Index

Figures in italics refer to captions and diagrams

A

acrylic 14, 17, 26

activism see craftivism; designer as activist Adams, Bob 174

adaptability 76–84

Adbusters 138

Aid to Artisans 170

Alabama Chanin 107, 175, 175

The Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Design and Alabama Studio Style (Chanin) 175

Alite 140

All Party Parliamentary Group of Ethical Fashion 172–3

alpaca 107

alteration see repair services

Andrews, Cheryl 109, 109

Antiform Industries 146, 147

Apexa® (DuPont) 18

Ardalanish 41

Aristotle 11

artisans 110–12, 170–1, 175; see also local production

As You Sow 121, 170

Avelle 87, 103, 103

B

bacteria 93

Bag, Borrow or Steal see Avelle

bamboo 14, 16

Barneys New York 159, 175

bast fibres 107

Bedlam Boudoir 176, 178

Benyus, Janine 114, 115, 118

Berry, Wendell 49, 106, 114, 124, 136

bespoke designs 103, 105

Betabrand 129, 140, 140, 179

bicycle clothing 139–140, 140

Bike Kitchen 100

biodegradable fibres 13, 17–20

biofuel see renewable fuels

biomimicry 77, 114–23

Biomimicry Institute 114

biopolymers 18

biotechnology 23–4

Bird Textiles 26, 28

Black Spot sneakers 151

bleaching 16, 34–7

Bluesign 36, 36–7

bounded capabilities 174

Bourlanges, Marie Ilse 130, 130

Boycott Uzbek Cotton campaign 170

boycotts 169

Brand, Stewart 114

Bridging Cultures Through Design (BCTD) 170–1, 171

Brower, David 33

Brown, Nick 116

Bt cotton 23, 24

Burgess, Rebecca 171

Busch, Otto von 145, 151, 152, 164

buttons 17, 52–3, 53

C

C & A 22

CAD 126

pattern cutting 44, 48

Callenbach, Ernest 30, 143

Cambia T-shirt (Páramo) 79

Cara, Roberto 159

carbon dioxide/carbon footprinting 25–6, 28, 38, 54, 55–8, 58, 61, 92

Carbon Trust 26

care labels 60–1, 61; see also garment care cash crops 21

cashmere 86

‘Cathedral and Bazaar’ 145

cationizing agents 39–40

Chanin, Nathalie 141, 143, 175, 176

Chapman, Jonathan 76, 85, 180

charity shops see thrift stores

child labour 21, 50

children’s toys 82

chlorine 35, 37

Clean Clothes Campaign 50

Cleaner Cotton™ 25, 25

cleaning see laundering

climate change 12, 13, 25–6, 38, 100, 126, 138

Clothes Exchange 64

clothes hire see leasing

clothes swaps 163, 163–4

Clothing Exchange 163, 163

CMT (cut, make and trim) 49

co-design 144–6, 150–2, 162–3

Cohen-Fried, Elisheva 134, 135, 150, 150

co-operatives 51, 105, 106, 110, 122

Cojolya Association of Women Weavers 111–12, 112, 171

collaborations and partnerships 22, 50–1, 64, 107, 118, 119, 122, 169; see also NGOs

colour 40, 79–80

and laundering 60

natural 40–1

theory 36

see also dyes and dyeing

commuter cycling 139–140, 140

composting 17, 18, 20, 90

connectedness 143–4, 150

Conrad, Joseph 141

consumer care 60–2

copper 38, 52–3

corn 14, 18, 58, 160; see also PLA

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) 51, 157, 168

cotton 13, 14, 21–5, 60, 96, 98, 99, 160

Bt cotton 23, 24

calculator 159

cationic (Tuscarora Yarns) 39, 40

chemicals and pesticides 13, 21–3

Cleaner Cotton™ 25, 25

cotton picking and labour issues 21–2

farming 107, 134

GM 13–14, 23, 24, 25, 134

Home Grown Cleaner Cotton™ T-shirt (Prana) 25, 25

irrigation 28–9

organic 23–4, 24, 25, 112, 133, 170, 174

spinning 107

sustainable cotton options 24

Sustainable Cotton Project 158–9, 160

Trigema biodegradable T-shirt 18, 20

Cotton Connect 22

Cotton Roots 26

Cradle to Cradle (McDonough and Braungart) 17; certification and concept 18, 20, 87

Craft Lab 150

crafting 146–50

craftivism 149–50

The Craftsman (Sennett) 147

‘Craftwerk 2.0: New household tactics for popular crafts’ 150

crease-resistant fibres 98

crowdsourcing 129, 179

cultural knowledge 108–9

customization 152

cutting waste see minimum-waste garments

D

Dale Sko shoe factory, Norway 152, 152

Daly, Herman 75, 125, 125, 136

De Beauvoir coat (Eloise Grey) 42

Decay (Bourlanges) 130

defibrillation 35

degradable fibres 18

Del Forte Denim 170

Del Forte, Tierra 170

denim 86, 96

DePLOY 81, 81

Design Activism (Fuad-Luke) 145, 146

design services 103, 105; see also co-design designer

as activist 168–73

as communicator-educator 157–9

as entrepreneur 174–9

as facilitator 162–7; see also co-design

detergent see laundering

Devenney, Lauren 96, 98

disposal 63–73; see also recycling; waste

distribution 54–8, 64, 66, 106, 107

Dosa 85–6, 175–6, 176

downcycling 63; see also recycling

Duerr, Sasha 43, 44, 158, 160

DuPont 16, 18

durability 85–8

dyes and dyeing 37–40

cationizing agents 39–40

fixation rates 38

natural 43, 43, 44, 86, 108, 108, 158, 171, 172, 176, 178

and water 37–9

workshops 158, 160

E

Earley, Becky 96, 134

Eco Circle technology (Tejin) 71

ecosystems 31–2, 76, 77

business 118, 125, 125

Edible Schoolyard 176

Ehrenfeld, John 75

electroplating 52–3

emotional attachment to garments 65, 85–7, 141

empathy 85–6

Endurance Shirt (Timo Rissanen) 46

energy consumption

in fibre production 25–6, 26, 28

in garment care 57, 60–2, 93

Energy Water Fashion 96, 96

environmental campaigns 138, 139

enzyme technology 35–6, 37

Etsy, Dan 155

eucalyptus 16

EW8 96

F

fabric coatings 93

facings 17

Fairtrade/fair trade 13, 14, 21, 51, 70, 107, 133

Fair Trade Labelling Initiative 51

Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International 51

Fair Trade USA 51, 170

Farming With the Wild (Dan Imhoff) 30

farming, organic see organic agriculture

Farrell, Robert 143

fashion as self expression 138–9

fast fashion 126–7, 129

fertilizers 20, 29, 58, 126

Fibershed Project 171, 172

fibre production

low-energy/low-carbon 25–6, 28

low-water-use 28–30

fibres

animal- and plant-based 14, 17

biodegradable 13, 17–20

degradable 18

fibre blends 17, 99

GM 22–5

non-biodegradable 17

non-degradable 18

non-renewable 14

petrochemical 12, 14, 18

renewable fibres 14, 16; ‘family tree’ 15

synthetic fibres 13, 16, 17, 18, 26, 29, 70–1, 73, 98

water use 29

see also organic agriculture; recycling

Filippa K 64, 66, 66

finishing treatments 93

5 Ways project 96, 96, 134

Flener, Manon 82, 82

Fletcher, Kate 88, 96, 134

flocculation 39

Forno, Sam 44, 48

From Somewhere 69

Fuad-Luke, Alastair 135, 145, 146

Fuller, Richard Buckminster 155

G

Galloway, Anne 152

garment care 60–2, 92–9

garments, emotional attachment to 65, 85–7, 141; see also fashion as self expression

Global Organic Textile Standard 36, 53

globalization 49, 106, 108, 144, 152

GM (genetic modification) 13, 16, 22–5, 36, 134

cotton 13–14, 23, 24, 25, 134

Goodone 69–70, 71

Goodwill 66, 67, 69, 69, 122, 123

government policies, influencing 172–3

Great American Apparel Diet 137

Grey, Eloise 41, 42

Grose, Lynda 141, 143, 159

H

H & M (Hennes and Mauritz) 50; Garden Collection 16, 16

hacking 150–2

Hahn, Nicole Mackinlay 159, 160

Hamnett, Katherine 22

hardware and trims 52–3, 53

Hawken, Paul 121

Heath Pottery 176

Helvey, Ashley 160

hemp 14, 29, 107–8, 108

Herman Miller 176

high-tech/smart fabrics 77–8, 78, 79, 116–17

Historic Futures 55

Home Grown T-shirt (Prana) 25, 25

Home Made (SANS) 105

home-made clothes/home sewing 145, 164, 167, 167, 175; see also workshops

Hopkins, Rob 172, 180

House of Cashmere 70

Hyde, Lewis 141

hydrogen peroxide 35, 36, 37

I

IDEO 169, 174

Illuminite Teflon 140

Imhoff, Dan 159

Ingeo™ (NatureWorks) 18

International Labor Organization 50

Internet 105, 129, 144, 158, 179

inventory flows 54

IPM (integrated pest management) 22, 24, 160

ironing 98; see also garment care

J

Jackson, Tim 174

jeans 6, 53, 61, 61, 96, 140, 170

Jongstra, Claudy 176, 176

Junky Styling 69, 105, 105

Jurewitz, Patti 170

just-in-time manufacturing 126

K

Keep and Share 102, 129, 130

Kernel Gallery, Athens 165

Khamir 112

Kim, Christina 85–6, 175–6

Kirschenmann, Fred 30

Koch snowflake 114, 115

Konaka 94, 95

Korten, David 123, 180

L

labels and labelling 20, 86, 96, 164

labour 20–2, 106, 124, 126

child labour 21, 50

cotton picking 21, 22

in cut and sew 49–51

NGOs 50–1

see also artisans

landfill 18, 52, 63, 67, 85, 123

laundering 60–2, 92–9, 165

leasing 90, 102–3

Leonard, Annie 138

Levi Strauss and Co 53, 53, 61, 61, 109, 109

Levinson, Melissa 94

Levy, Steven 151–2

life-cycle assessment (LCA) 55–6, 134

lifespan of a garment 85

Lifetimes project (Fletcher and Tham) 88, 90, 91

linen 16, 29, 41, 96, 98

Linux software 144

Little Brown Dress project (Martin) 137, 137–8

llamas 31, 32

local culture 108–9

local production 41, 106–12, 146, 171, 175; see also artisans; slow fashion

Local Wisdom 164–5, 167, 167

London College of Fashion 96

Lovins, Amory 121

Lovins, Hunter 121

Low to No Waste jacket (Sam Forno) 44, 48

Luckins, Kate 163

lyocell 14, 15, 16, 16, 26

M

Maca 107–8, 108

Macy, Joanna 174

Maggie’s Organics 107

Marchand and Walker 139

Marks and Spencer 57, 61, 64

Martin, Alex 137

MATERIALBYPRODUCT 49

Mau, Bruce 57

Max-Neef, Manfred 110, 132, 132–5

MBDC 20; see also Cradle to Cradle

McDonalds 128

Meadows, Donella 114–15, 157

Melville, Emily 80, 80

methane 18

Michel, Karina 73, 73

minimum-waste garments 44, 45, 46, 47, 48–9, 119, 119

mining industry 52, 54

‘Mirror/Africa’ video installation (Hahn) 159, 160

Miyake, Issey 99

modular garments 80–1, 81, 82, 82, 83, 145

Moholy-Nagy, László 162

Mudd Jeans 170

Muji 99, 99

multifunctional garments 78–9, 146

N

Naess, Arne 174

nanofiltration 39

natural dyes 43, 43, 44, 86, 108, 108, 158, 171, 172, 176, 178

Nau 58, 58

needs 132–41

new media see Internet

NGOs 50–1, 93, 112, 121, 158, 169–73; see also partnerships and collaborations

Nikwax 116, 117

No Stain dress (Devenney) 96, 98

No Wash top (Earley and Fletcher) 96, 96

non-biodegradable fibres 17

non-degradable fibres 18

non-renewable fibres 14

North Face, The 36, 37

nylon 14, 16, 26, 30

recycling 71, 73

O

oil industry 52

One Night Stands (Sandstrom) 127, 127

online businesses see Internet optimized lifetimes 85–7

organic agriculture 13, 14, 22, 23–5, 30, 133, 174

Organic Exchange 174

over-printing 69, 86

Oxfam 50, 51, 64, 66

ozone

bleaching 35, 36, 37

laundering with 62, 62

P

Páramo 79, 116, 117; see also smart/high-tech fabrics

partnerships and collaborations 22, 50–1, 64, 107, 118, 119, 122, 169; see also NGOs

passive consumption 143–4, 150

Patagonia 29, 29–30, 56, 87, 122

pattern and making instructions see Chanin, Nathalie; Busch, Otto von

pattern cutting and wastage see minimum-waste garments

patterns, downloadable 104, 105, 179

peak oil 26

peak water 29

Pearse, John 94

Permacouture Institute 158, 160

pest control 22–3, 25

IPM (integrated pest management) 22, 24, 160

see also organic agriculture; pesticides

pesticides 13, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 28, 29, 58

PET (ployethylene terephthalate) 18, 70

Petrini, Carlo 128

PLA (polylactic acid) fibres 14, 18

plants and dyeing see natural dyes

Pleats Please concept (Issey Miyake) 99

polyester 14, 16, 17–18, 26, 29, 30, 38, 60, 99

recycling 70–1, 73

Pratibha Syntex 73, 119, 119, 120

predator-friendly fibres 30–2, 107

Primark 128

processing

designers’ involvement in 33–4, 36

standards and accreditation 36–7

Project Laundry List 62

PTT (triexta) 15, 16, 26, 29

Q

Quick Response (QR) codes 87

R

Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tags 54, 61, 87

Rawles, Kate 75

Raymond, Eric S. 145

reconditioning see recycling: garments

recycling 17, 52, 56, 64, 138

fibre 13, 16, 17, 26, 39, 48, 52, 63, 64, 70–1, 73, 87, 107, 119, 120, 133, 140

garments 63, 64, 67, 69–70, 122, 164, 176

shoes 127, 127

water 39

REI 78, 78

‘recyclopedia’ (von Busch) 164, 165

renewable fibres 14, 16; ‘family tree’ 15

renewable fuels 58

renting see leasing

repair services 100–1, 101

reuse 63–4, 64, 66–7; see also recycling

reverse osmosis 39

RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) tags 54, 61, 87, 159

Rissanen, Timo 44, 46, 48–9

Robinson, Mimi 170–1

Rockefeller Foundation 169

Rosenfeld, Galya 84, 84

S

Salvation Army 66

Sandstrom, Stephanie 127

SANS 104, 105, 179

Scotchgard™ 93

seasons 79

seed cotton 14, 21

Self-Couture (Steverlynck) 146, 148

self-storage 86

Sennett, Richard 147, 149

Shah, Nimish 112, 112

shape-changing garments 82–4, 84

sharing garments 65, 102, 165

sheep 30, 31, 31, 32, 41, 160, 176, 176

‘Sheep and Weeds’ 160

Shell Foundation 22

shoes 87, 127, 127, 151, 152, 153

Shove, Elizabeth 145

Shower Clean Suit (Konaka) 94, 95

silk 14, 98

‘SIN’ (Substitute It Now) list 93

slow fashion 43, 127, 128–30; see also artisans; crafting; local production

Slow Food movement 128

smart/high-tech fabrics 77–8, 78, 79, 116–17, 117

snaps 52, 82

Social Fabric Collaborative 100

Sorona® (DuPont) 16

Speth, James Gustave 168

stains 96

stain-repellant coatings 93

steady-state economics 125, 125

Stegner, Wallace 110

Steverlynck, Diane 146, 148

Story of Stuff (Leonard) 138

String technology 55

Sugar and Spice shoe (Patagonia) 87

supply chain 11, 21, 36, 54, 55–6, 106, 107, 111, 126, 141, 144, 159, 170

Sustainabilica 12

‘Sustainable Clothing Roadmap’ 92

Sustainable Cotton Project 158–9, 160

Swaine, Michael 101, 102

Swap-O-Rama-Rama 163–4

synthetic fibres 13, 16, 17, 18, 26, 29, 70–1, 73, 98

systemic innovation 174

T

take-back schemes 64, 66

Teflon® 93

Tejin 71

Tencel® 16, 30

Tesco 70

Textile Exchange 22

Tham, Mathilda 88

Thirteen Mile Farm, Montana 31, 32

Thorpe, Ann 154

thrift stores 66–7, 69, 122; see also recycling; vintage clothing

Tibbs, Hardin 54

Tide 61

Timberland 56–7

Titus, Crystal 82, 82

ToTEM (Tales of Things and Electronic Memory) project 87

Touch Me dress (5 Ways Project) 134

transfunctional garments 77–8

Transition Towns movement 172

transportation 54, 57–8

trans-seasonal garments 79–80

Tremayne, Wendy 163

triexta (PTT) 15, 16, 26, 29

Trigema biodegradable T-shirt 18, 20

trims and hardware 52–3, 53

Tuscarora Yarns 39, 40

tweed 41

Twiggy 164

Tyler, Mike 32

U

UNEP 28

UNESCO 28, 29

United Nations Environment Programme 60

upcycling 69; see also recycling

V

vintage clothing 65, 66, 69, 90, 102, 103, 141, 143; see also recycling

viscose 14, 16, 26, 29

W

Waag, Jerome 160

Walmart 55, 61, 122

wardrobe metabolism 88, 88

washing clothes see laundering

waste 12, 13, 14, 18, 34, 63–4, 92 see also disposal; landfill; recycling; reuse

water 12, 13, 23, 28–30, 34, 35, 37–8, 39, 52, 92

use in fibres 29

Waters, Alice 176

weaving 41, 111–12, 171

web sites see Internet

Weed, Becky 32

Whole Earth Catalog (Brand) 114

Wikipedia 144

women 136–7, 149, 171, 175

wool 14, 17, 29, 41, 42, 94, 107, 176, 176

and predators 30–1, 31, 32

see also tweed

workers see labour

workshops 100, 110, 152, 158, 163, 164, 165, 175

World Economic Forum 28

World Health Organization 22

WORN_RELICS© project 87

wrinkled garments 99, 99; see also ironing

WWF, Scotland 138

Y

Yamamoto, Kansai 94

Z

zips 17, 20, 52, 85

ZoZa 86