< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Over the centuries, Brussels expanded beyond the old city walls, gradually absorbing neighbouring towns and villages. These outlying communes – such as Ixelles, Saint-Gilles and Anderlecht – still retain their distinctive characters. As a result, there is huge variety across Outer Brussels. An excellent public transport system makes it easy to scoot around these suburbs, and the highlights listed here are definitely worth the journey.
In 1880 King Léopold II staged a grand international fair to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of his nation. The vast exhibition halls he erected, together with their successors, now contain a cluster of major museums. By far the most spectacular is the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, a rich collection of treasures from around the world, including archaeological finds, anthropological artifacts and decorative arts. Close by are the Musée Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire (an extensive military museum) and Autoworld (a major collection of historic cars). The park also contains the extraordinary Atelier de Moulage, and the Pavillon Horta, a Neo-Classical work designed by a young Victor Horta to house an erotic sculpture by Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908).
A symphony in Art Nouveau design (For further details see Musée Horta, Brussels).
This beautifully preserved Art Deco home has excellent furniture and stained glass, as well as contemporary paintings.
Another legacy of King Léopold, the Chinese Pavilion and Japanese Tower now house porcelain, samurai armour and Art Nouveau stained glass. Nearby is the Museum of Japanese Art.
This giant model of an iron crystal was built as Belgium’s exhibit at Brussels’ 1958 Universal Exposition.
The trams of modern Brussels are the last vestiges of a transport system that has formed an integral part of the city’s character. Visitors cannot fail to be won over by this extensive collection of over 60 trams, from the horse-drawn “hippomobiles” of the 1860s to sleek expressions of 1960s modernity, all housed in an old tram depot. You can also enjoy a 20-minute ride on a historic tram to (and from) Tervuren (and the Africa Museum) or the Parc Cinquantenaire.
EU politics may seem a dry, complex issue, but a trip to the European Parliament and its visitor centre will convince you otherwise. Free audio-guided tours of the Parliament are available, while the Parlamentarium explains the past, present and future of the EU in more detail. Visitors to the Parlamentarium are provided with a multimedia handset, which guides them around the interactive displays. Meet the MEPs who shape European laws, listen to the multitude of EU languages in the Tunnel of Voices, and find out why the Parliament decamps from Brussels to Strasbourg every year.
It’s well worth the trek to this southern suburb for this small but unusually choice municipal art collection. It has a number of minor works by great masters, including Rembrandt, Delacroix and Picasso, as well as an excellent collection of posters by Toulouse-Lautrec. This is also a good place to see more work by Symbolists such as Léon Spilliaert and Léon Frédéric, and the much-cherished sculpture and Fauve-style painting of Rik Wouters.
Constantin Meunier (1831–1905) was one of the great sculptors of the late 19th century, internationally famous for his instantly recognizable bronzes of working people – especially puddleurs (forge workers). The museum occupies his former home, and contains excellent examples of his work.
This is one of the most extraordinary museums in Brussels. Antoine Wiertz (1806–65) was an artist whose self-esteem far outstripped his talent. As a young man, he was egged on by patrons, and success went to his head. This grand studio was built so he could paint works on a scale to rival Michelangelo. The grandiose canvases are interesting in themselves, but so too are the smaller works, many so macabre and moralistic they inspire wonderment and mirth.
Morning
Put on your best walking shoes, because you’re going to cover at least 5 km (3 miles) of pavement and take in half a dozen museums. You don’t have to do them all, of course, and don’t try this on a Monday, when most of the museums are closed. Start at the Schuman métro station in the heart of the European Quarter, close to the Justus Lipsius Building. If you’re feeling energetic, stride up Rue Archimède to admire the weirdest Art Nouveau building of them all – the Hôtel Saint-Cyr in Square Ambiorix. Otherwise, head into the Parc du Cinquantenaire and take your pick of the museums. To refresh yourself, go to Place Jourdan, where there are cafés and restaurants to suit all pockets.
Afternoon
Cross the Parc Léopold to visit the wacky Musée Wiertz, then walk about 1 km (1000 yd) to the delightful Musée Communal d’Ixelles. If you’ve had enough already, you could slink into the trendy Café Belga in the 1930s Flagey radio building; otherwise, push on down the Chaussée de Vleurgat to the Musée Constantin Meunier. Now you’re only 10 minutes away from the Musée Horta. From here you can get a tram home, or wander around the Art Nouveau houses in the vicinity and finish the day at the popular Belgo Belge.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
If you visit only one brewery museum, this splendid cobwebby example should be it.
This charming red-brick house where Dutch humanist Erasmus stayed in 1521 is now a museum.
Tiny béguinage now a museum showing how the béguines lived.
The largest Art Deco building ever built? Remarkable view from its copper-green dome.
Spectacular Art Nouveau mansion with a staggering staircase fresco.
See complete dinosaur skeletons.
Fabulous royal greenhouses.
Magritte’s modest abode.
Victor Horta’s first project.
Family leisure park.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
One of Brussels’ finest restaurants. Chef Jean-Pierre Bruneau has two Michelin stars.
The spectacular interior of this converted hardware store and the exciting menu make up for the gruff service.
This lively brasserie is very popular with locals for its classic Belgian dishes at reasonable prices.
A charming brasserie serving excellent mussels and oysters (in season), and steaks.
Mediterranean fare that is ideal for vegetarians.
“Happy Days”-style 1960s diner praised for its burgers and milkshakes.
A delightful restaurant in a delicately converted butcher’s shop. French-based cooking.
Trendy café that draws a young arty crowd. Small wonder, given its setting in the extraordinary 1930s Art Deco Flagey radio building. Also a thriving music venue.
A welcoming pub devoted to beer, with 450 kinds on offer.
Trendy brasserie where locals come to drink artisan beers and French red wine.
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