PAESTUM
Paestum enjoyed 1,000 years of prosperity, first as Greek Poseidonia, founded in the 7th century BC, then under the Lucanians, then the Romans. But the crumbling of the Roman Empire led to the gradual abandonment of the city and with that, the degradation of the fields, which turned into malaria-ridden swamps. No one dared come near the spot until the 18th century when Charles III of Spain was having a road built; trees were cut down, and there they were – three intact Greek temples. Much more was discovered in the 20th century.
Map of Paestum
NEED TO KNOW
Via Magna Graecia 919 (SS18) • www.museopaestum.beniculturali.it • Open 9am–7:30pm daily; museum: 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm Dec–Feb: €5 site, €4 museum, €6 both; Mar–Nov: €8 site, €6 museum, €12 both
Tourist Information: Via Porta Giustizia; 0828 81 10 16
- Frequent buses run from Salerno to Paestum; at least three buses run daily from Naples – visit www.fsbusitaliacampania.it – or take the train to Paestum Station (1 km/ half a mile from site).
- There are plenty of snacks and light meals available up and down the tourist strip.
- To see the temples at their most evocative, visit at dusk.
1. Walls
At its peak, Paestum was large and prosperous, as evidenced by its impressive 5 km (3 miles) of walls, set off with towers and gates at strategic points.
2. Basilica
The oldest temple on the grounds, from c. 530 BC, was most likely dedicated to two deities, Hera and Zeus.
3. Temple of “Neptune”
The last of the three temples to be built at Paestum, in about 450 BC, is also the finest and the best preserved. It may have been dedicated to Neptune (Poseidon), but some scholars argue for Apollo, and others for Zeus.
Temple of “Neptune”
4. Amphitheatre
This Roman structure dates from the 1st century BC or later, and is only partially excavated, the rest lying under the 18th-century road, but some of the exposed part has been rebuilt. Its capacity was small – only about 2,000 – compared to others in the region.
5. Temple of “Ceres”
Votive offerings found here suggest that this small temple, located further north than the other sites, was actually dedicated to Athena.
6. Museum
This informative museum exhibits finds from this excavation and several important ones nearby. One of those sites is the Sanctuary of Hera Argiva, built by the Greeks at the mouth of the River Sele in about 600 BC. There is a collection of Roman finds upstairs.
An excavated find on display at the museum
7. Tomb Frescoes
Most famous of the exhibits in the museum are the tomb frescoes. Virtually the only examples of ancient Greek painting to survive, they are full of light and bright colours.
Painted Greek Frescoes
8. Sculpture
Prime examples in this category of the museum include archaic metopes (decorative architectural elements) and one of two dancing girls from the Sanctuary of Hera Argiva, so well carved in bas-relief that each of the figures seems to be moving in space.
9. Pottery
Fine examples of Grecian urns are on view, including a krater with red-figured painting on black, depicting a young satyr and a girl reluctant to succumb to his blandishments, and an amphora with black figures on red celebrating the fruit of the vine.
10. Artifacts
Other artifacts here include a bronze vase that contained honey, amazingly still liquid at the time it was found due to unique atmospheric conditions below ground.
MAGNA GRAECIA
Being great seafarers, the ancient Greeks were indefatigable colonizers. Each important city-state sent out expeditions all over the Mediterranean to set up new cities. Magna Graecia (Greater Greece) formed the southern part of the Italian peninsula, along with Sicily, which the Greeks dominated for centuries, until the Romans expanded their hegemony. Paestum (Poseidonia) was one such Greek city, as were Naples (Neopolis), Cumae, and many more.
