7. Preparing Items for Sale

In this chapter, you learn everything you need to do before you list an item for sale or auction on eBay.

→ Finding Items to Sell

→ What You Can’t Sell on eBay

→ Preparing Items for Sale

→ Picking the Right Category

→ Taking Product Photos

→ Writing an Effective Title

→ Writing an Effective Description

→ Making the Grade

Before you list an item for sale, you have to get it ready. That means working up descriptive copy for the listing, shooting some attractive photos of the item, figuring out what category it best fits in, and more. Read on to learn everything you need to know before you create your first item listing.

Think of eBay as a giant garage sale. You have stuff you no longer want or need; somebody somewhere wants or needs it. eBay is just the way of connecting your old stuff with its new owners.

You see, eBay buyers are always looking for bargains. Maybe that’s a good price on some slightly used clothing, or a deal on that tennis racket you’ve never gotten much use out of. If you don’t want it, that doesn’t mean nobody does. There’s somebody somewhere who wants your old stuff. Use eBay to reach them and sell it to them.

When you’re looking for more merchandise to sell on eBay, think about your friends and family. Maybe they have stuff they no longer need—and maybe you can help them sell it. Think about cutting a deal as a “middleman” to sell your friends’ and family’s stuff on eBay, especially if they’re unfamiliar with the process themselves. (And remember to keep a fair share of the profits for yourself; you’re doing all the work, right?)

eBay’s list of prohibited items includes the following:

• Alcohol, except for pre-approved wine listings

• Animals and wildlife products, except for tropical fish and domestic aquatic snails

• Artifacts and antiquities protected under federal laws

• Bootleg or counterfeit recordings of CDs, videos, computer software, or other items that infringe on someone else’s copyright or trademark

• Cell phones covered under an existing service contract (you can sell the phone, but not the service contract)

• Counterfeit currency and stamps

• Credit and debit cards (unless they’re more than 10 years old, in which case they’re collectible)

• Drugs and drug paraphernalia

• Electronic jamming devices

• Embargoed goods and goods from prohibited countries

• Firearms, ammunition, and knives (except for some collectible knives and swords)

• Government and transit documents, IDs, licenses, and uniforms

• Hazardous materials

• Human remains and body parts

• Items that contain the image, likeness, name, or signature of a person, unless the person has authorized the product in question

• Items that encourage illegal activity, such as instructions for making a bomb

• Law enforcement badges, uniforms, and equipment

• Lockpicking devices

• Lottery tickets

• Mailing lists and personal information

• Medical devices that require a prescription

• Military ordinance, vehicles, and uniforms

• Multilevel marketing, pyramid, and matrix programs

• Offensive material, such as items that promote or glorify hatred, violence, racial, sexual, or religious intolerance

• Pesticides classified as restricted, or stored in open or repackaged containers

• Postage meters

• Prescription drugs

• Recalled items

• Satellite and cable TV descramblers

• Slot machines

• Snake venom

• Stocks and other securities (unless they’re collectible certificates)

• Stolen property and property with removed serial numbers

• Surveillance equipment

• Tobacco

• Unauthorized artwork and reproductions

• Used cosmetics and applicators

• Used underwear, g-strings, and jockstraps

This list covers just the general restricted items; there are even more details for specific items in certain categories. For more information, or if you’re in doubt about a particular item, check out eBay’s Prohibited and Restricted Items page at pages.ebay.com/help/policies/items-ov.html.

So here’s a short checklist of things to do to make an item ready for sale on eBay:

• Make sure that the item exists and is on hand. Don’t assume that the box that says “gift soaps” actually contains gift soaps; open up previously opened containers to make sure the right items are inside—including all necessary accessories.

• If you have the original box for an item, use it. Selling a used item in its original box increases its value.

• Take the time to clean the item you’re selling. If something’s been up in your attic or out in your garage, chances are it’s at least gotten a little dusty. Dust it off, wipe off the dirt and grime, maybe get out the soap and water do a little cleaning. Spruce it up and shine it up to make it look as close to brand-new as possible. (That is, unless cleaning an item might reduce its value—which can be the case with some collectibles.) When you do your cleaning, make sure you’re familiar with the proper cleaning process for that item; what works on one thing might actually damage something else.

• If the item has any flaws, dings, missing parts, or other damages, note them. (You’ll want to mention any flaws in the item listing.)

• If the item smells of cigarette smoke or mildew, spritz it with a little Febreze. If that doesn’t work, you’ll need to note the odor in the item listing—which will reduce its value. And if the item comes from a smoke-free (or even pet-free) home, state that in the listing; many buyers will pay more for items from a super-clean environment.

• Determine how you’ll be packing the item. In most cases, you’ll have to purchase a box or envelope or whatever, along with appropriate packing material, such as Styrofoam peanuts.

• Weigh the item, along with all the packing material you’ll be using. You’ll need the item weight to calculate shipping costs.

• Determine how you’ll be shipping the item (U.S. Postal Service, FedEx, UPS, or similar) and use the weight of the item to calculate approximate shipping costs.

This is all necessary. You need to make your item as attractive as possible to potential buyers. A good-looking item sells faster and for more money than the same item that’s not in as good a condition.

• Antiques

• Art

• Baby

• Books

• Business & Industrial

• Cameras & Photo

• Cell Phones & Accessories

• Clothing, Shoes, and Accessories

• Coins & Paper Money

• Collectibles

• Computers/Tablets & Networking

• Consumer Electronics

• Crafts

• Dolls & Bears

• DVDs & Movies

• eBay Motors

• Entertainment Memorabilia

• Gift Cards & Coupons

• Health & Beauty

• Home & Garden

• Jewelry & Watches

• Music

• Musical Instruments & Gear

• Pet Supplies

• Pottery & Glass

• Real Estate

• Specialty Services

• Sporting Goods

• Sports Memorabilia, Cards, & Fan Shop

• Stamps

• Tickets & Experiences

• Toys & Hobbies

• Travel

• Video Games & Accessories

• Everything Else

Most of these major categories are further divided into more specific subcategories. For example, the major category of Clothing, Shoes, & Accessories is subdivided into a variety of smaller categories, such Men’s Clothing, Women’s Clothing, Women’s Shoes, Vintage, and so on. To make it easier to find specific items, these subcategories are further subdivided into even more targeted subcategories; for example, the Women’s Clothing subcategory is subdivided into further subcategories for Athletic Apparel, Coats & Jackets, Dresses, Sweaters, and so on.

But it isn’t always that easy. What do you do if you want to sell a model of an American Airlines jet? Does it go in the Collectibles & Art > Collectibles > Transportation > Aviation > Airlines > American category, or the Toys & Hobbies > Models & Kits > Aircraft (Non-Military) category?

The category in which you list your item should be dictated by where the highest number of potential buyers will look for it. Search the item listings to get an idea of which items are in what categories, and for those categories that have a higher success rate. In the American Airlines jet model example, if there are more bidders traipsing through the Collectibles category, put it there; if there are more potential buyers who think of this as a model toy thing, put it in that category. (In reality, you’ll probably find listings for this sort of item in both categories.) Think like your potential buyers, and put it where you would look for it if you were them.

If you really can’t decide—if your item really does belong in more than one category—eBay lets you list your item in two categories. It costs twice the regular listing fee, but it potentially doubles your exposure.

• Use a digital camera—or your smartphone. We’re talking digital photos here, so use your handy dandy digital camera. Just about any digital camera will do; you don’t need one of those expensive D-SLR models. (Although those do shoot some darned fine photos.) A typical point-and-shoot digital camera with a decent zoom lens should do the job. For that matter, the cameras built into most smartphones today are probably adequate for shooting these types of product photos.

Point-and-shoot digital camera (photo courtesy Canon)

• Use a tripod. You want crystal clear photos of your item, not blurry ones. That means taking care to hold the camera steady while you’re shooting. Even better, invest in a tripod to hold the camera rock solid when you’re shooting.

Tripod (photo courtesy Velbon)

• Shoot in strong light. One of the worst photographic offenses is to shoot under standard indoor room light. Although you can touch up the photo somewhat afterward (see the “Edit Your Photos” section, later in this chapter), you can’t put in light that wasn’t there to begin with. Open all the windows, turn on all the room lights, use a flash or external lighting kit, or just take the item outdoors where there’s plenty of sunlight. What you want is a well-lighted photograph that shows off your item to best possible effect. That’s much, much better than dimly lit photos where potential buyers can’t see all the details.

• Avoid glare. If you’re shooting a glass or plastic item, an item still in plastic wrap or packaging, or just an item that’s naturally shiny, you have to work hard to avoid glare from whatever lighting source you’re using. This is one reason why I typically don’t recommend using the type of single-point flash built into most of today’s digital cameras—without any fill lighting, it produces too much glare. You avoid glare by not using a flash, using external lights (to the sides of the object), diffusing the lighting source (by bouncing the light off a reflector of some sort), or just turning the item until the glare goes away. A simpler solution is to shoot in an area with strong natural light—such as outside on a nice day.

Glare on shiny item (bad)

• Shoot against a plain background. If you shoot your item against a busy background, it detracts from the item itself. Hang a white or black sheet (or T-shirt) behind the item; it will make the main object stand out in the photo. Even better, invest in a roll of seamless background paper, which you can find in most photo stores; you want the buyer to focus on what you’re selling, not what’s behind it in the picture.

Item shot against busy background (bad)

• Use a photo studio kit. If you’re selling small items, like jewelry or miniatures or other collectibles, consider investing in a photo studio kit. This is a small tent or box into which you place your item; the kit functions as the item’s background and contains its own built-in lighting. Just aim your camera through the open end and shoot; the result is quite professional.

Photo studio kit (photo courtesy Polaroid)

• Frame the picture. To take effective photographs, you have to learn proper composition. That means centering the item in the middle of the photo, and getting close enough to the object so that it fills up the entire picture. Don’t stand halfway across the room and shoot a very small object; get close up and make it big!

Poorly framed item—too small and off center

• Focus! Okay, this one sounds obvious, but I see a lot of blurry pictures on eBay. Make sure that you know how to focus your camera, or how to use the auto-focus function. (And make sure the focus is on your item, not on the background behind it!)

• Use macro mode. If you’re shooting a small item, your camera might have difficulty focusing if you get too close. Use your camera’s macro focus mode to enable sharp focus closer to the object.

• Take more than one photo. Don’t snap off a quick picture with your iPhone and assume that you’ve done your job. Shoot your item from several different angles and distances—and remember to get a close-up of any important area of the item, such as a serial number or a damaged area. You might want to include multiple photos in your listing—or just have a good selection of photos to choose from for that one best picture.

• Shoot clothing as worn. If you’re selling new or used clothing, don’t just lay it on your bed and shoot. People want to get an idea of how it will look when worn. You can do this by hanging a shirt or sweater on a hanger, using a mannequin or dressmaker’s form, or having a model wear it.

A sweater shot on a dressmaker’s form

• Scan instead of shoot. If you’re selling relatively flat items (books, comics, CDs, and even small boxes), you might be better off with a scanner than a camera. Just lay the object on a flatbed scanner and scan the item into a file on your computer. It’s actually easier to scan something like a book or a DVD case than it is to take a good steady picture of it!

eBay stock photo for Blu-ray listing

• Lighten photos shot in low light.

• Correct the color and tint in poorly shot photos.

• Crop the picture to focus on only the item you’re selling.

For best results, upload your photos in JPG format, with a minimum resolution of 500 pixels on the longest side. For the best possible display, shoot and edit your photos with 1600 pixels on the longest side.

eBay lets you use up to 80 letters, numbers, characters, and spaces in your listing title. Within these confines, you need to accomplish two things:

• Include the appropriate information so that anyone searching for a similar item will find your item in his search results.

• Make your title stand out from all the other titles on those long listing pages.

Do those two things and you significantly increase your chances of getting your item noticed and sold.

As an example, let’s say you’re selling a set of six golf clubs. They’re the R7 series from Taylor Made with stiff steel shafts, irons only. You purchased the clubs in 2008, and you have the complete set from the 4 iron to the 9 iron. How do you list this item?

You have to make sure that you get all the right keywords in your title. For this example, it’s obvious that you should use the words golf, club, and irons. You should also include the manufacturer (Taylor Made) in the title, along with the keyword phrase stiff steel shafts. If you have space, you should also include the series (R7) and the word used.

What you end up with is a title something like this:

Taylor Made R7 Used Golf Clubs 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 Irons Stiff Steel Shafts 2008

That’s 77 characters, including spaces, just under the 80-character limit. It gets the point across and buyers will know exactly what they’re buying.

You should include different information with different types of items. With some items, you’ll want to include the year it was made or purchased. With other items, a full item number is helpful. Don’t forget brand and product names, when they matter. And include as many item details, such as color and size, as you can fit in.

Instead, I advise you to think like an advertising copywriter. What words almost always stop consumers in their tracks? Use attention-getting words such as FREE and NEW and BONUS and EXTRA and DELUXE and RARE—as long as these words truly describe the item you’re selling and don’t mislead the potential bidder. (And don’t bump more important search words for these fluffier marketing terms—that won’t help your item show up in bidder searches.)

Try this one on for size: Which would you rather bid on, a 1964 Aurora Superman Model Kit or a RARE Aurora 1964 Superman Model Kit? I’m betting you go for the second one—and mentally prepare yourself to pay more for it, too!

In short, use your title to both inform and attract attention—and include as many potential search keywords as possible.

When you’re writing the description for your listing, be sure to mention anything and everything that a potential buyer might need to know. Note any defects or imperfections of the item. If the object is graded or evaluated in any way, include that assessment in your description. In other words, include everything you can think of that will eliminate any surprises for the buyer.

• Name (or title)

• Condition

• Age

• Original use (what you used it for)

• Value (if you know it)

• Important measurements, contents, colors, materials, and so on

• Any included accessories (including the original instruction manual, if you have it)

• Any known defects or damage

If you don’t know some of this information, that’s okay—as long as you admit it. If you’re not that familiar with the type of merchandise you’re selling, just say so. Better to plead ignorance upfront than to have a savvier buyer cause problems for you after the sale.

That’s right; you need to describe the item in painful detail, and be completely honest about what you’re selling. If you’re not honest in your description, it will come back to haunt you—in the form of an unhappy and complaining buyer.

Let’s say you’re selling a used computer keyboard with a split design. Saying simply that it’s an “ergonomic keyboard” merely states a feature of the item; saying instead that “the keyboard’s ergonomic design lets you work for longer periods without causing hand pain” is describing a benefit. Remember, a feature is something your item has; a benefit is something your item does for the user.

And if your listing starts to get a little long, you should break it into more readable chunks. Use separate paragraphs to present different types of information, or just to break one long paragraph into several shorter, more readable ones. You can even use eBay’s formatting options to use different type sizes and colors for different portions of your listing description.

Here is some of the “fine print” you might want to include at the bottom of your item description:

• Bidding restrictions, such as “No bidders with negative feedback,” “Bidders with positive feedback of at least 10 only,” or “United States buyers only.”

• Payment restrictions, such as “United States funds only,” “No personal checks,” or “Personal checks take two weeks to clear.”

• Shipping/handling charges (if you know them) and restrictions, such as “Buyer pays shipping/handling” or “Shipping via USPS Priority Mail only.”

• The grade of your item, if your item has been graded (discussed later in this chapter). Note that this information can also be included in the main body of the item description, as well as in the fine print section.

While you’re at it, throw in any alternative spellings you can think of. For example, you might know that the correct spelling of Spider-Man includes the hyphen in the middle, but less informed users might search for the unhyphenated Spiderman. Whichever variation you use in your title, throw the other one in at the bottom of the description.

Grading is a way of noting the condition of an item, according to a predetermined standard. Collectors use these grading scales to help evaluate and price items within a category. If you know the grade of your item, you can include the grade in the item’s title or description, and thus more accurately describe the item to potential bidders.

That said, many collectible categories use a variation of the Mint grading system, as shown in Table 7.1.

Degrees between grade levels are indicated with a + or –. For example, an item a little better than Fine but not quite Near Fine would be designated as F+. Naturally, the definition of a Mint or Fair item differs by item type.

Where can you get your items graded? Table 7.2 lists some popular websites for grading and authenticating collectible items.

The cost of these authentication services varies wildly, depending on what you’re authenticating, the age or value of the item, and the extent of the service itself. For example, Professional Sports Authenticator rates range from $5 to $150 per sports card; Professional Stamps Experts rates range from $15 to $500 per stamp. Make sure that the item you’re selling is worth it before you go to this expense—and that you can recoup this expense in your auction.

The big challenge with any grading system is that grading is subjective. Although there might be guidelines for different grading levels, the line between “very good” and “excellent” is often a fine one. You should be very careful about assigning your own grading levels; even better, supplement the grade with a detailed description and photographs so that bidders can make up their own minds as to your item’s true value.