TopTen

Granada and Almeria Provinces

So taken are they with the legendary palaces of the Alambra, most tourists discover little else in these two provinces. However, besides numerous important and unique attractions in the enchanting city of Granada itself, the entire region is worth exploring, being especially rich in natural wonders. Spectacular mountains and superbly untouched coastal areas are the pride of both provinces, while inland some of the remote villages are among Andalucía’s most fascinating and historic. Finally, film buffs will be delighted with the old “Spaghetti Western” movie sets that have been turned into endearingly quirky theme parks.

1. Sierra Nevada

Spain’s tallest peaks – and, after the Alps, Europe’s second loftiest chain – make Andalucía home to some excellent winter sports and robust trekking in spring and summer, as well as abundant wildflowers and wildlife. For the more culturally inclined, the historic villages of the Alpujarras, on the southern slopes, are a fascinating study in an age old way of life of the Sierra Nevada.

2. Moorish Granada

The fairytale palace of the Alhambra is one of Spain’s main attractions, drawing millions of visitors each year. In the city below, the ancient Albaicín district embodies a microcosm of a North African village, a “Little Morocco”, with colourful market streets and tearooms. Above and behind the area stands Sacromonte, the traditional home of cave-dwelling gypsies. Also worth a visit is the Museo Caja-Granada Memoria de Andalucía, devoted to Andalucian culture (for further details see Moorish Granada: The Alhambra).prac_infoMuseo CajaGranada Memoria de Andalucía • Avda de la Ciencia 2 • 958 22 22 57www.memoriadeandalucia.com • Open mid-Jun–Aug: 10am–2pm, 5–8pm Tue–Sat, 11am–3pm Sun & hols; Sep–mid-Jun: 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat, 11am–3pm Sun & hols; Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec • Adm

3. Cathedral & Capilla Real, Granada

To unequivocally establish Christian rule, these triumphalist structures were built by some of the greatest architects of the age and adorned with important works of art. The towering interior of Granada’s cathedral is one of the most spectacular achievements of the period, while Alonso Cano’s façade echoes the ancient triple arch favoured by Roman emperors. The Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) is Granada’s finest Christian building and a repository of rare treasures, including a reja (gilded grille) by Bartolomé de Jaén, priceless crown jewels, and paintings by Roger van der Weyden and Sandro Botticelli (for further details see Capilla Real and Catedral, Granada).

prac_infoCatedral • C/Gran Via de Colón 5 • Open 10am–1:30pm & 4–8pm Mon–Sat, 4–8pm Sun • Adm

prac_infoCapilla Real • C/Oficios 3 • 958 22 92 39 • Open 10:30am–1pm & 4–7pm Mon–Sat, 11am–1pm & 4–7pm Sun • Adm

4. Monasterio de la Cartuja, Granada

Don’t let the austere exterior fool you – inside the church and sacristy of this Carthusian monastery lurk some of the most flamboyant Spanish Baroque architecture and detailing you’ll ever encounter. So busy are the arabesques, flourishes and excrescences of gilded and polychromed stucco that the architectural lines are all but swallowed up in ravishing visual commotion.prac_infoPaseo de la Cartuja • 958 16 19 32 • Open 10am–1pm, 4–8pm daily • Adm

5. Museo Parque de las Ciencias

This exciting complex, dedicated to science and exploration, is made up of numerous interactive areas, such as Journey Through the Human Body, Perception, Eureka and Biosphere. There’s an Observation Tower, a Planetarium and the Sala Explora, exclusively for children aged 3–7, where they can conduct their first experiments. There are also temporary themed exhibitions.prac_infoAvda de la Ciencia s/n, Granada • 958 13 19 00www.parqueciencias.com • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun & hols; Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm

6. Alhama de Granada

Clinging precariously to the edge of a breathtaking gorge, this whitewashed village has been known since Moorish times for its beauty and natural thermal waters (al-hamma means “hot spring” in Arabic). The Hotel Balneario preserves the 11th-century aljibe (cistern), graced by Caliphal arches. In the 16th-century Iglesia de la Encarnación some of the priestly vestments on display are said to have been embroidered by Queen Isabel the Catholic.

7. Almunecar & Around

The Costa Tropical is perhaps Spain’s most spectacular coast, where towering mountains rise from the shore. Almuñécar is the chief town along this stretch and it is now given over almost entirely to resort life. Yet it has an ancient heritage, dating back to the Phoenicians, and was an important port under the Moors. The intriguing Museo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios has a unique Egyptian vase dating from the 7th century BC.prac_infoMuseo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios • Barrio de San Miguel • 958 63 11 25 • Open 10:30am–1:30pm & 5:30–8pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am–2pm Sun & public hols • Adm

8. Guadix

This ancient town is famous for its cave dwellings, inhabited for centuries. They were developed after the reconquista by local Moors who had been cast out of society by the Christians. The Barrio de las Cuevas is a surreal zone of brown hills with rounded whitewashed chimneys sprouting up here and there. To learn more, visit the Cueva-Museo or instead stay in a cave hotel.prac_infoCueva-Museo • Plaza Padre Poveda • 958 66 47 67www.cuevamuseoalcazaba.com • Open 10am–2pm & 4:30–7pm Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat • Adm

9. Almeria City & Around

Almería, the “mirror of the sea”, has lost much of its appeal due to modern development. Still, its 10th-century Alcazaba is one of the most impressive of the extant Moorish fortresses, and the engaging old quarter that still seems North African in essence.prac_infoAlcazaba • C/Almanzor • 950 80 10 08 • Open Tue–Sat, hours vary month by month. Call ahead for opening times • Adm (free for EU members)

10. ”Wild West” Towns

The interior of Almería Province resembles the deserts and canyons of the American Southwest: it was the perfect spot for filming the wild west epics known as “Spaghetti Westerns” of the 1960s and 1970s. Three of the sets are now theme parks: Mini Hollywood, Fort Bravo and Western Leone offer stunt shows and memorabilia.

prac_infoMini Hollywood • Ctra N340 km 464, Tabernas • 950 36 52 36www.oasysparquetematico.com • Open 10am–9pm daily (summer), 10am–7pm Sat–Sun & pub. hols (winter) • Adm

prac_infoFort Bravo • Ctra N340 km 468, Paraje de Unihay s/n, Tabernas • 950 06 60 14www.fortbravo.es • Open 9am–6pm daily (to 8pm Jun–Aug) • Adm

prac_infoWestern Leone • Ctra A92 km 378, Tabernas • 950 16 54 05www.westernleone.es • Open 10am–8pm daily • Adm

Plasticultura

If you approach the coastal area of these provinces from the west, you will notice the extent of plastic tenting, a phenomenon that reaches a sea-like peak before Almería City. This agricultural technique is known as plasticultura, and is the last word in how to squeeze out every drop of moisture from these desert lands in order to produce crops. The process is anything but organic, but this huge agribusiness does provide jobs, mostly for itinerant North Africans.


A Morning in Granada

Begin your walk at Plaza Bib-Rambla, enhanced with flower stalls and the Neptune fountain. Fronting the western side of the square is the warren of ancient shopping streets called the Alcaicería. Don’t miss the 14th-century Moorish Corral del Carbón, which now houses a cultural centre.

Once the cathedral (for further details see Cathedral & Capilla Real, Granada) opens, it’s time for a visit there; be sure to see the enormous Santiago el Matamoros (the Moor­slayer) on horseback, by Alonso de Mena, adorning the altar of St James. The next stop is the Capilla Real; you should visit the crypt under the ostentatious marble sarcophagi of the kings and queens, where their bodies repose in plain lead boxes. On the carved Renaissance sepulchres, note the split pomegranate, symbol of a defeated Moorish Granada.

Continue on across the busy thoroughfares until you get to the river and the long expanse of the Plaza Nueva. Choose an outside table (the cafés here are all similar), order a drink and take in the street life.

Now it’s time to enter the labyrinth of the Albaicín. Take Calle Elvira up to Calle Calderería Vieja for the vibrant bazaar of the Moorish Quarter. Following the old steep streets, keep going until you reach the fanciful La Tetería del Bañuelo, an inviting place to sip some mint tea and sample Moroccan sweets.

Nightlife

1. El Camborio, Granada

This is a popular night venue in the caves of Sacromonte. Music echoes from four dance floors to the rooftop terraces, offering a striking view of the Alhambra at sunrise. Weekends are the time to go, unless you want the place to yourself.prac_infoCamino del Sacromonte 48 • 958 22 12 15

2. Granada 10, Granada

An opulent nightclub set in a 1930s theatre whose decor has been preserved. You can dance under crystal chandeliers, Neo-Classical-style plasterwork and plush private boxes. The music consists mainly of chart hits that attract people of all ages and styles.prac_infoC/Carcel Baja 10 • 958 22 40 01

3. Bar Pilar del Toro, Granada

Near Plaza Nueva, this bar is a popular spot with the well-heeled of Granada. The stunning interior has a secluded courtyard and comfortable rattan sofas.prac_infoC/Hospital de Santa Ana • 958 22 54 70

4. Sala Principe, Granada

In this two-storey disco the music consists mainly of Spanish pop and salsa but the DJ takes requests. It’s a popular place, decorated in rather vulgar imitation of the Nasrid palaces on the hill above.prac_infoCampo del Príncipe 7 • 958 22 80 88

5. Planta Baja, Granada

A two-storey venue: the upper floor is a quiet bar; downstairs, the DJs play chart hits and everyone dances.prac_infoC/Horno de Abad 11 • 958 22 04 94

6. Envidia Granada, Granada

The vibe here is gay-friendly but also draws a mixed crowd of locals and foreigners.prac_infoC/Buensuceso 5 • 958 25 60 73

7. El Bribon, Almeria

Three-level Cuban-themed club featuring Latin rhythms and the occasional cabaret show.prac_infoPuerto Deportivo de Aguadulce • 902 44 24 20

8. Cocktail Bar El Mojito, Roquetas de Mar

Caribbean-themed bar where Mojitos are obviously the order of the day. Located along the coast from Almería, it hosts live music.prac_infoPlaya Serena s/n, Edf. Los Flamencos 12

9. Sala Vinaambi, Granada

Artists’ association with varied live music: flamenco, jazz, Oriental, African and more. Rising flamenco artists perform in the Raiz y Duende show on Friday and Saturday nights.prac_infoCuesta de San Gregorio 30 • 958 22 73 34 • Closed Mon–Tue

10. Pena El Taranto, Almeria

For lovers of real flamenco without tourist kitsch, this is the best place in the city (for further details see Peña El Taranto, Almería).

Tearooms and Tapas Bars

1. La Teteria del Banuelo, Granada

A more relaxed and inviting place is hard to imagine. The little rooms and intimate niches are suffused with a gentle light, the air with the aromas of tea and flowers and the sound of songbirds. Try some exotic brews and sweets and enjoy unsurpassed views.prac_infoC/Bañuelo 5

2. Kasbah, Granada

Relax amid the comforts of this candlelit café. Silky pillows and romantic nooks abound. You can try Arab pastries and a selection of Moroccan teas.prac_infoC/Calderería Nueva 4

3. Bar La Buenavida, Granada

Welcoming tapas bar with a good variety of wines and beers. There’s a free tapa with each drink, so you can sample a wide variety of delectable treats without breaking the bank.prac_infoC/Almiceros 12

4. La Esquinita, Granada

Small, atmospheric and sometimes claustrophobic. A speciality here is fried fish.prac_infoCampo del Príncipe

5. Antigua Bodega Castaneda, Granada

Rows of antique wine barrels create the atmosphere here. The cheese boards are a good bet, as well as montaditos (small open sandwiches).prac_infoC/Elvira 5

6. Casa Enrique, Granada

This is another wonderfully old-fashioned hole-in-the-wall lined with antique barrels. Try the montaditos de lomo (little sandwiches with pork fillet) and torta del casar (soft goat’s cheese).prac_infoC/Acero de Darro 8

7. Teteria Al Hammam Almeraya, Almeria

Escape from the crowds of the town centre and head for the tranquil tearoom of Almería’s Arab baths, where you can enjoy Moorish-inspired teas and snacks.prac_infoC/Perea 9 • Closed Tue

8. Bodega Francisco, Almunecar

A forest of ham shanks hanging from the ceiling greets the eye, along with barrels of fino behind the bar in this traditional tapas bar. The attached restaurant next door, Francisco II, serves full meals.prac_infoC/Real 14

9. Casa Puga, Almeria

One of the city’s best tapas bars. The wine list is exhaustive, as you might guess from the many wine racks on view.prac_infoC/Jovellanos 7

10. El Quinto Toro, Almeria

The name derives from the tradition that the best bull of a corrida is chosen to fight in the fifth (quinto) confrontation of the day. This tapas bar is favoured by local aficionados of the bullfight.prac_infoJuan Leal 6

Restaurants

1. Cunini, Granada

The fresh seafood, brought in daily from Motril, is highly recommended. It’s a big hit with the food critics – so it must be good.prac_infoPlaza Pescadería 14 • 958 25 07 77 • Closed Sun D, Mon • €30–€40

2. Arrayanes, Granada

The most authentic and sophisticated of the North African restaurants in the little Moroccan quarter. Only halal meat is served, and no alcohol.prac_infoCuesta Marañas 4 • 958 22 84 01 • Closed Tue • €20–€30

3. Mirador de Aixa, Granada

With its position at the top of the Albaicín there are views of the Alhambra from the terrace. The food, too, is an adventure in local culture, featuring recipes such as habas con jamón (broad beans with ham).prac_infoCarril de San Agustín 2 • 958 22 36 16 • €40–€50

4. Restaurante El Ventorro, Alhama de Granada

In this lovely rural restaurant you can try choto al ajillo (kid cooked with garlic) and bacalao con naranja (cod with oranges).prac_infoCtra de Jatar, km2 • 958 85 85 33 • Closed Mon • €20–€30

5. Restaurante Gonzalez, Trevelez

In this famous ham town you’ll get what you came for – the dining room is hung with legs of meat.prac_infoPlaza Francisco Abellán • 958 85 85 33 • under €20

6. El Chaleco, Almunecar

French cuisine, lovingly prepared with great attention to detail, is served in a romantic, intimate setting.prac_infoAvda Costa del Sol 37 • 958 63 24 02 • Closed Sun D, Mon (except Jul & Aug) • €30–€40

7. La Tartana, La Herradura

With a terrace bar overlooking the sea, a piano bar and live flamenco, this restaurant has something for everyone. The menu includes international fusion cuisine.prac_infoLa Tartana Hotel, Urbanización San Nicolas • 958 64 05 35 • €30–€40

8. Pesetas, Salobrena

Absorb the ambience of the old quarters of Salobreña and the excellent views of the coast while dining here. The choco a la marinera (squid in tomato sauce) is a speciality. prac_infoC/Bóveda 11 • 958 61 01 82 • €20–€30

9. Restaurante Valentin, Almeria

Specialities include arroz negro (rice in squid ink) and pescado en adobo (clay-baked fish).prac_infoC/Tenor Iribarne 19 • 950 26 44 75 • Closed Mon, Sep • €40–€50

10. La Goleta, San Miguel del Cabo de Gata

All the seafood is at its freshest here, of course, since this village is located right in the middle of Andalucía’s most unspoilt coast.prac_infoBeachfront • 950 37 02 15 • Closed Nov & Mondays, Dec–May • €20–€30

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