< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
The centre of Brussels is neatly contained within a clearly defined shape called the Pentagon. Nowadays this outline is formed by a busy ring road called the Petite Ceinture. The road follows the path of the old city walls, a huge 14th-century construction 9 km (6 miles) long. Few traces of the walls have survived, but one old city gate, the Porte de Hal, still stands, and gives a fair indication of just how massive the fortifications must have been. Most of historic Brussels is contained within these bounds, including both the commercial and popular districts of the Lower Town, and the aristocratic quarter of the Upper Town, which includes the Royal Palace. The result is that Brussels is a very compact city. You can walk right across the Pentagon in about half an hour. As well as monuments and cultural gems, you will find a concentration of excellent places to stay and eat, good shops, and vibrant cafés and bars.
No trip to Brussels would be complete without a visit to the Grand Place – even if it’s just to stock up on some Belgian biscuits or chocolates. A remarkable legacy of the city’s Gothic and Renaissance past, it is also a monument to the values and ingenuity of the artisans and merchants who were the architects of Brussels’ prosperity.
This is a superb, “must-see” collection, notable because it focuses almost exclusively on Flemish and Belgian art. Highlights include rare works by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, the exhilarating Rubens collection, and an unparalleled assembly of works by the Belgian Symbolists, as well as the Magritte Museum showcasing an extensive collection (For further details see Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts).
The famous “mim” collection of historical and contemporary musical instruments is housed in the remarkable Art Nouveau department store known as “Old England”. Take the children too: a visitor guidance system brings the exhibits to life by letting visitors hear what the instruments sound like when played (For further details see Musée des Instruments de Musique).
Reflecting the huge popularity of comic-strip books in Belgium – and, indeed, most of continental Europe – this unique “Belgian Centre of the Comic Strip” is a shrine to the art form. Archive material and other exhibits focus above all on Belgian contributors to the genre – most notably, of course, on Hergé, the creator of Tintin (For further details see Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée).
In Brussels you can’t avoid this cheeky little chap, famously pissing with carefree abandon just as little boys do. Among other things, he’s on postcards, T-shirts, key rings and corkscrews. So why not take a pilgrimage to see the real thing – a tiny bronze statue – and bask in the happy absurdity of it all? It must be worth a photograph (For further details see Manneken-Pis).
Brussels’ largest and finest church was built from 1226 onwards and showcases over 300 year’s worth of architectural design. Highlights inside include an enormous Baroque oak pulpit, splendid Renaissance stainedglass windows, and access to the treasury and preserved remnants of the old Romanesque church that once stood here. Dedicated to St Michael, patron saint of the city, the cathedral’s name also acknowledges St Gudule, a local 8th-century saint who outfoxed the Devil. The cathedral is often used for ceremonies of national interest, such as royal weddings and state funerals.
Brussels is a city of grand old 19th-century mansions, or maisons de maître. This museum provides a rare opportunity to see inside one. The original owner, Henri van Curtsem, commissioned Victor Horta to redesign the interior. In the hands of van Curtsem’s adoptive heir, sculptor Guillaume Charlier, the mansion became a centre for Brussels’ avant-garde. On his death in 1925, Charlier left the house to the city, and it retains much of the decor of his era. There are works by leading artists of the time, such as James Ensor, Léon Frédéric, Fernand Khnopff and Rik Wouters, plus an impressive collection of antique furniture.
Accessed via the Musée Belvue, this staggering archaeological site was once the medieval Coudenberg Palace that stood on Place Royale. The palace was the seat of residence for the Duchy of Brabant and then the Governors of the Netherlands for more than 600 years until it burned down in 1731. The highlight is the impressive Aula Magna banqueting hall, which was the scene of Charles V’s abdication in 1555.
The name Sablon refers to the sandy marshland that occupied this site until it was reclaimed in the 17th century. The Place du Grand Sablon is a centre for antiques and is home to two of Brussels’ leading chocolate makers: Wittamer and Pierre Marcolini. Look out for the statue of Tintin too. The Place du Petit Sablon park is adorned with 48 statues of the medieval guilds of Brussels. Separating the two is the Église Notre-Dame du Sablon.
Considered to be one of the prettiest churches in Belgium, this Baroque beauty belonged to a béguinage (institution for pious women) and dates from the 17th century. Note the tombstones of the béguines set in the floor.
Morning
Start off with the essentials: a stroll around the Grand Place and a trip to the Manneken-Pis, stopping for a waffle at the Dandoy shop at 14 Rue Charles Buls on the way. Now head back to the Bourse, and go west along Rue Dansaert, the street for cutting-edge fashion. Turn right at the Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains and walk up to the Église Sainte-Catherine, a church designed in 1854 by Joseph Poelaert, who was also responsible for the colossal Palais de Justice. It stands on reclaimed land at the head of a canal now covered over by the Place Sainte-Catherine. This was the site of the old fish market, and is still famous for its fish restaurants. It could be the place to stop for a spot of lunch.
Afternoon
Walk back east, stopping at the Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule before heading up the hill to Rue Royale. Take a stroll in the pleasant Park de Bruxelles, then walk south to the Palais Royal and the elegant 17th-century Place Royale, with its statue of the 11th-century crusader Godefroy de Bouillon. You’re now a stone’s throw from both the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts and the Musée des Instruments de Musique. Take your pick. After this, you’ll probably need some refreshments, so continue down the Rue de la Régence to the cafés and chocolate shops of the Sablon district.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
When it opened in 1847, this elegant shopping arcade was the grandest in Europe (For further details see Galeries Royales de Saint-Hubert).
Exquisite examples of costume and lace, an industry that employed 10,000 women in mid-19th-century Brussels (For further details see Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle).
The 445 “martyrs” killed in the Belgian Revolution of 1830 lie buried in this square.
This large, atmospheric church is like something out of a Brueghel painting – aptly so, since Pieter Brueghel the Elder is buried here.
See how the other half lived in the grand rooms of the Royal Palace. A former hotel next to the palace houses a museum devoted to the history of Belgium since 1830.
This suite of 18th-century rooms contains a small but select exhibition of furniture, porcelain, clocks and other artifacts.
A bijou cinema with a fascinating collection tracing the early history of the moving image in the foyer.
The sole surviving gate of the 14th-century city walls.
There is something gloriously megalomaniac about this vast Neo-Classical pile.
This delightful toy museum appeals to everyone.
A spectacularly elegant and spacious shopping arcade built in 1847 (For further details see Galeries Royales de Saint-Hubert).
A pedestrianized shopping street close to the city centre, with many of the main European fashion chains and a large Inno department store at the northern end.
Ignore the shoddy environs: this is the place for cutting-edge fashion. All the Antwerp designers are represented in the shops here, and there are several outlets for notable Belgian fashion labels.
Smaller than the Galeries Royales de Saint-Hubert, but just as elegant. Here you’ll find second-hand books, prints, postcards and posters.
Top-name international couturiers, including Chanel, Hermes and Christian Dior, line Avenue Louise, while Congolese clothes shops, hairdressers and jewellers can be found in the covered Galerie Louise.
This covered arcade, similar to Galerie Louise, offers a good range of stores close to the Porte de Namur.
From early December to early January, this market offers all things Christmassy – crafts, decorations, presents – in thestreets around the Bourse and on Quai aux Briques.
The Place du Jeu de Balle has a daily flea market (6am–2pm) selling antiques, junk and curios, and there is a spread of shops up Rue Blaes too
This maze-like covered arcade sells T-shirts, baseball caps, leather goods, costume jewellery and incense – all surprisingly in the lower price range.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
A famous watering-hole in the old bakers’ guildhouse. There is a medieval air to the interior decor. Also serves light meals.
Blink and you’ll miss this 17th-century tavern tucked down a side street of Rue du Marché aux Herbes. A great spot for people watching.
Not many cafés can claim to have had Marx, Rodin and Victor Hugo among their clientele, but the Vaudeville has a long history. Sit outside in the city’s most splendid arcade, or upstairs in a salon decorated with copies of the Communist Manifesto.
“Sudden Death” may sound alarming, but this famous bar, redesigned in Rococo style in 1926, is named after a card game. It is also the name of a gueuze beer.
Another classic, Le Cirio has been open since 1886 and is famous for its half-en-half – a mix of still and sparkling white wine.
Situated opposite La Bourse, Falstaff is a Brussels institution thanks to its stunning 1903 Art Nouveau design. Lively atmosphere and efficient, polite service.
An established Brussels favourite, especially popular with an avid chess-playing crowd. It was a former hang-out of Magritte.
The world-class chocolatier has seating where you can sample its heavenly products with a cup of tea or coffee.
The Musée des Instruments de Musique’s spectacular roof-top café.
This lively bar draws a young crowd with its live music on week nights and DJs at the weekend. Great atmosphere especially in summer.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
This legendary 1930s Art Deco bar – designed to evoke a cruise liner – has entertained all the jazz greats. The place picks up after midnight.
Behind the gritty industrial exterior lies the best disco in town. World-class DJs spin a mix of techno and drum’n’ bass.
A glitzy Upper Town nightclub where international funk and groove mixes with cuttingedge French rap and R&B artists.
It’s hard to miss this stylish club, which hosts world music and dance parties most Friday and Saturday nights. International DJs also play here.
Jazz and blues bar with live concerts every night: 8.30pm on weeknights; 9pm on weekends. Dinner is available either before or during the performances.
Housed in a former Anglican church, this swish nightclub/ restaurant features a sumptuous gold and crystal decor, beautiful lighting and a vast dancefloor.
Take a taxi to the city’s trendiest watering hole in a renovated hunting lodge set amid the trees of the enchanting Bois de la Cambre. Terrace in summer.
This popular club enjoys a lively central location. The music ranges from electro and house to 1980s retro and R&B. On Sundays, Le You attracts a predominantly gay crowd.
At this townhouse lounge bar you can sip your cocktail in the lounge, bedroom or bathroom!
The ambience may be Latin but the music comes in all varieties at this lively dance club. Open late Thursday and all night at weekends. Four bars, restaurant.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Brussels’ most celebrated restaurant is family run and has two Michelin stars. For a taste of the superlative, innovative French cuisine, be sure to book weeks ahead.
One of Brussels’ most prestigious fish restaurants, this quiet, refined establishment attracts a mature clientele.
A stylish restaurant housed in an ornate former bank. The French-Belgian menu offers better value at lunchtime.
Dine on first-class fish and pasta beneath a world-renowned Arne Quinze sculpture at this elegant restaurant.
Boasting two Michelin-stars, this fish restaurant offers refined dining.
A favourite with locals for three decades, this timeless wood-panelled restaurant serves top-rate fish dishes.
This sleek, sexy restaurant on the southern edge of the Pentagon serves fusion cuisine. During the day, opt for the white dining room; at night, the black room is more romantic.
A long-standing favourite with locals who consistently praise the inventive menus and romantic shabby-chic style.
Founded in 1921, Aux Armes de Bruxelles is an institution: white-linen elegance and impeccable Belgian cooking.
Dine on mussels and flambéed steaks in a room decorated with old marine murals.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
A no-frills bistro admired for its tasty Belgian classics and firstrate service.
An appealing estaminet (traditional pub) that stands by its 18th-century heritage to present a menu of fine Belgian-Bruxellois dishes.
Designed by Victor Horta in 1928, this Art Deco gem is in beautiful condition after a loving renovation. The Michelin-starred chef prepares faultless Belgian cuisine.
Treat yourself to a fancy lunch at this elegant brasserie, which receives glowing reviews. The carefully selected wine list also contributes to the restaurant’s popularity.
A jovial café serving sweet and savoury traditional Breton pancakes with mugs of Brittany cider.
Selling excellent bread with delicious fillings, as well as tempting pastries, Le Pain Quotidien (“Daily Bread”) is a huge success. This is the most central of the many city branches.
This cherished and popular restaurant refuses to change or diverge from its traditions of solid, good-value, truly Belgian cooking.
A traditional 1930s Belgian diner with accomplished waiters and an enthusiastic local clientele. The fish dishes are excellent.
A 17th-century cellar-restaurant delivering feasts of Belgian cuisine. The good food attracts appreciative locals as well as tourists.
Established in 1893, this moules-frites specialist is now an international brand.
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