Plan a Backup Strategy

This book focuses on the strategies, hardware, and software I can most heartily recommend based on extensive personal and professional experience. I’m going to give you my expert advice, and although that will include areas in which you can choose among several options, in this book I’m framing the decision simply: I’ll be telling you, “Today’s choices are lasagna, fried rice, and ratatouille (and by the way, my lasagna is pretty darn good)” instead of saying, “Choose anything from the Joy of Cooking.”

If you follow my suggestions, you can rest easy knowing that your data is safe—and you won’t break the bank or waste days of work setting things up. And even if you opt out of any of the three main components I recommend in my basic backup strategy, you’ll do so with both eyes open.

Understand Joe’s Basic Backup Strategy

Since I started writing about Mac backups in 2004, the basic strategy I’ve followed and recommended has consisted of three main components. Now, for the first time, I’m altering my practices and recommendations. There are still three components, but one of them is now optional, and carried out differently than before:

  • Versioned backups: Use Time Machine or another backup app to store versioned backups—multiple copies of each file, so you have both the latest version and numerous previous versions. Update your versioned backups incrementally (copying only new or changed data each time) at least daily, and preferably more often.

  • Bootable duplicate: Optionally, depending on your circumstances, create a bootable duplicate of your startup volume on an external SSD or hard drive, and update it regularly. (I explain my new reasoning in Why Create Bootable Duplicates (or Not)?.) If you choose not to create a bootable duplicate, you might want to add something else in its place or make other alterations to your strategy; see Alternatives to Bootable Duplicates.

  • Offsite copies: Keep at least one backup copy of your important data somewhere safely away from your Mac—in another building, at least, and perhaps even in another part of the world (in the latter case, by using a cloud backup service).

In some cases, you might be able to use a single backup drive for both versioned backups and a bootable duplicate—for example, by dividing it into two partitions (see Why Use Multiple Partitions (or Not)?) or by using backup software that creates a versioned bootable duplicate (see Bootable Duplicates with Versioning). Otherwise, you’ll want a separate drive for each type of backup, though even if you use a combined drive, you might choose to add a second drive for extra peace of mind. I also discuss using online storage for versioned backups, which counts as an offsite copy and could reduce the amount of hardware you must buy.

Furthermore, my goal is to automate nearly all of this so that, to the extent possible, backups happen in the background without your having to remember anything, press buttons, run apps, or intervene in any other way. And I’ll try to make even the setup process as painless as possible.

Because I want you to understand why I make the recommendations I do and how the whole process works, I spend just a few pages describing my suggested backup strategy in more detail and outlining what choices you’ll make along the way. (If you’re already on board with my basic strategy, you can skip these details and go straight to Choose Backup Software.) As you read, I suggest that you jot down a few notes about hardware that you may want to purchase, software features that seem important to you, or special questions relating to your circumstances to keep in mind as you continue reading the book.

Later on, I provide instructions for every part of the process, so don’t worry if the details still feel fuzzy as you read this introductory topic. I also talk about situations in which this basic strategy requires modifications—for example, when you’re backing up multiple computers on a network, or backing up a laptop Mac while traveling.

Why Create Versioned Backups?

Time Machine and most other backup apps protect data by using versioned backups—that is, backing up your files without overwriting or deleting earlier versions already stored on your backup media. The first time your backup software runs, it copies all your files in their entirety; then, on subsequent runs, it performs an incremental update—that is, it copies only new or changed data. In some cases, incrementally updating a backup means copying each file that has changed in its entirety; in other cases, backup apps copy only the changed portions of files. The latter approach, which I refer to as Delta Encoding, is faster and uses less storage space.

You might be tempted to believe that all those extra versions of your files are a waste of space, but because both humans and computers make mistakes, this type of backup can come in extremely handy.

Let’s say your only backup is a duplicate of your entire disk and you update it every Wednesday. On Tuesday, you accidentally delete a file, but you don’t realize that until Thursday. Too bad: it’s not in your backup, because in the process of duplicating your disk, you also deleted any files on the duplicate that weren’t on the original. Ironically, the more frequently you update your duplicate, the greater the chances of encountering this problem!

Or consider this situation: A buggy app writes some data to the wrong place, damaging numerous files. Again, you don’t realize right away that there’s a problem, and you update your backup. Sure, you have a backup, but it’s a backup of corrupted data!

You may not notice a missing or damaged file for weeks or months. So it pays to maintain versioned backups that go back as far as possible. (For practical reasons, I’d say that a year’s worth is probably enough.)

Although a bootable duplicate includes a single copy of your data, a versioned backup includes many different versions of your data—including, crucially, copies of files that have since been deleted. This makes it much more likely that you’ll be able to retrieve the files you need in the event of a problem. Don’t get hung up on the word “version,” because even if you never need to see a previous version of a file, you may want to see a file that was accidentally deleted, damaged, or overwritten. And, because versioned backups can be updated much more quickly and easily than bootable duplicates (sometimes as often as every time you save, or as seldom as once a day), your prospects of recovering from data loss are much better than with duplicates alone.

You might create your versioned backups with Time Machine. It’s easy to use, and the cost is right: it’s included with macOS. Time Machine isn’t perfect for everyone, though, and I say more about why you might consider something different (and what to choose if so) in Decide Whether Time Machine Is Best for You.

Most people need versioned backups (including those who rely on Autosave and Versions in macOS; see Version Control), but in some cases I can truthfully say they’re unnecessary. If you create very little new content on your Mac, using it mainly to surf the web, play games, or consume streaming content, versioned backups won’t benefit you much. Or, if you do create lots of content but store it mostly in the cloud—especially using services that already store multiple versions of your files, such as Dropbox and Google Docs—then again, having (local) versioned backups may be overkill. But the more you use your Mac to create and store unique information, the more valuable versioned backups become.

Why Create Bootable Duplicates (or Not)?

Ever since I started writing about Mac backups, I’ve strongly recommended that everyone create and maintain bootable duplicates in addition to versioned backups. A bootable duplicate is a complete copy of your startup volume stored on another drive, such that if the startup volume or the drive it resides on ever goes south, you can start up your Mac—or possibly even a different Mac—from your backup drive and get back to work in minutes (instead of hours or days). Bootable duplicates also give you insurance against software updates gone bad. If you install a new version of macOS and encounter compatibility problems, you can quickly revert your disk to the way it was before.

Although that’s still true in principle, the reality has become vastly more complicated in recent years. Apple’s switch to using SSDs as primary storage for most Macs, the introduction of recovery mode and its various iterations, the transition to the APFS file system (starting in macOS 10.13 High Sierra), the T2 security chip, and significant architectural changes in both macOS 10.15 Catalina and macOS 11 Big Sur all changed the calculus considerably. But the introduction of M-series (Apple silicon) Macs represents an even more dramatic shift in how macOS handles bootable duplicates.

The net result of all these changes is twofold. On the one hand, bootable duplicates are far less useful and less necessary than they once were, especially in terms of the primary goal of getting you back to work quickly after a disk failure. On the other hand, it’s become increasingly difficult to create bootable duplicates in the first place, to keep them updated, and to boot from them should the need arise.

For these reasons, I’m now changing my advice. I still explain how to make and use a bootable duplicate, for those who choose to do so; however, because the process has become far more cumbersome for those using Big Sur or later, and worse still for those using M-series Macs, my revised recommendation is that bootable duplicates should be routine only for people running Catalina or earlier (which also implies using Intel-based Macs). Furthermore, anyone whose startup volume uses the APFS file system (see APFS Evolves Further) should use an external SSD, not a hard drive, to store their duplicate, and if you can’t do so for any reason, a duplicate is almost certainly not worth the effort.

Apart from routine duplicates, you may choose to make a one-off duplicate on a special occasion (such as when you’re about to upgrade to a major new version of macOS). But even then, my feeling is that in most cases other types of backup can be suitable if you follow certain guidelines; see Alternatives to Bootable Duplicates.

If you’re content with the summary above, terrific; move on to Why Use External Storage?. However, if you’re curious about the details of all the factors affecting bootable duplicates, read on.

SSDs as Primary Storage

Nearly all Macs nowadays have internal SSDs, rather than mechanical hard drives. In fact, the sole exception among Macs for sale at publication time is the 21.5-inch iMac, which can optionally be configured with a 1 TB Fusion drive. (Fusion drives combine a small SSD with a larger mechanical hard drive.)

Although SSDs can and do fail, they’re less prone to failure than hard drives and so have longer average lifespans. (I should add that there are many types of SSD, and the evidence thus far suggests that the ones Apple puts in its Macs are on the higher end of the reliability scale.) So, the odds of suffering the sort of disk failure that would lead to having to boot from a duplicate are lower with an SSD-equipped Mac, making a bootable duplicate that much less crucial.

Recovery Mode

In 2011, Mac OS X 10.7 Lion introduced a mechanism that has gone by various names and now seems to be primarily called recovery mode. When you install macOS, the installer creates a special, hidden partition, which contains just enough of the operating system to boot your Mac and enable you to run Disk Utility, restore a Time Machine backup, reinstall macOS, and do a few other maintenance tasks. The idea is that if something bad happens to your macOS installation or the disk it’s stored on, then even if you don’t have a bootable installer of some sort, you can repair your Mac simply by restarting it in this special mode. (See the sidebar Something Recovery Something for details.)

In addition, most Intel Macs released since around 2010 have Internet Recovery built in, or can have their firmware updated to support it. Internet Recovery gives you a recovery option even if the Recovery HD partition is missing or damaged: as long as you have an internet connection, you can boot your Mac over the internet and then download and install a fresh copy of macOS. M-series Macs don’t have a special mode that’s explicitly called Internet Recovery, but they can still boot from the Recovery HD partition and then download and reinstall macOS, so the underlying capability is there.

Booting in recovery mode doesn’t enable you to open your apps or access all your files, but it does make fixing common problems, restoring data from a Time Machine backup, or reinstalling macOS relatively quick and painless. As a result, more often than not, recovery mode enables you to get back to work after a disk failure reasonably quickly.

The APFS File System

APFS is the name of Apple’s modern file system, which replaces Mac OS Extended (also known as HFS Plus). Apple added preliminary, experimental support for APFS in macOS 10.12 Sierra. In 10.13 High Sierra, SSD boot drives were converted automatically to APFS upon installation, and in 10.14 Mojave all boot drives (including Fusion drives and mechanical hard drives) were converted to APFS.

Although APFS is fantastic in many ways—more reliable, more secure, and more flexible than the older Mac OS Extended file system—it was designed primarily for SSDs. You can certainly format a mechanical hard drive using APFS, and it will sort of work, but actually booting macOS and running apps from an APFS-formatted hard drive is excruciatingly slow. It’s so slow as to be, in my opinion, virtually unusable, and thus something to be avoided except in the most dire circumstances. (The slow speed of APFS on mechanical hard drives is less of an issue—which is not to say irrelevant—for non-bootable backup volumes.)

You can see the problem. Say you’re cloning your SSD onto an APFS-formatted hard drive, with the idea that you’ll run your Mac from that drive in an emergency instead of waiting for a backup to restore; then an emergency arises and you boot from that drive. Booting alone might take a half hour or more. Opening individual apps could take multiple minutes. Everything you do while running from that drive will be painfully slow. Thus, you’ll lose the “get back to work more quickly than restoring a backup” advantage.

Fortunately, you can choose an external SSD rather than a hard drive for your duplicate, and prices have fallen enough that this is a reasonable tactic for most people. Running your Mac from an external SSD formatted as APFS is fine, speed-wise. However, other gotchas still exist, especially in Big Sur or later.

T2 Chips

The T2 security chip, which made its first appearance in the 2017 iMac Pro and has been present in most Intel Macs since, increases your Mac’s security in several different ways. Although the T2 chip doesn’t prevent you from creating a bootable duplicate, it does prevent you from booting from that duplicate (or indeed any external drive) unless you first follow a highly unintuitive procedure to change a security setting. (See the Note in Test Your Bootable Duplicate for instructions.) To be sure, it’s not a catastrophe, but it is an inconvenience when you’re trying to get back to work quickly after a disk problem.

Although Apple’s M-series chips have security features similar to those in the T2 chip, M-series Macs do not require this extra procedure to boot from an external drive, though they do require a different procedure (also described in Test Your Bootable Duplicate) the first time you boot from the external drive. On the other hand, as I explain ahead, the M-series Macs introduce other complications when it comes to bootable duplicates.

Catalina’s Split System Volume

As a way to increase security and make it harder for malware to cause serious damage to your system, Catalina introduced a split system volume. All the components of macOS itself reside on a read-only APFS partition, while apps you install yourself, support files, personal documents, and anything else you might need to change resides on a separate read/write volume, with “- Data” appended to the volume name—for example, “Macintosh HD - Data.” (In this book I refer to this volume simply as the Data volume.) macOS does some magic in the background to hide this split and make it appear as though you have only one volume, but you can see the boot volume and the separate Data volume if you know where to look in Disk Utility or Terminal.

Developers of backup apps had to figure out entirely new methods to clone these split system volumes and keep them updated as macOS itself and your files change. Although there were some hiccups in this process, including a brief period (in macOS 10.15.5 only) when no technique could be made to work, eventually Apple fixed bugs and developers devised new techniques, and bootable backups were back to working pretty much as they had all along.

Well, almost. There’s one exception, which is that starting in Catalina, the few backup apps that could previously create a bootable duplicate over a network (that is, creating the duplicate on a drive physically connected to a different computer) lost that capability. It was nice while it lasted, but Carbon Copy Cloner, ChronoSync, and Retrospect can no longer perform this fancy trick.

Then, just as we had all adjusted to a new status quo, Apple changed things again.

The Signed System Volume

Big Sur took Catalina’s read-only system volume and made two changes (again, with the intention of improving security):

  • Apple now cryptographically signs the system volume. This means that if even a single byte were to change from what Apple shipped (meaning some malware figured out a way to slip past Apple’s security and write to the volume, which shouldn’t be writable), macOS would know and would refuse to boot at all.

  • Big Sur and later macOS versions don’t actually boot from the system volume itself, but rather from an APFS snapshot of the volume. You really don’t need to know all the technical details of this, but basically it provides yet another layer of protection against malware and corruption.

Having a signed system volume is great for security, but it introduces a problem for software that makes bootable duplicates.

Although backup apps can still copy all the files from the system volume onto backup media, they can’t sign that volume so that your Mac will agree to boot from it! Only Apple can do that. Wait, let me amend that slightly: there is a somewhat gnarly way a developer can make a one-time copy of an entire system volume onto external media and make it bootable, and several popular backup apps now use this technique. However, having done that, the third-party app can’t ever update that external copy of macOS without erasing and recopying the entire signed system volume. (See the sidebar The Evolving Status of Bootable Duplicates, just ahead, for more details.)

This isn’t necessarily a tragedy, however, because most modern backup software can still copy your read/write Data volume to external media, and there’s nothing preventing you from installing macOS on that volume yourself—either before or after cloning the Data volume. So, when Apple updates macOS, you can either download the new installer and run it again to update the external drive or boot from the external drive and use Software Update to update it. It’s a hassle, but it works.

Unfortunately, for the time being this means the hands-off approach to keeping your duplicates updated is off the table. Sure, you can keep your personal data updated on your backup volumes, but keeping the copy of macOS on the backup in sync with the copy on your startup volume is going to require ongoing manual intervention.

Although Big Sur made creating bootable duplicates complicated on Intel-based Macs, M-series Macs running Big Sur or later have even more challenges.

M-Series Mac Changes

So far I’ve loved my M1-powered MacBook Air, and almost everything I do on it works the same way as on my Intel-based Macs. But one big difference with Macs powered by M-series chips is how they deal with bootable duplicates.

For one thing, odds are you’ll need a Thunderbolt 3 or 4 external drive (and, realistically, that means a Thunderbolt 3 SSD) to store your bootable duplicate on. Even though there are lots of reasonably priced external SSDs equipped with USB-C connectors, and even though you can hook up any of them to your M-series Mac and use them to read and write data, you may be unable to boot from such a drive unless it explicitly supports Thunderbolt 3 or 4.

That may superficially seem fairly trivial, but:

  • It can be difficult to tell whether a peripheral equipped with a USB-C plug is in fact a Thunderbolt 3 or 4 device or merely USB 3.1 or 3.2, since the USB-C connector is used by multiple versions of USB as well as by Thunderbolt 3 and 4. Some Thunderbolt 3 or 4 devices helpfully put the number 3 near the Thunderbolt logo on the plug, but that may be your only clue.

  • All Thunderbolt 3 and 4 ports support USB, but the reverse is not true. Because a device equipped with USB-C is by definition compatible with Thunderbolt 3 and 4, it’s common for product descriptions to gloss over the distinction with phrases like “Works with Thunderbolt 3!” Well, yes, that’s technically true, but it doesn’t mean the device actually contains a Thunderbolt 3 (or higher) controller, which is what you need for a boot drive.

  • Thunderbolt 3 and 4 peripherals (including external SSDs) tend to be a bit more expensive than comparable USB 3.1 or 3.2 peripherals.

  • A Thunderbolt 3 or 4 drive you buy to work with your newer Mac won’t also work with older Macs that support only Thunderbolt 2 (or USB 3.x).

To make matters more confusing, anecdotal evidence is that some users under some circumstances have in fact been able to boot M-series Macs from some USB 3.1 or 3.2 drives. At present, I don’t have enough information to determine why this is, or whether certain brands, models, or configurations of non–Thunderbolt 3 or 4 drives can be relied on to be bootable.

Apple could, at any time, release whatever new software or firmware may be required to restore bootability to all USB 3.1 or 3.2 drives with USB-C connectors.

Assuming you have the right kind of drive, you’ll still have to jump through extra hoops to actually create a bootable duplicate (see Create a Bootable Duplicate in Big Sur or Later), though that’s equally true with Intel-based Macs running Big Sur or later.

Even after you’ve successfully created a bootable duplicate, there’s another weird gotcha: your M-series Mac can boot from an external drive only if the internal SSD (or, more specifically, the hidden Recovery volume) is functional enough to load the code that’s needed to support external booting. In other words, if your SSD has a minor-to-moderate fault, you can probably boot from an external drive, but if it’s totally dead or erased—the very situation in which booting from an external drive is most crucial—you can’t!

Another consideration is where and how you can use your duplicate. In the past, bootable duplicates made of Intel-based Macs could always be used to boot other Intel-based Macs, should the need arise. (For example, your main Mac was stolen or destroyed, so you buy or borrow another one to continue your work.) That’s still true with bootable duplicates of Big Sur or later (apart from the qualification I mentioned in T2 Chips), but a duplicate made on an Intel Mac can’t be used to boot an M-series Mac, or vice versa; the bootable duplicate is tied to the platform it was created on. Furthermore, it’s unclear whether a bootable duplicate of an M-series Mac can be used to boot a different M-series Mac. One source I read said definitely yes; another said that this would work only if you first use recovery mode on the second Mac to run the Startup Security Utility and change its security policy to Reduced (or Medium) Security. Since I don’t have two M1 Macs, I can’t test this myself.

Finally, there’s a problem if you want to encrypt your bootable duplicate. Ordinarily, you could boot from a duplicate and turn on FileVault to encrypt your backup. Although you can do that on an M-series Mac too, the result will not in fact be bootable. I don’t know whether this is a bug in hardware, firmware, or software or simply an intentional design change with an unexpected consequence, but it’s something to be aware of. (I’ve filed a bug report about this with Apple.)

To be clear, you absolutely can create a bootable duplicate of an M-series Mac, and you can (with some aggravation) keep it updated too. But your choices of hardware and software are quite limited compared to Intel-based Macs, especially those running Catalina or earlier, and more steps are required.

So, Should I Make a Bootable Duplicate?

I’ve given you a bunch of information about how bootable duplicates have changed, but the decision is still yours: should you maintain one or not? Every situation is different, but I’d like to give you a bit of guidance based on my experience. Please understand that what follows are suggestions, not rules.

It depends on what OS version you’re running:

  • Sierra or earlier: Make a bootable duplicate on an external hard drive.

  • High Sierra: Take the appropriate action for the type of storage your Mac uses (see the sidebar What Kind of Storage Does Your Mac Use?):

    • Mechanical hard drive or Fusion drive: Make a bootable duplicate on an external hard drive.

    • SSD: If feasible, make a bootable duplicate on an external SSD. Otherwise, see Alternatives to Bootable Duplicates.

  • Mojave or Catalina: If feasible, consider making a bootable duplicate on an external SSD. Otherwise, see Alternatives to Bootable Duplicates.

  • Big Sur or later:

What do I mean when I say “if feasible”?

  • Cost is one consideration, since external SSDs cost more than external hard drives, and Thunderbolt 3 or 4 SSDs are more expensive than USB 3.1 or 3.2 SSDs. If you can’t reasonably afford it, it’s not feasible for you.

  • When it comes to Big Sur or later, especially on an M-series Mac, maintaining a bootable duplicate means extra work. If you’re unwilling to go through the additional hassle, it’s not feasible for you.

  • For anyone using a relatively recent Mac with an SSD, even if money and inconvenience don’t put you off bootable duplicates, it’s worth reviewing everything I said above about the decreased importance of bootable duplicates. It’s less likely to save your bacon than in years past, and as long as you have a reasonable alternative, you can probably skip it. It’s up to you.

If you’ve decided that duplicates are right for you, you can find instructions in Create and Use a Duplicate.

Alternatives to Bootable Duplicates

If you can’t afford a suitable SSD to hold a bootable duplicate, or you feel the extra time and hassle to create and maintain a bootable duplicate outweigh the increasingly limited benefits of a duplicate, you can still get most of the benefits by using one (or more) of the following approaches.

Data-Only Duplicate

As I discuss later in Create a Data-Only Duplicate, you can make a non-bootable duplicate that holds only the Data volume of your startup disk. That can still be useful in a number of scenarios. Notably, you could use that duplicate, as is, along with the macOS installer or the standalone Migration Assistant app to restore all your data to a new Mac or a new drive. And, if needed, you can install macOS on it (see Option B: Create a Data-Only Duplicate, Then Install macOS) to make it bootable after the fact.

Either way, keeping a data-only duplicate updated is a piece of cake—just set a schedule in your backup app, keep the drive connected, and you’re good to go. And if you have no intention of ever making this duplicate bootable, it’s fine to store it on a mechanical hard drive; you’re unlikely to notice speed problems as long as it’s not a boot drive.

Time Machine Without Exclusions

One of the reasons I counsel against relying on Time Machine for a complete system backup is that it often is not complete! You may choose to exclude certain files and folders (see Exclude Files from Time Machine), and if you do, those will be unavailable when it comes time to restore or migrate your data. Although that’s reasonable in other circumstances, if your goal is to get by without a bootable duplicate, those exclusions may come back to haunt you.

So, if you’re considering doing without a bootable duplicate and you use Time Machine, get rid of all those exclusions. In the event of a disk catastrophe, you’ll still have to wait quite a long time to restore a Time Machine backup, but at least you’ll know that once you’re finished, you’ll have a complete copy of your original disk.

Another Mac

There are three recent-vintage Macs in my office, and although I have plentiful backups of every description, what I’d really do if one of my Macs had a faulty disk and couldn’t boot or suffered a major data loss is just pick up with whatever task I was doing on one of the other Macs (or even, in some cases, on my iPad). I can afford to restore backups pretty much at my leisure, because I keep nearly all the content on my main devices in sync. So my own “get back to work immediately” strategy is to simply switch to a different machine, which I can do knowing that all my tools and data are already there.

If you’re fortunate enough to have two or more Macs at your disposal that can run all your important apps, and whose data you can keep in sync (in whichever way you choose), this is an excellent option.

Why Use External Storage?

Hard drives offer the highest capacity of any storage medium plus fast performance and low cost. So external hard drives are the ideal storage medium, at least for versioned backups. (As I explained in The APFS File System, Macs that use APFS for their startup volume should almost certainly use external SSDs, rather than hard drives, for bootable duplicates—if, of course, you choose to make bootable duplicates at all.)

I want to emphasize the word external. Some Mac models can accommodate more than one internal hard drive or SSD (or one of each). And on any Mac, you can divide a single disk into two or more partitions—volumes that look and act like separate disks. Of course, you could put a backup on a second internal drive or on an extra partition of your main drive. But you shouldn’t do that, because if you do, anything bad that happens to your computer could knock out your backup, too. And if you have to send your Mac out for repairs, your backups would go with it. External drives give you some degree of protection against common hazards, the flexibility to use them with multiple Macs, and the option to rotate them offsite (see Store an Extra Backup Offsite).

So, you’ll probably be using an external hard drive for versioned backups, and optionally an external SSD for bootable duplicates, but you still have (up to) four decisions to make:

  • Which drive(s) should I buy? I discuss a variety of options (capacity, interface, case design, and so on) in Choose Backup Hardware.

  • How many drives should I buy? Having two or more sets of backup media is much safer than having just one. Read Decide How Many Drives to Buy to decide which number is best for you.

  • Should I use the drive(s) locally or over a network? If you have multiple Macs, they can all back up to the same drive over a wired or wireless network. Network backups solve some problems but also introduce certain challenges; see Choose Local or Network Backups for details.

  • For network backups, should I use a Mac or a network storage device? You can use a hard drive connected to another Mac on your network to store versioned backups for all your computers. Or you can use a NAS (network-attached storage) device. For my advice, see Local vs. Network Backups: Joe’s Recommendations and Network Storage Devices.

Why Use Multiple Partitions (or Not)?

For most people nowadays, I think the path of least resistance is to have an external hard drive for versioned backups, and optionally an external SSD for bootable duplicates.

Depending on the amount of storage you need and what you can afford, it’s also possible to use a single, higher-capacity drive and divide it into two or more partitions (as I describe later in Prepare Your Backup Drive). But, as I explain in Split Backup Disks Are No Longer Great, given that this drive should be an SSD, the cost is prohibitive for most people. For that reason, and because bootable duplicates are no longer as essential as they once were, multiple partitions make less sense than they once did.

Alternatively, a single, somewhat larger SSD formatted as APFS could be used for a Carbon Copy Cloner duplicate with added snapshots, giving you the effect of both a bootable duplicate and versioned backups on a single partition; see Carbon Copy Cloner Tips.

Why Automate Backups?

I can say from personal experience that backups are far more likely to happen regularly if your backup software runs without any manual intervention. And I want to assure you that regular backups are the only kind that matter. I think it’s fair to state this corollary to Murphy’s Law: “The likelihood of suffering data loss increases in direct proportion to the elapsed time since your last backup.” In other words, if you’re performing all your backups manually, the one day you forget (or run out of time) will be the day something goes wrong.

In some situations, you don’t have to do anything special to get backups to run automatically; in others, you have to be careful to set up your backup software to run at a set time.

Schedule-Free Backups

Not so long ago, most backup software required you to set a specific time for it to run—say, every day at 3:00 A.M., or once a week on Sunday afternoon. An underlying assumption of this sort of scheduling was that the backup would probably take a long time, possibly slowing down your computer (and maybe also your network), meaning you may not want backups happening while you’re trying to get something done with your Mac.

Increasingly, though, backup apps have become more sophisticated, such that they don’t necessarily require an explicit schedule. Time Machine, for example, runs incremental backups every hour by default. Retrospect has a mode, called ProactiveAI Backup, in which it runs as often as needed, giving you more flexibility than with conventional schedules. Numerous other apps can detect when files change and then back them up immediately (or after a brief delay, such as 15 minutes).

All things being equal, I prefer schedule-free backups (of whatever sort), because they require less setup and maintenance work and they increase the probability that your backups will happen when they should. But if your backup software doesn’t offer that option, you’ll have to manually set up a recurring schedule, as I describe next.

Scheduled Backups

In cases where you must schedule a backup explicitly, when should you schedule it to run?

Although it’s much less of a problem now than it once was, some backup apps can slow down your Mac noticeably while backups are running. This could be an argument for scheduling backups for when you’re not using the machine. However, if you don’t leave your computer on all the time, you’ll need to take special care to ensure that it’s on and ready when the backups are scheduled to run (see the sidebar Power Management and Backups for more details).

How often should you back up your Mac? And if you’re making versioned backups and bootable duplicates, how often should you update each?

No single answer is right for everyone, but my rule of thumb is that bootable duplicates should be updated at least once a week and versioned backups should be updated at least once every day that you make minor changes (receiving email, modifying text files, and so on).

More frequent updates are even better. For anyone with a reasonably fast Mac and modern backup software, there’s no good reason not to do backups as frequently as possible. (I have two different kinds of versioned backups running continuously, and I update my bootable duplicates twice a day. But that’s me.)

If you’re actively working on an important, time-sensitive document, then even hourly backups, such as those offered by default by Time Machine, may not be enough. You may want to supplement ordinary versioned backups with software that stores every single version you save. Many Mac apps can do that automatically, and other options exist if that approach won’t work for you (see Version Control for details).

Why Keep Multiple Backups?

A sound backup strategy always includes more than one backup. Picture this: You’ve diligently backed up your Mac’s internal disk to an external drive. One day, a lightning strike damages both drives. So much for your backup! Even under ordinary conditions, backup media can fail for all the same reasons your hard drive can fail. Having just one backup, in my opinion, is never enough. Most people should alternate between two or more sets of local backup media for greater safety. If you’ve set up your backups to run on a schedule, this might mean using Drive A every day for a week, then switching to Drive B for each day of the following week, then switching back, and so on.

Another good reason for multiple backups is to protect against ransomware, an insidious type of malware that encrypts all the files on your disk and demands a hefty payment for the decryption key. Refuse to pay and you’ll never see your files again. Restoring from a backup made before the ransomware kicked in can solve the problem, but some types of ransomware deliberately wait a few days after being downloaded before they become active, partly to foil daily backups. If you have two backups, one of which is several days or a week old, you’re much more likely to recover from ransomware unscathed. (See the sidebar A Word About Ransomware.)

So, are two sets enough? It depends. To protect against media failure, most experts recommend using at least three sets, of which one is always stored offsite. But using online backups (see Use a Cloud Backup Service) counts as one set, and perhaps as more than one if the provider keeps its own internal backups. If you’re not backing up online, using three hard drives does make rotating media more convenient, as I describe in Use an Extra Hard Drive or SSD.

In my opinion, except for mission-critical business use, it should be plenty to have two separate versioned backups (one of which could be provided by online backups rather than occupy an additional local backup drive), plus an optional bootable duplicate. It’s better to have fewer sets that you maintain diligently than multiple sets that you don’t maintain because your backup plan is too complicated or time-consuming. In any case, if you have more than one set of media, you should keep one in another location all the time. That brings us to the next crucial part of a good backup strategy: offsite backups.

Why Store Backups Offsite?

If someone breaks into your home or office and steals your Mac, chances are they’ll also grab whatever’s attached to it, such as your backup drive! Fires, floods, earthquakes, and other disasters could likewise wipe out your backups as well as your computer. As much as we want to believe these things will never happen to us, the prudent course is to plan as though they will. So I urge you to keep at least one copy of your data far away from your computer. You have quite a few choices, including physically moving hard drives from place to place and using an online backup service; I outline the options in Store an Extra Backup Offsite.

Online backups also provide extra protection against ransomware. Even if a malicious app encrypted everything on your Mac and on mounted external disks, it couldn’t affect backups already stored in the cloud. (Again, see the sidebar A Word About Ransomware.)

Can Cloud Sync Simplify Backups?

Speaking of storing data online, you may be thinking, “Hey! I use Dropbox (or iCloud Drive or Google Drive or any of a zillion other cloud storage services) already. Doesn’t that count as an offsite backup?” Not necessarily; I explain why in the sidebar Dropbox Kinda Sorta Offers Backups. However, cloud sync absolutely can simplify your backups! More specifically, it can simplify restoring your data, especially when you’re moving to a new computer or a replacement hard drive.

I was discussing backup and restoration strategies with a reader, and he asked me exactly what I’d do if my Mac’s startup disk died and had to be replaced. In particular, he was wondering how I’d deal with the differences between my last bootable duplicate and what had been backed up more recently by Time Machine or an online backup service (see Finding Recently Backed-Up Files).

I told him I’d restore my disk from the duplicate, which would get me pretty close to my disk’s last state because I update my duplicate twice a day. But then, realistically, I probably wouldn’t have to touch my versioned backups, even if they were hours or days out of date. That’s because nowadays I store most of my important day-to-day data in the cloud.

Personal data such as email, contacts, calendars, reminders, notes, browser bookmarks, and photos sync automatically thanks to iCloud and other services. And most of the files I work on regularly are stored either in iCloud Drive or in my Dropbox folder. So merely starting up a Mac on which the relevant apps are installed and logged in to their respective accounts will make most of my personal data automagically update itself to the latest versions. If I noticed anything missing, I could always fetch it from a versioned backup later, at my leisure.

I’m not saying that cloud-based data storage and syncing is a substitute for backups, but rather that when the cloud contains the “master” copy of your important data, you can often skip a number of tedious steps when it comes to restoring backups, because the most crucial data syncs all by itself.

So, both to simplify data restoration and to make your life easier when working with multiple devices, my recommendation is: use IMAP for email if you don’t already (see my article FlippedBITS: IMAP Misconceptions); use iCloud or a comparable service for syncing data such as contacts and calendars; and use iCloud Drive, Dropbox, or any of numerous similar services for syncing your files to the cloud and across computers. And, crucially, adjust your habits so that your most frequently used files are stored in a location that syncs automatically to the cloud.

Can You Reduce Your Backup Footprint?

If you’re making a bootable duplicate, you’ll almost invariably want to copy every single file from your startup volume. With versioned backups, however (whether stored locally or in the cloud), you may want to reduce the volume of data you’re backing up in some situations, such as these:

  • You’re stuck with an external hard drive that’s smaller than what you should ideally have (see Decide on Capacity).

  • You’re using a cloud service that charges by the gigabyte and you want to economize as much as possible.

  • Your external drive or broadband connection is slow, meaning backups take longer than you prefer.

One approach to this problem is to be selective about what you back up; for example, you may exclude certain extra-large files for which having multiple copies isn’t crucial (see Exclude Files from Time Machine). Another approach is to reduce the total amount of data on your Mac in the first place.

Getting rid of unneeded files can address numerous problems besides backups. It can reduce software incompatibilities, simplify software upgrades, and keep your Mac from running out of disk space (which can also slow it down). Here are a few quick tips:

  • To configure Optimized Storage options, which can reduce the amount of disk space used, go to System Settings > General > Storage (in Ventura or later) or choose Apple  > About This Mac > Storage, then click Manage (in Monterey or earlier). In particular, consider clicking Optimize and (after confirming) selecting both checkboxes to permit macOS to remove movies and TV shows you’ve already watched, and email attachments, from your Mac. (You can always download them again later if needed.)

  • Try an uninstaller utility, such as CleanMyMac, which can also find large and old files you might want to delete.

  • Eliminate duplicate files using a utility such as Gemini 2.

  • Be sure to empty the Trash (in the Finder, choose Finder > Empty Trash) to recover disk space after deleting files.

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