The neighborhoods of South Granville and Yaletown are separated by a drive across Granville Bridge or a ferry ride across False Creek. On the south shore, South Granville offers a pleasant mix of upscale shops and restaurants. Granville Island is a bustling labyrinth of converted warehouses overlooking False Creek. The centerpiece is the large public market. Yaletown, on the north shore of the creek, began life as a railway works yard. Since the early 1990s, Yaletown has undergone a furiously fast transformation. The once-decrepit area now booms with offices, condos, boutiques, nightclubs, brew pubs, and restaurants.
The original mud flats of False Creek were a fishing ground for the Squamish people. Industry moved in, polluting much of the turn-of-the-19th-century city. In the 1970s, all that changed with the redevelopment of Granville Island. Under the aegis of the federal government, heavy industry moved out and Granville Island quickly became a colorful, bustling community. Free street parking is available with a three-hour limit, or choose paid parking in covered lots.
The white sands of Sunset Beach, which marks the end of the English Bay seawall and the start of False Creek, provide an ideal setting for relaxing, tanning, or swimming. Summertime water temperatures rise to 65°F (18°C), and lifeguards are on duty from mid-May to Labour Day. The western end of Sunset Beach provides a good view of the gray granite Inukshuk. The Vancouver Aquatic Centre, at the east end of the beach, has an Olympic-size swimming and diving pools, a sauna, a whirlpool, and a steam room. False Creek Ferries (For further details see Granville Island Ferries) dock behind the center.
Highlights of the West Coast’s rich maritime history include seagoing canoes and a 1928 RCMP schooner. Kids can play with the discovery center’s telescopes, computer games, and underwater robot (For further details see Vancouver Maritime Museum).
Sixteen art and antique galleries line the four-block stretch of Granville Street between 5th Avenue and West Broadway. There is no greater concentration of galleries in the city.
Located on Beach Avenue in a former Canadian Pacific Railway switching building, the Roundhouse includes theater and gallery spaces and a host of community arts and athletic programs. It also houses the locomotive that pulled the first passenger train to Vancouver in 1887 in a splendid glassed-in space.
Space lore is presented in child-friendly, hands-on displays and multimedia shows at the space center. A demonstration theater, the Virtual Voyages’ full-motion simulator, and the Cosmic Courtyard’s interactive gallery bring space to life. The Planetarium’s multimedia shows feature space and astronomy inside a 65-ft (20-m) dome, and its laser shows set to music are always popular.
Vanier Park is a calming oasis in the midst of the city. Boats sail by on English Bay, kites fly overhead, and pedestrians and cyclists pass through on their way to Kitsilano Beach or Granville Island. Coast Salish people once inhabited the park area. It is now home to the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre, Museum of Vancouver, and Vancouver Maritime Museum.
Warehouses have been transformed into lofts and stores, café terraces have sprung up on old loading docks, and high-rises have filled Yaletown’s skyline. Along with the new residents has come a facelift. Homer, Hamilton, and Mainland streets have been spruced up, making the most of heritage architectural features, including red brick and arched doorways. Numerous brew pubs and nightclubs keep the area hopping at night.
As its name implies, False Creek is not a creek at all but a saltwater inlet. In the heart of the city, it extends east from Burrard Bridge to Science World. In the 1850s, Captain G.H. Richards sailed up this body of water, which then covered what is now Chinatown, eastward to Clark Drive, hoping to find the Fraser River. Disappointed, he named it False Creek. The mud flats Richards saw served as fishing grounds for the Squamish people. Sawmills later set up on the south shore, railyards on the north. Today, paved paths flank both sides (For further details see False Creek Seawalk), and boats and small ferries (For further details see Granville Island Ferries) ply the waters.
Canada’s largest civic museum boasts re-creations of Vancouver’s history, from a fur-trading post to an amazing display of neon signs. Artifacts from a huge collection, much of which was donated by locals, make up natural history, archaeology, Asian arts, and ethnology exhibits. The Egyptian boy mummy is one of the museum’s biggest attractions.
Morning
Start in Yaletown at the corner of Drake and Hamilton streets for a 15-minute stroll north on Hamilton, noting its historic buildings. At Helmcken St, turn right, then right again at Mainland St. Spend half an hour in the shops, ending at The Cross Decor & Design.
Cross Pacific Blvd to admire the Roundhouse’s Steam Train 374. Take 15 minutes exploring the complex, then hop on the Aquabus (For further details see Granville Island Ferries) from the dock behind the center for the short trip to Granville Island. For a fun hour, wander the public market, buying food for a casual lunch on a waterside bench.
Afternoon
Exit the market’s east side. Continue on Johnston St past Ocean Concrete. Turn right on Old Bridge St to watch the glass blower at New-Small and Sterling Glass Studio. Walk to Railspur District, on your left. Browse the shops for 20 minutes, then cross adjacent Railspur Park to Cartwright St. Turn left and walk to the end, to Ron Basford Park where kids love running up and down “the mound.”
Back on Johnston St, head west to peek at the modern art in the Charles H. Scott Gallery. Head towards Vanier Park to find the Museum of Vancouver, allowing yourself an hour there.
End the day at • The Sandbar • 1535 Johnston St for views of the market, False Creek, and the West End.
At Granville Island’s west end is the large public market, housed in part in a wood-frame, corrugated tin-clad warehouse. Built in the early 1920s by the Island’s first tenant, BC Equipment, this structure set the architectural style of the Island. The timbered beams and massive pulleys and hooks once pulled rope coils from one area to the other.
Two food courts offer sit-down and takeaway food, including Greek, Mexican, Thai, Chinese, and Canadian. Patience and strategy may be required to land one of the limited indoor tables.
Artful displays tempt with fruits and vegetables – much of it organic – fresh from the orchards and farms of BC. Okanagan cherries, apples, and peaches are a summer delight. BC wild salmon is another market specialty – both fresh and smoked in gift boxes.
Irresistible Belgian chocolate treats are concocted on-site in a copper vat. Assorted gift boxes include fudge, toffee, brittles, and caramel apples. Samples available!
Mouth-watering pies, chocolate confections, and pastries fill one counter; multigrain, cheese, and other loaves crowd the other.
Enjoy your takeaway food or just relax at the rustic seating areas overlooking False Creek. Exit the west side of the market for views of the marina. On the east side, enjoy free entertainment in the Market Courtyard. The courtyard’s worn floor planks from its days as an industrial dock add to the charm.
Day vendors sell an assortment of locally made wares, including seasonal and specialty items. Bowls made of BC wood, Thai curry sauces, herb seedlings, homemade pies, and jewelry are just the start. Vendors may not be located in the same place from day to day.
Licensed musicians, magicians, clowns, jugglers, and other talented folk entertain free of charge, though a donation is always appreciated.
Abundance and quality are the themes at the market’s flower shops. It is worth a stop just to admire the gorgeous blooms and take in the heady scents.
At the marina on the market’s west side you’ll find fancy yachts, simple sail boats, and the occasional fishing boat. Tall ships dock here during festivals.
This iconic south Granville food emporium has a similar design to NYC’s famous Dean & DeLuca and is based around the concept of buying fresh ingredients on a regular basis.
Located in a 1914 heritage building, this fabulous store sources items from all over the world, and also features pieces by local artists and vendors.
Carry or ship home Egyptian cotton linens, Italian bedding, tapestries, and leather journals, Fornasetti plates, cashmere throws, and Fortuni lamps.
This shop sells the best selection of BC wines at vineyard prices, as well as gourmet gift baskets.
The best of BC crafts, from handmade clothing to one-of-a-kind jewelry to wall art, ceramics, and hand-blown glass.
Since 1931 Freedman has brought its customers the best in stylish footwear and is a Granville landmark. Featured brands include Converse, Dr. Martens, Ted Baker and Timberland.
High-end gold and silver jewelry with precious stones. Bold rings, fluid necklaces.
This stylish, friendly clothing boutique sells exclusive European labels and American seasonal lines for men and women.
Prints by Canadian (particularly BC) and international artists with images and styles – from photo-realism to abstract – to suit all tastes.
Trend-setting styles from a variety of men’s and women’s lines, including Missoni, Etro, and Blumarine. Free alterations.
This live music destination boasts a huge split-level room that can hold 500 people and plays host to some of the city’s top alternative DJs.
Strut your stuff on an elevated catwalk or boogie on the mezzanine dance floor at this eclectic dancing and dining venue.
Enjoy locally brewed beer here while dining on homestyle cooking in the pub, the restaurant, or on the popular patio.
A 50-ft (15-m) long bar is the centerpiece at this tongue-in-cheek nod to Oxford University and British sporting culture.
In a converted warehouse, this New York style nightclub draws a hip urban crowd. Live music, a spacious dance floor, and ample seating.
This new world eatery and cocktail bar with an old world atmosphere attracts sustainability-conscious diners and experienced cocktailers alike.
Savor the delicious beer brewed here while admiring the boats on False Creek. Great patio.
This low-key hangout attracts theatergoers and actors from the Granville Island Stage next door. Live music and jams, with a focus on local talent.
This trendy spot for the well-heeled cocktail crowd features London-influenced modern mixology in a gorgeous room with velvet banquettes.
This sophisticated hotel bar attracts a glamorous crowd. Caribbean-inspired cocktails are delicious but pricey.
Inventive West Coast dishes made with the freshest local fish, and sushi made with coastal shellfish, are masterfully prepared here. Excellent wine list.
Dishes such as blueberry salmon gravlax make for loyal customers at this restaurant taking a stand on sustainability.
Vancouver’s perennial favorite serves contemporary regional cuisine and houses a highly-awarded wine collection.
Chef “Pino” Posteraro creates delicious lighter versions of traditional Italian pasta, risottos, and seafood dishes.
This restaurant and bar is one of the prettiest places on False Creek. A sommelier is on hand to help select the wine. Picnic baskets available.
This celeb-spotting hotspot is renowned for its tapas, steaks, and of course satays. Superb wine list.
The action is at the counter, so sidle up and order any of 12 to 20 oyster varieties, shucked as you watch. Steamed clams and mussels, crab, and Atlantic lobster are also featured.
Diners head to Brix for game and fresh fish favorites, including Yukon Arctic char, and to enjoy the romantic courtyard.
A must-have at this bistro is the salmon cooked to perfection paired with the Blue Mountain pinot noir.
Feast on Dungeness crab cakes and cedar-planked salmon while enjoying breathtaking views of False Creek, English Bay, and the West End.
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