90
Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty Products
making mineral
foundations
Now for the fun stuff! These first few recipes give you a small amount of a
base filler you can use to check the color—without wasting a lot of your sup-
plies for something that turns out to be too light or too dark for your skin.
The first thing you want to choose is the type of coverage you want for your
foundation. I give you recipes for four types: sheer coverage, medium cover-
age, maximum coverage, and coverage for darker skin tones. The base filler
recipes yield 12 to 18 grams. (These recipes are written in grams because of
the tiny amounts used for many of the colors in creating each blend.) That
makes up 75 to 90 percent of your foundation recipe and gives you some
room to play until you find just the right color grind or blend of color grinds.
what you need …
Scale (one that weighs to the 100th)
Face mask
Latex gloves
Waxed paper
Small paper cups
Measuring spoons and small scoops
7.5 milliliter pipettes
Coffee grinder or mortar and pestle
Zipper-lock plastic bags or two 30-gram sifter jars
Mineral foundations are easy to apply, cover what
you need them to cover, offer UV protection, and
leave your skin looking fresh and natural.
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91mineral makeup
8.5g French or rose talc
1.1g titanium dioxide
.3g silk mica or rice powder
.4g magnesium stearate
1.7g zinc oxide
.6g jojoba oil
Preservative (manufacturer’s recommenda-
tion)
base recipe: natural sheer base filler
This almost-transparent base is the best for young skin that just needs a little color in the evening.
This is also the filler base recipe used for the bronzers. You can double or triple it to make a larger
amount. Makes 12.6 grams base filler.
These recipes
usually go over
the 100 percent
amount because
I don’t count
the preservative
or fragrance in
formulations. I
recommend CAP-5
for your preserva-
tive. It is paraben
and formaldehyde
free, permitted for
use in makeup, and
globally approved.
1. Put on your face mask and gloves, and put a piece of waxed paper over your work area.
2. Set your scale to grams, put a small cup on the scale, and push the tare button to zero
out the weight of the cup.
3. Weigh the first ingredient, and pour it into the grinder
bowl or mortar.
4. Place the cup back on the scale, push the tare button
again, and continue weighing all the ingredients except
the preservative. Add each to the grinder bowl or
mortar.
5. Put the grinder bowl on the grinder, and grind in short
spurts for 1 minute. If you’re using a mortar and pestle,
hand-grind the powders for several minutes. You should
begin to see intense light skin-tone color.
6. Add the jojoba oil, and grind again in short spurts for
2 minutes. If using a mortar and pestle, grind for 4 or 5
minutes. Add the preservative and grind again until it’s
evenly distributed.
7. Store the base filler in a zipper-lock plastic bag or a clean
jar until you’re ready to mix it with a color grind.
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92 Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty Products
medium-coverage base filler
This is a medium-coverage finish that offers a little more coverage than the sheer but not as much
as the maximum. If you want, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger amount. Pre-
pare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 18.6 grams base filler.
7g French or rose talc
2.8g titanium dioxide
2g sericite mica
3.4g magnesium stearate
2.8g zinc oxide
.6g jojoba oil
Preservative (manufacturer’s
recommendation)
maximum-coverage base filler
This base filler gives the best coverage for mature or acne-scarred skin. It’s the one I use. If you
like, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger amount. Prepare as directed in the
Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 16.3 grams base filler.
If you don’t want
to use talc, you
can replace it with
white kaolin clay,
cornstarch, or rice
powder. If you have
a darker skin tone,
avoid using white
kaolin clay. It will
leave a chalky
undertone. The
same is true with
too much zinc and
titanium dioxide.
I created a base
filler for darker
skin, but you might
need to make some
adjustments
2.8g French or rose talc
3.4g titanium dioxide
5g sericite mica
5g silk mica
1.7g magnesium stearate
2.8g zinc oxide
.6g jojoba oil
Preservative (manufacturer’s
recommendation)
base filler for darker complexions
This base filler is for darker skin tones. It doesn’t have as much titanium dioxide or zinc so it
doesn’t leave a chalky undertone. If you like, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger
amount. Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 16.7 grams base filler.
8.5g French or rose talc
1.8g titanium dioxide
2.4g sericite mica
2.8g magnesium stearate
.6g zinc oxide
.6g jojoba oil
Preservative (manufacturer’s recommenda-
tion)
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93mineral makeup
how to apply foundation
I couldn’t tell you how to make mineral foundation and then not tell you how to apply
it! You’ll need a soft kabuki brush.
Before I apply foundation, I like to use an undermakeup moisturizer and a little con-
cealer under my eyes. If you do, too, give the moisturizer about 5 minutes to soak in
and for your skin to be ready for the foundation.
Turn the sifter jar that holds your foundation upside down with the lid on and shake
out some powder. Turn it right side up again and remove the lid. Fill your kabuki
brush with the foundation powder, tap the brush against the jar (or gently blow on
it) to knock off any excess, and apply the foundation to your face, blending it all the
way up to your hairline and down your neck so your neck and face match.
For a softer look, brush some foundation in an upward motion as well. This was a
trick Marilyn Monroe used to give her skin a soft, kind of transparent look.
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