Earthenware is a low-fire clay. It is generally the least durable of the clays because it typically is not fired to a vitrificated state. Think flowerpot. The firing range is 1828 to 2124°F (cone 08 to 4). While it can be white or buff, red earthenware is the most common. Red earthenware contains a high iron content, causing the clay to fire to a rusty color. Earthenware is good for beginners as it is not likely to warp, accepts attachments well, and holds form when working with slabs. It has an absorption rate of 5 to 10 percent.

Stoneware clay is a midrange to high-fire clay. It is more durable because it is fired at higher temperatures, causing the clay to vitrify, hence the word “stone.”

The firing range is 2167 to 2383°F (cone 5 to 12). Most stoneware clays are incredibly workable, making them appropriate for beginners. Choosing the right stoneware clay depends on your specific needs. It has an absorption rate of 1 to 5 percent.

Porcelain is a high-fire clay. It is the purest of the clays with a fine texture and is glassy and vitreous. Some but not all porcelains are translucent when the walls are thin enough. The firing range is 2232 to 2383°F (cone 6 to 12). Porcelain is the most fickle of the clays. It lends itself beautifully for throwing and trimming but has a fierce memory and a high shrinkage rate, which can cause warping and cracking. It is not recommended for beginners. It has an absorption rate of 0 to 2 percent.

SPONGE – A sponge is typically used to moisten clay during the throwing process and is also useful for cleanup. I use a sponge as a buffer between my fingers during wheel throwing. I love my sponge!

WIRE CUTTER – The needle tool is used to remove your finished pot from the wheel and to slice clay before wedging.

WOOD KNIFE – This knife is used to remove excess clay at the foot of your pot at the end of the throwing process.

NEEDLE TOOL – The needle tool is used for many tasks but especially for slicing the rim of a pot on the wheel to make it even.

RIBS – There are several different kinds of ribs, including wooden, metal, and plastic. They are typically used in the throwing process to smooth clay and to refine the shape, but they can also be used during the decorating and finishing process.

CALIPERS – Calipers measure diameter when throwing forms such as jars and lids. Lidded forms are beyond the scope of this book, but you might also use calipers to measure pots when making a matching set.

SCALE – When weighing clay, a scale is essential for mixing slip or glaze.

BUCKET – I use a bucket to hold water while throwing, but buckets have a million other uses around the studio.

BATS – Bats are flat disks or square attachments that are secured to the wheel. They are used so pots can be easily removed from the wheel without having to directly touch them. They make life easier when throwing flat or large objects on the wheel.

BAT PINS – Bat pins secure the bats on the wheel.

POT LIFTERS – These help you lift your pot off the wheel with ease.

WARE BOARDS – Ware boards are used for carrying multiple pots much like a waitress carries a serving tray. Potters typically use wood or other materials, but I prefer drywall because it absorbs some of the moisture of the pot without sticking. Just be sure to duct tape the edges of drywall boards so they don’t crumble or deteriorate.

LOOP TOOLS – Coming in all shapes and sizes, these tools are used to trim excess clay off pots. Different shapes make different impressions.

TURN TOOLS – This style of trim tool uses an elongated L-shaped edge to trim a larger surface area. Turn tools are also used to create a textured chattering effect.

SPRAY BOTTLE – A great tool for keeping pots moist.

RESPIRATOR – Respirators protect your lungs from clay dust and toxic materials. These are not just for mixing glazes; you should wear a respirator when cleaning any ceramic studio or wherever dust is present, such as when using sandpaper or similar tools on greenware.

X-ACTO KNIFE – I love my X-ACTO knife for a number of reasons. It is perfect for cutting handles, cutting slabs of clay, darting, and decorating.

SURFORM – Similar to a cheese grater, this tool is preferred for removing excess clay by hand.

SMOOTHING TOOLS – To get into all the nooks and crannies, smoothing tools are your friend when attaching pieces such as handles.

SCORING TOOL – Slip and score, scratch and attach. This tool is all you need (besides water) to merge together two pieces of clay.

PAINTBRUSHES – Having good brushes is key. Slip and underglaze will go on more smoothly during the decorating process with the help of a good soft brush.

ROLLING PIN – Extremely useful for flattening clay evenly and many other tasks. The more handbuilding or slab work you do, the more you will use a rolling pin.

BANDING WHEEL – A banding wheel is basically a turntable that allows you to spin the pot without picking it up. It is incredibly useful for decorating, sculpting, carving, and adding attachments.

DECORATING DISKS – These are used to map out equal parts of a pot and are great aids in executing calculated decoration (and altering) of pots.

SCISSORS – For cutting out transfers and designs; see chapter 5.

TRANSPARENCY PAPER – For mapping out decal designs; see chapter 5.

MICRON PENS – For designing decals; see chapter 5.

PENCIL AND PAPER – The classics, good for so many aspects of pottery planning.

Clay in its wet form is safe in that it does not release dust into the air. Once it dries, you run the risk of inhaling silica dust. This poses a health risk for career potters and ceramic artists because inhalation of silica dust over time can cause silicosis. Often referred to as “white lung,” this condition causes emphysema-like symptoms. I share this not to scare you but to inspire you to develop good cleaning habits from the start.

Never sweep dried clay or glaze. Doing so releases silica dust and particles into the air, where it then settles on objects. Instead, use wet cleaning methods, such as a wet sponge or a wet mop. Better yet, get in the habit of disposing clay scraps before they dry. Also, every time you think you will have potential exposure to silica dust (whether it is cleaning dried clay, sanding greenware, mixing glazes, etc.), wear a safety mask or respirator.

While silica is the most common danger in the studio for potters, there are other materials to look out for. Always read labels before handling clay or dry materials. When you are mixing glazes with toxic materials such as chrome, manganese, copper, and vanadium, always handle and store these safely, use gloves, and wear a respirator. If you are unsure what is in the glaze you are using, treat it as if it contains ingredients like these.

No matter what studio you work in, don’t eat, drink with an open container, or store food in a place where there could be any cross-contamination. Always wash your hands after working in the studio and before eating.

STEP 1 To make it easier on yourself, pound your clay into a loose ball. Next, drive the clay downward into the wedging surface at a 45-degree angle using the palm of your hands and holding onto the clay with your fingertips. [A]

STEP 2 Swoop your hands upward, still holding onto the clay at your fingertips, and repeat that driving motion. [B] Be careful not to make such drastic movements that you are flattening and folding the clay. This will add air to it rather than remove it.

STEP 3 To keep the clay from elongating continuously, pat the sides between each couple of rolls. At any time, you can lift up the clay and move it back to the center of the wedging surface to prevent it from traveling. [C]

TIP As a beginner, you might find it difficult to tell whether you are wedging correctly or have wedged the clay enough. A quick way to find out is by slicing your clay in half with a wire cutter. If you spot any air bubbles, you should continue wedging, making sure you are following the above instructions by de-airing the clay. Either way, slap your two pieces back together and repeat the movements in steps 1 to 3. [D]

Now it is time for the very exciting make or break moment. Don’t be nervous; when you get this part right, it is very enjoyable. I will teach you how to successfully raise the walls of your cylinder.

STEP 1 Moisten your clay so it is slick but not soaking wet. I prefer to do this while the wheel is spinning so that the moisture will be even. Working on the right side of the pot, place your left hand on the inside and your right hand on the outside. With the wheel spinning at medium speed, gently push your fingers toward each other as if they were magnets, then start pulling upward using even pressure. [A] [B]

TIP This is truly about even pressure, just like coning up. If you press too hard, like the strongest magnet connection, you might slice a donut of clay right off your pot. If you do not press hard enough, you might have a pot that keeps looking the same no matter how much you work on it.

STEP 2 Once you reach the top of the pot and with the wheel spinning gently, compress the rim. Do this step after every pull, as it helps keep your pot centered and the rim a consistent thickness. You need to be gentle with your compression though. If you press too hard, you might erase the progress you made.

STEP 3 Repeat the pulling movement in step 1, only this time focus on the movement of your hands gliding straight upward. This might feel as if you are pulling up toward the center of the wheel. [C] The centrifugal force of the wheel spinning will make it feel natural for your hands to move outward when pulling the walls up. This is why many people teach starting with a bowl, but it’s why I like starting with a cylinder. Being mindful of movement from the beginning gives you a pathway to success. [D]

STEP 4 This is the time to check in: Are your walls even? Are they still pretty thick? Are they just right? This takes time and experience to understand. A good tip to go by is if your walls are about ¼" (0.635 cm) thick, that is a good time to stop. If they are still too thick, continue the pulling motion one or two more times until you reach your desired thickness. [E]

STEP 5 You might have noticed excess clay at the base of your pot. This is very common. To remove excess clay, use a wooden knife tool. While the wheel is spinning, hold the tool like a pencil and gradually slice through the clay at an angle until you reach the wheel head. [F] Next, hold the knife tool flush against the wheel, and while it is spinning, come underneath the clay until you reach your first mark. [G] Then remove the ring of clay. [H] This step takes practice, so if you don’t get it on your first attempt, keep trying.

STEP 1 Grab your wire tool and carefully place it behind your pot using your thumbs to hold each side down. [A]

STEP 2 Slide your wire tool completely under your pot until you reach the other side, the front. Be careful not to lift your hands up until you have cleared the bottom of the pot.

TIP If this is a practice pot and you want to see how even your walls are, stop halfway and pull the wire tool up through the middle of your pot.

STEP3 Add water behind the pot on the wheel head. Then slide your wire tool underneath again. Be mindful not to lift up too soon; those thumbs really help! The added moisture and second swipe will make it easier to take your pot off the wheel.

STEP 4 Grab your pot lifters, one in each hand, and like a spatula, scoop them underneath your pot. [B] With both hands, use even force and lift your pot off the wheel. Don’t be afraid of this movement. If you gently rock the pot lifters back and forth, you should feel the pot wiggle a little before you lift up. Remember, this is about gently removing the pot off the wheel. Too much force could cause the pot to go flying across the room. [C]

TIP Have your ware board or other surface ready and in an easy to access location before you lift your pot off the wheel. In almost every class, there will be a student taking a pot off the wheel with their pot lifters yelling “Help!” because they forgot they have to put that pot somewhere! It’s funny, but it can definitely lead to disappointment if you drop your pot.

STEP 5 Place your pot and pot lifters on your ware board. Gently press down and outward with your pot lifters and voilà. Your pot is ready for the drying process. For tips on successfully drying pots, skip ahead to here.

GALLERY