Vancouver's downtown core is a blend of old and new, all nicely contained in a walkable package that extends from BC Place Stadium to the West End. The city’s first church sits at the corner of Georgia and Burrard streets, hemmed in by glass-walled office towers. The landmark Fairmont Hotel Vancouver graces the opposite corner, a glorious reminder of yesteryear. Alive with activity, downtown hums all day and much of the night. The core includes high-density residential areas, street and mall shopping, theaters, music venues, restaurants, and nightclubs, all adding up to a pleasant, invigorating energy.
West End residents, the city’s urban chic, international celebrities, and tourists alike flock to Robson Street to join the bustle of shoppers. Part of the fun is people watching over a specialty coffee, then browsing the brand name and independent Canadian and international shops. Slip down a side street to get a taste of the historic West End, Canada’s most densely populated area.
A gem in the heart of the city and once a beacon for mariners entering Vancouver’s harbor, Christ Church Cathedral, consecrated in 1895, was designed in the Gothic Revival style. The interior has impressive old-growth Douglas fir ceiling beams. Three of the 32 stained-glass windows are by the British artist William Morris; look for them in the office vestibule. As part of a major renovation, a Kenneth Jones organ was installed.
Begun in 1928 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, construction on the city’s most famous hotel halted with the 1929 stock market crash. Its steel skeleton sat until 1939, when it was hastily finished for the visit of King George VI. Features include a steep copper roof with impish gargoyles. Stroll through the lobby and enjoy afternoon tea or a drink in the lounge, while admiring the lavishness.
The Vancouver Central Library, designed in part by renowned architect Moshe Safdie, opened in 1995. At first criticized by some for its resemblance to a Roman coliseum, it soon became universally popular. Library Square takes up a whole city block, and includes the library; a seven-story, glass-roofed promenade; the Federal Tower, housing government offices; souvenir shops, a coffee bar, and take-out restaurants. The promenade is an ideal place to relax and people watch.
When the Court House was erected in 1912, designed by Francis Rattenbury, one of BC’s flashiest architects, its solid form symbolized the British Empire at its peak. Another controversial architect, Arthur Erickson, supervised the redesign of the building when it became the Vancouver Art Gallery in the mid-1980s. Inside, the Emily Carr collection is Canada’s largest. Contemporary photo conceptual work also has a prominent place.
Quality department stores including The Bay anchor the host of smaller shops in this huge mall, which features cascading fountains and a three-story waterfall. Restaurants and takeaways dot the concourse.
Twenty galleries showcase BC’s sports history from the 1860s onward in a 20,000 sq ft (1,858 sq m) space located in BC Place Stadium. Interactive displays provide fascinating details of the lives of famous athletes such as skier Nancy Green and sprinter Harry Jerome. The Participation Gallery is especially fun for kids.
The striking geodesic dome housing Science World’s many interactive galleries and travelling exhibitions was built for Expo ‘86. Visitors can play with magnetic liquids, touch animal skin and bones, and check out exhibits on motion, and energy, as well as laser shows. The OMNIMAX® Theatre’s giant screen fits into the dome’s curves.
False Creek once covered an extensive part of the downtown area. It now ends at Quebec Street, site of Science World. The paved False Creek Seawalk joins English Bay Seawalk just east of Burrard Bridge and circles the creek. It’s ideal for in-line skaters, cyclists, and walkers. Access to False Creek ferries is available at several points along the seawalk.
Spanning several blocks, the four-level Robson Square was designed by BC architect Arthur Erickson. On the south side of Robson Street, a cascading waterfall and trees cool the steps near Spring, a red steel sculpture by Alan Chung Hung. On the level above, inside the Law Courts, is a pond with seating and a good view. Jack Harman’s sculpture, Themis Goddess of Justice, presides over the Great Hall, with its expanses of glass.
Morning
Start at BC Place Stadium, exploring the BC Sports Hall of Fame and Museum for about an hour. Exiting the museum, head west toward Robson St, passing by the Terry Fox Memorial, a tribute to the local hero who raised millions of dollars for cancer research.
Continue west three blocks along Robson St to Homer St, and Library Square. Drop in to have a look at the building’s airy promenade before walking west on Robson St to Pacific Centre. Peruse the shops for about an hour, then exit the mall and cross Howe St to the Vancouver Art Gallery. Enjoy a salad and sandwich in its casually elegant Gallery Café, snagging a patio table if weather permits.
Afternoon
After lunch, head to the fourth floor of the Vancouver Art Gallery and the wonderful Emily Carr Collection. Begin by watching the 15-minute video about this remarkable painter of forests and totem poles.
Exiting the gallery, cross Robson St and stroll through lovely Robson Square. Then it’s on to shopping along Robson Street. Satisfy a sweet tooth at one of the several chocolate shops. Loop back to Burrard St.
End the day with a treat at • Kamei Royale Japanese Restaurant • 1030 W Georgia St. The excellent sushi chefs welcome you enthusiastically.
Classic Canadian-designed sportswear and leatherwear, including a wide range of accessories, from watches to belts and backpacks.
This Vancouver-based company sells wildly popular men’s and women’s yoga apparel, athletic gear, and casual wear.
This large BC Liquor Store carries an extensive variety of well-displayed wines, spirits, beers, and BC ice wine, made from frozen grapes.
Contemporary and traditional Canadian paintings and sculptures reflect West Coast beauty. First Nations and Inuit artists are well represented.
Belgian chocolate and all- natural or organic ingredients are used to create the delicious pralines and champagne, coffee, and lemon truffles sold here.
This uniquely Canadian brand dates back to the early 1800s. The iconic Vancouver store offers instore boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and Chanel, plus its own relatively affordable line.
The haunt of trendy Vancouverites, Aritzia is a homegrown store selling cool clothing.
Fluevog’s funky and trendy, yet sturdy, shoes and boots are snapped up by the fashion savvy.
Here’s your chance to buy something in the legendary blue box from the famous New York jewelry store.
The Murchie family began selecting, blending, and selling fairtrade tea and coffee in 1894 and the tradition continues today.
Delight in traditional grilled dishes, or in the house-original rolls at the sushi bar.
The latest gathering spot for locavores is all about sustainable dining. Forage’s innovative cuisine showcases dishes made with local and organic produce.
Located in the trendy Moda Hotel, Cibo serves authentic Italian cuisine made with fresh organic ingredients.
Delicious rotisserie meats, pasta, and risotto are served in this large Italian-themed restaurant popular with visiting Hollywood stars.
In the open kitchen, chefs conjure up gastronomical magic. The exceptional wine list is topped with BC wines.
Enjoy tasty Thai food prepared with homemade sauces, served in a tropical setting. Friendly, attentive service.
This vibrant two-storey room showcases BC’s finest, freshest fish and seafood – try one of the seafood towers.
Pacific waters lap outside this trend-setting English Bay restaurant; sunsets are a bonus. The focus is on regional, seasonal, and organic food.
Alsatian tart has been the signature dish at this elegant French restaurant for many years. Its selection of French wines is a highlight.
Delicious contemporary cuisine is the order of the day at this restaurant in the legendary Hotel Georgia.
About as Irish as you’ll get in Vancouver, the aptly named Ceili’s (meaning “gathering of friends for food, drink, and good times”) is packed every night. Live music adds to the night time buzz from Wednesday through to Saturday.
A Vancouver institution since 1929, the club hosts ticketed rock, pop, blues, and jazz acts.
A popular club that styles itself after the boutique clubs of Miami, New York, and London with its glitzy decor and state-of-the-art sound system.
Upscale club with two levels and a huge dance floor. Top 40 and retro nights.
Live country, folk, roots, and funk at this legendary club. Microbrews, quality wines, and scotch and martini lists.
Live and spun house, reggae, R&B, and soul at this retro-style lounge. Tasty snacks forestall the effects of specialty martinis and cocktails.
The home of Vancouver’s alternative music scene, Venue has live bands and a wrap-around balcony with terrific views.
Top 40 selections reverberate off the lofty ceiling while candlelit tables inspire romantic whisperings. Dress to impress.
The bartenders become performance artists at this chic bar in the Four Seasons Hotel. Food is served on a communal dining table.
Where the locals go to dance to local and Canadian bands. Hugely popular during the weekends, so arrive early.
With seafood as fresh as the crowd that dines there, this casual eatery is fun and inexpensive – time it right for “buck a shuck” oysters.
Expect lots of slurping at the counter of this no-frills ramenya, which is wildly popular for its BBQ pork shio.
Find a table and energize with a slice of Flying Wedge pizza, or choose between a Blenz coffee with a Rocky Road square and a Yogen Früz yogurt cone.
Made to order take-out sushi and the freshest sashimi, served either in individual bento boxes or on sushi trays for large groups.
Snag a booth in this stylish Italian restaurant, and be sure to ask about the daily pasta special, served with garlic bread. BC wines featured.
Choose from Japanese or Chinese made-to-order dishes, pizza, burgers, tacos, juices, and frozen yogurts.
Choose from a range of soups, salads, and sandwiches, then peruse the exhibitions at the Vancouver Art Gallery.
Middle Eastern-style meat or vegetarian combos and falafel wraps at this tiny takeout require two hands to hold.
The gourmet grocery store’s restaurant serves up salads, soups, and a buffet made with the freshest ingredients.
Crepes are the specialty at this utilitarian spot. The berry and cream cheese, and spinach and feta are favorites.
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