Tuileries and Opéra Quarters
These two quarters were once the province of the rich and the royal. Adjoining the Tuileries Gardens is the largest museum in the world, the Louvre, while the grand opera house gives the second quarter its name. The Place de la Concorde is one of the most historic sites in the city.
Storming of the TuileriesLooking at the Tuileries Gardens now, where children play and lovers stroll, it is hard to imagine the scenes that took place here on 20 June 1792. The palace and gardens were invaded by French citizens seeking to overthrow the monarchy. This was finally achieved on 10 August, when the Tuileries Palace was sacked and Louis XVI overthrown. |
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Sights
Rue de Rivoli
Commissioned by Napoleon and named after his victory over the Austrians at Rivoli in 1797, this grand street links the Louvre with the Champs-Elysées. It was intended as a backdrop for victory marches but was not finished until the 1850s, long after the emperor’s death. Along one side, railings replaced the old Tuileries walls, opening up the view, while opposite, Neo-Classical apartments sit atop the long arcades. These are now filled with a mix of shops, selling luxury goods or tourist souvenirs.
Place de la Concorde
This historic octagonal square, covering more than 8 ha (20 acres), is bounded by the Tuileries Gardens on one side and marks the starting point of the Champs-Elysées on the other. It was built between 1755–75 to designs by architect Jacques-Ange Gabriel as the grand setting for a statue of Louis XV, but by 1792 it had become the place de la Révolution and its central monument was the guillotine. Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette and more than 1,000 others were executed here (see The Guillotine). In 1795, in the spirit of reconciliation, it received its present name. The central obelisk, 23 m (75 ft) tall and covered in hieroglyphics, is from a 3,300-year-old Luxor temple, and was a gift from Egypt, erected in 1833. Two fountains and eight statues representing French cities were also added. On the north side of the square are the mansions Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel Crillon, also by Gabriel.
Jardin des Tuileries
These gardens (see Jardin des Tuileries) were first laid out as part of the old Tuileries Palace, which was built for Catherine de Médici in 1564 but burned down in 1871. André Le Nôtre redesigned them into formal French gardens in 1664. At the Louvre end is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, erected by Napoleon in 1808. Here is also the entrance to the underground shopping centre, the Carrousel du Louvre. Nearby, sensuous nude sculptures by Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) adorn the ornamental pools and walkways. At the far end is the hexagonal pool, the Jeu de Paume gallery and the Musée de l’Orangerie, famous for its giant canvases of Monet waterlilies.
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
This huge collection covers the decorative arts from the Middle Ages through to the 20th century. With more than 100 rooms, the many highlights include the Medieval and Renaissance rooms, the Art Deco rooms, and a wonderful jewellery collection. Also in the same building are the Musée de la Mode and the Musée de la Publicité, which are open for temporary exhibitions and worth a visit.
107 rue de Rivoli, 75001
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri (until 9pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun
Admission charge
Art Nouveau Museum
This small museum (part of Maxim’s restaurant and downstairs nightclub) houses Pierre Cardin’s impressive Art Nouveau collection – an elegant assembly of 550 works of art designed by big names such as Tiffany, Toulouse-Lautrec, Galle Massier and Marjorelle. A guided visit can be combined with lunch in the glamorous restaurant.
3 rue Royale, 75008
Open 2pm–5:30pm Wed–Sun
guided tours 3:15pm, 4pm, 4:30pm, tour and lunch at Maxim’s noon
Adm
Palais-Royal
In the late 18th century this former royal palace and garden underwent extensive changes under the dukes of Orléans. The architect, Victor Louis, was commissioned to build 60 uniformly styled houses around three sides of the square and the adjacent theatre, which now houses the Comédie Française, France’s national theatre. Today the arcades house specialist shops, galleries and restaurants, and the courtyard and gardens contain modern works of art (see Palais-Royal).
Pl du Palais Royal, 75001
Public access to gardens and arcades only
Palais Royal courtyard
Place Vendôme
Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles, designed the façades of this elegant royal square for Louis XIV in 1698. Originally intended for foreign embassies, bankers soon moved in and built lavish dwellings. It remains home to jewellers and financiers today. The world-famous Ritz hotel was established here at the turn of the 20th century. The central column, topped by a statue of Napoleon, is a replica of the one destroyed by the Commune in 1871.
Opéra National de Paris Garnier
Designed by Charles Garnier for Napoleon III in 1862, Paris’ opulent opera house took 13 years to complete. A range of styles from Classical to Baroque incorporates stone friezes and columns, statues and a green, copper cupola. The ornate interior has a Grand Staircase, mosaic domed ceiling over the Grand Foyer and an auditorium with a ceiling by Marc Chagall. There’s even an underground lake – the inspiration for Gaston Leroux’s Phantom of the Opera – sadly closed to visitors (see Entertainment Venues).
Pl de l’Opéra, 75009
01 40 01 17 89
Open 10am–5:30pm daily (closes at 1pm on day of matinee performances; closed some dates in Dec)
Admission charge
Opéra de Paris Garnier façade
Place de la Madeleine
Surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, the huge Classical-style La Madeleine church commands this elegant square. On the east side a colourful flower market is held Tuesday to Saturday. The square is surrounded by some of the most up-market épiceries (food stores) and speciality shops in the city (see Au Verger de la Madeleine).
A Day in the Tuileries
Morning
Visiting the Louvre takes planning, and you should get there at least 15 minutes before opening (unless you’ve already bought your ticket). Spend the whole morning and pick up a map as you enter so that you can be sure to see the main highlights. Have a morning coffee in the elegant Richelieu, Denon or Mollien cafés within the museum.
From the Louvre, either visit the Carrousel du Louvre’s underground shops or walk along rue de Rivoli towards place de la Concorde . This end of the street is filled with souvenir shops but avoid the overpriced cafés and turn right to rue Mondavi for a good lunch at Lescure, a little rustic bistro (
7 rue de Mondovi
01 42 60 18 91
Closed Sat, Sun
Afternoon
After being indoors all morning, get some fresh air in the Jardin des Tuileries then walk down to place de la Madeleine to spend the afternoon browsing and shopping in its many food stores or visit the Art Nouveau Museum. Later, take tea in the restaurant of one of the best shops Hédiard .
If you are on a budget, and plan to visit the Louvre on Wednesday or Friday, reverse this itinerary, as admission is cheaper after 6pm. Late-night opening allows you over three hours in the museum. Remember the Louvre is free to everyone under 18 and anyone under 26 from the EU.
Food Shops
Au Verger de la Madeleine
Vintage wines are the speciality at this store. The owner will help you find a wine to match the year of any special occasion.
4 blvd Malesherbes, 75008
Caviar Kaspia
The peak of indulgence. Caviars from around the world, plus smoked eels, salmon and other fishy fare.
17 pl de la Madeleine, 75008
La Maison de la Truffe
France’s finest black truffles are sold here during the winter truffle season, and you can get preserved truffles and other delicacies the rest of the year.
19 pl de la Madeleine, 75008
Boutique Maille
The retail outlet for one of France’s finest mustard-makers. Try flavoured mustards with Cognac or champagne, exclusive limited editions and lovely ceramic jars.
6 pl de la Madeleine, 75008
Marquise de Sévigné
A superb chocolate shop and salon, where you can have a tea, coffee or hot chocolate at the bar and sample the sweets too.
32 pl de la Madeleine, 75008
Betjeman and Barton
This tea shop offers some 200 varieties from all over the world, as well as wacky teapots.
23 blvd Malesherbes, 75008
Ladurée
A splendid belle époque tea salon that has been serving the best macaroons in Paris since 1862.
16 rue Royale, 75008
Places to Eat
L’Espadon
Superb cuisine from acclaimed chef Michel Roth.
Hôtel Ritz
15 pl Vendôme, 75001
01 43 16 30 80
Le Grand Véfour
This beautiful 18th-century restaurant with two Michelin stars is a gourmet treat.
17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001
01 42 96 56 27
Closed Fri D, Sat–Sun, Aug
No disabled access
Senderens
Chef Alain Senderens famously renounced his three Michelin stars, but has maintained the superb quality of the food.
9 pl de la Madeleine, 75008
01 42 65 22 90
Open daily
No disabled access
Le Zinc d’Honoré
Join the lunchtime business crowds and the evening theatre-goers for well-priced bistro cuisine.
36 Place du Marché St-Honoré, 75001
Open daily
Higuma
This no-frills Japanese noodle house serves great value food.
32 bis rue Sainte-Anne, 75001
01 47 03 38 59
Il Cortile
Italian specialities such as veal with sage and strawberry soup, are served on a lovely patio in summer.
Hotel de Castille
37 rue Cambon, 75001
01 44 58 45 67
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug
Willi’s Wine Bar
This cosy bar and dining room is a popular haunt for lovers of modern French food and wines from small producers.
13 rue des Petits-Champs, 75001
01 42 61 05 09
Closed Sun
Restaurant du Paris Royal
Contemporary French cooking is served in the bucolic Palais Royal gardens.
110 galerie de Valois, 75001
01 40 20 00 27
Closed Sun
No disabled access
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