< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Bruges
In the middle ages, Bruges was one of Europe’s most prosperous cities. Its wealth derived from trade which brought silks, furs, Asian carpets, wine, fruits, and even exotic pets to its busy network of canals. Then in about 1500 Bruges fell from grace and slumbered for four centuries. It remained a pocket-sized medieval city, its poverty alleviated by almshouses, pious institutions, and a cottage industry supplying Europe’s thirst for lace. In the late 19th century, antiquarians recognized Bruges as a historic gem, and began a campaign of preservation and restoration. The city has been a popular tourist destination ever since. In addition to its host of hotels, restaurants and bars, Bruges has internationally famous collections of art. It is also a wonderfully walkable city, with surprising views on every corner.
Markt
Markt
The central marketplace of Bruges still retains much of its original outline and is the focal point of the city. It is the site of a market on Wednesday mornings, and a Christmas market (with an ice rink) in December. Discover what 15th-century Bruges was like at the Markt’s absorbing, multi-sensory Historium museum.
- Museum open 10am–6pm Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu
- www.historium.be
- Adm charge
Belfort
For a breathtaking view over Bruges’ medieval streets, climb the 366 steps to the top of the Belfort (belfry). The set of bells at the top include the 47 carillon bells that are rung by a mechanism installed in 1748. But they can also be played manually from a keyboard on the floor below by the town’s beiaardier (carillon player) – Bruges’ highest paid official, as the joke goes.
- Markt 7
- Open 9:30am–5pm daily (last entry 4:15pm)
- Adm charge
Burg
This intimate and fetching square – a glittering confection of historic architecture, sculpture and gilding – was the focal point of old Bruges (For further details see The Burg, Bruges).
Steenhouwersdijk and Groenerei
Groenerei
Just south of the Burg is one of the prettiest stretches of canal, where calm waters reflect the medieval bridges and skyline. Here, the Steenhouwersdijk (stonemason’s embankment) becomes the Groenerei (green canal) and is flanked by a picturesque almshouse called De Pelikaan, dated 1714 and named after the symbol of Christian charity, the pelican.
Groeningemuseum
Not only is this one of the great north European collections, with star roles played by the late medieval masters of Flemish painting, such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling; it is also refreshingly small (For further details see Two Museums of Bruges).
Béguinages
Sint-Janshospitaal and the Memlingmuseum
Hans Memling (1435–94) was one of the leading artists of Burgundian Flanders, and the St John’s Hospital ranked among his most important patrons. Visitors are advised to use the excellent audioguides available with the entry ticket. The old medieval hospital wards display a fascinating miscellany of treasures, paintings and historic medical equipment; there is also a 15th-century pharmacy. The exhibition culminates in the chapel, which contains the hospital’s priceless collection of Memling paintings (For further details see Two Museums of Bruges).
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk
The towering spire of the Church of Our Lady is another key landmark of Bruges’ skyline. It’s a strange architectural mishmash: the exterior is a good example of the rather austere style known as Scheldt Gothic, and was built over two centuries from 1220 onward. The interior is essentially Gothic, with Baroque flourishes to its statues and extravagant pulpit (1743). This is a rather surprising setting for one of the great treasures of northern Europe: Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (1504–5) – a Carrara marble statue that came here by virtue of Bruges’ close links to Renaissance Italy, and the only sculpture by Michelangelo to leave Italy during his lifetime. The church’s museum includes the beautiful gilt-brass tombs of Charles the Bold (1433–77), Duke of Burgundy, and his daughter Mary (1457–82).
- Mariastraat
- Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1:30pm–5pm Sun
- Adm charge for museum (church free)
Gruuthusemuseum
If it is hard to picture quite how life was led during Bruges’ past, this museum will do much to fill in the gaps. It presents a rich collection of everyday artifacts from the homes of the merchant classes, from kitchenware to musical instruments, furniture, textiles and weapons. The 15th-century building was once the palace of the Lords of Gruuthuse, who became wealthy through a tax on beer flavourings (gruut); as a mark of their status, the house has a gallery overlooking the choir of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk next door. The house was restored in the 19th century to exhibit the pieces that founded this collection.
- Dijver 17
- Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
- Adm charge (with Archaeological Museum)
Arentshuis
Frank Brangwyn (1867–1956) was a gifted painter, born in Bruges, the son of William Curtis Brangwyn, one of a group of British artists and architects involved in restoring the city to its Gothic glory. Frank Brangwyn donated an impressive collection of his work to the city. It is now exhibited on the upper floor of the late-18th-century Arentshuis. The ground floor is used for temporary exhibitions.
- Dijver 16
- Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
- Admission charge
Begijnhof
This beautiful enclave, home to a community of béguines from 1245 until 1928, expresses something essential about the soul of Bruges. Around the tree-shaded park are the 17th- and 18th-century whitewashed homes of the béguines. You can visit the grounds, the béguinage church and one of the houses (Begijnhuisje).
- Wijngaardstraat
- Grounds open 6:30am–6:30pm daily. Begijnhuisje open 10am–noon & 2:30–5pm Mon–Sat, 2:30–5pm Sun
- Adm charge to Begijnhuisje (grounds free)
A Day In Bruges
Morning
A day of wandering. Begin in the Burg and head south across Blinde Ezelstraat. Linger beside the canals on Steenhouwersdijk and Groenerei; walk through Huidenvettersplein to the Dijver for the prettiest views of the city. Now make your way past Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk to Mariastraat and Katelijnestraat, where you could stop for a divine hot chocolate at De Proeverie. Take Wijngaardstraat to the Begijnhof, loop around the Minnewater, and head back along Katelijnestraat. Note the almshouses that pop up in several places on this street (for instance at Nos 87–101 and 79–83). For lunch, try the Vismarkt area – Wijnbar Est, for example.
Afternoon
Now you are going to pass through the city’s medieval trading centre. From the Markt walk up Vlamingstraat. At Beursplein, there was a cluster of national “lodges” – headquarters of foreign traders – such as the Genoese Lodge (No 33). One of Bruge’s more unusual attractions is also on Vlamingstraat. The Frietmuseum is dedicated to the humble frites. Then walk up Langerei to follow the canal that eventually leads to Damme, where goods were transferred from ships to canal barges. Head back down Sint-Jakobstraat, taking a detour to ‘t Brugs Beertje, with its famed collection of beers.
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Best of the Rest
Sint-Salvatorskathedraal
It was at St Saviour’s that the Order of the Golden Fleece met in 1478.
- Steenstraat
- Open 2–5:30pm Mon, 9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon & 2–3:30pm Sat, 9–10am & 2–5pm Sun
- Free
Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan
Follow the beer-making process at this brewery, in operation since 1856.
- Walplein 26
- 050 44 42 22
- www.halvemaan.be
- Tours Apr–Oct: 11am–4pm daily (to 5pm Sat); Nov–Mar: 11am & 3pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, 11am–4pm Sun
- Adm charge
Godshuis De Vos
The almshouses (godshuizen) of Bruges are easily identified by their humble whitewashed walls, inscribed with names and dates. This delightful example dates from 1643.
- Noordstraat 2–8
Minnewater
Romantic, willow-lined lake formed by a sluice gate on the River Reie – a hectic port in medieval times.
Diamantmuseum
The history of diamonds explained.
- Katelijnestraat 43
- 050 34 20 56
- www.diamondmuseum.be
- Open 10:30am–5:30pm daily
- Closed 2nd & 3rd weeks Jan
- Adm charge
Sint-Walburgakerk
This handsome Jesuit church, built in 1619–43, is a Baroque symphony in black and white marble, with a supreme wooden pulpit.
- Sint-Maartensplein
- Easter–Sep: 8–10pm daily
- Free
Frietmuseum
A museum dedicated to the Belgian’s adored frites.
- Vlamingstraat 33
- 050 34 01 50
- www.frietmuseum.be
- Open 10am–5pm daily
- Adm charge
Choco-Story
A 15th-century taverne now devoted to educating visitors about the history and production of chocolate.
- Wijnzakstraat 2
- 050 61 22 37
- www.choco-story.be
- Open 10am–5pm daily
- Adm charge
Sint-Gilliskerk
The pretty parish church of St Giles is unusual for the barrel vault over its nave. Burial place of Hans Memling.
- Open May–Sep: 10am–noon & 2–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–noon & 2–5pm Sun
- Free
SintJakobskerk
The church of St James is Bruges’ richest parish church, containing notable paintings and tombs.
- Open Jul–Aug only: 2–5:30pm Mon–Fri & Sun, 2–4pm Sat
- Free
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Eastern Bruges: Sint-Anna
Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter Potterie
This charming little museum combines treasures, oddities and an elaborate Baroque chapel.
- Potterierei 79
- Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun
- Adm charge
Duinenbrug
Bruges’ canals were spanned by little drawbridges to allow boats to pass. This one is a reconstruction from 1976.
Museum voor Volkskunde
Occupying eight 17th-century almshouses in the east of the city, Bruges’ folk museum presents a fascinating collection of historic artifacts.
- Balstraat 43
- Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
- Adm charge
Sint-Annakerk
Elegantly refurbished after destruction by the iconoclasts, this pretty church is a tranquil place of worship enlivened by Baroque flourishes.
- Open Apr–Sep: 10am–noon & 2–5pm Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun
- Free
Guido Gezellemuseum
Rustic home of one of the best-loved poets in Dutch (and Flemish), the priest Guido Gezelle (1830–99).
- Rolweg 64
- Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun
- Adm charge
Schuttersgilde Sint-Sebastiaan
This historic archers’ guildhouse still functions as an archery club.
- Carmersstraat 174
- 050 33 16 26
- Open Apr–Sep: 10am–noon Tue–Thu, 2–5pm Sat; Oct–Mar: 2–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat
- Adm charge
Jeruzalemkerk and the Kantcentrum
A real curiosity – a 15th-century private chapel inspired by pilgrimages to Jerusalem. Next door is the Kantcentrum (Lace Centre) with a shop.
- Peperstraat 3a
- Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed Sun public hols
- Adm charge
Windmills on the Kruisvest
Two of the city’s four remaining flour windmills – Sint-Janshuismolen and Koeleweimolen – are open to the public.
- Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun (Sint-Janshuismolen: May–Aug; Koeleweimolen: Jul & Aug)
- Adm charge
Kruispoort
One of only four surviving gates of the city walls.
Muur der Doodgeschotenen
A bullet-marked wall commemorates a dozen men executed by the German army during World War I.
Steenstraat and Zuidzandstraat
The main shopping area links the Markt to ‘t Zand. Clothes, shoes, chocolates – they’re all here.
Zilverpand
This warren of arcades between Zuidzandstraat and Noordzandstraat consists mainly of clothes boutiques.
Sukerbuyc
There are chocolate shops at every turn in Bruges, but “Sugarbelly” is family-run and the cocoa treats are handmade on site.
- Katelijnestraat 5
The Bottle Shop
Bruges has two well-known breweries, De Gouden Boom and De Halve Maan. The Bottle Shop sells their beers, plus the full Belgian range.
- Wollestraat 13
Apostolientje
There are still some lacemakers in Bruges, though not the 10,000 there were in 1840. A number of lace shops line Breidelstraat between the Markt and the Burg, but this one is the most authentic.
- Balstraat 11
2be
This shop in a converted 15th-century mayor’s house stocks beers, chocolate and biscuits. The bar upstairs offers good canal views.
- Wollestraat 53
Huis Van Loocke
Bruges attracts many artists, and several excellent shops cater for their needs. This one has been run by the same family for three generations.
- Ezelstraat 17
- Closed Sun, Mon L
Pollentier-Maréchal
This fine shop sells old prints, many of them of Bruges.
- Sint-Salvatorskerkhof 8
- Closed Sun & Mon
Markets
General markets are in the Markt (Wednesday mornings) and on ‘t Zand (Saturday mornings). There is also a small but magical Christmas market in the Markt. Flea markets are held weekend afternoons on Dijver and at the Vismarkt.
Supermarkets
The major supermarkets (such as Louis Delhaize) are in the suburbs, but a few small ones, such as Profi, lie within the city.
- Langestraat 55
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Cafés, Tearooms and Bars
De Garre
A well-known old staminee (pub), hidden down an alleyway. Famous for its 11 per cent beer.
- De Garre 1 (off Breidelstraat)
Café Vlissinghe
Said to be the oldest Bruges tavern, founded 1515. Van Dyck apparently met local painters here. Serves light lunches. There’s a boules court outside.
- Blekerstraat 2
- Closed Mon & Tue
De Proeverie
This delightful little coffee shop belongs to the chocolatier opposite: hot chocolate is a speciality.
- Katelijnestraat 6
- Closed Mon
Bittersweet
Friendly, family-run café praised for its hot chocolate, waffles and tasty lunch menu.
- Sint-Amandsstraat 27
- 050 34 87 69
Wijnbar Est
A tiny, red brick house that backs onto the canal with live jazz every Sunday from 8pm. Serves snacks and an excellent selection of wines.
- Braambergstraat 7
- 050 33 38 39
- Closed Tue
De Versteende Nacht
Bruges has limited night life, but this jazz café has a welcoming crowd and good basic cooking.
- Langestraat 11
- Open evenings only, Mon–Sat
Joey’s Café
A fun café-bar with low-lit tables, comfy chairs and friendly staff. Hosts occasional free concerts.
- Zilversteeg 4 (off Zuidzandstraat) 16a
- 050 34 12 64
- Closed Sun
‘t Brugs Beertje
One of the great beer pubs, serving no fewer than 300 types of beer, including local brews Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik.
- Kemelstraat 5
- Closed Wed
The Vintage
This lively bar decorated with vintage paraphernalia is located just around the corner from the tourist information centre.
- Westmeers 13
- 050 34 30 63
De Republiek
A large time-worn bar where the young staff create a vibrant atmosphere. Good for cocktails too. DJs play sets on Friday and Saturday nights.
- Sint-Jakobstraat 35
- 050 34 02 29
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Restaurants
De Karmeliet
With three Michelin stars, this is one of Belgium’s top restaurants. Exquisite.
- Langestraat 19
- 050 33 82 59
- Closed Sun, Mon, Jan & late Jun–mid-Jul
- over €60
Patrick Devos
A restaurant cherished for chef Patrick Devos’ creative touch, in an elegant belle époque house.
- Zilverstraat 41
- 050 33 55 66
- Closed Wed D, Sat L, Sun
- over €60
Den Gouden Harynck
Housed in an attractive 17th-century house, this is one of Bruges’ finest restaurants. Book ahead.
- Groeninge 25
- 050 33 76 37
- Closed Sun, Mon & last two weeks Jul
- over €60
Den Gouden Karpel
A fine fish restaurant beside the Vismarkt (fish market), with an excellent fish-shop/traiteur next door.
- Huidenvettersplein 4
- 050 33 34 94
- Closed Mon
- €50–€60
Bistro de Schaar
This snug restaurant is renowned for its steaks grilled over an open fire and homemade desserts.
- Hooistraat 2
- 050 33 59 79
- Closed Wed
- €40–€50
Rock Fort
Pared-down modern interior in an old family house. The two young owners bring flair to the contemporary cuisine.
- Langestraat 15
- 050 33 41 13
- Closed Sat & Sun
- €50–€60
Den Dyver
Exciting, inventive two-, three- or four-course menus where each course is designed to match an accompanying beer.
- Dijver 5
- 050 33 60 69
- Closed Tue & Wed
- €50–€60
Den Amand
A small restaurant serving inventive dishes of worldwide inspiration.
- Sint-Amandsstraat 4
- 050 34 01 22
- Closed Sun, Wed D
- €40–€50
Marieke van Brugghe
Dine beneath a replica panel from the Sistine Chapel at this cosy bistro that serves good beer-soaked stews.
- Mariastraat 17
- 050 34 33 66
- Closed Thu
- €40–€50
De Stoepa
Head to this Mediterranean-style café to enjoy lunch from a good menu of tapas, salads and soups. There’s a leafy, summer terrage
- Oostmeers 124
- 050 33 04 54
- Closed Mon
- under €30
< Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Lunch Stops, Brasseries, Bistros
Bistro de Pompe
This very popular bistro serves an excellent value weekday lunch menu. On offer are hearty meals and salads.
- Kleine Sint-Amandstraat 2
- 050 61 66 18
- Closed Sun D, Mon
- €40–€50
Het Dagelijks Brood
Or “Le Pain Quotidien” in French. Part of an esteemed chain providing wholesome sandwiches on crusty bread, plus pâtisserie and other snacks.
- Philipstockstraat 21
- under €30
Pas Partout
The chefs at Pas Partout are unemployed individuals learning a new trade. They serve the cheapest steak frites in town!
- Jeruzalemstraat 1
- 050 33 62 43
- Closed Sun
- under €30
De Belegde Boterham
A minimalist “lunch boutique” specialising in open sandwiches along with soups, salads and cakes.
- Kleine Sint-Amands-straat 5
- 050 34 91 31
- Closed Sun
- under €30
Salade Folle
A deservedly popular lunch spot and tearoom serving light, mainly vegetarian dishes, including soups, salads, and home-made cakes.
- Walplein 13–14
- 050 34 94 43
- Closed Tue D, Wed
- under €30
Lotus
This lovely vegetarian café is housed in the former residence of prolific painter Jacob van Oost.
- Wapenmakersstraat 5
- Open 11:30am–2pm Mon–Sat
- €30–€40
Bean Around the World
An American-style coffee house with good coffee, milkshakes and cakes, including home-made apple pie. Free Wi-Fi.
- Genthof 5
- Closed Tue & Wed morning
- under €30
In‘t Nieuw Museum
In this old family-run tavern, the meat is cooked on an open fire (evenings) in a 17th-century fireplace. Traditional and very friendly.
- Hooistraat 42
- 050 33 12 80
- Closed Wed
- €30–€40
Gran Kaffee de Passage
A wonderful dark-wood dining room lit mainly be candles is the setting for this restaurant. Gran Kaffee is highly respected for its solid, good-value Belgian dishes.
- Dweers-straat 26
- 050 34 02 32
- under €30
Brasserie Medard
Legendary among locals for its strong sangria and €4 bowls of homemade spaghetti.
- Sint-Amandsstraat 18
- 050 34 86 84
- Closed Thu
- under €30