Gràcia, Tibidabo & Zona Alta
The Zona Alta (Uptown) is an area covering several neighbourhoods that, as the name suggests, are in the hilly part of the city. From the moneyed streets of Pedralbes and Tibidabo to bohemian Gràcia, this entire northern area of the city offers stunning views and regal attractions. But what really sets this area apart from the rest of the city is its 15 parks; the best are Gaudí’s stunning and imaginative Parc Güell, and the colossal natural park of Collserolla, which spreads out like green baize over Tibidabo mountain. Gràcia stands out as the city’s most cosmopolitan neighbourhood. Its strong political tradition and gypsy community have long drawn artists and writers to the labyrinthine streets, and it is now home to scores of innovative boutiques, bars and squares, which teem with life most nights of the week.
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Sights & Attractions
Parc d’Atraccions del Tibidabo
Take the 100-year-old funicular up to the top of Tibidabo’s 517-m (1,695-ft) mountain to visit this traditional amusement park, which first opened in 1908. Although there are a couple of stomach-churning, white-knuckle rides, the real attractions are the quaint, old-fashioned ones, including a beautifully conserved carousel and a Ferris wheel. Here also is the Museu dels Autòmates, with automatons, mechanical models and a scale model of the park.
Pl de Tibidabo
Opening times vary, call 93 211 79 42 for details
Adm
DA
Monestir de Pedralbes
Named after the Latin petras albas, which means white stones, this outstandingly beautiful Gothic monastery was founded by Queen Elisenda de Montcada de Piños in the early 14th century. Her alabaster tomb lies in the wall between the church and the particularly impressive three-storey Gothic cloister. An interesting glimpse of medieval life is provided by the furnished kitchens, cells, infirmary and refectory, all of which are well preserved.
C/Baixada Monestir 9
Open 10am–2pm Tue–Sun
Adm; free 1st Sun of the month
DA
Cloister, Monestir de Pedralbes
Exterior, Monestir de Pedralbes
Torre de Collserola
This slender telecommunications tower was designed by British architect Norman Foster. The needle-like upper structure rests on a concrete pillar and is anchored by 12 huge steel cables. Rising to a height of 560 m (1836 ft) above sea level, the top is reached by a glass-fronted elevator. On a clear day, you can see Montserrat and the Pyrenees.
Parc de Collserola
Open 11am–2pm, 3:30–6pm Wed–Sun; 11am–6pm Sat–Sun (to 7pm Jul–Aug)
Adm
DA
Torre de Collserola
Museu del FC Barcelona & Camp Nou Stadium
Barcelona’s most visited museum is a must for fans of the beautiful game. With football memorabilia of every conceivable kind, you can learn all about the club’s history. Work donated by some of Catalonia’s leading artists is also on display. Admission includes access to Barca’s 120,000-seater stadium, an impressive monument to the city’s love-affair with the game.
Entrance 9 Stadium, Av Arístides Maillol
Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm Apr–Oct), 10am–2:30pm Sun
Adm
Camp Nou Stadium
Palau Reial de Pedralbes
The former main residence of Count Eusebi Güell was donated to the Spanish royal family in 1919. Open to the public since 1937, this majestic palace houses the Museu de Ceràmica, the Museu de Textil and the Museu de les Arts Decoratives. The former has a fine collection of Catalan and Moorish ceramics; the Museu de les Arts Decoratives has period furniture, plus a number of artifacts dating from the Middle Ages onwards, and the Museu de Textil focuses on fashion and costume. The magnificent gardens include a fountain designed by Gaudí.
Av Diagonal 686
Museums open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun
Adm (free 1st Sun of the month)
DA
Museu de Ceràmica, Palau Reial
Museu de les Arts Decoratives, Palau Reial
Parc Güell
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, this heady brew of architectural wizardry includes trencadís tiling, a serpentine bench, fairytale pavilions, Gothic archways, and the columned Sala Hipóstila (originally intended as a market hall). In true Gaudí style, playfulness and symbolism pervade every aspect of the park. The Casa-Museu Gaudí, where Gaudí lived for 20 years, is dedicated to the architect’s life.
C/d’Olot
Open 10am–dusk daily
Free
Casa-Museu Gaudí
Open Oct–Mar 10am–5:45pm; Apr–Sep 10am–7:45pm
Adm €5.50
Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor
Visible from almost anywhere in Barcelona, the Temple of the Sacred Heart was built by Enric Sagnier between 1902 and 1911. It has a dramatic sculpture of Jesus and an elaborately decorated door that verges on the psychedelic. Take the elevator up the main tower, or climb the steps to the outside terrace for breathtaking views.
Pl del Tibidabo
Open 10am–8pm daily (Elevator open 10:30am–2pm & 3–7pm daily)
Adm
Parc de Collserola
Beyond the peaks of Tibidabo mountain, this 6,500-ha (16,000-acre) natural park of wild forest and winding paths is an oasis of calm. It is great for hiking and biking (see Walks & Bike Rides), with sign-posted paths and nature trails.
Info point
C/Església 92
Tramvia Blau
The city’s blue trams, with their old-fashioned, wooden interiors are attractions in themselves. The route, from the FGC station to Plaça Doctor Andreu, passes many Modernista mansions to the top of Avinguda Tibidabo.
Av Tibidabo
Trams run 10am–8pm (Oct–May 6pm) daily (mid-Sep–late June Sat, Sun & bank hols only)
Adm
Parc del Laberint d’Horta
In 1802, the Marquès d’Alfarràs hosted a huge party in these wonderful Neo-Classical gardens to celebrate the visit of Carles IV. Designed by Italian architect Domenico Bagotti, they incorporate a lake, a waterfall, canals and a wonderful cypress-tree maze.
C/German Desvalls
Open 10am–dusk daily
Free (Wed & Sun), Adm (all other days)
Gràcia
Until the end of the 19th century, Gràcia was a fiercely proud independent city. Despite locals’ protests, it became part of Barcelona proper in 1898, but has always maintained a sense of separatism and has been a hotbed of political activity. It is now home to a booming cottage industry nurtured by a growing band of artisans. Don’t miss the barrio’s annual fiesta (see Festa Major de Gràcia) in the second week of August.
Exploring the Heights
Morning
Taking the northern route of the Bus Tourístic (see Tours & Trips) is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of the city; it also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at Plaça de Catalunya (tickets can be bought on board) and sit on the top deck for a good view of the Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsical Parc Güell your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s other-worldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1600 ft) up Av Tibidabo and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial El Asador d’Aranda .
Afternoon
After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine, continue strolling up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu where you can hop on the steep funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de Tibidabo. Pop into the Parc d’Atraccions for a ride on the dodgems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark Torre de Collserola , where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for spectacular views. Return to Plaça Doctor Andreu on the funicular and treat yourself to a granissat ) in one of the terrace bars. Then go down Av Tibidabo on the charming Tramvia Blau and catch the Bus Tourístic back to the city centre.
Gràcia Boutiques
Naftalina
Of all the cottage industry boutiques in Gràcia, Naftalina has the most stylish interior – befitting the equally stylish, hand-made designer clothes. Chic, elegant, understated women’s wear with an emphasis on textured fabrics.
C/La Perla 33
Ninas
Nina, an American designer, sells simple, modern women’s clothes made from fine fabrics. The shop is housed in a gorgeous Modernista building which was once a butcher’s, and has a workshop at the back.
C/Verdi 39
Llena eres de Gràcia
For gorgeous women’s fashions, accessories and evening wear at surprisingly reasonable prices, try this colourful boutique. The clothes are very wearable but most have a quirky twist.
C/Ros de Olano 52
José Rivero
José provides his own original in-house creations for men and women; he also sells crafted accessories, including handbags, by young local designers.
C/Astúries 43
Multiart
This fabric workshop sells colourful, hand-printed textiles, bedlinen, and clothes for men and women. It also runs educational dress-making workshops.
C/Sant Joaquim 23
Món de Mones
For colourful jewellery and accessories, try the ‘World of Monkeys’ (món de mones in Catalan) near the Plaça del Sol. The designer, Teresa Roig, uses a variety of materials from glass to felt to create her original designs.
C/Xiquets de Valls 9
Camiseria Pons
One of the oldest shops in this area, this men’s specialist shop sells shirts by top Spanish and international designers, including Ralph Lauren.
Gran de Gràcia 49
Mushi Mushi
From hard-to-find, small labels to the best international collections, this pretty little boutique stocks a fine selection of women’s fashion. It also offers a small range of shoes, bags and accessories.
Plaça Rius i Taulet 5
El Piano
El Piano sells elegant and stylish women’s clothes with a retro flair made by Catalan designer Tina García. It also stocks clothes by other independent designers.
C/Verdi 20 bis
Zucca
One of three branches in Barcelona, Zucca offers a superb range of colourful fashion accessories. The stock includes plastic flowers for your hair and stick-on navel rings.
C/Torrent de l’Olla 175
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Gràcia Cafés
Cafè del Sol
This café-bar is a cut above the others in the lively, bohemian Plaça del Sol. The atmosphere buzzes, the conversation inspires and the excellent coffee keeps on coming.
Pl del Sol 16
DA
La Cafetera
Of all the cafés on Plaça de la Virreina, this one, with its outdoor terrace and tiny patio full of potted plants, is easily the most pleasant for a quiet and leisurely morning coffee and a sandwich.
Pl de la Virreina
Aroma
It’s always a pleasure to smell the coffee being freshly ground at this cream-walled and wood-beamed café. Hundreds of coffees to choose from, with takeaway packets available.
Travessera de Gràcia 151
DA
Vreneli
The cosy Plaça de Rius i Taulet boasts four café terraces to choose from. Vreneli is the most interesting one, with a mixture of Mexican, Swiss and Spanish fare. No alcohol is served.
Pl Rius i Taulet 8
Closed Mon
DA
Blues Cafè
The walls at this dusky, atmospheric café-bar are plastered with black-and-white photos of John Lee Hooker and Leadbelly, among others. The music, electric or acoustic, is always the blues.
C/Perla 35
Cafè del Teatre
This is an ideal place to find a young, friendly crowd and good conversation. The only connection with the theatre here seems to be the velvet curtains on the sign over the door of this scruffy, but busy, café.
C/Torrijos 41
Cafè de Gràcia
This airy and spacious café, with salmon walls and mirrors, is an ideal spot for a quick coffee away from the crowds. Service is speedy and a touch more formal than most places in Gràcia.
C/Gran de Gràcia 34
Sureny
A sophisticated addition to this square, Sureny is simple but stylish, with a tantalizing selection of tapas and plenty of wines available by the glass.
Pl Revolució 17
Closed Mon
DA
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Hip Drinking Spots
Universal Café
Open until 5:30am, Universal Café is a late-night, two-level bar with a spacious, airy interior. The image-conscious crowd comes to flirt and dance to house (upstairs) and acid jazz (below).
C/Marià Cubí 182
Closed Sun
Occasional adm
Elephant
Lavish, stylish and totally unique, Elephant is one of the best clubs in the city for a fun night out. In summer, you can lounge in the garden on huge, white beds.
Passeig dels Til.lers 1
Casa Quimet
The “Guitar House” is always crowded and noisy. If you can play, join the enthusiasts and would-be flamenco players who pick guitars off the wall and have an impromptu jam session. Wonderful.
C/Rambla de Prat 9
Closed Mon–Wed & Feb & Aug
Sala BeCool
A favourite in the chic Sant Gervasi neighbourhood, Sala BeCool offers a wide-ranging programme of DJ sessions, club nights and live gigs.
Plaça Joan Llongueras 5
Otto Zutz
Barcelona’s media crowd flocks to this New-York-style club to chatter in the corners upstairs and shoot pool downstairs. The huge dance floors throb with house music.
C/Lincoln 15
Closed Sun–Mon
Adm
Heliogàbal
This cult, live music venue is best on Thursday or Sunday nights when you can hear anything from an indie band to a poetry slam. Prices are very reasonable too.
C/Ramón y Cajal 80
Bikini
Opening from midnight onwards, this huge venue has three spaces, which offer dance and Latin music and a cocktail lounge. Regular live music includes some of the best up-and-coming acts in Europe.
C/Deu i Mata 105
Closed Mon
Adm
DA
NOTE
Normal closing times for bars is 2:30am, 3am weekends. Clubs open until 4:30/6am. For more on Barcelona’s nightlife see Night-time Hot Spots
Restaurants & Tapas Bars
El Asador d’Aranda
Housed in the magnificent Modernista Casa Roviralta, this restaurant is a magnet for business-folk. Order the delicious lamb roasted in an oak-burning oven and dine in the beautiful garden.
Av Tibidabo 31
93 417 01 15
Closed Sun dinner
Bar-Restaurante Can Tomàs
This tapas bar, in the Sarrià neighbourhood, is an institution. It has the well-deserved reputation of making some of the best tapas in town. Particularly recommended are the patates braves.
C/Major de Sarrià 49
93 203 10 77
Closed Wed
No credit cards
Hofmann
Run by the talented chef Mey Hofmann, this restaurant serves some seriously delicious Catalan cuisine. Save room for the desserts.
C/La Granada del Penedès 14–16
93 2 18 71 65
DA
Neichel
Top-class in every way, Neichel lures a moneyed clientele with nouvelle cuisine and a luscious interior. Reserve in advance.
C/Beltrán i Rózpide 1
93 203 84 08
Closed Sun & Mon
Taverna El Glop
This tavern-like eatery serves traditional Catalan food. Its calçots (chargrilled, gigantic spring onions with spicy romesco sauce) are legendary (served only in spring).
C/St Lluis 24
93 213 70 58
DA
Àbac
At the foot of Tibidabo mountain, Àbac offers French-Mediterranean cuisine prepared by award-winning chef, Xavier Pellicer.
Avinguda Tibidabo 1
93 319 66 00
Closed lunch Sun, Mon, Fri lunch
DA
La Balsa
In the quiet Bonanova district, La Balsa is a beautiful spot, with two garden terraces. Fine Basque, Catalan and Mediterranean dishes are on the menu.
C/Infanta Isabel 4
93 211 50 48
Closed Sun dinner, Mon lunch & lunch in Aug
Tram Tram
Housed in a handsome old town house, this restaurant serves, innovative, contemporary Catalan cuisine.
C/Major de Sarria 121
93 204 85 18
Closed Sat lunch, Sun, Mon, fortnight in Aug
Botafumeiro
The fish tanks at this seafood restaurant are teeming with crabs and lobster destined for plates. Try the tender pulpo Gallego (Galician octopus). Reservations are essential.
C/Gran de Gràcia 81
93 218 42 30
DA
NOTE
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards. For more on dining and standard opening hours see Eating & Drinking