Vasco Da Gama’s Port Natal was renamed Durban in honour of Cape Governor Benjamin D’Urban, after Zulu chief Shaka gave the land to the British in 1824. Today, it is South Africa’s principal harbour and the holiday capital of KwaZulu-Natal. Most attractions are on the Golden Mile, and central Durban also offers historic buildings, museums, theatres and exciting markets.
t The Durban skyline, with the distinctive arch of the Moses Mabhida Stadium
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The land side of this 6-km- (4-mile-) long holiday precinct is lined with hotels, while the seaward edge consists of typical seaside attractions such as amusement parks, ice-cream parlours, piers, sandy beaches and a promenade.
At the southern end, the leading Golden Mile attraction is uShaka Marine World, a massive beachfront complex that offers numerous entertainments. The Sea World aquarium has a unique phantom ship that visitors can walk through to see ragged-tooth sharks and game fish; Wet ‘n’ Wild has swimming pools, waterslides and rides; Dangerous Creatures is a snake and reptile park; and the Village Walk is an attractive open-air mall. At the northern end of the Golden Mile, behind Battery Beach, is the Moses Mabhida Stadium. Built for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, it is named after an anti-apartheid activist. As well as hosting football matches and concerts, the stadium has the SkyCar, a funicular railway car that climbs the curve to the top of the arc, and activities including the Adventure Walk up and down the 550 steps and the Big Rush Swing, a bungee-like 220-m (720 ft) swing beneath it.
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uShaka Marine World
⌂ 1 King Shaka Ave, Point # 9am–5pm daily ∑ ushakamarineworld.co.za
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Moses Mabhida Stadium
⌂ 44 Isaiah Ntshangase Rd # 9am–5pm daily ∑ mmstadium.com
t The beachfront promenade that runs along the Golden Mile
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Exploring Durban
Most of the attractions located along the beach front are within easy walking distance of the hotels. By far the most useful of Durban’s bus services is the People Mover, which has three different loops around the city and passes by every 15 minutes (5am–10pm).
The impressive Juma Masjid Mosque, with its glittering golden domes, lies across the road from the Victoria Street Market. Completed in 1927, it is the largest mosque on the African continent. Visitors are allowed inside, except at prayer times. A strict dress code is enforced, and shoes must be removed before entering the building.
Located near the Greyville Racecourse, these attractive gardens were established in 1849 as an experimental station for tropical crops. The spectacular cycad and palm collection is one of the largest of its kind in the world and includes several rare species. Other attractions include a sensory garden, a Victorian sunken garden, an orchid house and an ornamental lake. From May to August, a series of Sunday afternoon concerts is held here.
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Eat Circus Circus Beach Café Serves a global menu of freshly prepared dishes. ⌂ 1 Snell Parade ∑ circuscircus.co.za Roma Revolving Restaurant Offers 360-degree views from the 32nd floor. ⌂ John Ross House, Margret Mncadi Ave ∑ roma.co.za ¢ Sun |
t Colourful garlands for sale in the lively Victoria Street Market
Situated at the end of the N3 flyover, the Victoria Street Market is striking – each of its 11 domes was modelled on a notable building in India. In this crowded bazaar, visitors can sample the tastes and aromas of the Orient as they browse through more than 170 stalls offering spices and incense, fabrics, leather goods, brassware, ceramics and delicious street food.
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Stay Tekweni Backpackers Hostel A budget lodge set in a 19th-century mansion. ⌂ 169 9th Ave ∑ tekwenibackpackers.co.za Belaire Suites Comfortable self-catering apartments. ⌂ 15 Snell Parade ∑ belairesuites.co.za Southern Sun Elangeni & Maharani Large and luxurious beachfront high-rise. ⌂ 63 Snell Parade ∑ tsogosunhotels.com |
t South African artworks on display in Durban Art Gallery
Completed in 1910, Durban’s City Hall was modelled after that of Belfast, in Northern Ireland. On its ground floor is the free Natural Science Museum, with exhibits that vary from a display of South African wildlife to an Egyptian mummy. Most fascinating – if disturbing – are the oversized insects that are featured in the KwaNunu section. Upstairs, the pioneering Durban Art Gallery showcases a leading collection of black South African art.
Next door, the Old Court House Museum contains relics of early colonial life in what was then Natal, while the mock-Tudor Playhouse Theatre opposite offers top-class entertainment by the Playhouse Company. The neighbouring streets are lined with cafés and restaurants that offer respite from the heat and humidity.
Old Court House Museum
⌂ 77 Samora Machel St # 8:30am–4pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–12:30pm Sat ¢ Public hols ∑ durbanhistorymuseums.org.za
Durban’s former railway station was completed in 1894. The building’s most curious feature is its roof, which is designed to carry the weight of 5 m (16 ft) of snow. The London firm of architects accidentally switched the plans with those for Toronto station in Canada, whose roof caved in during the first heavy snow.
The Tourist Junction has a wide range of maps and brochures; the staff can advise on all the local sights. There are also booking offices for accommodation at the national parks (the only other offices are in Cape Town and Pretoria), and for Durban Tourism’s informative walking tours.
Lined with skyscrapers, the Victoria Embankment – also known as Margaret Mncadi Avenue – was built in 1897 as an upmarket residential area. At the eastern end is the cast-iron Da Gama Clock, erected in 1847 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Vasco Da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India.
Photographs and other memorabilia of Durban’s seafaring past is displayed in the Port Natal Maritime Museum, where the tugboats Ulundi and J R More and the minesweeper SAS Durban form part of the exhibits. The fine Durban Club, built in 1904, on the opposite side of the road, is one of the few original buildings remaining on the Victoria Embankment, while further to the west, the Royal Natal Yacht Club was founded in 1858 and is the oldest yacht club in Africa. Its restaurant is open to the public.
Port Natal Maritime Museum
⌂ Margaret Mncadi Avenue # 8:30am–4pm Mon–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun ∑ durbanhistorymuseums.org.za
Durban’s Surfing Scene
The invention of fibreglass surfboards in the 1960s caused a worldwide surge in devotees of the sport. Durban, with its warm currents, consistent waves and perfect beaches, quickly became South Africa’s surfing capital. Popular and consistent sites capable of holding sizeable swell are the Bay of Plenty, New Pier, North Beach, Wedge, Dairy and Cave Rock Bluff. For beginners, the sheltered beaches along the city’s Golden Mile are an excellent place to learn to surf.
Bordered on three sides by steep cliffs, and overlooking the north bank of the Umgeni River, 2 km (1 mile) from its mouth, the Umgeni River Bird Park enjoys a superb location. Four waterfalls cascade down the cliffs into ponds fringed by palms and lush vegetation. The four large walk-through aviaries allow visitors a face-to-face encounter with some of the 700 birds. Among the 180 resident species are rare exotic parrots, toucans, cranes, macaws and hornbills.
Educational bird shows are held every day (except Mondays) at 11am and 2pm.
This large, ornate temple of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness was designed by the Austrian architect Hannes Raudner. It is encircled by a moat and a garden laid out in the shape of a lotus flower.
The daily guided tours take in the awe-inspiring marble temple room and the inner sanctuary, and there is also a good vegetarian restaurant and take-away on the ground floor called Govinda’s.