Arc de Triomphe

Avenue des Champs-Elysées

One of the most famous avenues in the world came into being when the royal gardener André Le Nôtre planted an arbour of trees beyond the border of the Jardin des Tuileries in 1667. First called the Grand Cours (Great Way), it was later renamed the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In the mid-19th century the avenue acquired pedestrian paths, fountains, gas lights and cafés, and became the fashionable place for socializing and entertainment. Since the funeral of Napoleon in 1840, this wide thoroughfare has also been the route for state processions, victory parades and other city events. The Rond Point des Champs-Elysées is the prettiest part, with chestnut trees and flower beds. In recent years, formerly touristy parts have been revamped and flagship stores of international brands have been welcomed back. A walk along the avenue is still an essential Paris experience.

Grand Palais

This immense belle époque exhibition hall was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. Its splendid glass roof is a landmark of the Champs-Elysées. The façade, the work of three architects, is a mix of Art Nouveau ironwork, Classical stone columns and a mosaic frieze, with bronze horses and chariots at the four corners of the roof. The Galleries du Grand Palais host temporary art exhibitions.

• 3 ave du Général-Eisenhower, 75008

• 01 44 13 17 17

• Open 10am–8pm Thu–Mon, 10am–10pm Wed (daily during exhibitions)

• Closed 1 May, 25 Dec

• Admission charge

Petit Palais

The “little palace” echoes its neighbour in style. Set around a semi-circular courtyard, with Ionic columns and a dome, the building now houses the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris. This includes medieval and Renaissance art, 18th-century furniture and a collection of 19th-century paintings.

• Ave Winston-Churchill, 75008

• 01 53 43 40 00

• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

• Closed public hols

Pont Alexandre III

Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition to carry visitors over the Seine to the Grand and Petit Palais, this bridge is a superb example of the steel architecture and ornate Art Nouveau style popular at the time. Named after Alexander III of Russia, who laid the foundation stone, its decoration displays both Russian and French heraldry. The bridge creates a splendid thoroughfare from the Champs-Elysées to the Invalides (see Pont Alexandre III).

Palais de la Découverte

Set in a wing of the Grand Palais, this museum showcasing scientific discovery was created by a physicist for the World’s Fair of 1937. The exhibits focus on invention and innovation in the sciences, from biology to chemistry, to astronomy and physics, with interactive exhibits and demonstrations (the magnetism show is especially spectacular). There is also a planetarium, while the Planète Terre (Planet Earth) rooms examine global warming.

• Ave Franklin-D-Roosevelt, 75008

• Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm Sun

• Closed most public holidays

• Admission charge

Rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré

Running roughly parallel to the Champs-Elysées, this is Paris’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive. From Christian La Croix and Versace to Gucci and Hermès, the shopfronts read like a Who’s Who of fashion. Even if the prices may be out of reach, window-shopping is fun. There are also elegant antiques and art galleries. Look out for swallows that nest on many of the 19th-century façades.

Avenue Montaigne

In the 19th century the Avenue Montaigne was a nightlife hotspot. Parisians danced the night away at the Mabille Dance Hall until it closed in 1870 and Adolphe Sax made music with his newly invented saxophone in the Winter Garden. Today this chic avenue is a rival to the rue Faubourg-St-Honoré as the home to more haute couture houses such as Christian Dior and Valentino. There are also luxury hotels, top restaurants, popular cafés, and the Comédie des Champs-Elysées and Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

Palais de l’Elysée

Built in 1718, after the Revolution this elegant palace was turned into a dance hall, then, in the 19th century, became the residence of Napoleon’s sister Caroline Murat, followed by his wife Empress Josephine. His nephew, Napoleon III, also lived here while plotting his 1851 coup. Since 1873 it has been home to the president of France. For this reason, it is worth noting that the palace guards don’t like people getting too close to the building (see Palais de l’Elysée).

• 55 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 75008

• Closed to the public

Musée Jacquemart-André

This fine display of art and furniture, once belonging to avid art collectors Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, is housed in a beautiful late 19th-century mansion. It is best known for its Italian Renaissance art, including frescoes by Tiepolo and Paolo Uccello’s St George and the Dragon (c.1435). The reception rooms feature the art of the 18th-century “Ecole française”, with paintings by François Boucher and Jean-Honoré Fragonard. Flemish masters are in the library.

• 158 blvd Haussmann, 75008

• 01 45 62 11 59

• Open 10am–6pm daily

• Admission charge

• www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com

Avenue de Marigny

American author John Steinbeck lived here for five months in 1954 and described Parisians as “the luckiest people in the world”.

8 Rue Artois

Here, in September 2001, the legendary Belgian mobster François Vanverbergh – godfather of the French Connection gang – fell victim to a drive-by assassin as he took his afternoon mineral water.

37 Avenue Montaigne

Having wowed Paris with her comeback performances, iconic German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich spent her reclusive final years in a luxury apartment here.

Pont de l’Alma

Diana, Princess of Wales, was killed in a tragic accident in the underpass here in 1997. Her unofficial monument nearby attracts thousands of visitors each year (see Liberty Flame).

31 Avenue George V, Hôtel George V

A roll-call of rockers – from the Rolling Stones and Jim Morrison to J-Lo and Ricky Martin – have made this their regular Paris home-from-home.

Hôtel d’Elysée-Palace

Mata Hari, the Dutch spy and exotic dancer, set up her lair in Room 113 before finally being arrested outside 25 Avenue Montaigne.

37 Avenue George V

Franklin D. Roosevelt and his new bride visited his aunt’s apartment here in 1905. He was later commemorated in the name of a nearby avenue.

49 Avenue des Champs-Elysées

Author Charles Dickens may well have had “the best of times and the worst of times” when he resided here from 1855–6. Ten years earlier he had also lived at 38 Rue de Courcelles.

114 Avenue des Champs-Elysées

Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont planned many of his amazing aeronautical feats – notably that of circling the Eiffel Tower in an airship in 1901 – from this address.

102 Boulevard Haussmann

Hypochondriac author Marcel Proust lived in a soundproofed room here, turning memories into a masterwork.

1616

Paris’s grand avenue was first laid out when Marie de Médici, wife of Henri IV, had a carriage route, the Cours-la-Reine (Queen’s Way), constructed through the marshland along the Seine.

1667

Landscape gardener Le Nôtre lengthened the Jardin des Tuileries to meet the Cours-la-Reine, and opened up the view with a double row of chestnut trees, creating the Grand Cours.

1709

The avenue was re-named the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields were the “place of ideal happiness”, the abode of the blessed after death.

1724

The Duke of Antin, overseer of the royal gardens, extended the avenue to the heights of Chaillot, the present site of the Arc de Triomphe.

1774

Architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot lowered the hill of the Champs-Elysées by 5 m (16 ft) to reduce the steep gradient, therefore making an easier and safer passage for residents’ horses and carriages.

26 August 1944

Parisians celebrated the liberation of the city from the German Nazi Occupation of World War II with triumphant processions and festivities.

30 May 1968

The infamous student demonstrations of May 1968, when student protests against state authority spilled over into riots and massive gatherings. De Gaulle and his supporters held a huge counter-demonstration here, marking a turning point in the uprising.

12 November 1970

The death of President Charles de Gaulle was an immense event in France, as he had been the single most dominant French political figure for 30 years. He was honoured by a silent march along the Champs-Elysées.

14 July 1989

The parade on Bastille Day marking the bicentennial of the Revolution, was a dazzling display of folk culture and avant-garde theatre. It was a distinct change from the usual military events, and was organized by Mitterand’s Culture Minister, Jack Lang.

12 July 1998

Huge, ecstatic crowds packed the Champs-Elysées to celebrate France’s football team winning the World Cup. People came from all over Paris to join in the festivities that captured the nation’s imagination.

Christian Dior

The grey and white decor, with silk bows on chairs, makes a chic backdrop for fashions from lingerie to evening wear.

• 30 ave Montaigne, 75008

Chanel

Chanel classics, from the braided tweed jackets to two-toned shoes as well as Lagerfeld’s more daring designs, are displayed in this branch of the main rue Cambon store.

• 42 ave Montaigne, 75008

Nina Ricci Mode

After treating yourself to the gorgeous lingerie or jewellery, go round the corner on rue François 1er to The Ricci Club for menswear or the discount shop where last year’s fashions are sold.

• 39 ave Montaigne, 75008

Emanuel Ungaro

This shop carries the less expensive U line as well as Ungaro’s main collection.

• 2 ave Montaigne, 75008

Boutique Prada

The signature bags, shoes and leather goods are displayed on the ground floor, while the fashions are upstairs.

• 10 ave Montaigne, 75008

Joseph

The largest of the four Joseph stores in Paris, selling knitwear, evening wear and accessories.

• 14 ave Montaigne, 75008

Jil Sander

Minimal and modern store, just like the clothes. Sander’s trouser suits, cashmere dresses and overcoats in neutral colours are displayed on four floors.

• 52 ave Montaigne, 75008

Chloé

Simple, classy, ready-to-wear designer womens’ clothes and accessories are sold in this minimalist temple of feminine chic.

• 44 ave Montaigne, 75008

Valentino

The Milanese designer’s range of sophisticated clothes for the society set and casual fashions for the younger Miss Valentino label are displayed in this elegant marble boutique.

• 17–19 ave Montaigne, 75008

MaxMara

The chic Italian womens-wear label promotes a sleek, well-groomed look with beautiful fabrics. Suits, coats, evening wear and the trendier Sportmax line are sold here.

• 31 ave Montaigne, 75008

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

Superchef Alain Ducasse’s flagship restaurant. Langoustines with caviar is just one mouth­watering bite (see Le Jules Verne).

Hôtel Plaza Athénée

• 25 ave Montaigne, 75008

• 01 53 67 65 00

• Closed Mon–Wed L, Sat– Sun

• €€€€€

Guy Savoy

Another star chef, Guy Savoy is experimental with his food..

• 18 rue Troyon, 75017

• 01 43 80 40 61

• Closed Sat L, Sun–Mon

• €€€€€

Les Ambassadeurs

Jacket and tie are required here. Filet mignon of suckling pig is one speciality.

Hôtel de Crillon

• 10 pl de la Concorde, 75008

• 01 44 71 16 16

• €€€€€

Spoon, Food and Wine

Alain Ducasse’s hip and innovative offshoot.

• 14 rue de Marignan, 75008

• 01 40 76 34 44

• Closed Sat–Sun, Aug

• €€€€€

Taillevent

One of the city’s best dining experiences. Langoustine parcels with shellfish pastry is a signature dish (see Taillevent).

• 15 rue Lamennais, 75008

• 01 44 95 15 01

• Closed Sat–Sun, Aug

• €€€€€

Gagnaire

Chef Pierre Gagnaire is legendary for his artistry for blending flavours, such as lamb cutlets with truffles.

• 6 rue Balzac, 75008

• 01 58 36 12 50

• Closed Sat–Sun, mid-Jul–mid-Aug

• No disabled access

• €€€€€

Granterroirs

This relaxed grocery store-cum-bistro serves excellent, affordable food – a rarity in these parts.

• 30 rue de Miromesnil, 75008

• 01 47 42 18 18

• Closed Sat–Sun, Aug

• €€

Le Boeuf sur le Toit

Fabulous Art Deco setting, and andouillettes (tripe sausages) are one speciality.

• 34 rue du Colisée, 75008

• 01 53 93 65 55

• No disabled access

• €€€

L’Atelier des Chefs

This popular cooking school charges €15 per hour (30 minutes of cooking followed by a meal). Classes are in French, though English translations are available.

• 10 rue de Penthièvre, 75008

• 01 53 30 05 82

• €

Le Cinq

The George V’s stunning restaurant serves superb French cuisine with a fresh twist.

• 31 ave George V, 75008

• 01 49 52 70 00

• €€€€€