The Setup Menu contains a series of settings for basic camera configuration that are not directly related to taking pictures. It covers things like Monitor brightness, battery information, firmware version, the default language, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, smart device connectivity, and many other basic settings. Here is a look at the Setup Menu location (figure 10.1).
The settings in the Setup Menu are most likely the first ones you’ll configure when you prepare your new Nikon Z6. You’ll have to set the Time zone and date, Language, and Copyright information—for embedding in the metadata of your pictures—among many other things.
Following is a list of the 34 functions available in the Setup Menu:
Let’s examine each of these settings in detail.
Format memory card allows you to prepare the inserted memory card for use in your camera. Formatting is the best way to prepare a memory card, and it should be done in-camera before using a brand-new card and after images have been transferred. Let’s see how to format a card.
Use the following steps to format a memory card:
Settings Recommendation: It is likely best to format each new memory card in the camera before using it for the first time. Some people format their cards in their computers, but that may not be a good idea. Formatting from some computer operating systems may differ from the format used by the camera. Therefore, it is much safer to format the card in-camera only.
Memory Card Information, Error Prevention, and Recovery
Memory card types: The Z6 has one XQD memory card slot, which will soon be compatible with CFexpress memory cards (from a future camera firmware update) if Nikon follows through on its promise to update the camera. XQD and CFexpress cards use the same form factor. While XQD cards are blazingly fast, CFexpress cards are even faster—if the camera’s internal hardware can make use of the extra speed, which is yet to be seen.
Accidental formatting: If you accidentally format a memory card that has unsaved images on it, all is not lost. Formatting doesn’t actually remove any images from the card. Instead, it removes their entries in the memory card’s file allocation table (FAT) so the pictures can no longer be seen or found by the camera. However, you can use card recovery software to rescue most of the pictures if you do not write anything new to the card after you format it. That’s a good thing to remember in case you ever accidentally format a card with images you wanted to keep.
Recovering images from a failed card: In the case of errors and card failures, the manufacturer of your chosen memory card brand usually has a free image recovery utility you can download to your computer. For instance, Sony has recovery software called “Memory Card File Rescue Software” and Lexar provides “Lexar Image Rescue.” Google your card’s brand name followed by “memory card recovery software.” Search YouTube for videos on how to use the software. There are also several aftermarket memory card recovery products available. However, you should do some research before downloading any old image recovery software you find; there are many scammers on the Internet. Stick with companies you know or get a recommendation from your fellow photographers on Nikonians.org!
Individual image deletion: It is not a good idea to delete individual images from your memory card after you have taken them. This can cause future images to become fragmented as the camera tries to make good use of card memory by overwriting old images. If a new larger image cannot fit into the space of a smaller deleted image, the camera will write part of the image to where the smaller image was located, and then write another part of the image elsewhere. If you have a card problem and the images are fragmented, it is much harder to recover the images with image recovery software. It is better to leave all the image files on the card until you transfer them to your computer and then delete the unwanted images there.
Overfilling a memory card: It may not be a good idea to regularly fill up a memory card to the point where the camera can no longer write an image. Memory cards need a little overhead for error provisioning. Most memory cards have some extra space already allocated for error provisioning; however, that space may be gradually used up as the card ages and sectors are marked as bad by the card manager chip. If you have been using a memory card for a while and you regularly fill it up, the card may suddenly fail with no warning because it has run out of room for error provisioning. This is rare, but why take a chance?
Memory card life span: Please remember that memory cards have a certain life span. This is even more important on Z cameras with a single card slot. While a memory card’s lifespan may well be several years, as a card ages it becomes more prone to errors and failure. For important shoots, think carefully about using memory cards that are several years old. While you may get by with it for a while, one day you may have a card failure for the simple reason that the card has no more room for sector errors and subsequently self-destructs. I replace my memory cards at least every two years.
Save user settings allows you to save up to three user settings. Later you can recall those settings by selecting U1, U2, or U3 from the Mode dial. Each user setting can save most configuration preferences in the Photo Shooting Menu, Movie Shooting Menu, and Custom Setting Menu, along with other specific camera settings. The following lists include items that can and cannot be saved:
Items that can be saved
Items that cannot be saved
Now let’s examine how to save a user setting. Use the following steps to save one of the three user settings (U1, U2, or U3). This must be repeated for each of the settings:
Settings Recommendation: Anytime you make a modification to one of the two Shooting Menus or the Custom Setting Menu that you want to reuse, be sure to resave it under one of the user settings. If you are making a temporary change, it isn’t important to save it. The user settings will not change unless you resave them. However, if you want to save a particular configuration for future reuse, just set the camera up the way you want to shoot and save the configuration under one of the user settings. Later, you can retrieve that configuration by simply selecting U1, U2 or U3 on the Mode dial.
Reset user settings allows you to reset one of the camera’s user settings back to the factory defaults. The three user settings—U1, U2 and U3—are independent of each other and must be reset individually. If you have a preowned Z6, it is a good idea to reset all three user settings. That way, the user settings are fresh and ready to be configured for your styles of shooting.
Here’s how to reset one of your camera’s user settings. Repeat these steps for each user setting:
Settings Recommendation: If you bought a used Nikon Z6, why not reset the user settings? That way you can reconfigure the camera to your own styles of shooting. Anytime you want to start over with the Photo Shooting Menu, Movie Shooting Menu, or Custom Settings Menu, be sure to reset the user settings and resave after each reconfiguration.
Language is a function that lets the camera know what language you prefer for the camera’s menus, screens, and messages. The Z6 can display its screens and menus in four languages (firmware C2.00).
Use the following steps to select your preferred Language:
Settings Recommendation: The camera should come preconfigured for the main language that is spoken where you live. If you prefer a different one, use this setting to select it.
Time zone and date allows you to configure the Time zone, Date and time, Date format, and Daylight saving time settings for your camera.
Let’s examine how to set the various parts of Time zone and date. You may have already done this when you first received your camera. We discussed this briefly in the first chapter.
The Time zone screen for setting the local time zone displays a familiar world map from which you will select the area of the world where you live. Figure 10.6A shows the Time zone configuration screens. The camera displays some major city names and the coordinated universal time (UTC) below the Time zone map (image 3), in case you don’t recognize your location.
Use the following steps to set the Time zone:
Figure 10.6B shows the Date and time configuration screens. The final screen allows you to select the year, month, and day (Y, M, D), and the hour, minute, and second (H, M, S).
Use the following steps to set the Date and time:
Note: The Z6 uses a 24-hour internal clock instead of the 12-hour clock most of us use. Therefore, to set the clock to 3:00 p.m., for example, you must set the H and M settings to 15:00.
If the clock has been reset due to a dead battery, you’ll see a tiny flashing clock-face indicator on the camera’s displays. It takes about two days of having a charged EN-EL15/a/b battery in the camera to fully charge the built-in clock battery. When the clock battery is fully charged, the clock will remain active without a main camera battery for up to one month.
Date format gives you three different ways to format the camera’s date, as follows:
Here are the steps to set the Date format:
Some areas of the world observe daylight saving time. On a specified day in spring of each year, many people set their clocks forward by one hour. Then in the fall they set them back, leading to the clever saying “spring forward, fall back.”
If you set Daylight saving time to On, the camera will move the time forward by one hour. In the fall, you will need to remember to change this setting to Off so that the camera will move the time back again. Otherwise, the time stamp on your images will be off by one hour for half the year.
Here are the steps to enable or disable Daylight saving time:
Settings Recommendation: This series includes the first settings you’ll modify when you get a brand-new Z6 camera. It is important that all these items are set correctly because this information is written into the metadata of each image you make. Daylight saving time is optional, but if you use it, you must remember to change it in the fall and spring of each year so your camera’s time will match the local time. I have a reminder set up on my smartphone so that I won’t forget. When you are setting all of your clocks and watches for the semi-annual time change, just remember to set your camera’s internal clock, too.
Monitor brightness is more important than many people realize. If the Monitor is too dim, you’ll have trouble seeing your images in bright light. If it is too bright, you might allow some images to be underexposed because they look fine on the Monitor. Even a seriously underexposed image may look okay on a screen that is too bright. The same goes for video capture.
Additionally, you may need to adjust the Monitor brightness when you are viewing menus or the Information display in bright sunlight or for night shooting. Keeping the Monitor at the right brightness level can be very useful.
The Z6 allows you to adjust the brightness of the Monitor manually. You can select from 10 levels of brightness, varying from −5 to +5.
Use the following steps to adjust the brightness of the camera Monitor:
Note: This function does not affect the exposure of the image. It applies only to the brightness of the Monitor. However, an overly bright or dim Monitor may cause you to adjust the exposure in a detrimental way. Be careful!
Settings Recommendation: I generally leave Monitor brightness set to the +1 setting to allow a tiny bit of extra light for my aging eyes. If you choose to set your camera to a level brighter or dimmer than 0, be sure to check the live histogram (page 68) to validate your exposures. Otherwise, you may find that you are mildly under- or overexposing images because they look fine on the Monitor due to the brightness changes. Learn to use the live histogram for the best pictures!
Monitor color balance is a function that allows you to control the tint of the camera’s Monitor. If you feel the Monitor has, let’s say, a greenish tint, you can add a little bit of a complementary color to change the color to one that is more acceptable to you.
The effect is not extremely strong, so you will not make your Monitor look garish with this function. However, the color tinting is strong enough that you can overcome any tint you perceive on the Monitor.
This effect does not change the color of your images in any way. It tints the color of the Monitor only, allowing you to balance it against other known color sources.
To balance the Monitor’s color, you should have an image on the Monitor that best reflects your style of photography. That way, once you adjust the colors, you will see what pleases your eye for your main style of picture making.
Use the following steps to choose an appropriate sample picture and color balance your Monitor:
Settings Recommendation: Since I do not often adjust images in-camera, I will not be influenced by the way the Monitor looks. I mostly use the Monitor to make composition choices and to check the histogram. I think the Monitor on my Z6 is excellent the way it is and have little need for this Monitor color balance function.
However, if I were shooting in a studio, with carefully controlled lighting, and needed to do careful color matching for a product shot, I might be more concerned about Monitor color balance.
Similar to Monitor brightness, Viewfinder (EVF) brightness is important. If the EVF is too dim, you may accidentally overexpose your images. If it is too bright, you might allow some images to be underexposed because they look fine in the EVF. Even a seriously underexposed image may look okay on an EVF that is too bright. The same goes for video capture.
The Z6 allows you to adjust the brightness of the EVF manually. You can select from 10 levels of brightness, varying from −5 to +5. Or you can allow the camera to automatically adjust the brightness according to the ambient light level with the Auto mode.
Use the following steps to adjust the brightness of the EVF:
Note: This function does not affect the exposure of the image. It applies only to the brightness of the EVF. However, an overly bright or dim EVF may cause you to adjust the exposure in a detrimental way. Be careful!
Settings Recommendation: I set the Viewfinder brightness to +1 because the EVF seems a little too dark for me at 0. I like the little extra brightness that +1 gives me. You may not need it.
If you choose to set your EVF to a level brighter or dimmer than 0, be sure to check the live histogram (page 68) and validate your exposures. Otherwise, you may find that you are mildly under- or overexposing images because they look fine on the EVF due to the brightness changes. Learn to use the live histogram for the best pictures!
Viewfinder color balance is a function that allows you to control the tint of the camera’s Viewfinder (EVF). If you feel the EVF has, let’s say, a bluish tint, you can add a little bit of a complementary color to change the color to one that is more acceptable to you. The effect is not extremely strong, so you will not make your EVF look garish with this function. However, the color tinting is strong enough that you can overcome any tint you perceive in the EVF.
This effect does not change the color of your images in any way. It only tints the color of the EVF, allowing you to balance it against other known color sources.
To balance the EVF color, you should have an image on the EVF that best reflects your style of photography. That way, once you adjust the colors, you will see what pleases your eye for your main style of picture making.
Use the following steps to color balance the camera’s EVF:
Settings Recommendation: I mostly use the EVF to make composition choices, to preview the color and contrast of the subject, and to check the histogram for good exposure. I think the color balance of the EVF on my Z6 is excellent the way it is, and I have little need for this Viewfinder color balance function.
However, if I were shooting in a studio with carefully controlled lighting and needed to do careful color matching for a product shot, I might be more concerned about Viewfinder color balance.
The Control panel on top of the camera gives basic information about settings, including items such as shutter speed, aperture, battery charge, ISO sensitivity, Release mode, and remaining image capacity for the memory card.
The Control panel brightness function lets you control the brightness of this useful little OLED Control panel. Most of us will leave the brightness function set to Auto so that the camera can adjust the Control panel brightness according to ambient light conditions. However, the camera allows you to adjust the brightness manually if you’d like. You can select a brightness level in a range from 1 to 7, or even turn it Off. Let’s see how to adjust the Control panel brightness.
Use the following steps to change the brightness settings for the Control panel on top of the camera:
Settings Recommendation: I leave the Control panel brightness set to Auto for my Z6. I don’t use the Control panel on this camera nearly as much as I did with my Nikon DSLRs, but it still comes in handy for a quick look at or selection of important settings.
If you are doing night photography, would like to save battery power, or just don’t need the Control panel, you can turn it off. If you need to make it very dim or very bright, then you can control the brightness manually.
Limit monitor mode selection allows you to choose which modes are available when you press the Monitor mode button on the side of the camera’s Viewfinder (figure 10.12A, image 3, red arrow).
Here is a description of the four available modes, followed by how to enable or disable individual modes:
Use the following steps to limit which Monitor modes your camera will offer you when you press the Monitor mode button:
Settings Recommendation: I normally leave the mode set to Automatic display switch for convenience. When I am out doing a walkabout, I may use Prioritize viewfinder, which makes the Monitor stay off except for displaying an image after I take it. I rarely use the Monitor only or Viewfinder only settings. However, I leave them available in case I need them.
The Eye sensor is very sensitive. I was taking pictures on a rainy day in the mountains and a pinhead-sized rain droplet got on the sensor. The camera then refused to use the rear Monitor. I thought my new camera was ruined from being too wet, but then I noticed the tiny droplet, removed it, and all was well.
I shot for several hours in a light rain, occasionally wiping the camera off with a lens cleaning cloth. The camera performed flawlessly (see figure 10.12B). Just keep dust and water droplets off the little dark rectangle at the top of the Viewfinder opening—that’s the Eye sensor location.
The Information display setting allows your camera to automatically sense how much ambient light there is in the area where you are shooting and adjust the color and brightness of the Information display screen accordingly. If the ambient light is bright, the color of the physical Information display screen will also be bright so that it can overcome the ambient light.
To open the Information display screen, press the DISP button multiple times until the Information display appears (figure 10.13A). Once you see the Information display, pressing the i button will bring up the i menu at the bottom of the screen, with the Information display at the top. The Information display screen shows the current shooting information: shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and frame count, plus the 12 items that are adjustable on the i menu.
In the Light on dark screen shown in figure 10.13A, I brightened the screen’s gray text considerably so that it is clear in the printed book. In real life it is dimmer than shown here to allow you to keep your night vision.
Use the following steps to configure the Information display:
Settings Recommendation: I leave Information display set to Dark on light for normal use. However, when I am doing night photography, the much dimmer Light on dark setting protects my night vision.
The AF fine-tune function allows you to manually adjust your camera to a particular lens so the lens focuses where you want it to focus.
Nikon has made provisions for keeping a table of up to 30 lenses fine-tuned for better focus. The idea behind fine-tuning is that you can push the focus forward or backward in small increments, with up to 20 increments in each direction (−20 to +20).
Once you have fine-tuned the autofocus system for a particular lens, the actual focus is moved from its default position forward or backward by the amount you’ve specified in the fine-tuning operation. If your lens has a consistent back focus problem and you move the focus a little forward, the problem is solved.
First let’s see how to access the fine-tuning system, and then we will examine each of its four subsettings in detail (figure 10.14A, image 2).
Use the following steps to start the process of fine-tuning a lens (figure 10.14A):
Figure 10.14B shows the AF fine-tune (On/Off) screen and its selections. The two values you can select are as follows:
With an autofocus lens mounted, Saved value allows you to control the amount of front or back focus fine-tuning you would like to input for the listed lens. At the top left of figure 10.14C, image 2, just under the words Saved value, you’ll see the focal length of the lens that is mounted on the camera, the aperture range (F4), and the number assigned to the lens. If you’re configuring a lens for the first time, you’ll see NO. – –. You can fine-tune a maximum of 30 lenses. After you save a lens configuration, a lens number will appear in place of the dashes (NO. 0 to NO. 99). We’ll discuss how to assign a lens a certain number between 0 and 99 shortly.
To the right of the lens information is a scale that runs from +20 on the top to −20 on the bottom. The yellow pointer on the right starts out at 0. You can move this yellow pointer up or down to change the amount of focus fine-tuning you need for this lens. Moving the pointer up on the scale pushes the focal point away from the camera, and moving it down pulls the focal point toward the camera. I set my Nikkor Z 24–70mm F/4 S lens to +5 forward focus, as shown in figure 10.14C, image 2. When you set the fine-tuning amount you need, press or touch OK to save it.
The Default configuration screen looks a lot like the Saved value screen, except no lens information is listed. This Default value will be applied to all AF lenses you mount on your camera. If you are convinced that your particular camera (not a lens) always has a back or front focus problem and you are not able or ready to ship it off to Nikon for repair, you can use the Default value to push the autofocus in one direction or the other until you are satisfied that your camera is focusing the way you’d like. Again, this will affect all autofocus lenses you mount on your camera.
As shown in figure 10.14D, image 2, to set an AF fine-tune > Default value, use the scale that runs from +20 on the top to −20 on the bottom. The yellow pointer starts at 0. You can move this yellow pointer up or down to change the amount of focus fine-tuning you need for every autofocus lens you will mount on the Z6, if no value already exists in the Saved value for a particular lens (Saved value overrides Default).
Moving the pointer up on the scale pushes the focal point away from the camera (front focus), and moving it down pulls the focal point toward the camera (back focus). When you are done, press or touch OK. Be careful with this setting. Most people will not use it because it applies an AF fine-tune value to any AF lens mounted on the camera, whether that lens needs fine-tuning or not.
Note: You could use this Default value as a value for any of your AF lenses that do not have a Saved value. I tested this with a different lens (not shown) by setting a Saved value of +1 for my AF-S Nikkor 24–120mm lens. While the 24–120mm lens was still mounted, I set a value of −2 for the Default value. When I removed the 24–120mm lens and mounted an AF Nikkor 60mm micro lens, the +1 in the Saved value field disappeared, but the −2 in the Default field stayed put. So it appears that you can use the Default field either for all AF lenses that have no Saved value or for a currently mounted AF lens that you want to adjust but not save a value for.
Notice in figure 10.14E that there are several screens used to configure the list of saved values. List saved values helps you remember which lenses you’ve fine-tuned. It allows you to set an identification number (00–99) for a particular lens out of the 20 lenses you can register.
In figure 10.14E, image 2, you can see my 24–70mm F/4 lens listed (24–70/4). This List saved values screen will show a list of all the lenses for which you have saved values—my camera just happens to have saved values for only one lens.
Some photographers use the last two digits of a lens’s serial number as the Saved value identification number for that lens. Use the screen shown in figure 10.14E, image 3, to select any number from 00 to 99. Scroll up or down with the Multi selector pad or tap the up/down pointers on the screen to change the number in the yellow box.
You will see the results of this change when you examine the Saved value screen, as shown in figure 10.14F, image 2. Instead of NO. – –, the screen in image 2 now reports NO. 1 (compare to figure 10.14C, image 2).
You can have up to 30 lenses listed on the List saved values screen (figure 10.14E, image 2), with each lens having a different number from 00 to 99.
Settings Recommendation: AF fine-tune is good to have. If I buy a new lens and it has focus problems, I don’t keep it. Back it goes to the manufacturer for a replacement. However, if I buy a used lens or have had one long enough to go out of warranty and it later develops front or back focus problems, the camera allows me to fine-tune the autofocus for that lens.
Non-CPU lens data helps you use older non-CPU Nikkor lenses with your camera. Do you still have several older AI or AI-S Nikkor lenses? I do! The image quality from the older manual focus (MF) lenses is excellent.
Since the Z6 is positioned as an advanced enthusiast and pro camera, it must have the necessary controls to use both auto focus (AF) and manual focus (MF) lenses. Many photographers on a budget use the older MF lenses on a Nikon FTZ adapter to obtain professional-level image quality without having to break the bank on expensive lens purchases. You can buy excellent AI and AI-S Nikkor MF lenses on eBay for $100–$400, and with them you can achieve image quality that only the most expensive autofocus lenses can produce. Additionally, with all the aftermarket lens adapters currently available for the Z-camera line, MF lenses of all sorts and brands are available for photographers who like to experiment with non-Nikon lenses.
It’s important to have a way to let the Z6 know something about the lens in use. This Non-CPU lens data function allows you to do exactly that. You can store information for up to 20 separate non-CPU lenses within this section of the Z6.
Here is an analysis of the Non-CPU lens data screen selections (figure 10.15A, image 2):
Use the following steps to configure (save) each of your non-CPU lenses for use with your Z6:
The screen shown in figure 10.15A, image 2, allows you to either select a lens or save changes to one or all 20 of your lenses. In other words, you can use the set of screens in figure 10.15A to both input and select a non-CPU lens.
When you have selected a lens for use, the Setup Menu > Non-CPU lens data selection will show the number of the lens you’ve selected. It will be in the format of No. 1 to No. 20. In figure 10.15A, image 1, you can see the lens selection (No. 1) at the end of the Non-CPU lens data line. That’s my beloved AI Nikkor 35mm f/2 lens!
As we discussed in the previous chapter, the Z6 allows you to customize several of its buttons and controls with various options, one of which allows you to select a non-CPU lens.
If you frequently use several manual-focus non-CPU lenses, you can use the Custom Setting Menu to assign the setting called Choose non-CPU lens number to one of the camera’s buttons (Custom Setting Menu > f Controls > f2 Custom control assignment; page 423). This will allow you to select Non-CPU lens data very quickly. You hold down the assigned button (e.g., Fn1, Fn2) and turn either of the Command dials to select one of the 20 non-CPU lenses you have registered with the camera.
To select a non-CPU lens using external camera controls (after making an assignment to one of the camera’s buttons), hold down the button you’ve assigned (e.g., Movie record button) and turn either Command dial until the number of your lens is highlighted in yellow (No. 1 to No. 20; figure 10.15B), then release the button. Now your camera knows which lens is mounted. The focal length and maximum aperture (e.g., 200mm F4) of the selected non-CPU lens will appear at the top of the screen.
Using the FTZ Adapter with Non-CPU Lenses
Because the FTZ adapter does not have an aperture indexing prong and cannot manually connect to a lens, the Z6 has no way to know which aperture the camera is using with non-CPU lenses. If you examine the internal metadata of an image you have taken with a non-CPU lens, using the camera’s Overview screen (page 148), you will notice that the camera registers only the maximum aperture of the non-CPU lens—the one you previously entered—and not the actual aperture you used to take the picture. This is because the camera has no idea which aperture you have selected. In fact, you will notice that the top Control panel, EVF, and Monitor will be flashing “F– –“ the entire time you have a non-CPU lens mounted. The Z7/Z6 User’s Manual lists this as an error (page 164); however, in this case it simply means the camera cannot determine which aperture is in use. Ignore the flashing “F– –“ and use stop-down metering with assistance from the live histogram (page 68) to obtain an accurate exposure. If you have favorite non-CPU lenses that you want to use frequently, you can find a company that will add a CPU chip to a non-CPU lens so that it will pass aperture information. Using focus Peaking (page 409) with non-CPU lenses will help you achieve excellent manual focus.
Clean image sensor is Nikon’s helpful answer to dust spots on your images that are due to a dirty imaging sensor. Dust is everywhere and will eventually get on your camera’s sensor. The Z6 cleans the sensor by vibrating the entire sensor unit. These high-frequency vibrations will hopefully dislodge dust and make it fall off the filter so you won’t see it as spots on your pictures.
The vibration cleaning method seems to work pretty well. Of course, if sticky pollen or other moist dust gets into the camera, the vibration system won’t be able to remove it. Then it may be time for brush or wet cleaning.
Clean now allows you to clean the imaging sensor at any time. If you detect a dust spot, or just get nervous because you are in a dusty environment with your Z6, you can simply select Clean now and the camera will execute a sensor cleaning cycle.
Use the following steps to clean the camera’s sensor immediately:
Now, let’s examine how to select an active method for regular sensor cleaning.
For preventive dust control, some photographers set their cameras to clean the sensor at shutdown. There are two selections for Automatic cleaning:
These settings are self-explanatory. I find it interesting that I don’t detect any shutdown delay when using Clean at shutdown mode. I can turn my camera on and immediately take a picture. The cleaning cycle seems to be very brief, or at least interruptible, in this mode.
Use the following steps to enable or disable Automatic cleaning:
Nikon suggests that you hold the camera at the same angle as when you are taking pictures (bottom down) when you use these modes to clean the sensor.
Settings Recommendation: I leave my camera set to Clean at shutdown. That way it will do a cleaning cycle every time I turn the camera off. It doesn’t seem to slow down shooting; I can still turn on the camera and immediately begin taking photographs. A little sensor cleaning in this dusty world seems like a good idea to me.
You may go out and do an expensive shoot only to return and find that some dust spots have appeared in the worst possible places in your images. If you immediately create an Image Dust Off ref photo, you can use it to remove the dust spots from a series of images, and then you can clean the camera’s sensor for your next shooting session.
When you use the following instructions to create the Image Dust Off ref photo, you’ll be shooting a blank, unfocused picture of a pure white or gray background. The dust spots in the image will then be readily apparent to Nikon Capture NX-D software. Yes, you must use Nikon’s free software to automatically batch-remove dust spots from a large number of images.
When you load the image(s) to be cleaned into Capture NX-D, along with the Image Dust Off ref photo, the software will use the Image Dust Off ref photo to automatically remove the dust spots in your pictures.
The position and amount of dust on the sensor may change. You should take Image Dust Off ref photos regularly and use one that was taken within one day of the photographs you wish to clean up.
First, you’ll need to select a featureless subject to make a photograph for the Image Dust Off ref photo. The key is to use a material that has no graininess, such as a bright, well-lit white card. I tried using plain white sheets of paper held up to a bright window, but the resulting reference photo was unsatisfactory to Capture NX-D. It gave me a message that my reference photo was too dusty when I tried to use it.
After some experimentation, I finally settled on three different subjects that seem to work well:
All of these were bright and featureless enough to satisfy both my camera and Capture NX-D. The key is to photograph something fairly bright, but not too bright. You may need to experiment with different subjects if you don’t have a light table or computer.
Now, let’s prepare the camera for the actual reference photo.
Here are the steps you’ll use to create an Image Dust Off ref photo:
To store the reference photo for later use in removing spots, copy the NDF file (figure 10.17C) from your camera’s memory card to the computer folder containing the images that have dust spots on them, the ones for which you created this Image Dust Off ref photo. You can use the Image Dust Off function (figure 10.17D) in Nikon Capture NX-D to remove the dust spots from all of the images represented by the Image Dust Off ref photo.
In figure 10.17D, the red-rimmed cutout in the middle is an enlargement of the Window > Edit > Camera and Lens Corrections window in the control bar on the right side of Capture NX-D version 1.5.0.
Here are the steps to use the Image Dust Off functions in Nikon Capture NX-D to remove dust from a group of images, using an Image Dust Off ref photo (figure 10.17D):
Settings Recommendation: Nikon Capture NX-D is free, and it’s a good form of insurance, even if you use it for nothing more than removing dust from your images. Whenever you find yourself out in nature or shooting in an environment that might be dusty, why not create an Image Dust Off ref photo as the last photo of the day? That dust off photo may save you a lot of dust removal work. Let Capture NX-D do it for you!
Additionally, Nikon has recently added the “color control points” back into the Capture software. Many of us used those powerful control points in Nikon Capture NX-2 to selectively post-process exact areas of the image. When Nikon stopped supporting Capture NX-2 and brought out NX-D instead, the color control points were missing. Well, with version 1.5.0 of Capture NX-D, the powerful color control points are back! Download the free Nikon Capture NX-D at the following website:
http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/162/Capture_NX-D.html
If for some reason the URL doesn’t work, just Google “Download Nikon Capture NX-D” and I’m sure you will find it.
White Card Tip
Remember, all your camera needs to create an Image Dust Off ref photo is a good look at its imaging sensor so it can map the dust spots into an NDF file (ref photo file). If you get the warning screen shown in figure 10.17B that says exposure settings are not appropriate, change the exposure settings and try again with a nice bright, clean, white surface. Put the lens very close to the surface, and make sure it is not in focus. Nikon recommends less than 4 inches (10 cm). You might even want to manually set the lens to infinity if you are having problems with this. When you’ve found your favorite white or gray surface for Image Dust Off ref photos, keep it safe and use it consistently.
Image comment is a useful setting that allows you to attach a 36-character comment to each image you shoot. The comment is embedded in the picture’s internal metadata and does not show up on the image itself. I attach the comment “Photo by Darrell Young” to my images.
You could include your copyright here, even though the camera has a place to put Copyright information (see the next section), or you could insert a comment with some details about the picture series.
Use the following steps to create an Image comment:
Settings Recommendation: You can use this comment field for any text you want to add to the internal metadata of the image (up to 36 characters). There is another Setup Menu selection called Copyright information (see the next section) that allows you to add your personal copyright. I added basic “who took it” information here because I am worried about image theft. You may want to add other text—since the camera provides a specific Copyright information screen—such as information to identify the shoot. Remember, you are limited to 36 characters in the comment.
Copyright information allows you to embed Artist and Copyright data into each image. Refer to figure 10.19 and use the following steps to add personal information to your camera. Your Artist name and Copyright information will then be written into the metadata of each of your images, but is not visible on the image itself.
Here are the steps to enter your Artist and Copyright information:
Settings Recommendation: Be sure to add your name in both the Artist and Copyright sections of this function. With so much intellectual property theft going on these days, it’s a good idea to identify each of your images as your own. Otherwise, you may post an image on Instagram or Facebook to share with friends and later find it on a billboard along the highway. With the Artist and Copyright information embedded in the image metadata, you will be able to prove that the image is yours and charge the infringer.
Embedding your personal information is not a foolproof way to identify your images because unscrupulous people may steal them and strip the metadata out of them. However, if you do find one of your images on the front page of a magazine or on someone’s website, you can at least prove that you took the image and have some legal recourse under the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). When you’ve taken a picture, you own the copyright to that image. You must be able to prove you took it. This is one convenient way.
You’ll have even more power to protect yourself if you register your images with the U.S. Copyright Registry at the following web address:
https://copyright.gov/registration/
If you sell your camera, or loan it to someone, be sure to remove the Artist and Copyright information to prevent misuse of your name. You can either remove it manually or use Setup Menu > Reset all settings, which resets all camera settings back to their factory defaults.
The Beep options setting allows your camera to make a beeping sound (if enabled) to alert you during the following events:
You can set the camera to beep with a high- or low-pitched tone, and you can adjust the volume of the beep—or you can turn the beep sound off. When Beep is active, you’ll see a little musical note displayed in the Information display on the Monitor, and of course, you will hear the camera beeping when you do the things in the list.
First let’s examine how to turn the Beep sound on or off. It defaults to Off in the Z6.
Use the following steps to enable or disable the camera’s beep sound:
Next let’s see how to change the volume of the beep, in case you need to use the beep sound.
Use the following steps to select one of the Beep Volume choices:
Next, let’s consider the screens and steps to select a pitch for the beep.
Use the following steps to select a Beep Pitch:
Settings Recommendation: I keep Beep turned Off on my Z6. If I were using my camera in a quiet area, why would I want it beeping and disturbing those around me? However, you might want the reassurance of hearing a beep when AF has been confirmed or when the Self-timer is counting down. If so, turn it on. The Self-timer lamp flashes during Self-timer operations, so I generally use that instead of Beep.
The Nikon Z6 has a convenient touch-control capability that lets you use your fingertip to enter the names of various items, select touch controls on the Monitor, swipe from one picture or video to another when viewing them on the Monitor, and press Play on displayed videos.
The Touch controls function allows you to enable or disable the touch-control feature, as well as set the swipe (flick) direction for when you are viewing pictures. Let’s examine how to configure the two parts of the Touch controls system.
Use the following steps to enable or disable the camera’s Touch controls system:
Settings Recommendation: I have been using the Touch controls system quite often as I work through the many functions it supports. I find it quite convenient when entering data, compared to fiddling around with physical buttons and pads.
The only gripe I have is that I would prefer a QWERTY keyboard layout instead of an alphabetical series of letters, just because I’m used to using that layout on my smartphone (texting). Why couldn’t Nikon make a keyboard that looks more like my iPhone’s keyboard, including the touch button locations and functionality, so that I (and you) don’t have to search for each character? Aren’t we all used to using tiny smartphone keyboards by now? Why have an Aa& touch button instead of ↑ and 123?
Otherwise, the Touch controls system works well and is easy to use. I think our smart cameras are finally joining the digital world, at least to some degree.
Use the following steps to change the direction of the swipe used to scroll through pictures:
Settings Recommendation: I’ve been scratching my head trying to figure out why someone would want the swipe (flick) to work in the opposite direction of what smartphone users have trained their muscle memory to expect. When I am swiping on my camera’s Monitor, I expect to see the next image by swiping from right to left, just like on my iPhone.
However, if you would prefer the swipe to work in the opposite direction, choosing Left→Right will fix you right up. Then, when you swipe right to left, the camera will display the previous picture instead of the next picture.
HDMI (high-definition multimedia interface) allows you to display your images and videos on a high-definition television (HDTV), external video monitor, or computer monitor with an HDMI connection. You can also use the HDMI port to stream clean, 4K, 10-bit, 4:2:2, N-Log video to an external video recording device, such as one of the recorders found on www.Atomos.com.
You’ll need an HDMI Type-A to HDMI Type-C cable, which is not included with the camera but is available from many electronics stores. This cable is also known as a mini-HDMI–to–HDMI A/V HD cable.
Figure 10.22A gives you a closeup look at both ends of the cable. The smaller end (mini-HDMI Type-C) goes into the HDMI port under the rubber flap on your camera, and the other end (HDMI Type-A) plugs into your HD device.
The HDMI setting has two options—Output resolution and Advanced—which we will discuss next.
You can select one of the following formats for output to your HDMI device, including external video recorders:
Use the following steps to select an Output resolution:
The Output resolution setting directly sets the HDMI output for an external recorder, such as a Ninja, Sumo, or Shogun by Atomos (www.Atomos.com). Older external Atomos video recorders, such as a Ninja-2, are limited to Full HD (1080p), whereas a newer Ninja V can record up to 4K UHD at 60 fps progressive (2160/60p). Currently, the Nikon Z6 is limited to 4K UHD at 30 fps progressive (2160/30p).
However, Output resolution does not affect the internal video recording capability of the camera, which ignores the HDMI Output resolution and instead relies on the resolution selected under Movie Shooting Menu > Frame size/frame rate or the i menu’s Frame size and rate/Image quality setting, when your camera’s Photo/movie selector switch is set to Movie.
The HDMI output you will use to send video to your external recorder has a default 30-second Power off delay to save battery charge, which means your camera will shut off after 30 seconds of recording, unless you extend the Power off delay. You should set the Standby timer (page 396) to a significantly longer timeout setting, such as 10 minutes, 30 minutes, or No limit.
Use the Custom Setting Menu > c Timers/AE lock > c3 Power off delay > Standby timer setting to lengthen the HDMI video stream timeout. Use a longer delay or No limit for the Standby timer setting.
What’s the difference between progressive and interlaced? Technically speaking, progressive video output displays the video frame starting with the top line and then draws the other lines until the entire frame is shown. The camera displays 2160 lines progressively from the top of what the imaging sensor captured to the bottom (lines 1, 2, 3, 4 . . . 2160).
Interlaced video output displays every even line from top to bottom, then comes back to the top and displays every odd line (lines 2, 4, 6, 8 . . . 2160; then 1, 3, 5, 7 . . . 2159).
Progressive output provides a higher-quality image with less flicker and a more cinematic look. Most of the HDMI Output resolution settings are for progressive output; however, Nikon has provided 1080i (interlaced) in case we need to use an interlaced output later.
With the large variety of display and external recording devices available, your camera has to deal with all sorts of video standards. Here is a brief list of the controls available for modifying the HDMI video output:
Let’s examine each setting on the Advanced menu in more detail.
Use the following steps to open the Advanced menu (figure 10.22C):
Output range allows you to adjust the level of colors sent to a recording or display device. When you are outputting video to a device, such as an HDTV or recorder, the device may not accept normal Full range RGB with a color range of 0 to 255 correctly. Some devices accept only Limited range RGB input in the range of 16 to 235 color levels (YCbCr). If you try to send Full range RGB video output to a Limited range YCbCr device, you may end up with washed-out, grayish blacks and blown-out, featureless whites.
The solution is to match the correct output to the correct device type. If you see the problems just described when the camera is set to Full range (RGB), try the Limited range (YCbCr) setting instead. Or, you could try the Auto setting to see if the camera can detect what the display or recording device requires.
Use the following steps to select Full range or Limited range output (figure 10.22D continues from figure 10.22C):
Settings Recommendation: Please spend some time familiarizing yourself with the features of this function. The Z6 camera has enhanced video output compared to its predecessors. Therefore, if you have not been fond of video with an HD-SLR in the past, you may want to reconsider now that you are using the mirrorless Nikon Z6. It’s a portable home movie studio, with full UHD (4K) commercial capabilities!
The External recording control setting allows you to control an Atomos external recorder (e.g., Ninja V) directly from your camera. You can start and stop recording on the external recorder by pressing the camera’s Movie record button when the Z6 and recorder are connected by an HDMI cable.
Let’s examine the Input tab on an Atomos Ninja V external recorder to see how to let the camera remotely control when the recorder starts and stops recording (figure 10.22E). We will need to set an HDMI Trigger.
Figure 10.22E: You must set the Trigger under the Input tab of the Atomos external recorder to HDMI. On the Atomos Ninja V external recorder screen shown in figure 10.22E, you will touch where the red arrow is pointing, multiple times, until HDMI appears. Make sure the little touch slider switch is set to On. Now, when you press the camera’s Movie record button, the external recorder will automatically start receiving and recording the HDMI video output from your camera. Make sure you have selected an appropriate HDMI Source Output resolution so that the external recorder will record at the correct video resolution (e.g., 720p, 1080p, 2160p, see figure 10.22B on page 509).
Now that we have looked at a Ninja V screen, and configured the HDMI Trigger, let’s discuss the screens you will see on your Z6 when you are using this feature.
The following paragraphs examine what the Movie recording symbols mean:
Figure 10.22F, image 1: There are several symbols you will see on your camera screen, according to how you are recording video. The Movie record screen will display a small standby (→STBY) symbol when the external recorder and camera are ready to start recording (figure 10.22E, image 1). Immediately to the left of the small →STBY symbol is a blank spot with no other symbols (compare to figure 10.22F, image 3, blue arrow). This is significant! The fact that there are no symbols, strangely enough, means that the camera is ready to send video to the external recorder and record video to the camera’s memory card, at the same time. This will make more sense when we discuss figure 10.22F, image 3. When you press the Movie record button on the top of the camera, the external recorder and memory card will record video, and the next screen (image 2) will show. There are some limitations when recording to both devices as the same time, as discussed in the note below.
Note: In this and future discussions of recording video to both an external recorder and the internal XQD card at the same time, please remember the following information: The internal XQD card cannot accept 10-bit video at 4K UHD (2160p) resolution (using firmware C1.02); therefore, recording to both an external recorder and the internal XQD card at the same time requires using a video resolution of 1080/30p or below only. The HDMI > Advanced > Output data depth setting (next subsection) can be set to 8-bit or 10-bit, and then the external recorder and internal XQD card will receive video at the chosen resolution. In other words, recording in 4K resolution (2160p) to both the external recorder and the XQD card is not possible with camera firmware C2.00. That could change with a firmware update.
Figure 10.22F, image 2: When you have started recording video by pressing the Movie record button, the camera will display two symbols. First you will see the REC symbol (blue arrow). This REC symbol means the camera is recording video to its XQD memory card. To the right of the blue arrow’s REC symbol, you will see a tiny recorder screen symbol with an arrow pointing at a smaller →REC symbol (red arrow). Where the blue arrow’s REC symbol means the camera is recording video, the red arrow’s →REC symbol means the external video recorder is now receiving video too, and should be recording it if the camera and the external recorder are connected properly.
Figure 10.22F, image 3: When you have the external recorder prepared to receive video, but have removed the camera’s XQD memory card to prevent recording to it too, you will see the symbols shown at the blue arrow. The top symbol is a REC symbol with a slash through it and the lower symbol is a red memory card symbol with a slash through it (blue arrow). These two symbols signify that the camera will not record video internally, but will send the video stream to the external recorder only, when you press the Movie record button. The →STBY symbol (red arrow) means that the camera is awaiting your command to start sending video to the external recorder and that the external recorder is awaiting the Movie record button press to Trigger (see figure 10.22E) the recording.
Figure 10.22F, image 4: When you have pressed the Movie record button, and thereby triggered the external recorder, the →REC symbol shown at the red arrow means that the camera is sending a video stream to the external video recorder through the HDMI port. The lack of the REC symbol means the internal XQD memory card is not receiving video.
Use the following steps to enable or disable the External recording control (figure 10.22G continues from figure 10.22C):
Settings Recommendation: If you own an Atomos external recorder, it is a good idea to turn the External recording control on. If you do not have an external recorder, you can leave it off and safely ignore this setting.
The Output data depth setting allows you to choose a bit depth for your video recordings. You can choose from 8-bit (16.7 million colors) or 10-bit (1.07 billion colors). The 10-bit 4K UHD (2160p) recording can be done with compatible external recorders only, such as the newer recorders in the Shogun, Ninja, or Sumo series by Atomos.
The camera’s internal memory card can accept 8-bit video in all resolutions, including 4K, but can accept 10-bit video only at resolutions of Full HD (1080/30p) or below. None of the 1080/120p, 1080/100p, or slow-motion settings are available for 10-bit either. Again, this is based on firmware C2.00, and 10-bit 4K video (and the other settings mentioned) could become available for recording to the XQD card if Nikon decides to update the camera’s firmware.
If you have 10-bit 4K selected, and you try to record to the XQD card when hooked up to an external recorder, the camera will disable video recording to the memory card. If you attempt to record 10-bit 4K directly to the XQD card alone, the Z6 will automatically switch to 8-bit recording, regardless of your having selected 10-bit.
Use the following steps to select 8-bit or 10-bit video recording (figure 10.22H continues from figure 10.22C):
N-Log setting causes the camera to output a low-contrast, high-dynamic-range HDMI video signal that preserves shadow and highlight detail. You will need to grade the video after the fact, making adjustments to color saturation and contrast in an app—such as Final Cut Pro or Adobe Premier Pro—until you are happy with how the video looks. Use N-Log only if you plan on grading the video later in a computer program. Otherwise, your video will appear washed out and will have pale colors.
In figure 10.22I you can see how the camera outputs a video signal with the Neutral Picture Control set (image 1), compared to using N-Log (image 2). These two screens were captured from the display of an Atomos Ninja V, with View assist (next subsection) enabled. Now let’s consider how to enable and disable N-Log.
Use the following steps to enable or disable N-Log, with the understanding that N-Log cannot currently be recorded to the XQD memory card (firmware C2.00), and instead must be output through the HDMI port to an external recorder (figure 10.22J continues from figure 10.22C):
The View assist setting provides a live preview of how N-Log setting affects a recorded video. The colors may differ slightly between the camera’s Monitor and the actual video. This is merely a preview and has no effect on the video recording. It is for informational purposes only, allowing you the opportunity to make adjustments.
Use the following steps to enable or disable View assist for a live preview of N-Log video (figure 10.22K continues from figure 10.22C):
Settings Recommendation: I enjoy the live preview aspect of View assist and leave it on when I am sending N-Log video to my Ninja V external recorder. If you have no external recorder you can safely leave this setting at Off.
The Location data function allows you to geotag your images with global positioning system (GPS) location data. It provides an easy-to-use interface for various GPS and smart devices.
Now when you shoot a spectacular travel image, you can rest assured that you’ll be able to find that exact spot next year. With the Nikon GP-1 or GP-1A GPS units (or an aftermarket brand), or your smart device using SnapBridge, the Z6 will record some or all of the following GPS information into the metadata of each image:
The Nikon Z6 allows you to pull GPS data from your smart device (e.g., your smartphone) and automatically embed that location information in the metadata of your image(s). To use the SnapBridge app to transfer GPS data to your Z6, the following services must be enabled:
On the Smart Device
On the Nikon Z6
Let’s examine how to enable Synchronize location data under SnapBridge so that you can embed location data in your images.
Use the following steps to enable location data synchronization between your smart device and the Z6:
The Bluetooth connection with SnapBridge will use additional battery power, so it’s a good idea to have extra batteries available when you’re using SnapBridge for GPS. Also, your smart device will use up its battery charge more quickly.
Warning: Please be aware that others can determine the location of your shared pictures when Synchronize location data is enabled. If you are taking family pictures, especially of children, and you use geotagged pictures, those who download the pictures from social media sites (e.g., Facebook, Instagram) can examine the image metadata and will be able to determine exactly where the picture was taken. Maybe it’s not a good idea to upload geotagged pictures of your kids, grandkids, or valuables if the pictures were taken at home.
Note: You may want to enable the Synchronize clocks setting (just above Synchronize location data on the SnapBridge screen shown in figure 10.23A, images 2 and 3). When the Synchronize clocks setting is enabled, the Z6 can embed time and date information received from the smart device for each picture taken.
Figure 10.23B shows the screens used to set the camera to stay on the entire time an external GPS is connected, or shut down after the Standby timer expires.
The Setup Menu > Location data setting also has a subsetting named Standby timer, which can override the use of the Standby timer setting in Custom Setting Menu > c Timers/AE lock > c3 Power off delay.
The Custom setting c3 Standby timer function is for all aspects of the camera. The Setup Menu’s Location data Standby timer subsetting applies only to an attached GPS unit. Enable or disable Setup Menu > Location data > Standby timer according to the information in the following list:
Here are the steps to configure the Standby timer delay:
When an external GPS unit is attached to your Z6, or the SnapBridge app and your camera are paired, with Synchronize location data enabled, the Position screen shows the GPS location data being detected by the camera (figure 10.23C). If your GPS unit is not attached to your camera, or SnapBridge is not communicating, the Position selection will be grayed out.
Use these steps to examine the Location data Position screen:
When the camera establishes communication with your GPS unit or SnapBridge, a couple of things will happen:
The Set clock from satellite function allows the Z6 to maintain accurate time by querying the GPS satellite to set the camera’s clock. If you use GPS a lot, you might want to leave this on. The clock in the Nikon Z6 is not as accurate as a wristwatch, for instance, and tends to lose accuracy more quickly. It’s a good idea to reset the camera’s clock from time to time. This is an easy way to accomplish that for GPS users.
Here are the steps to enable Set clock from satellite:
The GP1-CA10 cable will interface with Nikon cameras that have a 10-pin port on the body, including the following Nikon cameras: D200, D300, D300S, D500, D700, D800, D800E, D810, D850, D2X, D3, D3S, D3X, D4, D4S, and D5.
The GP-1 GPS unit also comes with a GP1-CA90 cable to interface with Nikon cameras, including the following models: D3xxx, D5xxx, D7xxx, D600, D610, D750, Df, Z7, and Z6. Therefore, it is a useful device for almost any of your Nikons.
You can also get an optional Nikon MC-DC2 remote release cable that plugs directly into the GP-1 GPS unit for hands-off, vibration-free photography. The MC-DC2 remote release cable can be used to fire the shutter on any Nikon DSLR that can interface with the GP-1 or GP-1A GPS unit. You can see the MC-DC2 remote release cable on the left side of the camera in figure 10.23F. It is plugged into the GP-1 GPS unit on the opposite side of where the GP1-CA90 cable plugs in. The mentioned cables are compatible with both the Nikon GP-1 and GP-1A GPS units.
Nikon GP-1 GPS satellite connection information: The rear LED light on the Nikon GP-1 GPS unit will blink red while the GPS is acquiring satellites; blink green when the GPS is locked onto two satellites; and shine solid green when the GPS is locked onto at least three satellites. Allow a few seconds for the GPS to acquire satellites when the camera has been turned off.
If you are a significant distance from where you last used the GP-1 GPS unit, it may require up to a minute or two to acquire a satellite lock. Once the GP-1 has a local satellite lock and you turn the camera off, the GPS unit will reacquire the signal in just a few seconds when the camera is turned back on.
Aftermarket GPS Unit Information: The Nikon GP-1 and GP-1A GPS units do not have a built-in digital compass, so they will not report heading information to the camera. Other GPS units do have the built-in compass and will report the heading. If that is important to you, please investigate the Geotagger GMAX GPS unit at http://www.solmeta.com.
Settings Recommendation: Get the Nikon GP-1 or GP-1A GPS unit from one of many vendors, or get the Solmeta GMAX-GD GPS from Amazon.com. Either unit is easy to use and has all the cables you need for interfacing with your camera.
If you choose one of the Nikon GPS units, the only other cable you’ll need to buy is the optional MC-DC2 shutter-release cable (coiled on the left in figure 10.23F). I use the tiny Nikon GP-1 GPS unit constantly when I’m shooting nature images so that I can remember where to return in the future. After you start using a GPS unit, you’ll find it hard to stop.
If you prefer to use a smart device for GPS, you will need to learn how to configure and use the SnapBridge app, which can be more battery intensive than using an external GPS unit. For occasional GPS use, the smartphone is fine, but for extensive GPS use, I would select an external GPS unit. An external GPS unit’s physical connection may use less battery power than the SnapBridge/Z6 Bluetooth connection. Of course, you likely already have a smartphone and SnapBridge is free, so why not try it first and see if it works well for you.
The Wireless remote (WR) options function lets you adjust settings for optional WR-R10 Wireless Remote Controllers. The WR-R10 plugs into the Accessory port on the side of the camera and allows you to control multiple banks of remote (slave) flash units.
There are two settings in the Wireless remote (WR) options function:
Let’s examine how to configure each of these two settings.
The LED lamps default to on, so they will blink regularly while the WR-R10 is in use. If you find this to be distracting, you can disable the LEDs. Let’s see how.
Use the following steps to enable or disable the WR-R10 LED lamps:
Settings Recommendation: When I am shooting in a studio environment and creating product shots, I do not mind if the lights blink on my WR-R10 Wireless Remote Controller. In fact, I find the blinking lights reassuring.
However, during a wedding, when I have a remote flash positioned for better lighting, I do not want blinking LED lights on my WR-R10 distracting the wedding party and proceedings, so I disable them. It is easy to turn them on and off, so do so when you need to for your style of photography.
If you are shooting in environments where there may be other photographers using WR-R10 units and you worry about one of them trying to take control of your remote slave units, you may want to use the PIN method to pair with your slave units.
Use the following steps to select the style of master/remote pairing you prefer when using your WR-R10 Wireless Remote Controller:
Settings Recommendation: I normally use the PAIR (Pairing) setting because I work by myself most of the time. In addition to configuring the WR-R10, you will need to configure each remote unit. Therefore, think carefully about how you will be working with your master/remote units. If you are shooting in an environment where there could be people who would like to aggravate you by taking over your remote units with their WR-R10, why not set up a PIN instead of using the Pairing button?
The Assign remote (WR) Fn button function allows you to program the camera to respond in various ways when you press the Fn button on an optional remote controller (one that has an Fn button, of course). You can assign 10 different functions to the controller’s Fn button. First let’s see an alphabetical list of the settings:
Because this function is so similar to many other assignment functions we have already considered over the last few chapters, we will examine how to assign the Fn1 button, but will not discuss what each assignment function does.
If you do not know what a particular function does, please refer to the detailed list of functionality for each option under Custom Setting Menu > f Controls > f2 Custom control assignment (page 423).
Let’s see how to assign a function to the Fn button on your remote controller.
Use the following steps to select a function for an optional remote controller’s Fn button:
Settings Recommendation: As a nature and event photographer, I have rarely used this Assign remote (WR) Fn button function. The camera defaults to +NEF (RAW) as the assignment for the remote Fn button. If you have a wireless remote and you think you might use this extra Fn button as part of its use, and +NEF (RAW) is not useful to you, then choose from the list of 10 functions the one you would most likely use.
Airplane mode in the Z6 works in a similar way to the airplane mode in your smart device. When you enable Airplane mode, the camera will turn off all radio transmissions of any type from within the camera body, including Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
However, if you have a WR-R10 or another wireless controller plugged into the 10-pin port, it will continue sending and receiving radio signals. Unplug any external wireless controllers to have true radio silence.
Use these steps to enable or disable Airplane mode in the Nikon Z6:
Settings Recommendation: When I go out into the wild to shoot my nature images, I often set the camera to Airplane mode. In fact, I keep it as one of the options under My Menu (page 600) so that I can access it quickly. Sometimes, I need all the battery power I can get, and Airplane mode conserves battery.
The Connect to smart device function is the core function to enable Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity with your Nikon SnapBridge app. This connection explanation is based on interfacing a Nikon Z6 with an iPhone 7 Plus smartphone, running the Apple iOS 12.1.2 operating system.
The SnapBridge app is available for both Android and iOS. The actual SnapBridge screens vary somewhat in appearance per smartphone operating system. However, they work in basically the same way. Whether using Android or iOS, you will find it fairly easy to make the camera and smart device connection.
Note: All SnapBridge and camera screens shown in this Connect to Smart Device section are from interfacing with my Z7. However, Nikon Z6 screens are the same.
The Bluetooth connection (page 534) allows your smart device to communicate directly with your Nikon Z6 using low-energy Bluetooth (BLE). Your Nikon Z6 and your smart device set up their own private Bluetooth network. Your smart device must be compatible with Bluetooth 4.0 and have BLE capability (most devices up to three or four years old work with BLE).
The Wi-Fi connection (page 537) sets up an “ad hoc” wireless network between the Nikon Z6 and the SnapBridge app on your smart device. The connection does not depend on any other Wi-Fi networks that may or may not be available in the area. It is a standalone, private connection between your camera and smart device.
The Nikon Z6 does not work with Nikon’s older WMU app. The camera is designed to connect only with smart devices running the SnapBridge app.
Now let’s discuss how to connect your Z6 to your smart device by using the SnapBridge app.
To make and use the connection (pairing) between your camera and smart device, you will need to use multiple radio-based services, including Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. Before you attempt to make the connection, you must enable Bluetooth and Wi-Fi on your smart device (e.g., iPhone). And if you want to use GPS location information (page 518), enable Location services.
The process of pairing the two devices is relatively easy. Let’s step through the screens and steps used to make a connection between your Z6 and a smart device (SnapBridge app):
Congratulations! You got through the pairing process successfully. The camera and app are now ready to transfer images. If the pairing failed, try again by starting over with the following steps:
Above all, don’t give up. Keep trying and you will be successful! (Note: The SnapBridge app can connect to multiple Nikon cameras.)
If you decide to delete a paired SnapBridge connection from your Z6, it is very easy to accomplish.
Use the following steps to delete a paired SnapBridge connection:
If you delete a paired connection from your camera, the connection still exists in SnapBridge and in your smart device’s Bluetooth profile area. If you ever want to reconnect the device you just disconnected, you will need to remove the Bluetooth pairing information from SnapBridge and delete your camera’s Bluetooth profile from your smart device first.
Figure 10.27B, image 2 (page 529), shows a menu with an item called Forget camera. Use this menu item to remove the camera from SnapBridge. Tap Forget camera and then touch the little minus (−) sign inside the small red circle next to the camera name to delete it (not shown).
Then you must remove the Bluetooth profile from your smart device. In an iPhone, it is under Settings app > Bluetooth > My devices. Tap the little “i” after the name (e.g., Z_7_3001781) and then touch Forget this device (not shown). In an Android it is found under the Settings gear control (swipe down from the top of the screen twice, and then tap the little gear). Find Bluetooth on the menu and tap it. Find your camera name (e.g., Z_7_3001781) under Paired devices and delete it (not shown).
You can enable or disable Bluetooth at any time to save battery. Disabling Bluetooth simply turns off the Bluetooth radio so that the camera can’t communicate or waste battery when not needed; it does not remove the paired Bluetooth connection, thereby forcing you to pair the devices again.
You could also use Airplane mode to turn off all the camera’s wireless connections. However, what if you want to use Wi-Fi but not Bluetooth right now? You can’t do that if Airplane mode is enabled. Fortunately, you can disable just Bluetooth.
Use the following steps to enable or disable Bluetooth temporarily:
Settings Recommendation: I leave my camera’s Bluetooth enabled all the time. I find it easier to simply switch the camera into Airplane mode (page 527) when I want to save battery life.
The camera gives you two ways to select images for transfer to your smart device. There is an automatic method, which will transfer all images you take from that point forward. There’s also a manual method, which lets you send only selected images to your smart device. Additionally, you can deselect all images so they won’t attempt to transfer.
If you want to automatically or manually transfer images, you must have Auto download (e.g., 2 megapixels) enabled under the Auto link menu selection on the main screen of the SnapBridge app.
Use the following steps to select images to send from your camera to your smart device:
Once you have enabled Auto select to send, the SnapBridge app will automatically download any new images you take, as long as Auto link > Auto download is enabled under SnapBridge.
If you would rather send selected images manually, you can choose individual images from a list of image thumbnails and mark them to send.
Use the following steps to manually select images to send from your camera to your smart device:
Settings Recommendation: I normally use Manual select to send when I want to send images to SnapBridge. I don’t like filling up my smart device’s limited storage with hundreds of images, even if they are only the “2 megapixels” versions that SnapBridge’s Auto link > Auto download offers.
If you need to transfer all the images you take, why not use the Connect to PC function described in the next main chapter section (page 542). You can send your images directly to your laptop computer’s much larger hard drive as you take them. The camera can use an existing local Wi-Fi network that both the camera and computer are members of (access-point Wi-Fi), or a one-to-one (ad hoc Wi-Fi) connection—directly between your Z6 and your computer—without using any outside wireless networks. The Z6 is a flexible little camera!
The Deselect all setting allows you to deselect all images marked for transfer. If you have been out shooting all day and accidentally have Auto select to send (page 535) selected, your camera is just itching to find SnapBridge so that it can send the 675 pictures you just took and fill up your smart device’s storage.
To prevent this large image transfer from taking place, you can use the Deselect all setting to deselect all marked images. Later, you can transfer only the ones you want with Manual select to send (page 535).
Use the following steps to deselect all images and prevent their automatic transfer:
Wi-Fi connection is best used when transferring large numbers of images and large items like videos to your smart device. You must make a Wi-Fi connection not entirely unlike when you connect a new smartphone or tablet to your home Wi-Fi.
Basically, the camera wants to be the Wi-Fi access point for your smartphone. While using the Wi-Fi connection, your smart device will not be able to access the internet. Instead the camera and smart device will be connected in a private (ad hoc) Wi-Fi network between the two devices only.
From the camera, it is quite easy to initiate the connection; however, you will need to know how to choose a Wi-Fi network from your smart device’s settings app. Instead of choosing your normal home Wi-Fi network, you must choose the camera’s Wi-Fi connection. Let’s see how to initiate the Wi-Fi connection between the camera and your smart device.
There are two steps to establishing a Wi-Fi connection between your camera and a smartphone or tablet:
We will be considering how to enable Wi-Fi on the camera; however, it is beyond the scope of this book to describe (other than roughly) how to connect a smart device to the camera’s Wi-Fi connection. There are simply too many smart devices out there, with slightly different ways to connect to a Wi-Fi network. Again, connecting to the camera’s Wi-Fi is very similar to what you have surely done in the past when you connected your smart device to your home Wi-Fi. In other words, the Z6 becomes the source for your smart device’s Wi-Fi connection instead of your home Wi-Fi.
Use the following steps to enable the Wi-Fi connection in your camera so that you can connect your smart device to the camera’s private Wi-Fi network:
Smart device connection info: Here is rough information on finding and establishing the Wi-Fi connection on smart devices:
The camera provides default Wi-Fi connection information, including an SSID of “Z_6_” followed by your camera’s serial number (e.g., Z_6_1234567) and a password of NIKONZ_6. If you would prefer to use a more secure connection, in case an unauthorized person may try to connect to your camera over Wi-Fi, you can use the following steps to create a new SSID and Password, along with other Wi-Fi settings. Let’s examine how to configure a more secure Wi-Fi connection.
Use the following steps to create a more secure Wi-Fi environment than the camera’s default settings:
Settings Recommendation: I change the SSID and Password to one I can remember easily, I always use authentication and encryption, and I leave the Channel set to Auto.
The Send while off setting is useful for those times when you have taken a large number of images and want to transfer them to your smart device without standing around waiting for the transfer to continue.
You can enable Send while off, start the transfer process, turn off your camera, and walk away. The camera will not shut down fully until all the images have transferred, and the smart device will usually shut itself off too.
Use the following steps to enable or disable Send while off:
Settings Recommendation: I generally don’t use the Send while off feature because I like to monitor any image transfers for problems. Also, I worry about unnecessary battery drain. However, you may want to experiment with this setting to see if it is convenient for you.
The Connect to PC function allows you to set up a connection for transferring images between your Z6 and a Mac or PC computer. You can connect to the computer on an existing home or business Wi-Fi network (Infrastructure mode), or by directly connecting the camera to a computer, using only the camera and computer’s built-in Wi-Fi (Access-point mode).
Both styles of connection allow you to take a picture and have it transfer immediately to a designated folder on your computer. The camera has built-in Wi-Fi, so it is ready to connect by either style of Wi-Fi connection. Your computer must also have Wi-Fi capability to be used for receiving images (e.g., a laptop, or a desktop unit with a Wi-Fi dongle or card).
The Infrastructure mode is often used when you are at home or in the studio and you want to use your existing Wi-Fi network to connect the camera and computer for image transfer.
The Access-point mode is used when you are out in the field where there are no Wi-Fi networks available. The Z6 becomes a wireless access point and the computer connects to the camera’s Wi-Fi directly.
You will need to download the Nikon Wireless Transmitter Utility for your Mac or PC. You will use the Connect to PC function to connect with the Wireless Transmitter Utility software. Download the software from Nikon at the following web address:
https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/sw/128.html
If that address doesn’t work, do a Google search for “download Nikon Wireless Transmitter Utility.”
Before you proceed with the camera/computer pairing, be sure to have already installed the Nikon Wireless Transmitter Utility software on your computer so that it’s ready to run.
Now let’s see how to make the two types of Wi-Fi connections between your computer and camera. We will examine each type of connection individually.
Note: In this Connect to PC section, all computer screens are from a Mac computer. All camera screens are from a Nikon Z7. Windows PC and Nikon Z6 screens are the same.
The Infrastructure mode is just a cool-sounding way of saying that you will connect your camera to your PC or Mac by using an existing wireless home or business network.
You may use this mode to wirelessly transfer images to your PC or Mac across the same in-house wireless network you use to access printers, other computers, and the internet.
Use the following steps to connect your camera to an existing Wi-Fi network:
Congratulations! The camera and computer are now connected through your local Wi-Fi network and you are ready to configure the computer to receive images. See the upcoming chapter subsection Choosing a Picture Folder for Image Transfer (page 550). But first, let’s consider how to make a direct connection between your camera and a computer, with no external Wi-Fi network required.
The Access-point mode is an impressive-sounding way of saying that you will connect your camera to your PC or Mac directly, on a wireless, ad hoc network between the camera and computer only. The camera will become a wireless access point with which the computer can connect.
You may use this mode to wirelessly transfer images to your PC or Mac on a private connection controlled by the camera. There is generally no Internet access on your computer while using this mode. You can use Access-point mode even when no Wi-Fi is normally available, such as when out shooting in nature or at a sports event.
Use the following steps to make a wireless connection between a single computer and your camera:
Congratulations! The camera and computer are now directly connected through an ad hoc Wi-Fi network that works between the camera and computer only. Now you should configure a picture folder to receive images on your computer. Let’s see how to do that.
Once you have made a connection between your camera and computer, using either Infrastructure mode (page 543) or Access-point mode (page 547), you must set up a folder to receive images. Afterward, you will use the Options menu (next subsection) to select how and when images will be transferred to your picture folder. Let’s see how to create a picture folder on your computer.
Use the following steps to create a picture folder to wirelessly receive images from your camera:
You have completed the configuration of your computer’s picture folder. Your camera is ready to send images, and the computer is ready to receive images and save them to the picture folder. Now you need to make a choice as to how and when images will transfer to the computer.
The camera gives you four Options for sending images to your computer. Here is a list of the Options and what each does:
Now let’s see how to select one of these image transfer options.
Use the following steps to send copies of your images to your computer:
Use the following steps to Auto send copies of your images to your computer:
Use the following steps to delete the images from your camera’s memory card after they are sent to your computer:
Use the following steps to send JPEG only or NEF (RAW) + JPEG copies of your images to your computer:
Use the following steps to deselect all images marked for sending to your computer or smart device:
In figure 10.28T you can see the screen shown when images are transferring. The file name of the image currently being transferred is shown in dark blue (e.g., _1DY0180.NEF), followed by Now sending.
At the bottom of the sending area, you will see the number of remaining images (e.g., REM 0001), the approximate time remaining (e.g., 00:01’ 20”) and the Wi-Fi signal strength in light blue on the bottom right (mine shows three bars, or full strength).
For those who need to use their camera to connect to and use various network resources, it is imperative to have the MAC address of the camera available. Use this function to view the MAC address, which never changes.
Use the following steps to view the MAC address of your Z6:
Note: The MAC (Media Access Control) address has nothing to do with an Apple Mac computer. It is a unique series of characters assigned to each device with networking capabilities to help identify the device as a unique entity on a network.
With a Nikon WT-7 or WT-7a wireless transmitter attached to the Nikon Z6, the camera will be able to link with a computer or an FTP server by using a wireless or Ethernet network. The camera already has this functionality to some degree using less expensive tools and functions, such as SnapBridge (page 528), Connect to PC (page 542), and the WR-R10 wireless transmitter (page 523) along with the camera’s built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. While connected to a WT-7/a you will have the following settings under your control:
The primary benefit you will receive by using the rather expensive WT-7a transmitter is a more robust radio signal and greater range compared to the other wireless solutions mentioned earlier. It is unlikely that most of us will need the power of this high-end transmitter. If you have that need, you will already know it. If you are not sure, please do some research to see how the WT-7/a might benefit you.
The use of a WT-7/a transmitter is beyond the scope of this book. Please refer to the user’s manual included with your Nikon WT-7 or WT-7a transmitter for details on using it to replace the camera’s built in functionality and less expensive solutions.
Conformity marking is a simple function that lets you see the symbols for the various industry standards with which your camera conforms. These standards have symbols that you can research if you so desire.
Use the following steps to view the camera’s conformity standards:
The Battery info screen (figure 10.30, image 2) will let you know how much battery charge has been used (Charge), how many images have been taken with this battery since the last charge (No. of shots), and how much life the battery has before it will no longer hold a good charge (Battery age).
Here are the steps to examine the Battery info:
The Z6 goes a step further than most cameras. Not only does it inform you of the amount of charge left in your battery, it also lets you know how much life is left. After some time, all batteries weaken and won’t hold a full charge. The Battery age meter will tell you when the battery needs to be completely replaced. It shows five stages of battery life, from 0 to 4, so you’ll be prepared to replace the battery before it gets too old to take many shots.
Settings Recommendation: It’s important to use Nikon brand batteries in your Z6 so they will work properly with the camera. Aftermarket batteries may not charge correctly in the Z6 battery charger. In addition, they may not report correct Battery age information. There may be an aftermarket brand that works correctly, but I haven’t found it. Instead, I use the batteries designed by Nikon to work with this camera. I am a bit afraid to trust a camera that costs this much to a cheap aftermarket battery of unknown origin.
Slot empty release lock defaults to locking the shutter when you try to take an image without a memory card inserted in the camera. By enabling it, you can take pictures without a memory card but cannot save them later.
This function exists so that when you have your camera tethered to your computer using Nikon Camera Control Pro 2 software (not included), you can send pictures directly to the computer, bypassing the memory card.
You can allow the camera to take pictures with no card inserted when you select the OK Enable release setting. Here is a description of both settings:
Here are the steps used to configure Slot empty release lock:
Settings Recommendation: I tried using the OK Enable release setting as an experiment. I found that there is no real reason to use this setting other than when the camera is tethered to a computer. You cannot save the images in the memory buffer to a memory card later.
Do you have your Z6 set up exactly the way you like it? Have you spent hours and hours reading this book and the Z7/Z6 User’s Manual, or simply exploring menus, and finally you finally have all the settings in place? Are you worried that you might accidentally reset your camera or that it could lose its settings in one way or another? Well, worry no more! Save/load settings writes configuration settings to the memory card, allowing you to back up camera settings to your computer.
When you have your camera configured to your liking, or at any time during the process, simply use the Save/load settings function to save the camera configuration to your memory card. It creates a small file whose name begins with NCSET followed by three numbers that vary by camera (e.g., 001), and ending in .BIN, into the root directory of your Z6’s memory card (e.g., NCSET001.BIN). You can then save that file to your computer’s hard drive and have a backup of your camera settings.
Here are the steps to save or load the camera’s settings:
Here is a list of settings that are saved or loaded when you make use of one of these functions. It doesn’t save or load every setting in the Z6, only the ones listed here:
Playback Menu (5 settings)
Photo Shooting Menu (all four banks included, 25 settings)
Movie Shooting Menu (25 settings)
Custom Settings (50 settings)
Setup Menu (15 settings)
Settings Recommendation: This function is a great idea. After using my camera for a few days and getting it set up just right, I save the settings file to my computer for safekeeping. Later, if I change things extensively for some reason and then want to reload my original settings, I just put the backed-up settings file on a memory card, pop it into the camera, select Load settings, and I’m back in business.
The Reset all settings function allows you to do exactly what it says: reset all the settings within the Nikon Z6. At some point in the future, you may want to sell your camera to offset the cost of a new Nikon purchase, or you may just want to start over with fresh settings. This function allows you to do so.
Use the following steps to reset your Z6’s menu settings for a fresh start with menu configuration:
Firmware version is a simple informational screen, like the Battery info screen. It shows you which version of the camera’s operating system (firmware) the Z6 is running. My camera is currently running version C2.00 and LF 1.00 (figure 10.34, image 2).
Here are the steps to see the Firmware version of your camera:
When it’s time to do a firmware update, you will use this same Firmware version menu to update the camera. An extra “Update” menu item will appear below the Done selection (not shown), allowing you to update the firmware. Follow the instructions provided on Nikon’s website for each firmware update.
Whew! The Z6 may seem like a complicated little beast, but that’s what you get when you fold pro-level functionality into a relatively small DSLM body. For as complex as it is, I’m certainly delighted with it.
Next, we’ll consider how to use the camera’s Retouch Menu to adjust images without using a computer. If you are in the field shooting RAW files and you need a quick JPEG, black-and-white version of a file, or red-eye reduction, the Retouch Menu has you covered.
You can even do things like image distortion and perspective control, color balance changes, filtration, cropping, and image resizing—all without touching a computer. Let’s see how!
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