PRAGUE CASTLE AND HRADČANY
Founded by Prince Bořivoj in the 9th century, Prague Castle and its attendantx cathedral tower overlook the city from the long hill known as Hradčany. The surrounding town was founded in 1320, becoming home to servants’ hovels and, after the cataclysmic fire of 1541, grand palaces. Renaissance and Baroque reconstructions in the area created much of what visitors see today. The Loreta shrine to the Virgin Mary demonstrated the growing importance of Prague to the church. At the castle, primitive defences were removed, making room for gardens, parade grounds and the other needs of a modern empire. When the Habsburgs removed the imperial seat to Vienna, Hradčany seemed to become preserved in time, saving it from the ravages of war and modernization. The area abounds with interesting sights for art and history lovers, as well as romantic hidden lanes and parks – in short, a total expression of the Czech nation’s shifting epochs and politics.
1. Prague Castle
The first and main focus of most tourists’ visit to the city of Prague is the majestically located and architecturally varied castle complex (see Prague Castle). Its determined survival in the face of an often turbulent history seems only to heighten the castle’s lure for tourists. Despite its medieval appearance, it is still as much of a political stronghold as it has always been, and currently serves as the office of the country’s president, Miloš Zeman.
Prague Castle rising above the town
2. St Vitus Cathedral
The Gothic splendour of St Vitus’s spires can be seen from almost every vantage point in the city, but don’t miss the opportunity to see its beautiful stained-glass windows and imposing gargoyles up close.
3. Loreta
The onion-domed white towers of this Baroque 17th-century church (see The Loreto) complex are like something out of a fairy tale.
4. Royal Garden
U Prašného mostu • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily • www.hrad.cz
This garden was originally laid out in 1534 by Ferdinand I. Although today’s visitors may regret the disappearance of the maze and the pineapple trees that once featured here, they are likely to appreciate the absence of Rudolf II’s freely roaming lions and tigers. In the English-style garden are the former presidential residence (the First Lady didn’t like it), the sgraffitoed Ball Game Hall and Queen Anne’s Summer Palace (Letohrádek královny Anny), also known as the Belvedere.
Flowerbeds at the Royal Garden
5. Sternberg Palace
Hradčanské náměstí 15
This fine Baroque building, dating from 1698, houses the National Gallery’s collection of European art from the classical to the Baroque. Spread over three floors, it is without doubt the country’s best collection from the period. Its highlights include works by Rubens, Rembrandt and El Greco.
A Bronzino painting, Sternberg Palace
6. Nový Svět
Nestled below Loreto at the head of the Stag Moat, is Nový Svět (New World), the best street in town for a romantic stroll. The picturesque low houses were built in the 17th century to replace slums built for castle workers after their houses burned down in 1541. They have been spruced up, but are otherwise unspoiled. In defiance of their poverty, the inhabitants of these cottages chose to use golden signs to identify their modest houses – visitors will see depictions of a golden pear, a grape and an acorn. Rudolf II’s choleric astronomer Tycho Brahe lived at No. 1 and apparently found the noise of nearby church bells insufferable.
Charming houses lining tranquil Nový Svět
7. New Castle Steps
The Royal Route, established in the 15th century for the coronation of George of Poděbrady, covered the distance from the Municipal House on the Náměstí Republiky (see Old Town Square) to the castle. The last stretch climbed the hill here at the Zámecké schody, although the original steps were reconstructed during Empress Maria Theresa’s Hradčany renovation in the 18th century.
8. Old Castle Steps
The comparatively gentle slope of the Staré zámecké schody – the castle’s “back door” entrance – leads from the Malostranská metro to the citadel’s eastern gate. Local artists and artisans line the steps, selling everything from watercolour prints to polished stones.
9. Hradčanské náměstí
Many visitors enter this square backwards, trying to fit St Vitus’s spires into their photographs. Tear your eyes away from the castle’s western face and you’ll see, among other Renaissance buildings, the colourful Archbishop’s Palace and the Schwarzenberg Palace opposite, housing the Bohemian Baroque art of the National Gallery. In the green centre is a plague column from 1726; opposite the castle is the Toskánský Palace, now part of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
The grandiose Archbishop’s Palace
10. Radnické schody
The Courthouse Steps lead from Hradčany’s former mayoral residence, now the hotel Zlatá Hvězda, to the old courthouse at Loretánská 1. At the bottom are two statues – on the left is St John of Nepomuk and on the right St Joseph with the infant Jesus in Renaissance garb. There are more steps than is immediately apparent, making the pub halfway up a convenient stopping-off point.
STAG MOAT
When the Stag Moat was not fulfilling its defensive duties, Prague’s rulers used it as a hunting park. Rudolf II is said to have been particularly fond of chasing deer around the narrow, wooded gorge with his pet lions. The Powder Bridge’s earthworks were excavated to permit pedestrians access to both halves of the moat.
A DAY IN HRADČANY
MORNING
Start your day with a brisk climb up the New Castle Steps, and time your ascent to hear the 10am Castle Guard brass quartet. After a leisurely stroll through the scenic grounds, leave the castle behind and walk west through Hradčanské náměstí. Head to the imposing Schwarzenberg Palace, set amid the Renaissance structures that surround the square, and take time to admire some Baroque Czech art. Alternatively, treat yourself to the Old Masters collection at Sternberg Palace.
Now walk up Loretánská to Loretánské náměstí, where you’ll find the vast Černín Palace staring down at Loreto. Explore the pilgrimage site and its odd gallery of saints before having lunch at the simple Kavárna Nový Svět.
AFTERNOON
Exit Loretánské náměstí past the Capuchin monastery and follow Černínská downhill, pausing on Nový Svět lane. Coo over the street’s charming piebald houses and follow Kanovnická street back to Hradčanské náměstí.
The rest of the afternoon will be taken up with a tour of the unmissable Prague Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the myriad of other attractions in the castle complex.
To end your sightseeing day in Hrad č any, find your way back to the famed pub U Černého vola at Loretánské náměstí 1 for a pickled sausage and a generous mug of beer.
Cafés and Pubs
1. U Černého vola
Loretánské nám. 1
“At the Black Ox” is one of the original Old Prague beerhalls. Watching the regulars knock back litres of beer, you can guess why it’s so popular.
2. The Strahov Monastic Brewery
Strahovské nádvoří 301
Located in the Strahov Monastery founded by Vladislav II in 1142, this place brews 25 delicious beers. The Saint Norbert is highly recommended.
3. Na Baště
Zahrada na Baště, Prague Castle • 224 373599
An out-of-the-way, peaceful café in the Gardens on the Bastion, which were designed by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, where you can rest over tea or coffee and light snacks.
4. Starbucks Pražský hrad
Hradčanské náměstí - Kajetánka
Sip an espresso on the rooftop while peering at Prague through one of the telescopes. The quiet patio has large tables where you can lunch and plan your visit to the castle next door.
5. Kavárna Nový Svět
Nový Svět 2 • 242 430700 • Closed Mon
Small family café hidden in a picturesque street. Try soup or salad for lunch, or just sit with a good cup of coffee and enjoy the atmosphere.
6. Romantik Hotel U Raka
Černínská 10
The Hotel U Raka at the far western end of Nový Svět is a striking half-timbered building, an unusual sight in the urban Czech Republic. Enjoy a coffee in cosy surroundings – there is an open fire in winter.
7. Café Šternberk
Hradčanské nám. 15
Situated in the Sternberg Palace, this is a good spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and a baguette or a light meal after visiting the castle and before heading off to visit the other palaces nearby.
8. Gallery Café
U Prašného mostu 53
This café and gallery is situated at the Powder Bridge in the former Jízdárna (Riding School) building. Outdoor seating is available in good weather and offers stunning views of Prague Castle and Stag Moat.
9. Café Melvin
Pohořelec 8
Set in a 15th-century house at the beginning of the Royal Route, this café serves a range of beverages, home-made desserts and sandwiches.
10. Lobkowicz Palace Café
Jiřská 3
This pleasant restaurant offers light lunches and suppers with a view of the city. The café in the courtyard is a good place to end your tour of the castle.
Lobkowicz Palace Café balcony
Restaurants
1. Hradčany Restaurant
Hotel Savoy, Keplerova 6 • 224 302122 • 
This fine dining restaurant is one of the best in the country.
2. Peklo
Strahovské nadvoří 1 • 220 516652 • 
Continental dining in a grotto under the Strahov Monastery. Traditional Czech meals include golden-roasted pork knee.
3. U Císařů
Loretánská 5 • 220 518484 •
The restaurant “At the Emperors” serves traditional specialities and international favourites. The decor includes fine pewter tableware collections, hunting weapons and blacksmith bellows.
4. U ševce Matouše
Loretánské náměstí 4 • 220 514536 •
“At the Cobbler Matouš”, in a cosy, low, vaulted room, has made an art of melting cheese on beefsteaks.
5. Malý Buddha
Úvoz 46 • 220 513894 • No credit cards • 
The “Little Buddha” serves a wide range of potent teas and Vietnamese food.
6. Restaurant Nový Svět
Nový Svět 77 • 723 764940 •
This restaurant serves delicious Czech and international dishes, and is immensely popular with locals and tourists alike.
7. Villa Richter
Staré zámecké schody 6 • 702 205108 •
With panoramic views of the city and a choice of two restaurants, this Neo-Classical villa has it all. Piano Nobile specializes in Czech food and wine, while Terra offers Italian dishes and has a sunny terrace overlooking the vineyard.
Elegant setting at Villa Richter
8. U Labutí
Hradčanské náměstí 11 • 220 511191 •
Restaurant “At the Swans” serves up Zubr lager and some substantial dishes, such as schnitzel and goulash. There is seating in the courtyard.
9. Host Restaurant
Loretánská 15 • 606 123449 •
Excellent, stylish dining alongside sweeping views of Petřín Hill and Malá Strana.
10. Lví dvůr
U Prašného mostu 6 • 607 202532 •
The rooftop dining room affords incomparable views of St Vitus Cathedral. Enjoy Lobkowicz Premium beer alongside deli-cious Czech cuisine.