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Called the city of parks because of its many leafy squares, Holguín is a colonial town situated between two hills. Holguín is famed for the active part it played in the wars of independence under the leadership of Calixto García, the famous general who liberated the city from the Spanish in 1872.
t A gazebo in leafy Parque Peralta, overlooked by Catedral de San Isidoro
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This large Neo-Classical building was built in 1860 as the private home of Spanish merchant Francisco Roldán y Rodríguez. In 1868, at the beginning of the Ten Years’ War, the building was occupied by the Spanish army and converted into barracks. Hence the building’s nickname, La Periquera, which translates as “parrot cage”, a reference to the brightly coloured uniforms of the Spanish army.
Today, the building is the home of the Museo Provincial de Holguín, where five rooms illustrate the cultural development of the town. Also on display are archaeological relics of the Taíno Indians, who lived here from the 8th to the 15th centuries. The most famous item in the collection is the Hacha de Holguín, a stone axe head carved as a human figure, which has become the symbol of the city.
Holguín’s museum of natural history is housed in a brightly painted building with a handsome portico and Spanish tiling throughout. An interesting collection of birds and shells, including Polymita snails from Baracoa is on display, along with a 50-million-year-old fossil fish, found in the Sierra Maestra.
Great View
Loma de la Cruz
There are marvellous far-reaching vistas from the top of the Loma de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). Although the 458 steps to the top were only added in 1927, this hill was used to plan the orginal grid layout of the town. Every year on 3 May, Christian pilgrims climb up the hill for the Romerías de Mayo.
Consecrated as a cathedral in 1979, San Isidoro was built in 1720 on Parque Peralta, named after Julio Grave de Peralta (1834–72), who led an uprising against Spain in Holguín in October 1868. The square is also known as Parque de Flores because a flower market used to be held here.
The church contains a copy of the popular Madonna of Caridad, the original of which is in the Basilica del Cobre near Santiago de Cuba. On 4 April there is a celebration in honour of the Virgin.
Two blocks north of Parque Calixto García is Bazar de Artesanía, a charming indoor market selling a range of handmade accessories, carved wooden ornaments and seed and resin jewellery. The pedestrianized street outside the market is a peaceful spot to sit.
Situated east of the city centre, this square contains a monument to the heroes of Cuban independence, the mausoleum of Calixto García and a small monument to García’s mother. The square is the main venue for popular festivities in Holguín.
Experience Eastern Cuba
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EAT & DRINK Restaurante Los Almendros Replicating a traditional farmstead, with cowhide seats, this downtown paladar serves the expected meat-based criolla staples, as well as delicious lobster and shrimp dishes. ⌂ Calle José Cardet 68 § (24) 429 652 \ Taberna Pancho Attached to the Hotel Pernik, this bodega offers bargain-priced criolla dishes, including shrimp enchilada, which is best washed down with one of the draft beers on the extensive drinks menu here. ⌂ Avenida Dimitrov § (24) 481 868 \ Casa de la Trova “El Guayabero” This is the place in town to listen to traditional danzón, son and trova. It’s the perfect place to dance the night away, partying with the ebullient locals. ⌂ Calle Maceo 174 § (24) 453 104 Taberna Mayabe Taberna Mayabe is a cosy Spanish bodega-style “pub” serving local Mayabe draft beer. ⌂ Calle Libertad y Aguilera § (24) 461 543 |