Braises

◁ GINGER AND SCALLION CHICKEN

Serve this take on Hainanese chicken with the broth poured over it or on the side. Make the chili sauce as soon as the chicken is cooking, to let the flavors mellow.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 6 1/2 hours (slow cooker) 2 hours (stovetop)

8 scallions, coarsely chopped

2 1/2 tablespoons (20 g) finely grated ginger

10 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

3 lb 8 oz (1.6 kg) chicken, excess fat removed

3 tablespoons (45 ml) light soy sauce

3 tablespoons (45 ml) Chinese rice wine

1 cup (9 fl oz/250 ml) chicken stock

1 1/2 tablespoons (20 g) raw sugar

3 green or long red chilies, seeds removed, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons (30 ml) lime juice

1 tablespoon (15 ml) sesame oil

steamed rice, kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) and sliced cucumber, to serve

SLOW COOKER

Coarsely chop the scallions, ginger and garlic in a food processor; spoon a quarter into the slow cooker and a quarter into the chicken cavity. (Keep the remaining chopped mixture for the chili sauce.) Put the chicken in the slow cooker and pour half the soy sauce and half the rice wine into the cavity.

Whisk the remaining soy sauce with the rice wine, stock, 2 teaspoons of the sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt and 11 cups (96 fl oz/2.75 L) of water in a bowl until the sugar dissolves. Pour into the slow cooker, then cook on low for 6 hours. Turn off the cooker and leave for 30 minutes.

For the chili sauce, add the chilies, lime juice and sesame oil to the mixture in the food processor, with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) water and salt to taste. Process until smooth.

Remove the chicken from the cooker. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Serve the chicken and broth with rice, kecap manis, sliced cucumber and the chili sauce.

ON THE STOVETOP

Coarsely chop the scallions, ginger and garlic in a food processor; spoon a quarter into a large heavy-based saucepan and a quarter into the chicken cavity. (Keep the remaining mixture for the chili sauce.) Put the chicken in the pan and pour half the soy sauce and half the rice wine into the cavity.

Whisk the remaining soy sauce with the rice wine, stock, 2 teaspoons of the sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt and 11 cups (96 fl oz/2.75 L) of water in a bowl until the sugar dissolves. Pour into the pan. Cook over very low heat for 30 minutes, then turn the chicken over, partially cover the pan with a lid and cook gently for 45 minutes (without boiling or simmering at any point). Turn the chicken over again, remove the pan from the heat, cover and set aside for 30 minutes.

For the chili sauce, add the chilies, lime juice and sesame oil to the chopped scallion mixture in the food processor, along with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of water and salt to taste. Process until smooth.

Remove the chicken from the pan, strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and bring back to a boil. Serve the chicken and broth with rice, kecap manis, sliced cucumber and the chili sauce.

◁ PORK CHEEKS BRAISED IN COCONUT WATER

In this light, nourishing Vietnamese-style braise you could easily use beef cheeks or chicken legs (with the skin removed) instead of the pork cheeks.

SERVES: 6

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 8 hours 20 minutes (slow cooker) 2 3/4 hours (stovetop)

1 tablespoon (8 g) finely grated ginger

4 red Asian shallots, thinly sliced

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

4 cups (35 fl oz/1 L) coconut water

6 star anise

2 cinnamon sticks

8 cloves

3 tablespoons (40 g) raw sugar

3 1/2 fl oz (100 ml) fish sauce

3 lb 5 oz (1.5 kg) skinless pork cheeks, trimmed

1 tablespoon (8 g) cornstarch – only needed for slow cooker

thick rice noodles, mint, Vietnamese mint and cilantro sprigs, roasted peanuts and sliced chili, to serve

Turn the slow cooker up to high. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of the braising liquid until smooth, then stir this into the slow cooker. Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, until slightly thickened. Meanwhile, tear the pork into large pieces and return to the slow cooker for 5 minutes to warm through.

Serve with noodles, herbs, peanuts and chili.

ON THE STOVETOP

Put the ginger, shallots, garlic, coconut water, star anise, cinnamon, cloves, sugar, fish sauce, pork and 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) of water in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cut out a circle of parchment paper to fit the pan and lay it directly on the surface of the liquid. Cover with a lid and cook the pork for 2 hours until tender. Lift out the meat with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Increase the heat to high and bring the braising liquid to a boil. Cook for about 30 minutes until thickened slightly, then reduce the heat to low. Tear the pork into large pieces and return to the pan for 5 minutes to warm through.

Serve with noodles, herbs, peanuts and chili.

◁ BUFFALO CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

These spicy chicken drumsticks are always popular, but you can use wings as per the original recipe, if you prefer. Serve with semolina (cooked in much the same way as polenta) and greens for a complete meal.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 5 minutes (+ at least 4 hours marinating if cooking in oven)

Cooking time: 6 hours (slow cooker) 45 minutes (oven)

8 chicken drumsticks

8 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons (45 ml) Tabasco sauce

3 tablespoons (45 ml) Mexican-style hot sauce

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) chicken stock

7 tablespoons (3 1/2 oz/100 g) butter, melted

1 tablespoon (8 g) cornstarch – only needed for slow cooker

semolina and spinach, to serve

Serve with semolina and spinach.

IN THE OVEN

In a large non-reactive bowl (or large zip-lock bag), mix together all the ingredients except the chicken. Add the chicken, then cover (or seal) and marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C). Put the chicken into a deep roasting pan, then whisk the marinade to combine and pour into the pan. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes, turning halfway through, until the chicken is cooked through.

Serve with semolina and spinach.

◁ NORTHERN CHINESE LAMB

Freshly toasted and ground spices make all the difference here. Serve this luscious and tender meat with plenty of rice and some steamed or stir-fried Chinese greens. If you like, you could use lamb leg in place of shoulder, or rub the same spice paste over a whole chicken or legs prior to slow cooking or roasting.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 10 1/4 hours (slow cooker) 4 1/4 hours (oven)

3 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns

3 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons chili flakes

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon (15 ml) malt vinegar

3 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons raw sugar

4 lb 8 oz (2 kg) lamb shoulder, on the bone, trimmed of any excess fat

1 tablespoon (15 ml) grapeseed or rice bran oil

1 onion, cut into wedges

1 green pepper, cut into large pieces

water spinach or other Chinese greens, sliced green chili and rice, to serve

Make 3 deep incisions in the lamb, cutting right through to the bone, then rub the spice paste all over, pushing it into the incisions.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and sear the lamb for 5 minutes, turning until well browned on all sides.

Layer the onion and pepper in the slow cooker, then add the lamb, along with any remaining spice paste. Cook on low for 10 hours until the lamb is tender.

Serve with greens, sliced chili and rice.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C). Heat a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Toast the Sichuan peppercorns, cumin and fennel seeds for 3 minutes until fragrant, stirring so they don’t burn. Use a mortar and pestle to grind coarsely, then transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the ground turmeric and ginger, together with the chili flakes, garlic, vinegar, salt and sugar.

Scatter the onion and pepper over the base of a large roasting pan. Make 3 deep incisions in the lamb, cutting right through to the bone, then rub the spice paste all over, pushing it into the incisions. Put the lamb into the tin and cover tightly with foil. Cook in the oven for 3 hours, then remove the foil and return to the oven for 1 hour or until the meat is falling off the bone, adding a little more water to the pan if needed.

Serve with greens, sliced chili and rice.

◁ MASTER STOCK DUCK

The master stock that is left over here can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Or store it in the freezer, where it will keep indefinitely, and use as needed. After each use, boil the stock for 10 to 15 minutes, skimming any impurities from the surface, and then strain through a fine sieve before freezing again. Looked after in this way, the flavor of your master stock will get better and better over time.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 5 minutes + 15 minutes resting

Cooking time: 6 1/4 hours (slow cooker) 1 3/4 hours (stovetop)

6 cups (52 fl oz/1.5 L) chicken stock

3/4 cup (6 fl oz/185 ml) tamari or soy sauce

3 tablespoons (45 ml) Chinese rice wine

5 1/2 oz (150 g) raw sugar

2 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

3 teaspoons Chinese five spice

3/4 inch (2 cm) piece ginger, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, bruised

5 pound (2.2 kg) duck, excess fat removed

2 tablespoons (30 ml) rice bran oil or grapeseed oil

egg noodles and choy sum or other Chinese greens, to serve

Add the duck, breast-side up. Cut out a circle of parchment paper to fit the cooker and lay it directly on the surface of the liquid. Cook on low for 6 hours until the duck is tender, turning halfway through, then remove and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.

Remove the breasts and legs from the duck. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat and sear the duck breasts and legs, skin-side down, for about 3 minutes until golden brown.

Meanwhile, skim any fat from the surface of the master stock, then strain the stock through a fine sieve lined with muslin or paper towel. Pour 4 cups (35 fl oz/1 L) of stock into a saucepan and bring to a boil.

Serve the duck and stock with egg noodles and Chinese greens.

ON THE STOVETOP

Combine the stock, tamari, rice wine, sugar, dried spices, ginger, garlic and 4 cups (35 fl oz/1 L) of water in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Add the duck, breast-side up, and bring to a simmer, then turn over. Cut out a circle of parchment paper to fit the pan and lay it directly on the surface of the liquid. Cover with a lid and reduce the heat to low. Cook the duck for 1 hour, turning halfway through, then remove and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.

Skim any fat from the surface of the master stock. Bring the stock to a boil, then simmer for 25 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve lined with muslin or paper towel, reserving 4 cups (35 fl oz/1 L) to serve.

Meanwhile, remove the breasts and legs from the duck carcass. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat and sear the duck breasts and legs, skin-side down, for about 3 minutes until golden brown.

Serve the duck and stock with egg noodles and Chinese greens.

◁ ARGENTINIAN-STYLE LEG OF LAMB WITH CHIMICHURRI

Chimichurri is the ubiquitous bowl of sauce found on every Argentinian table. Typically served as an accompaniment to grilled meats, in this recipe it is also used as a cooking marinade. You’ll need a larger slow cooker for this; if yours isn’t big enough to hold a whole leg of lamb, just use the oven instead.

SERVES: 6–8

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 10 hours (slow cooker) 3 1/2–4 hours (oven)

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) lemon juice

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) red wine vinegar

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) light red wine, such as pinot noir or grenache

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon (3 g) dried oregano

1 teaspoon chili flakes

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

2 large handfuls coarsely chopped parsley

4 scallions, coarsely chopped

4 tomatoes, halved, seeds removed, coarsely grated, skins discarded

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons raw sugar

3 red peppers, stems and seeds removed, coarsely chopped

5 pounds (2.2 kg) lamb leg, scored

6 fresh or dried bay leaves green salad and crusty bread, to serve

Put the peppers into the slow cooker and place the lamb on top. Pour the chimichurri over the lamb, rubbing it all over, then add the bay leaves. Cook on low for 10 hours until tender.

Serve with the bowl of chimichurri, a green salad and crusty bread.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C). Put the lemon juice, vinegar, red wine, garlic, oregano, chili, cumin, paprika, parsley, scallions, tomatoes, salt and pepper in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Transfer a quarter of this to a bowl and stir in the oil, then chill until ready to serve. Stir the sugar into the remaining chimichurri.

Put the lamb into a large roasting pan and pour over the chimichurri, rubbing it all over, then add the bay leaves and 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) of water. Cover tightly with foil and cook in the oven for 2 hours. Remove the foil, add the peppers and return to the oven for a further 1 1/2 to 2 hours until tender and cooked to your liking, adding a little more water if necessary.

Serve with the bowl of chimichurri, a green salad and crusty bread.

◁ MIDDLE EASTERN PULLED LAMB

You can use this tender, sweetly spiced lamb in myriad ways. Try it in salads, on pizzas or as a filling in phyllo pastry parcels.

SERVES: 8

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 8 hours (slow cooker) 3 3/4 hours (oven)

4 tablespoons (60 ml) pomegranate molasses

2 teaspoons ground cumin

3 teaspoons mixed spice

2 teaspoons salt

4 pounds (1.8 kg) boneless lamb shoulder, cut into large chunks

flatbread, mint, lemon wedges, pomegranate, cucumber and Greek-style yogurt, to serve

Serve with warm flatbread, mint, lemon wedges, pomegranate, cucumber and Greek-style yogurt.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C). In a large bowl, combine the pomegranate molasses, cumin, mixed spice and salt. Add the lamb and stir to coat. Put the lamb into a large lidded casserole and pour in 14 fl oz (400 ml) of water. Cover with the lid and cook in the oven for 3 hours. Carefully remove the lid and return to the oven for a further 45 minutes until very tender. Skim any excess fat from the surface. Using two forks, pull the lamb apart. Season to taste.

Serve with warm flatbread, mint, lemon wedges, pomegranate, cucumber and Greek-style yogurt.

◁ PORK AND PINEAPPLE TACOS

This dish originated in Central Mexico, where it is often found at street stalls. Slices of pork and chunks of pineapple are skewered and cooked on a spit over glowing coals to make something like a Mexican kebab. You should be able to find the dried chilies and small containers of chipotle chilies in adobo at specialty food shops and some supermarkets or online.

SERVES: 6

Preparation time: 15 minutes (+ at least 2 hours marinating if cooking in oven)

Cooking time: 8 hours (slow cooker) 2 1/2 hours (oven)

2 ancho or guajillo chilies, soaked in hot water until soft, stems and seeds removed

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) orange juice

2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce

3 tablespoons (45 ml) white vinegar

1 roma (plum) tomato, coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 onion, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1 cup (6 1/2 oz/180 g) coarsely chopped sweet pineapple

3 lb 5 oz (1.5 kg) boneless pork shoulder, thickly sliced

Green salsa

large handful cilantro, roots scraped and cleaned, coarsely chopped

2 jalapeño or long green chilies, seeds removed, coarsely chopped

2 scallions, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

3 tablespoons (45 ml) grapeseed oil

tortillas, seared pineapple and lime wedges, to serve

Meanwhile, for the green salsa, process all the ingredients in a food processor until finely chopped. Season to taste.

Serve the pork with tortillas, the green salsa, seared pineapple and lime wedges.

IN THE OVEN

Place all the ingredients except the pork in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Pour the marinade into a large non-reactive bowl and add the pork. Mix well, then marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C).

Transfer the pork and its marinade to a large roasting pan and cover with foil. Cook in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, then remove the foil and return to the oven for a further hour until the pork is tender. Roughly break up the pork, return it to the pan and mix well.

Meanwhile, for the green salsa, process all the ingredients in a food processor until finely chopped. Season to taste.

Serve the pork with tortillas, the green salsa, seared pineapple and lime wedges.

◁ SICILIAN ROAST BEEF WITH CAPONATA

Give a favorite roast a southern Italian twist with these quintessential Mediterranean flavors.

SERVES: 6

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 9 1/4 hours (slow cooker) 2 1/2 hours (oven)

1–2 tablespoons (15–30 ml) olive oil

3 lb 2 oz (1.5 kg) beef blade roast

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1 red onion, coarsely chopped

1 eggplant, coarsely chopped

1 red pepper, stems and seeds removed, coarsely chopped

1 can (14 ounces/400 g) chopped tomatoes

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons (30 g) capers, rinsed

3 tablespoons (30 g) coarsely chopped pitted kalamata olives

1 long red chili, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons raw sugar

2 tablespoons (30 ml) red wine vinegar

toasted slivered almonds and basil leaves, to serve

Meanwhile, add the remaining ingredients to the slow cooker, season with salt and pepper, and mix to combine. Add the beef and cook on low for 9 hours until tender and cooked to your liking. Check the seasoning.

Serve with toasted slivered almonds and basil leaves.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C).

Heat 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of oil in a heavy-based roasting pan over medium–high heat. Season the beef with salt and pepper, then sear in the oil for 6 minutes until browned. Cover tightly with foil and roast for 1 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, heat another tablespoon (15 ml) of oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Cook the celery, onion, eggplant and pepper for 5 minutes until slightly softened, then stir in the remaining ingredients. Season the caponata with salt and pepper.

Remove the foil from the pan. Add the caponata and return to the oven for a further hour until the beef is tender and cooked to your liking. Check the seasoning.

Serve with toasted slivered almonds and basil leaves.

◁ GREEK OCTOPUS

Octopus becomes meltingly tender when cooked long and slow. Warm skordalia or white bean purée would also be beautiful with this braise.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 3 1/4 hours (slow cooker) 2 3/4 hours (oven)

2 lb 4 oz (1 kg) baby octopus, cleaned

2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) light red wine

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons (45 ml) red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon (3 g) dried oregano

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

2 tomatoes, halved, coarsely grated, skins discarded

pinch raw sugar

crusty bread, sliced chili, chargrilled fennel and zucchini (courgettes), lemon wedges and chopped parsley, to serve

Serve with crusty bread, sliced chili, chargrilled fennel and zucchini, lemon wedges and chopped parsley.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 235°F/gas mark 1/2 (120°C). Put the octopus, wine and garlic into a large, flameproof casserole with a lid. Bring to a boil, then let it bubble for 8 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Add the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole with the lid and cook in the oven for 2 1/2 hours or until the octopus is tender. Check the seasoning.

Serve with crusty bread, sliced chili, chargrilled fennel and zucchini, lemon wedges and chopped parsley.

◁ CORNED BEEF WITH ROOT VEGETABLES AND SALSA VERDE

Salsa verde adds just the right amount of freshness and zing to this comforting dish of traditional corned beef and root vegetables.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 8 hours (slow cooker) 2 1/4 hours (stovetop)

2 lb 12 oz (1.2 kg) piece corned beef

2 fresh or dried bay leaves

4 cloves garlic, bruised

8 cloves

1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

8 juniper berries

8 baby pickling onions

2 turnips, cut into thin wedges

2 bunches (1 lb 10 oz/750 g) baby carrots, scrubbed, leaving 3/4 inch (2 cm) greens on top

Salsa verde

handful coarsely chopped mint leaves

handful coarsely chopped basil leaves

large handful coarsely chopped parsley leaves

1 tablespoon (9 g) finely chopped capers

1 garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons (45 ml) lemon juice

Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, process all the ingredients in a small food processor until finely chopped. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve the corned beef in chunks, along with the vegetables and dollops of salsa verde.

ON THE STOVETOP

Put the beef, bay leaves, garlic, cloves, caraway seeds, peppercorns, mustard seeds, juniper berries and onions in a large saucepan with enough water to cover – about 6–8 cups (52–70 fl oz/1.5–2 L). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and simmer for 1 3/4 hours or until the meat is tender. Add the turnips and cook for a further 10 minutes, then add the carrots and cook for a final 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, process all the ingredients in a small food processor until finely chopped. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve the corned beef in chunks, along with the vegetables and dollops of salsa verde.

◁ LEMON AND CUMIN LAMB RIBS

The slow cooking of lemons with the lamb ribs adds a lovely citrus tang. This same combination of flavors works well with lamb shoulder, helping to cut through the richness of the meat. Cook the lamb shoulder in the same way, then use two forks to pull it into large chunks.

SERVES: 4

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 8 1/4 hours (slow cooker) 3 hours (oven)

2 large onions, cut into wedges

8 cloves garlic, bruised

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon (6 g) cumin seeds, toasted

1 tablespoon (3 g) dried oregano

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

4 lb 8 oz (2 kg) lamb ribs, trimmed, halved

2 lemons, quartered

8 sprigs lemon thyme

shaved fennel salad, to serve

In a large bowl, combine the oil, cumin, oregano, salt and pepper. Add the ribs and rub to coat in the mixture.

Heat a large frying pan over medium–high heat and cook the ribs for 3 minutes each side until browned. Transfer to the slow cooker, along with the lemon quarters and thyme sprigs. Cook on low for 8 hours, turning halfway through, until tender.

Serve the lamb with shaved fennel salad.

IN THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 315°F/gas mark 2–3 (160°C).

Scatter the onions and garlic in a large roasting pan.

In a large bowl, combine the oil, cumin, oregano, salt and pepper, then add the ribs and rub to coat in the mixture. Transfer to the pan, along with the lemon quarters and thyme sprigs. Cover the pan tightly with foil and cook the lamb in the oven for 2 hours, then remove the foil and return to the oven for a further hour until tender.

Serve the lamb with shaved fennel salad.