INDEX
A
A-line garments
ankle-length coat 59
ankle-length pants 58
anorak 139
appliqué 198
asymmetric garments
dress 71
skirt 90
B
back facing 55
back neck 38
back views
drawing by hand 31
using Illustrator 34
back yoke 54
bar 53
bib overall 110
biker jacket 138
binding 188
blazer 135
blouse 123
bodysuit/body 127
boiler suit 110
bolero jacket 134
bomber jacket 137
boy shorts 58
bracelet-length sleeve 56
buckle 216
bust dart 54
bustier 124
bound 213
keyhole 213
machined 212
button and loop 212
covered button 209
cuff button 55
four-hole button 209
two-hole button 209
C
cagoule 138
cap sleeve 56
cape 149
cardigan 123
catsuit 111
center back 52
center crease 53
center-back opening 52
center-back pleat 54
cheongsam 73
Chinese knot 211
coat lengths 59
coats
cape 149
cocoon 147
cutaway 148
duffle 148
duster 149
mackintosh/mac 146
morning 148
pea 147
princess/princess-line 146
swagger 147
swing 147
tail 148
tent 147
toggle 148
trench 146
band 164
Bertha 166
bow-tied 166
cascade 166
collar and band 160
collar and rever 162
convertible 161
Eton 165
grandad 164
jabot 166
mandarin 164
Nehru 164
notched 162
one-piece shirt 161
Peter Pan 165
Pierrot 167
pilgrim 167
polo 167
puritan 167
pussy bow 166
sailor 165
shawl 162
traditional 160
two-piece shirt 160
wing 164
color, texture, and patterns 46–9
combat pants 102
corset 124
costing sheets 15
crop top 122
cuff buttons 55
cuffs 54
barrel cuff with placket 180
bound 182
drawstring 183
French 181
single 180
tab 190
D
D-ring 216
bust 54
delivery packs 13
design development sheets 12
dinner jacket 135
dress and skirt lengths 57
dresses
apron 74
asymmetric 71
ball gown 75
blouson 71
cheongsam 73
Chinese 73
dropped waist/drop waist 71
empire line 70
gown 75
kaftan 75
kimono 74
pinafore 74
princess/princess line 70
shirt dress/shirtwaist 73
smock 72
trapeze 70
wrapover/wrap 72
duffle coat 148
dungarees 110
E
elbow-length sleeve 56
epaulet 193
eyelets 215
F
fashion illustration 10
female figure 10
flats 10
flight jacket 137
floor-length dress/skirt 57
floor-length pants 58
frayed edge 189
frill 190
fringe 199
frogs/frogging 212
full-length coat 59
full-length sleeve 56
G
back views 31
and outerwear 44
technical drawing by hand 26–31
technical drawing using Illustrator 32–5
godet 192
grommets 215
gusset 187
H
hanger hoop 54
rolled 188
high-waisted skirt 57
high-waisted pants 58
hipster skirt 57
hipster pants 58
hood 195
hook & loop 210
I
inseam 189
J
jackets
anorak 139
basic 55
biker 138
blazer 135
blouson 137
bodywarmer 139
bolero 134
bomber 137
cagoule 138
Chinese 135
dinner 135
flight 137
jean 137
motorcycle 138
Nehru 136
Norfolk 136
padded gilet 139
padded waistcoat 139
parka 139
quilted vest 139
safari 136
shrug 134
Spencer 134
tuxedo 135
western 137
windbreaker 138
jeans 102
jodhpurs 103
jumpsuit 110
K
kaftan 75
kilt 91
kimono 74
sleeve 177
knee-length coat 59
knee-length dress/skirt 57
L
lacing 215
lengths
coat 59
dress and skirt 57
pant 58
sleeve 56
line boards 13
line drawings 10
line sheets 13
look books 14
loop 55
M
mackintosh/mac 146
maxi coat 59
maxi dress/skirt 57
merchandising plans 17
micro mini dress/skirt 57
midi coat 59
mini dress/skirt 57
miter 188
motorcycle jacket 138
N
neck, back 38
necklines
asymmetric 157
bateau 154
boat 154
cowl 159
crew 158
drawstring 158
funnel 159
gathered 157
jewel 150
keyhole 156
off-the-shoulder 157
one shoulder 157
plunge 156
polo 158
roll 159
round 150
scoop/scooped 153
slit 156
square 155
sweetheart 156
turtle 158
U-neck 152
V-neck 151
Nehru collar 164
Nehru jacket 136
Norfolk jacket 136
O
on-the-waist skirt 57
on-the-waist pants 58
outerwear 44
overall 110
P
pant
lengths 58
waistband 37
pants
all-in-one body suit 111
basic 53
bib overall 110
bloomer 106
boiler suit 110
bootleg 102
boxer short 106
cargo pant 102
catsuit 111
clam digger 108
combat 102
coverall 110
culotte 105
dhoti 105
dungaree 110
goucho pant 107
hakama 105
harem 104
hotpant 106
jean/jeans 102
jodhpur 103
jogger 109
jumpsuit 110
knickerbocker/knicker 107
micro short 106
overall 110
oxford bag 103
palazzo pant 103
pant skirt 105
playsuit 109
riding pant 103
romper suit 109
Sabrina pant 108
sailor 104
short shorts 106
stirrup pant 111
sweat pant 109
track pant 109
unitard 111
zouave 104
parka 139
pattern 48
piping 190
placket 191
concealed 191
pleats
accordion 200
box 200
front 53
inverted 201
kick 201
knife 200
plus-size template 23
bellows 185
besom 184
cargo 185
flap 184
flap hip 53
in-a-seam 185
jetted 184
piped 184
safari 185
polo shirt 127
pom pom 199
popper 210
presentation sheets 12
press stud 210
Q
quilting 197
R
rever 55
rivet 216
rolled hem 188
rouleau 212
ruching 196
ruffle 190
S
safari jacket 136
safari pocket 185
scallop 197
seams
bound 204
channel 205
cover stitch 204
flat fell 203
French 203
lapped 205
running stitch 202
slot 205
top stitch 202
twin needle 203
shirring 197
basic 54
polo 127
short sleeve 56
shoulder yoke 54
side zips 41
skirt
basic 52
lengths 57
waistband 37
skirts
asymmetric 90
balloon 90
bubble 90
dirndl 88
gored 88
handkerchief hem 89
hobble 91
irregular hem 89
kilt 91
pareo 89
peasant 89
peg/pegged 91
puffball 90
skating 90
skort 91
tiered 89
wrap/wrapover 88
sleeve
head 54
lengths 56
placket 54
sleeveless pattern 56
sleeveless top 122
bell 175
bishop 179
butterfly 175
cap 174
cape 175
dolman 178
dropped shoulder 169
dropped 169
fitted 172
flared 175
kimono 177
kite 178
lantern 176
leg-of-mutton 179
magyar 178
one-piece 170
pagoda 176
peasant 176
puff 174
raglan 177
set-in 168
shirt 173
smocking 196
snap 210
specification sheets 14
drawing by hand 29
using Illustrator 35
Spencer jacket 134
split yoke (seam) 54
stitches
bar tack 208
blanket 207
blind 207
chain 208
cross 208
hem 207
overlocking 207
straight lockstitch 206
twin needle 206
zig zag 206
stud 215
T
tab cuff 190
tail 54
tassel 198
technical drawings 10
teenage template 23
texture 49
three-quarter-length sleeve 56
three-quarters coat 59
tie 211
toggle 211
drawstring 216
tops
ballet 126
blouse 123
blouson 125
bodysuit/body 127
bustier 124
cardigan 123
corset 124
Cossack 125
crop 122
gypsy blouse 125
halter/halterneck 124
jogging 127
kurta/kurti 126
midriff 122
peasant blouse 125
polo shirt 127
sleeveless 122
strapless 123
sweat 127
sweatshirt 127
tube top 123
vest/waistcoat 122
wrap 126
trench coat 146
trend prediction books 16
tube top 123
tuck 186
U
unitard 111
V
velcro 214
quilted 139
W
welt pocket 55
WGSN (Worth Global Syle Network) 16
windbreaker 138
working drawings 10
Y
Z
zipped fly 192
zippers 53
invisible 213
side 41
two-way 214
visible 214
FURTHER READING
Abling, Bina and Kathleen Maggio, Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing, Fairchild, 2008
Centner, Marianne, and Frances Vereker, Adobe Illustrator: A Fashion Designer’s Handbook, Blackwell, 2007
Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear, Blackwell Publishing, 4th edition, 2009
Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Blackwell Publishing, 4th edition, 2008
Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear, Blackwell Publishing, 5th edition, 2008
Armstrong, Helen Joseph, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Pearson Education, 4th edition, 2005
Bray, Natalie, Dress Pattern Designing, Blackwell Publishing, 2003
Burke, Sandra, Fashion Artist: Drawing Techniques to Portfolio Presentation, Burke Publishing, 2nd edition, 2006
Burke, Sandra, Fashion Computing—Design Techniques and CAD, Burke Publishing, 2006
Campbell, Hilary, Designing Patterns—A Fresh Approach to Pattern Cutting, Nelson Thornes, 1980
Cooklin, Gerry, Garment Technology for Fashion Designers, Blackwell, 1997
Cooklin, Gerry, Pattern Cutting for Women’s Outerwear, OM Books, 2008
Fischer, Annette, Basics Fashion Design: Construction, AVA Publishing SA, 2009
Ireland, Patrick John, New Encyclopedia Of Fashion Details, B T Batsford Ltd, 2008
Knowles, Lori A, The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Menswear, Fairchild, 2005
Knowles, Lori A, The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, And Women, Fairchild, 2005
Lazear, Susan, Adobe Illustrator for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2008
Lazear, Susan, Adobe Photoshop for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2009
McKelvey, Kathryn, Fashion Source Book, Blackwell; 2nd Edition, 2006
Peacock, John, The Complete Fashion Sourcebook: 2,000 Illustrations Charting 20th-Century Fashion, Thames & Hudson, 2005
Riegelman, Nancy, 9 Heads: A Guide to Drawing Fashion, Prentice Hall, 3rd edition, 2006
Rosen, Sylvia, Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2004
Seivewright, Simon, Basics Fashion Design: Research and Design, AVA Publishing SA, 2007
Stipelman, Steven, Illustrating Fashion: Concept To Creation, Fairchild, 2nd edition, 2005
Tallon, Kevin, Creative Computer Fashion Design with Illustrator, 2006
Travers-Spencer, Simon, and Zarida Zaman, The Fashion Designer’s Directory of Shape and Style, Barron’s Educational Series, 2008
Ward, Janet, Pattern Cutting and Making Up: The Professional Approach, 2nd edition, Butterworth-Heinemann, 1987
PHOTO CREDITS
The authors and publisher would like to thank the following institutions and individuals who provided images for use in this book. In all cases, every effort has been made to credit the copyright holders, but should there be any omissions or errors the publisher would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgment in any subsequent edition of this book.
p11 Ayako Koyama
p12 Wayne Fitzel
p13 (top) Wayne Fitzell; (bottom) Debenhams
p14 Look Book images, Patrick Lee Yow
p15 Toby Meadows
p16 Worth Global Style Network
p17 (top) Senso Group; (bottom) Ayako Koyama
p18 & 19 Vogue Patterns, courtesy of McCall, Butterick & Vogue
p20-23 Ayako Koyama
p26-31 Photography by PSC Photography Ltd.
p32-35 Tutorials by Ayako Koyama
p36-39 Ayako Koyama
p50 (left) Vanda Rulewska; (right) Patrick Lee Yow
p51 (top) Mary Ruppert; (middle) Lynn Blake; (bottom) Maritza Cantero-Farrell
All technical drawings in section two by Ayako Koyama; all muslin photography by Packshot.com
AUTHOR'S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I would like to especially thank Ayako Koyama for creating all of the technical drawings for the directory, and Anne Stafford and Ayako for creating all the beautiful muslin. Thanks to you both for your focus, dedication and patience with me! An important thank you to Eleanor Warrington for introducing me to the world of "flats" and commercial design so many years ago, in my first ever internship while still at college: that's when fashion design was demystified for me, when I came to understand commercial design, and when it all started...
Basia would also like to thank the following individuals and organizations:
Jo Lightfoot
Anne Townley
Gaynor Sermon
Melanie Mues
Patrick Lee Yow
Wayne Fitzell
Vanda Rulewska
Sarah Bailey
Melanie Cunningham
Toby Meadows
Sean Chiles
Kathryn Kujawa
Bridget Miles
Mary Ruppert-Stroescu
Lynn Blake
Maritza Cantero-Farrell
Keith Jones at McCall, Butterick & Vogue Patterns (www.butterick-vogue.co.uk)
WGSN (Worth Global Style Network)
Kane Thompson and Ann-Louise Tingelof at Senso Group, (www.Sensogroup.co.uk)