
Real meal
L’Ustaria Cà dal Rat (Via Novara 66, 28016 Orta San Giulio; 0322905120; www.lustaria.it; closed Wed except Jun–Aug), serves excellent sautéed rabbit and gnocchi with duck and thyme sauce.
Family treat
Ristorante Al Sorriso (Via Roma 18, 28010 Soriso; 8km south of Orta San Giulio; 0322983228; www.alsorriso.com; closed Mon–Tue & Jan) is renowned for its Michelin-starred seasonal menus using locally sourced ingredients like wild mushrooms and tagliatelle with chives and fresh fish.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Museo dell’Arte della Tornitura del Legno
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Il Vecchio Forno (Via Gaetano Fara 3, 28028; 0323 89444) offers pizza, vegetarian dishes and local meats.
Family treat
Birrificio di Pettenasco (Corso Roma, 28028; 032389666; May-Oct open eves Wed–Sun, Nov–Apr Fri–Sun) is a micro-brewery and restaurant set in an old foundry. Service is swift and dishes such as pork shin cooked in beer are on the menu.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Santuario della Madonna del Sasso
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Gelateria Antica Torre (Via Lungo Lago 8, 28028 Pella) offers fantastic ice cream and sweet and savoury crepes.
Family treat
Locanda da Venanzio (Lungolago 6 Brigatta Nello 34, 28017 San Maurizio d’Opaglio; 0322094075; www.davenanzio.it) has a stunning view of Lake Orta and serves tantalizing home-made pasta as well as delectable desserts.
< Eat and Drink: Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte
Calderara Collection of Contemporary Art
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Vecchio Circolo il Fierobecco (Via Carlo Porta 4, 28010; 0322998098; open Wed–Sun) is located where the tracks up Monte Mesma begin, and serves delicious fish dishes.
Real meal
Ristorante Sant’ Antonio at Miasino (Regione Tortirogno 4, 28010; 0322911963; closed Mon & Tue) is in a lovely lakeside setting and serves pizza and fried fish. It is very popular, so book a table in advance.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Genoa: The Aquarium
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (based on a family of four)
Picnic
Friggitoria Carega (Via di Sottoripa 113/r, 16124; closed Sun & Mon), which serves classic Genoese finger food such as farinata (a baked chickpea-flour pancake), savoury tarts and fried seafood. Across the road there are benches to sit on in the old port area.
Snacks
Le Vele, right below the Aquarium (open 8:30am–6:30pm), makes sandwiches and pizza.
Real meal
I Tre Merli (Calata Cattaneo 17, 16128; 0102464416; www.itremerli.it), just down the road from the Aquarium, offers food ranging from farinata and cheese focaccia to salads, pasta and fish. Outdoor tables overlooking the water are available in fine weather.
Family treat
Le Cantine Squarciafico (Piazza Invrea 3/r, 16123; 0102470823; www.squarciaficolecantine.com), near Genoa’s cathedral, has an elegant interior dating back to the 16th century, and an interesting new take on Genoese classics such as pesto and salt cod. The menu is strong on both fish and meat and there is an excellent wine list.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola
Eat and Drink
Snacks
I Due Truogoli (Piazza dei Truogoli di Santa Brigida 15–17, 16123; 0102462198; closed Sun; booking advised) is a good place for a quick lunch of dishes such as rice salad or frittata (a thick omelette similar to a Spanish tortilla), or a more relaxed dinner.
Real meal
La Funicolare (Corso Magenta, 29, 16122; 0102513286; open eves only, from 5pm; booking advised) is pleasantly informal and serves pizza and farinata (a baked chickpea-flour pancake), especially good in spring with artichokes.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Museo Navale di Pegli
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Antica Via Venti (Via Martiri della Libertà 63/r, 16156; 010664665; www.anticaviaventi.it; closed Sun eve & Mon) offers a good choice of classic dishes, with a nice outside area.
Real meal
Ristorante La Vetta (Viale Modugno 62, 16156; 0106970066; closed Mon) is great for pizza or classic seafood dishes with a view.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Museo di Archeologia Ligure
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Trattoria da Nanni (Via Zaccaria Benedetto 12/r, 16155; 0106975012; www.trattoriadananni.it; closed Tue) has seafood lasagne, grilled fish and great views.
Family treat
La Rose en Table (Lungomare di Pegli 79/r, 16155; 0104074156; open eves, also lunch Sun; closed Mon) offers a new take on fish.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Cinque Terre
Eat and Drink
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: €80 or more (for a family of four)
Picnic
It is a great idea to take a picnic when going out walking, since the trails can be quite long. Stock up on the three Fs, focaccia (flat, salty bread, often containing cheese), farinata (a pancake made with chickpea flour) and fresh fruit, in any town, and always take water. A drop of fresh Pigato, a local white wine, might also be welcome.
Snacks
Il Pirata delle 5 Terre (Via Gavino 36/38, 19018 Vernazza; 0187812047; www.ilpiratarooms.com; closed Sat), which overlooks the small port of Vernazza, is known for its fresh sandwiches, pastries and other delicious savouries.
Real meal
Ristorante Gli Ulivi (Via N.S. della Salute 114, 19017 Volastra; 0187760 020; open all day) serves up well-presented, tasty snacks as well as full meals that often include excellent, home-made pesto – the area’s greatest gift to gastronomy.
Family treat
Ristorante Ripa Del Sole (Via De Gasperi 282, 19017 Riomaggiore; 0187920 143; closed Mon & Jan–mid-Feb), overlooking the rooftops of Riomaggiore and the bay, specializes in local classics, such as stuffed anchovies and pasta with pesto. The quality of the ingredients used here is excellent, and the wine list is great. This is a popular place, so booking ahead is advisable.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Sestri Levante
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Trattoria Angiolina (Via Rimembranza 49, 16039; 018541198; closed Oct–Apr Tue) serves spaghetti with clams, and zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and prawns.
Family treat
Cantine Cattaneo (Via Vicinale della Madonnetta 1, 16039; 0185487431; dinner only, closed Mon) serves great antipasti.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Rapallo
Eat and Drink
Real meal
Trattoria Genovese (Corso Roma 19, 16035; 018561111; closed Tue) has fresh pasta and seafood.
Family treat
Osteria Vecchio Mulino (Via Bana 144, 16035; 0185773883; closed Tue & Mon, Wed, Thu lunch) serves up hearty dishes.
< Eat and Drink: Liguria
Camogli
Eat and Drink
Snacks
Ristorante Bar Da Nicco (Viale Molfino 7, 16032; 0185770128; closed Tue, mid-Jan–early Feb) makes classic Ligurian dishes such as pansoti (stuffed pasta) with nut sauce.
Real meal
La Bossa di Mario (Via della Repubblica 124, 16032; 0185772505; from 6pm; closed Wed) serves a range of dishes such as baked salt cod.