Chapter 1
The Benefits and Basics of Fermenting Your Own Foods
Imagine living to be 100 years old. Now imagine living to be 100 while retaining your vitality. You’d be in good company in Okinawa, an archipelago 360 miles off the coast of Japan. There, according to the Okinawa Centenarian Study, you’ll find the world’s highest prevalence of centenarians: 740 out of a population of 1.3 million. Okinawan seniors have not only the highest life expectancy in the world, but also the highest health expectancy. They have optimal health as they age, and don’t experience as much age-related disease. Perhaps not coincidentally, these seniors consume traditionally fermented foods in the forms of miso, tofu, kimchi, and soy sauce as a regular part of their diets.
The number of studies showing the health benefits of eating a diet rich in fermented foods is growing. In particular, a 2006 study done by the Japanese Society of Allergology showed that fermented foods can lessen or reduce allergies as well as plaque in the mouth, which results in fewer cavities and healthier gums. The study also showed that many people even lose weight more easily when they include fermented foods in their diets.
When you make your own fermented foods, you will derive the greatest nutritional benefits from them. Commercially fermented products such as jarred pickles are no longer full of beneficial bacteria because they’re simply cured in vinegar. The flavor, although similar, is rarely as robust as that of a traditional, homemade version. Even foods that are fermented using traditional methods can easily lose their health benefits when they are processed using pasteurization, which kills off all the beneficial bacteria that fermentation created!
FERMENTED FOODS FOR HEALTH
Including fermented foods regularly in your diet will provide many health benefits to your digestive system. Fermented foods improve digestion by supplying probiotic bacteria and restoring balance in your digestive tract. This is where the foods you eat are digested and all the nutrients are absorbed.
Bacterial balance in the digestive system is important for many reasons. When bad bacteria overcrowd your gut, that balance gets out of whack. Foodborne illness, commonly referred to as food poisoning, is one possibility. But other problems, including headaches, diarrhea, allergies, and even disease can result. Lifestyle habits are important to good overall health and many of our regular habits can influence our digestive health. Some bad habits including consumption of unhealthy, processed foods, stress, and even insufficient sleep can throw bacterial balance into a tailspin. Including fermented foods in your diet regularly is a good habit that can re-establish a healthy bacterial balance.
Prebiotics and Probiotics
Fermentation occurs because of the work of microbes. Microbes thrive on water and food, which are plentiful in the digestive tract. The probiotic microbes eat the foods we eat, and then create byproducts that change the texture and flavor of the foods. They consume sugars and produce carbon dioxide and alcohol. This can make foods a bit fizzy and sometimes sweet, tart, or savory. As they reach the intestinal tract, they spark the growth of even more probiotic microbes.
Fermented food labels often include the words “live” or “living.” This is because the bacteria used to ferment foods are alive. In fact, the word probiotic is derived from the Greek word pro, which means “for” and bios, which means “life.” Prebiotics are the carbohydrate-rich, non-digestible food source for probiotic microbes and they also create an environment in the digestive tract that allows them to survive and even thrive. Prebiotics are health promoting in other ways including lowering LDL, blood cholesterol, and triglyceride levels. Fermented foods typically include both the probiotic microbes and prebiotics.
When we have a bacterial infection, harmful bacteria have invaded our system to make us sick. We might be prescribed antibiotics to fight the illness or infection. The problem with antibiotics, however, is that they don’t just kill the bad guys; they deplete the beneficial bacteria as well. Eating fermented foods can help boost our supply of healthful, probiotic bacteria which supports our immune system, establishes balance, and also fights off the bad guys.
Immune System Support
Our digestive tract is where all the magic happens to help us stay well. When we are fighting disease or illness, the bacterial balance in our gut is important to our immunity. In fact, the largest organ in our immune system is our gut, this is responsible for almost half of our immune response. Nearly 100 trillion bacteria populate our digestive tract. That’s a heck of a lot of cells. It’s hard to believe but because bacteria cells outweigh all other body cells, we are made up mostly of them.
When we think of neurotransmitters, we think of our brains. Indeed, our brains have plenty of them. But our gut also includes neurotransmitters and our gut actually includes as many neurotransmitters as our brain. Research shows that our gut is strongly connected to our immune system. The neurotransmitters in our gut communicate with our immune cells, activating and strengthening our immune system. For example, inflammation is thought to be connected to diseases such as arthritis, metabolic syndrome, and heart disease. The probiotic bacteria in fermented foods creates a healthful balance in our digestive tract, which can help the neurotransmitters connect with immune cells and impact healthy immunity and resistance to disease and illness.
Fermented Foods and Digestion
Keeping your digestive system healthy can help it do its job to break down foods and absorb nutrients and water. When you consume an unhealthy diet of processed foods, your digestive tract has to work hard to digest foods and absorb nutrients.
There are components of some of the foods we eat that can interfere with healthy digestion. Phylates are an example of one substance present in some foods that bind to nutrients, preventing them from being absorbed. Fermentation helps to remove substances such as phylates in foods to help your gut absorb nutrients properly.
Phylates, also known as phytic acid, store phosphorus in some of the foods we eat including seeds, nuts, legumes, and whole grains. They are concerning compounds since they bind to a portion of the iron, zinc, and calcium in foods, making these minerals unavailable for absorption.
Foods rich in phylates require some type of processing before we can even absorb nutrients from them. During certain food processes, enzymes called phytases destroy the phylates. These processes include the rising of yeast dough; the sprouting of seeds, grains, and legumes; the roasting of nuts; the presoaking of beans; the grinding of seeds; cooking; and fermentation.
When foods are fermented, they are actually partially digested. In yogurt production the probiotic bacteria digest milk sugar, or lactose, this can help people with lactose intolerance consume yogurt without digestive upset.
AN OVERVIEW OF FERMENTATION
Historically, there is evidence that fermentation has been used in cultures living in Asia, South America, and Europe. Early use of fermentation involved some trial and error, testing of various temperatures, addition of sugar or salt, and timing. This experimentation of methods was critical to not only maintaining a fresh food supply, but also creating processes that greatly helped in improving flavor and healthfulness of foods.
Fermentation involves creating a living ecosystem with several different organisms working in unison to thrive. We have a good understanding today of how this ecosystem works. Different species of bacteria are used in the process and the types of bacteria that form determine whether the outcome is successful.
The bacteria used in fermentation contain different properties, survive on different types of nutrition, and compete for the nutrients available. The fermented foods will look, feel, and taste a certain way (as is the case of Kombucha Soda) based on the properties of the bacteria. The requirements for controlled fermentation, then, are a desirable strain of microbes, the right type of organic material, and the ability to create the optimum environment for fermentation.
The Process of Fermentation
Sometimes foods are fermented by organisms in the environment. These organisms are not selected or added to the foods but occur naturally in the environment surrounding the food. The organisms include wild yeasts and other strains of bacteria found in the atmosphere. This is called uncontrolled fermentation. Sometimes this process works and is beneficial for the food and sometimes this process spoils the food. Over time, when refrigeration was not available, people learned to control this process to preserve drinks and foods.
Fungi and bacteria are two types of organisms that participate in fermentation. When fermenting alcohol, fungi are used, and bacteria in fermentation produce acids. In some cases, they are used together.
When cheese, wine, sourdough bread, and beer are fermented, fungi or yeasts are used in this process. Yeasts produce ethanol and during fermentation ethanol produces carbon dioxide (creating spaces or holes in a light, fluffy loaf of sourdough bread). Sometimes fermentation yields surprising results. In this case, producing alcohol is not the goal of using yeasts, but the alcohol nevertheless imparts a satisfying flavor.
The tangy flavor of foods can be attributed to Lactobacillus bacteria, which produces lactic acid. This type of bacteria is used in the fermentation of sausages, vegetables, and cheese. Lactobacillus is one of the most common types of bacteria used in fermentation. Acetobacter, which is another strain of bacteria that produces acetic acid, is used in wine and hard cider.
Introducing a Desirable Strain of Bacterial Growth in the Perfect Environment
Sometimes fermentation is used for making bread or pickling vegetables. The yeast that occurs in the wild and is present on foods as well as the bacteria on the foods promotes an environment for wild fermentation.
Bacteria present in cultures or starters are also used in fermentation. This process involves using probiotic bacteria to produce lactic acid (this method is used to make pickles with a tart flavor). During this process, bacteria that may promote mold and spoiling of the foods are destroyed.
Various types of bacteria are used during fermentation, and each type requires a certain type of environment. Certain strains of bacteria cannot survive when exposed to oxygen (anaerobic strains) while other types need lots of oxygen (aerobic strains). Some types prefer a very warm environment (thermophilic), others require a very cold environment (cryophilic), and still others prefer moderate temperatures (hemophilic).
The anaerobic fermentation process used to ferment some fruits, vegetables, dairy, and meat is called lacto-fermentation. This process works by inhibiting oxygen use by bacteria that typically cause rot, thereby creating an environment where good bacteria flourish. During this process, lactic acid is produced lending a distinctive flavor to the foods. This process also helps make yogurt from milk.
Some types of fermentation use salt. Salt acts to reduce the availability of water during the fermentation process. It also changes the pH or acid level of the food and creates an environment in which certain types of bacteria (such as Lactobacillus) flourish.
Other types of bacteria cause food spoilage. Some types compete with good, probiotic bacteria, thereby preventing fermentation. A successful fermentation process would include the probiotic bacteria surviving and promoting a tasty, tart yogurt or tangy sauerkraut from the cabbage, while prohibiting the bad bacteria to flourish and overwhelm the process causing spoiled sauerkraut or yogurt. Once this process is perfected, the same process can be used the next time yogurt or sauerkraut are produced for consistency in both taste and texture of the food.
FERMENTING FOODS AT HOME
You can ferment almost any food as long as you have the right combination of microbes and nourishment, as well as a few supplies and ingredients on hand. The basic ingredients for fermentation aren’t exotic or difficult to find; in fact, you probably have most of them in your kitchen right now. For help finding any supplies, cultures, or starters referenced in this book, turn to the resources for my recommendations.
Start with the Best Base
By starting with best-quality foods, you are taking the easiest first step toward ensuring a successful fermentation. And by choosing organic, you’re ensuring your foods aren’t exposed to pesticides or other harmful chemicals that could stand in the way of the fermentation process.
Fresh produce: Always use the freshest and best-quality ingredients, preferably organic. Fermentation has traditionally been used to preserve foods that are seasonally fresh. As a general rule, rinse and trim fruits and vegetables to remove stems or bruises.
Salt: The type of salt you use can make a difference in the way your ferments taste. It’s a matter of personal preference, but I do not recommend using iodized table salt since it contains iodine, dextrose (sugar), and anticaking ingredients, all of which can affect the taste and appearance of your ferments. I use only Celtic sea salt or Himalayan salt in my recipes.
Water: If your drinking water is treated with chlorine or fluoride, it is advisable to use filtered or bottled spring water for fermentation.
Dairy: Raw milk, where available, is the best option for fermentation. If raw milk is not available, however, use any milk or cream that is not ultra-pasteurized or treated with preservatives for the recipes in this book.
For the Kefir, Yogurt, and Crème Fraîche, you have the option to use nondairy milk alternatives in conjunction with a specific starter designed to culture nondairy milks. It’s important to choose brands made with no thickeners or additives.
Starters, cultures, kefir grains, and SCOBY: Some of the recipes in this book, such as Kefir and Kombucha, require starter grains and SCOBYs (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeasts). Refer to the resources.
Basic Supplies and Equipment
You can make many of these fermented foods using ingredients that you have on hand or can get easily (and cheaply) at a hardware or grocery store. We have refined the techniques of fermentation over time. There are a variety of tools used in the fermentation process—ranging from using one’s senses to judge color, flavor, or texture to more accurate tools such as thermometers, hydrometers, metering tubes, and siphons. But here’s a basic list of items that may be useful when you’re starting out:
» Measuring cups
» Measuring spoons
» Fine-mesh strainer
» Cheesecloth or cotton fabric
» Rubber bands or string
» Bowls
» Knives
» Wooden pounders or tampers
» Graters or food processor with grating blade
» Mandoline
» Cutting board
» Vegetable peeler
» Funnel
» Various-size wide-mouth glass canning jars with airtight lids
» Bottles and caps for fermented beverages
» Weights or airlocks
Controlling the Temperature
Depending on the type of fermented food you are making, you will need to create an environment that will encourage the growth of healthy bacteria. The recipes in this book are primarily done at room temperature (roughly 68°F, or 20°C). Some recipes, however, such as Yogurt, require a warmer environment, between 90° and 125°F (32° and 52°C). I will always specify when a warmer temperature is necessary.
If your home is colder than 68°F (20°C), like ours in the winter, you can set up an inexpensive warm fermentation area by using a heated seed-starting mat to raise the temperature of your ferments. The addition of a thermostat will give you even greater control. See the resources for my recommendations.