Lunch (pranzo) is usually served noon–3pm, depending on where you are in the country – everything happens about an hour later in summer in the south. In resort areas a few restaurants stay open until the evening. Dinner (cena) is usually served 7pm–midnight. Most eateries close one day a week, although in popular tourist areas many open seven days in summer.

Traditionally a trattoria and an osteria offered simple, economical home-style cooking (cucina casalinga), but today the names are also used by smarter establishments to illustrate their interest in reviving traditions and sourcing quality ingredients. A ristorante was once a smart restaurant, but this has become a pretty generic term. An enoteca is a wine bar, which may also serve snacks or meals. If you are heading to a pizzeria look out for one with a forno a legna (wood-burning oven), which makes crispier and tastier pizzas than standard ovens. Anywhere with a garden or terrace will of course appeal to children – and their parents.

Italian meals traditionally have four courses, beginning with an antipasto, or starter. This is followed by the primo, or first course (pasta, risotto or soup). The secondo is the meat or fish course, with a contorno (vegetable or salad) served on a separate plate. Last course is the dolce (dessert), unless you opt for formaggi (cheeses). House wines vary, but a quarto (quarter), mezzo (half) or one-litre caraffa (carafe) will always be drinkable. For children, order acqua minerale, con or senza gas (fizzy or still mineral water), or spremuta (freshly squeezed juice).

All but the very smartest restaurants will be happy to welcome children, even late into the evening. Special requests, such as heating up baby food and asking for food to share (da dividere), will usually be catered for. However, highchairs (seggioloni) and changing facilities (fasciatoi) are uncommon outside tourist spots. Although welcome, children will be expected to sit at the table and not to run around.

Breakfast (prima colazione) in Italy usually consists of a bowl of milk, milky coffee or hot chocolate, orange juice and a choice of pastries, including croissants (cornetti) or brioches, plain or filled with jam (marmellata), custard (crema) or chocolate (cioccolato). In some hotels there is likely to be a buffet that also includes hams and cheeses. If breakfast is not included in your hotel stay, a good alternative is to eat at a local bar, an enjoyable Italian institution.

Putting together a picnic is one of the best ways to try local produce. Find a delicatessen (alimentari) to buy cheese, ham or olives; often they will put together filled rolls (panini) for you. Bakeries (il forno) usually offer focaccia and little pizzas as well as bread. Greengrocers (fruttivendolo) are packed with seasonal fruits and vegetables. Weekly markets offer stall upon stall of fresh vegetables and fruit plus local smallholders with cheese and home-cured salami. There is often also a van or two selling roast chicken, porchetta (roast pork) or arancini (deep-fried rice balls). Italian supermarkets also stock good-quality fresh produce.