OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
1. David Černý’s Upside-Down Horse Statue
Štěpánská 61 • 224 225440 • Open 8am–midnight daily • www.lucerna.cz
Works by Czech installation artist David Černý can be seen around the city, but this hanging statue of St Wenceslas astride an upside-down horse in the central passage of the Palác Lucerna is worth a special look and a laugh. It is a gentle parody of the pompous horse statue at the top of Wenceslas Square.
Upside-Down Horse Statue
2. Cubist Lamppost
Jungmannovo náměstí
The city of Prague was a hotbed of architectural experimentation in the 20th century, enthusiastically embracing the application of Cubist design concepts to all manner of buildings and objects, including – apparently – lampposts. The only one of its kind in the world, this street light can be found on a corner between Václavské náměstí and Jungmannovo náměstí.
Cubist Lamppost
3. Fantova Kavárna
Wilsonova 80 • 601 006680 • www.fantova-kavarna.cz
The old part of Prague’s main train station, Hlavní nádraží, is a beauti-ful building. Head upstairs from the grand concourse to admire the opulent 1909 Art Nouveau Fantova Kavárna, named after the station’s architect. The ambience and the beautiful interiors of the renovated station can be appreciated while sipping coffee at the café.
4. Karel Zeman Museum
Saský dvůr, Malá Strana • 724 341091 • Open 10am–7pm daily • www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz
This hands-on, interactive museum focuses on the work of renowned Czech film-maker Karel Zeman, who directed several noteworthy Czech fantasy films, including The Fabulous World of Jules Verne and The Fabulous Baron Munchausen.
Karel Zeman Museum
5. Krymská
Prague’s nascent hipster scene is thriving along this pleasantly dilapidated street in the district of Vršovice. There are several good cafés and bars, where modern trends and old Prague clash to fascinating effect.
6. Divoká Šárka
This expansive nature reserve offers a touch of wilderness within a short tram ride of the centre. There are rugged rock formations, deep forests and even a refreshing stream-fed swimming pool during the summer months. The hilly meadows are a great spot for kite-flying in autumn.
7. Riegrovy Sady
This sprawling park, partly designed in the style of an English garden, offers plenty of room to spread a blanket and admire views out over the Old Town with Prague Castle in the distance.
8. Grebovka
Havlíčkovy sady 2188 • Open 10am–10pm daily • www.pavilongrebovka.cz
Vinohrady was once covered by vineyards (that’s what the name means). This pleasant gazebo in a park south of Náměstí Míru is all that’s left, but it is still a wonderful place to spend a sunny afternoon sipping wine in the open air.
9. Náplavka
New Town
The Vltava’s eastern bank (see p79) south of the National Theatre has come into its own as the go-to summer venue, and offers visitors everything from music festivals to farmers’ markets.
10. Hotel International
Koulova 15 • www.internationalprague.cz
Despite spending 40 years under Communism, Prague has little architecture to show for it. This impressive Socialist-Realist palace – a 1950s gift from the Soviet Union – is a reminder. Check out the period-piece lobby decor.
Hotel International
