By plane
As well as the Italian national airline, Alitalia, many European carriers (including British Airways, KLM and Lufthansa) fly to Italy via their country capitals. The country is also served by North American airlines (such as American Airlines, Air Canada and Delta) and Asia-Pacific companies (among them Malaysia Airlines, Qantas and Thai Airways). Intercontinental flights arrive at Rome Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci) and Milan Malpensa airports, but for travellers from Europe there are dozens of smaller airports dotted across the country, from Bergamo to Brindisi. These are usually served by “no-frills” airlines (notably easyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair).
Fares vary according to season and for most of Italy, peak season stretches from Easter to mid-September. The best deals can be obtained by booking well in advance.
There is transport from all airports to the closest town, but check with your airline or on the airport website as at small airports this could be just one bus a day. Car hire companies have offices at all but the smallest airports.
Competitive “no-frills” airfares mean that for long distances within Italy or trips to the islands, you may want to consider a short internal flight. There are more flights in summer; book ahead to get the best deal.
Milano Malpensa
Milano Malpensa airport, 45 km (28 miles) northwest of Milan, is the international gateway to northern Italy. It has two terminals: Terminal 1 serves international and domestic flights and Terminal 2 is used by budget airlines and charter flights. A free bus shuttles between the two.
The airport is served by most major international airlines. There are few direct flights from North America and Asia, with many going via Frankfurt, Paris or the Gulf states. Budget airlines bmi (from Aberdeen, Belfast, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, London Heathrow and Manchester), easyJet (from London airports, Edinburgh and Rome) and FlyBe (from 13 regional UK airports) also fly into Malpensa.
The Malpensa Express train runs frequently from Terminal 1 to Milan Piazza Cadorna station (30 minutes) and less often to Stazione Centrale. The Malpensa Shuttle bus and other frequent bus services depart from Terminal 1 for Stazione Centrale (50 minutes). High-speed rail links run to Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples. All major car rental firms operate from the airport.
Malpensa is open 24 hours a day, but most shops and cafés close between 9pm and 9am. There is a playroom for children in Terminal 2, with slides, bricks and mats. Be prepared for relatively long walks from arrivals to baggage reclaim.
Milano Linate
Milano Linate airport is a small, busy airport just 7 km (4 miles) east of Milan, used mainly for short-haul international and domestic flights. It is served by Alitalia (AirOne) and major international airlines including British Airways, Delta, KLM and Iberia, and no-frills easyJet (from London Gatwick and Paris Orly).
Frequent Starfly buses connect Linate to Milan Stazione Centrale as do Milan city buses 73 and X73, and there are several car-hire desks.
There is a restaurant with a good view of take-offs and landings, as well as assorted snack bars. Lack of signage can make it tricky to find your way around, and there is limited seating at boarding gates.
Bergamo Orio al Serio
Bergamo Orio al Serio airport, 4 km (2 miles) southeast of Bergamo, is used mainly by low-cost airlines Jet2 (from Leeds) and Ryanair (from Bristol, Cork, Dublin, East Midlands, Glasgow, Liverpool, London Gatwick and Stansted), and by Alitalia (AirOne) and Lufthansa.
An Airport Bus takes passengers to the Città Alta (20 minutes), and city bus 1C shuttles from the airport to Bergamo train station (10 minutes).
The airport is 45 km (28 miles) from Milan and several bus services operate to Milan Stazione Centrale (one hour). There can be heavy traffic on the A4 motorway and the small airport gets congested, so leave plenty of time to make your flight. Car hire is reached by shuttle bus from arrivals.
On-site facilities are limited, but the airport is connected by an underground walkway with the Oriocenter shopping mall. There is a good view of the runway from the McDonald’s in the Schengen area.
Planes on the tarmac at Bergamo al Serio airport
Genova Cristoforo Colombo
Served by major carriers including Alitalia (AirOne), Air France, British Airways (from London Gatwick), Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa and Swiss, and by Ryanair (from London Stansted), Genova Cristoforo Colombo airport is just 6 km (4 miles) from Genoa’s city centre.
The Volabus runs every hour from the airport to Genoa’s three main rail stations, and the ticket includes 60 minutes of further travel on the public transport network, including the funicular railway. The I24 shuttle bus connects the airport to the Sestri Ponente district. All major car rental firms are represented at the airport, which has basic facilities, including a selection of cafés.
Torino Caselle Sandro Pertini
Turin’s small airport, 15 km (9 miles) north of the city, is served by Alitalia (AirOne) and British Airways (from London Gatwick), low-cost carriers bmi (from Edinburgh and East Midlands), Ryanair (from Dublin, East Midlands, Edinburgh and London Stansted), easyJet (from London Luton) and Thomas Cook charters (from Birmingham, Bristol, London Gatwick and Manchester).
Regular buses travel between the airport and Turin Porta Susa and Porta Nuova train stations (45 minutes). There are good facilities, with a decent selection of café-bars and restaurants and good views of the runway for kids, but the airport gets quite crowded in ski season.
Airport arrivals and departures board
International airlines
Air Canada
www.aircanada.com
Alitalia
www.alitalia.com
American Airlines
www.aa.com
British Airways
www.ba.com
Delta
www.delta.com
easyJet
www.easyjet.com
Jet2
www.jet2.com
KLM
www.klm.com
Lufthansa
www.lufthansa.com
Malaysia Airlines
www.malaysiaairlines.com
Qantas
www.qantas.com
Ryanair
www.ryanair.com
Thai Airways
www.thaiair.com
Regional airports
Bergamo Orio al Serio
035326323; www.orioaeroporto.it
Genova Cristoforo Colombo
01060151; www.airport.genova.it
Milano Linate
02232323; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it
Milano Malpensa
02232323; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it
Torino Caselle Sandro Pertini
0115676361; www.aeroportoditorino.it
Domestic airlines
Air One
www.flyairone.com
Meridiana
www.meridiana.it
Windjet
www.windjet.it
By train
Rail travel is an attractive option for families, offering ever-changing scenery as well as space to move around. Direct trains (including many sleepers) link Italy with France, Germany, Austria, Spain and Switzerland. From the UK, take Eurostar to Paris and change to a sleeper with cabins, convenient for family travel. There are also direct motorail train services from the Netherlands and Germany to northern Italy and Tuscany. All routes into northern Italy pass through Alpine scenery, although many of the journeys are scheduled through the night.
Train prices are becoming more competitive. The best deals can be found by booking through an agency or online around three months before travel (four months for Eurostar), when the tickets are first released. Conditions vary depending on the type of train and the rail company, but in general under-4s travel free (sharing a bunk or a seat) and under-12s pay around half of the adult fare. Remember that the European train network is very busy on Friday evenings, just before the Christmas holidays and at the start and end of August.
If you are intending to travel frequently and far in Italy by train it may be worth considering an Inter-rail (for European residents) or Eurail pass (non-European residents) for each member of the family, but compare prices first as Italian rail prices are economical, so individual fares may be just as cost efficient.
Italy’s rail network is an efficient way of getting around. It may be worth considering an Inter-rail or Eurail pass, but Trenitalia prices are competitive. All train tickets must be validated in the yellow machines on the platform before boarding your train; failure to do so will lead to heavy fines.
Artesia
www.raileurope.eu
Autoslaap Trein
www.autoslaaptrein.nl
Deutsche Bahn
www.dbautozug.de
Eurail
www.eurail.com
European Rail
www.europeanrail.com
Eurostar
www.eurostar.com
Eurotunnel
www.eurotunnel.com
Inter-rail
www.interrail.net
The Man in Seat 61
www.seat61.com
Raileurope
www.raileurope.co.uk
Trenitalia
www.trenitalia.it
By car
For families travelling from elsewhere in Europe, driving may be a practical option, especially if visiting a region where a car is the best means for getting around. But it is worth weighing the convenience and possible cost savings against the distance travelled and your children’s capacity to endure long road journeys. In July and August roads are likely to be clogged with traffic. Add in snacks, meals and overnight stays, and costs mount up. It may be worth investing in audiobooks and an in-car DVD player to keep kids entertained. Motorail trains are a good way to avoid some driving.
Most roads into Italy pass through the Alps by tunnel or mountain pass. The exceptions are the approach from Slovenia in the northeast (on the A4 motorway) and the route along the French Riviera that enters Italy as the A10 motorway at Ventimiglia. The most popular route from Geneva and southeast France is via the Mont Blanc tunnel and A5 motorway, entering Italy by Aosta and Turin. Another approach (from Switzerland) uses the St Bernard Pass and tunnel. The main route from Austria and southern Germany crosses the Brenner Pass and heads to Verona on the A22 motorway via Trento and the Adige valley. Most motorways are toll roads; pay with cash or credit card as you exit. The AA and Michelin both offer reliable route planners and alternative routes.
Car owners must carry their vehicle insurance policy, ideally with a statement of cover in Italian (usually provided by the insurer), plus the vehicle’s registration document and a valid driving licence. Italian law requires drivers also to carry spare bulbs, a red warning triangle and a fluorescent jacket, in the event of a breakdown. The headlights of right-hand drive cars will need to be adjusted for left-hand driving.
Roadside service stations vary, but are decent. In Italy you will find child-friendly catering, but baby-changing facilities cannot be guaranteed.
Before driving in Italy it is worth taking into account high petrol prices, parking difficulties and driving restrictions in cities. Avoid driving in cities and along the Cinque Terre Coast. A car is essential, however, for the Valle d’Aosta and the smaller lakes of the region.
Rules of the road
Drive on the right and, unless road signs indicate otherwise, give way to traffic from the right. Speed limits are 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas, 110kph (70mph) on highways and 130kph (80mph) on motorways. Dipped headlights must be used at all times outside built-up areas. Children aged 4–12 are forbidden from travelling in the front seat. Kids under 1.5 m (5 ft) must be in a child or booster seat in the back.
Roads
Most motorways (autostrade) operate toll systems. Take a ticket when you enter and pay when you leave (for cash payment follow the white signs; for payment by credit card look for the blue signs). Tolls can also be paid using a prepaid Via Card, which is widely available.
Petrol
Most petrol (benzina) stations are open from early morning until lunchtime and from around 3pm to 7pm. Outside these hours you will often find an automatic pump that takes either credit/debit cards or bank notes (less common in rural areas). Motorway petrol stations tend to be open 24 hours a day.
In towns
Driving in Italy’s towns is best avoided. Many towns and villages have restricted traffic areas (zone a traffico limitato), marked by signs with a black “ZTL” on a yellow background and controlled with cameras. The entrances to Rome’s ZTL are indicated by electronic signs: “VARCO ATTIVO” means no access; “VARCO NON ATTIVO” means all cars can enter. Milan also has a congestion charge. On-street pay-and-display parking spaces are marked with blue paint, and car parks (parcheggi) are common. Make sure you park legitimately – being a visitor will be no defence against a parking fine.
AA
www.theaa.com
Michelin
www.viamichelin.com
Autostrade per l’Italia
www.autostrade.it
Roadside assistance
800116800 (free from mobile phones)
City transport
Towns and cities all have their own forms of public transport, from clattering trams to funicular railways, lifts, buses and metro systems. The less traditional but increasingly ubiquitous open-top tourist buses are also a popular way for families to see a city’s sights without too much planning or legwork.
Carnets of tickets or day passes can prove economical if you plan to use public transport a lot. Depending where you are in the country, children under 5 or 10, or under a certain height travel free; ask before buying tickets. Public transport is good in Milan, Turin and Genoa.
Many towns have bike-share schemes accessible to visitors. The bikes are a great way for confident cyclists to get around, but helmets are not provided. Bicycle hire is more common in the north, with child seats and children’s bikes available.
Lombardy
www.trasporti.regione.lombardia.it
Liguria
www.orariotrasporti.regione.liguria.it
Piemonte
www.comune.torino.it
