Models communicate space, size, and shape to company members who are not familiar with interpreting sketches and construction drawings. Models also help the art director see the set more clearly and make changes that could be expensive once the sets are built. This chapter tells you how to make a simple set model using construction prints.
Models depicting theatrical and architectural structures are usually more detailed than those made for film and video work. A theatrical set model may even have a miniature built-in lighting system to show lighting changes. Architectural models usually contain more detail and show interior structure because architects are concerned with structural engineering. Film and video models commonly show mostly surfaces because those are what the camera sees, not what holds up the set.
We are going to see how to build a simple white model – no color – the purpose of which is to show the scale of the walls, proportions of spaces, and the location of openings. Later, you may want to make models that show color. If so, color the pieces before you put the model together.
First, for any model, determine the scale you wish to use. Our example uses construction prints that we have drawn using a ½" equals 1’ scale. If you want to use a different scale for a model not using prints, remember that you will have to make new drawings to accommodate the different scale.
You will need the following materials before you are ready to make a model:
• Plan and elevation prints
• Metal T-square and triangle
• Drafting tape
• Cutting knife such as an X-acto
• Mat board, tag board, or plastic foam-based board – thick and thin
• Glue of your choice
• Pins – glass-head or pushpins
• Wood – Balsa strips and flat sheets
• Paint, colored pencils, markers (if you wish to color the model)
Start with a Sound Base
Thick foam-based board – a sandwich of two thin sheets of paper or plastic with a core of foam plastic – is rigid and light; a good base material. Use thin sheets of the same material for walls and some details. Mat board, thick paper, tag board, and thin balsa sheets are good wall materials and are easy to cut with a mat knife.
Slicing and Gluing
Cut two pieces of foam board: one plan-view size heavier piece for the model base, and one elevation-size thinner piece for the walls. Always cut away from your body and use your metal T-square or straightedge and a metal triangle. Never cut against any of your wood or plastic-edged tools! Spray glue or rubber cement the plan-view print to the piece of heavier foam board. Leave three inches of space outside the wall lines if you want to place backings outside the windows and doors. Leave room for a title and other information at the lower right corner.
Cement the elevation-view print to the lighter piece of foam board or other thin wall material you’ve chosen and cut the wall views out. With dots of glue, fasten the walls in position on the plan-view base. If you use a lot of glue, the model will be difficult to change later if necessary. If you prefer, you can tape the joints on the back of the corners.
To help model viewers visualize the size of the set, place a simple stylized scale human figure in or near the model as you did on the sketches. To enhance the model’s realism, visit a model shop that stocks scale-model furniture, wallpaper, and bric-a-brac, or make your own from balsa wood. The figure below shows the completed model with title block in the front right corner, which finishes the presentation. When exhibiting your model to those concerned, encourage them to hold the model at eye level, which will give them a better impression of available camera angles. If you must make changes, remember that you have saved the original tracings and can make changes for new prints to use for both construction drawings and a model.
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The sketches, construction drawings, and model have laid the groundwork for the finished set. In the next chapter, we will see that the art director still has a lot to do when supervising construction, stage setup, and set dressing.