Jardin des Plantes

The 17th-century royal medicinal herb garden was planted by Jean Hérouard and Guy de la Brosse, physicians to Louis XIII. Opened to the public in 1640, it flourished under the curatorship of Comte de Buffon. It contains some 10,000 species, including the first Cedar of Lebanon planted in a French tropical greenhouse, and Alpine, rose and winter gardens (see Jardine des Plantes Sights).

• 57 rue Cuvier, 75005

• 01 40 79 30 00

• Open 8am–5:30pm daily, to 6pm summer

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Separate pavilions in the Jardin des Plantes house exhibits on anatomy, fossils, geology, mineralogy and insects. The Grande Galerie de l’Evolution is a magnificent collection of stuffed African mammals, a giant whale skeleton and an endangered species exhibit (see Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle).

• 57 rue Cuvier, 75005

• Pavilions: open 10am–5pm Wed–Mon; Evolution Gallery: open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon

• Closed 1 May

• Admission charge

• www.mnhn.fr

Ménagerie

The country’s oldest public zoo was founded during the Revolution to house the four surviving animals from the royal menagerie at Versailles. Other animals were donated from circuses and abroad, but during the Siege of Paris in 1870–71 (see Liberation of Paris) the unfortunate creatures were eaten by hungry citizens. A favourite with children (see Children’s Attractions), the zoo has since been restocked.

• Jardin des Plantes, 75005

• Open 9am–5pm daily

• Admission charge

Institut du Monde Arabe

This institute was founded in 1980 to promote cultural relations between France and the Arab world. The stunning building (1987) designed by architect Jean Nouvel (see Musée du Quai Branly) features a southern wall of 1,600 photo-sensitive metal screens that open and close like camera apertures to regulate light entering the building. The design is based on the latticed wooden screens of Islamic architecture. Inside are seven floors of Islamic artworks, from 9th-century ceramics to contemporary art, and a fine restaurant.

• 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 75005

• 01 40 51 38 11

• Open 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun

• Admission charge

• www.imarabe.org

Mosquée de Paris

Built in 1922–6, the mosque complex is the spiritual centre for Parisian Muslims (see Mosquée de Paris). The beautiful Hispano-Moorish decoration, particularly the grand patio, was inspired by the Alhambra in Spain. The minaret soars nearly 33 m (100 ft). There is also an Islamic school, tea room and Turkish baths, open to men and women on separate days.

• 2 bis pl du Puits-de-l’Ermité, 75005

• Tours: 9am– noon, 2– 6pm Sat–Thu

• closed Islamic hols

• Admission charge

Rue Mouffetard

Although the rue Mouffetard is famous today for its lively street market held every Tuesday to Sunday, it has an equally colourful past. In Roman times this was the main road from Paris to Rome. Some say its name comes from the French word mouffette (skunk), as a reference to the odorous River Bièvre (now covered over) where waste was dumped by tanners and weavers from the nearby Gobelins tapestry factory. Though no longer poor or Bohemian, the neighbourhood still has lots of character, with its 17th-century mansard roofs, old-fashioned painted shop signs and affordable restaurants. In the market you can buy everything from Auvergne sausage to horse meat and ripe cheeses.

Arènes de Lutèce

The remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre from the settlement of Lutetia (see Roman Settlement) lay buried for centuries and were only discovered in 1869 during construction of the rue Monge. The novelist Victor Hugo, concerned with the preservation of his city’s historic buildings, including Notre-Dame (see The Man Who Saved Notre-Dame), led the campaign for the restoration. The original arena would have had 35 tiers and could seat 15,000 spectators for theatrical performances and gladiator fights.

• 49 rue Monge, 75005

• Open 9am–9pm daily (summer); 8am–5pm daily (winter)

• Free

Place de la Contrescarpe

This bustling square has a village community feel, with busy cafés and restaurants and groups of students from the nearby university hanging out here after dark. In medieval times it lay outside the city walls, a remnant of which still stands. Notice the memorial plaque above the butcher’s at No. 1, which marks the site of the old Pine Cone Club, a café where François Rabelais and other writers gathered in the 16th century.

St-Médard

The church at the bottom of rue Mouffetard dates back to the 9th century, when it was a parish church dedicated to St Médard, counsellor to the Merovingian kings. The present church, completed in 1655, is a mixture of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles. Among the fine paintings inside is the 17th-century St Joseph Walking with the Christ Child by Francisco de Zurbarán. The churchyard was the scene of hysterical fits in the 18th century, when a cult of “convulsionnaires” sought miracle cures at the grave of a Jansenist deacon.

• 141 rue Mouffetard, 75005

• Open 9am–noon, 2:30–7pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun

• Free

Manufacture des Gobelins

This internationally renowned tapestry factory was originally a dyeing workshop, founded by the Gobelin brothers in the mid-15th century. In 1662, Louis XIV’s minister Colbert set up a royal factory here and gathered the greatest craftsmen of the day to make furnishings for the palace at Versailles. You can see the traditional weaving process on a guided tour.

• 42 ave des Gobelins, 75013

• Metro Gobelins

• Tours: 2pm and 3pm Tue–Thu (arrive 30 minutes prior), open for temporary exhibitions only noon–6pm Tue–Sun

• Tickets must be bought prior to the visit at a branch of FNAC

Dinosaur Tree

One of the trees in the Botanical Gardens is a Ginkgo biloba, which is 150 years old but the species is known to have existed in exactly the same form in the days of the dinosaurs, 125 million years ago.

Cedar of Lebanon

This magnificent tree was planted in 1734, and came from London’s Botanic Gardens in Kew, although a story grew up that its seed was brought here all the way from Syria in the hat of a scientist.

Rose Garden

Although only a fairly recent addition, being planted in 1990, the beautiful roseraie has some 170 species of roses and 180 rose bushes on display. Spectacular when they are in full bloom in spring and summer.

Alpine Gardens

One of the stars of the Botanical Gardens, with more than 3,000 plants from the world’s many diverse Alpine regions. There are samples from Corsica to the Caucasus, Morocco and the Himalayas.

Sophora of Japan

Sent to Paris under the label “unknown seeds from China” by a Jesuit naturalist living in the Orient, this tree was planted in 1747, first flowered in 1777, and still flowers today.

Iris Garden

An unusual feature is this designated garden which brings together more than 400 different varieties of iris.

Dinosaur Model

Outside the Palaeontology Gallery, which is crammed with precious dinosaur skeletons, is a huge dinosaur model of a stegosaurus (see Grande Galerie de l’Evolution).

Nile Crocodile

The crocodile in the Reptile House now has a better home than he once did. This creature was found in a Paris hotel room, left behind as an unwanted pet! It has yet to reach its full size of 5 m (16.5 ft).

Greenhouses

Otherwise known as Les Grandes Serres, these 19th-century greenhouses were at one time the largest in the world. Today, they house a prickly Mexican cacti garden and a tropical winter garden kept at a constant 22°C (74°F) and 80 per cent humidity.

Young Animal House

One of the zoo’s most popular features for children is this house where young creatures, which for one reason or another cannot be looked after by their natural parents, are raised. Once they reach adulthood they are returned to their natural habitat.

Le Terroir

The kind of place locals like to keep secret, because it’s good, inexpensive and has a great atmosphere.

• 11 blvd Arago, 75013

• Metro Gobelins

• 01 47 07 36 99

• Closed Sat–Sun, Easter, Aug

• €€€

Léna et Mimile

Those in the know avoid the touristy restaurants around rue Mouffetard to savour a meal at this ambitious bistro with a peaceful terrace.

• 32 rue Tournefort, 75005

• 01 47 07 72 47

• €€€

Au Petit Marguery

One for meat lovers, with plenty of steak, veal and game on the menu. Boisterous atmosphere.

• 9 blvd de Port-Royal, 75013

• 01 43 31 58 59

• Closed Sun pm

• No vegetarian options

• €€€€

Le Buisson Ardent

This creative bistro is a romantic nighttime destination.

• 25 rue Jussieu, 75005

• 01 43 54 93 02

• Closed Sun, Sat L

• €€€

La Truffière

A 17th-century building, a wood fire and welcoming staff all make for a great little bistro. Naturally, the menu features truffles.

• 4 rue Blainville, 75005

• 01 46 33 29 82

• Closed Sun, Mon

• €€€€€

Restaurant Marty

An Art Deco brasserie serving delicious classics such as pan-fried foie-gras with apples, and Provençal-style scallops.

• 20 ave des Gobelins, 75005

• Metro Gobelins

• 01 43 31 59 51

• €€€

Chez Paul

Not the best place for vegetarians, with pot au feu, tongue and other meaty delights, but there is also fish.

• 22 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 75013

• Metro Place d’Italie

• 01 45 89 22 11

• €€€

Au Coco de Mer

Spicy Seychelles cuisine, plus a “beach hut” terrace with soft sand. Vegetarians should book ahead.

• 34 blvd St-Marcel, 75005

• 01 47 07 06 64

• Closed Sun, Mon L, Aug

• €€

L’Avant-Goût

Small and noisy with tables crammed together. Try the pork pot au feu or apple flan, if available, though the menu changes daily.

• 26 rue Bobillot, 75013

• Metro Place d’Italie

• 01 53 80 24 00

• Closed Sun–Mon

• €€

Chez Gladine

A lively atmosphere with waiters running around serving huge portions of Basque cuisine. Arrive early to get a table.

• 30 rue des Cinq Diamants, 75013

• 01 45 80 70 10

• Open daily

• €