8 Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty Products
Name Qualities Benefits Shelf Life
Emu oil Anti-inflammatory, Helps with inflamed Short shelf life (3 to
nonirritating, antimicrobial, skin; reducing wrinkles, 6 months); keep
and hypoallergenic scars, and stretch marks; refrigerated
moisturizing dry skin;
rashes; eczema and
psoriasis; and stimulating
skin, hair, and nail growth;
oen used as a carrier oil
Evening primrose Contains omega-6 Helps with dry, itchy 6 to 12 months
oil (Oenothera skin; rosacea; acne; and
biennis) atopic dermatitis;
good for mature skin
Flaxseed oil Antiaging; contains Good for mature skin Up to 1 year; keep
(linseed) omega-3s; essential fatty and helps wrinkles, refrigerated
acids, palmitic, oleic, and rosacea, acne, eczema,
linoleic; and omega-6 and psoriasis
linolenic acid
Grapeseed oil A by-product of wine- Helps with dry, itchy 6 months
(Vitis vinifera) making, grapeseed oil skin; varicose veins;
contains antioxidants, eczema; psoriasis;
vitamin E, tocopherols, and and acne
essential fatty acid linoleic
Hemp seed oil Rich in vitamins A and E, Helps with dry or 6 months to 1 year
(Cannabis sativa) essential fatty acids, irritated skin, dry hair,
and hemp seed and protein dry scalp, skin lesions,
butter and inflamed skin
Illipe butter Contains essential fatty Helps moisturize 2 years
(Shorea stenoptera) acids palmitic, oleic, mature skin, protect it
linoleic, and stearic from moisture loss, and
heal dry or brittle hair
and sunburn; oen
substituted for cocoa
butter
Jojoba oil Contains fatty alcohols; Stabilizes other oils; Infinite; can be
(Simmondsia essential fatty acids oleic, binds cosmetic added to short-life
chinensis) eicosenoic, and docosenoic; powders; and helps oils to extend their
and omega-9 dry skin, wrinkles, shelf life
acne; removes eye
makeup; and hydrates
hair and itchy or dry
scalp
For a vegan substi-
tute for emu oil, try
meadowfoam seed
oil. It also pen-
etrates into deep
tissue and has a
very long shelf life.
Jojoba oil (actually
a liquid wax) makes
a wonderful eye
makeup remover.
It completely
removes mascara
and leaves the skin
around your eyes
well moisturized.
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9your ingredients
Name Qualities Benefits Shelf Life
Karanja oil Antiseptic and an Helps with biliousness, 2 years
(Pongamia glabra) insecticide itchiness, head lice,
fleas, and as an insect
repellant (use full
strength or diluted with
sesame oil and fragrance
on exposed skin for
outdoor protection—
bugs do not like
the smell!)
Kiwi seed oil Antiaging; contains vitamins Helps with moisturizing 1 year; longer if
(Actinidia C and E, omega-3 fatty dry skin, eczema, refrigerated
chinensis) acids, potassium, and psoriasis, brittle hair,
magnesium aging skin, and dry lips
Kokum butter Contains vitamin E and Helps with dry skin; 2 years
(Garcinia indica) essential fatty acids oleic, oen used in stick
palmitic, linoleic, and balms such as lotion
stearic sticks and lip balms to
add firmness as well as
its other benefits
Kukui oil (Aleurites Contains vitamins A, C, Helps with mature skin, 1 year if refrigerated
moluccana) and E, and essential acne, scars, sun- and
fatty acids windburns, eczema,
psoriasis, damaged skin,
dry or brittle hair, and
flaky scalp
Lanolin Contains cholesterol, Helps with dry, chapped 3 years
esters of fatty acids, skin; is easily absorbed
and molecular alcohols by the skin; in lipstick,
lanolin helps the color
stick to the lip; for a
vegan replacement in
cosmetics, use cupuacu
butter
Macadamia oil Contains a high amount Helps with regeneration 1 or 2 years
(Macadamia of monounsaturated of the skin, sunburns,
integrifolia) fatty acids scars, irritated skin, fine
lines, and soening
Mango butter Contains antioxidants, Helps with dry, 2 or 3 years
(Mangifera indica) fatty acids, and stearic acid chapped skin; eczema;
and psoriasis
Manketti oil Rich in nutrients; is an Great for sun 1 year
(Ricinodendron antioxidant; contains protection and
rautanenii) vitamin C and eleostrearic hair care
acid
Kukui oil is
nongreasy and easily
absorbs into the skin.
It’s expensive, but it’s
worth every penny.
I highly recommend
this oil for cancer
patients who are
taking or have taken
chemotherapy to
rehydrate their skin.
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10 Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty Products
Name Qualities Benefits Shelf Life
Maracuja oil Anti-inflammatory, Helps dry and sensitive 1 year
(Passiflora antispasmodic, and skin, eczema, psoriasis,
incarnata) antibacterial; contains dry hair, and dermatitis;
vitamins A, B, and C relieves pain and
balances sebum
Marula oil Contains fatty acids oleic, Helps with conditioning 1 year; longer if
(Sclerocarya birrea) linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and moisturizing the refrigerated
palmitic, and arachidonic; hair and scalp; is oen
is an antioxidant; contains added to cosmetics,
tocopherols, sterols, and such as eye shadows,
flavonoids for its moisturizing
properties
Meadowfoam seed Contains fatty acids; is an Helps with moisturizing, Infinite
oil (Limnanthes antioxidant; extends the UV protection, reducing
alba) shelf life of other oils wrinkles, chapped lips,
and damaged hair; is a
scent binder and
nongreasy carrier oil;
can replace emu or
ostrich oil
Moringa seed oil Also called ben oil; is Helps with moisturizing Up to 5 years
(Moringa oleifera) antiseptic and anti- and conditioning
inflammatory; contains
vitamins A and C and
fatty acids oleic, palmitic,
stearic, and behenic
Mowrah butter Contains essential fatty Helps heal and 1 year
(Madhuca latifolia) acids oleic, palmitic, moisturize burns and
linoleic, and stearic dry, chapped skin; gives
lotions, creams, lip
balms, and lipsticks a
creamy feeling
Neem seed oil Antiseptic, antifungal, Helps with fleas, lice, 2 years
(Azadirachta antibacterial, antiviral, and insect stings
indica) dermatological; is an
analgesic and insecticide
Olive oil Contains monounsaturated Helps with wrinkles; 1 year
(Olea Europaea) fat, vitamin E, phenols, dry, brittle hair and
and omega-3 and -6 fatty nails; and mature or
acids sensitive skin
Olive oil pomace Works a lot like jojoba, Very good for mature, 1 year
shea, or kukui nut oil and sensitive skin; great to
can retain moisture in the use in many bath and
skin without blocking the body products, not
skin’s ability to breathe just soap
Neem seed oil kills
fleas and head lice
but is nontoxic to
humans and ani-
mals and, therefore,
very safe to use on
children and pets.
Ch01_NB_IngredientsPreservatives.indd 10 5/23/13 4:13 PM
11your ingredients
Name Qualities Benefits Shelf Life
Ostrich oil Contains omega-3, -6, Helps heal dry skin, 12 to 18 months;
and -9 fatty acids; dermatitis, eczema, keep refrigerated
vitamin E; and amino acids and psoriasis; a
vegan alternative is
meadowfoam seed oil
Papaya seed oil Contains omega-3 and -6 Helps with dry skin, 2 years
(Carica papaya) essential fatty acids wrinkles, acne, eczema,
psoriasis, and dry or
brittle hair
Passion fruit oil Contains vitamins A, B, Helps with acne and 1 or 2 years
(Passiflora and C strengthens skin tissue
incarnate)
Peach kernel oil Contains vitamins A, B, Is a nongreasy carrier 2 years
(Prunus persica) and E oil; helps with dry or
mature skin
Peanut oil (Arachis Contains vitamin E Helps with dry and 6 months to 1 year
hypogaea) mature skin, eczema,
and psoriasis
Pequi oil (Caryocar Antiaging; contains Helps with dry skin, 2 years
Braziliensis) vitamin A eczema, psoriasis,
frizzy and brittle hair,
and general
moisturizing
Perilla seed oil Contains omega-3 fatty Helps with acne 1 or 2 years
(Perilla ocymoides) acids; is an antiseptic
Pomegranate seed Anti-inflammatory and an Good for moisturizing 6 months to 1 year;
oil (Punica antioxidant; contains fatty dry skin, helps with longer if refrigerated
granatum) acids oleic, palmitic, lino- skin elasticity, and
lenic, punicic, and stearic balances skin pH
Poppy seed oil Contains essential fatty Helps with dry or irri- 5 months to 1 year;
(Papaver acids linoleic, oleic, and tated skin, dry hair, longer if refrigerated
somniferum) palmitic, as well as both dry scalp, skin lesions,
alpha and gamma and inflamed skin; can
tocotrienols be used as a substitute
for hemp seed oil; seeds
are oen used in facial
or body scrubs to exfoliate
Plum kernel oil Sometimes called prune Soothes inflamed skin, 2 years
(Prunus domestica oil; is antiaging and an moisturizes dry skin,
seed oil) antioxidant; contains and penetrates skin
vitamins A and E plus quickly without leaving
essential fatty acids and a greasy feeling
omega-3 and -9
Pumpkin seed oil Contains omega-3 and -6 Helps with rosacea, 1 year
(Cucurbita pepo) fatty acids; vitamins A, C, eczema, psoriasis, and
and E; and zinc scars; is very rich, so a
little goes a long way
If you use peanut
oil in any of your
products, be sure
to label it clearly
so anyone with a
peanut allergy will
know not to use it.
Ch01_NB_IngredientsPreservatives.indd 11 5/23/13 4:13 PM
12 Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty Products
Name Qualities Benefits Shelf Life
Red raspberry Contains vitamins A and Helps with dry skin, 2 years
seed oil (Rubus E and omega-3 and -6 fatty eczema, psoriasis, and
idaeus) acids; is anti-inflammatory sun protection; can also
be used to extend the
shelf life of other oils
when mixed in
Rice bran oil Contains gamma oryzanol Good for moisturizing 1 year
(Oryza sativa) and for use in infusing
herbs
Rosehip seed oil Contains fatty acids and Renews skin cells, 12 to 18 months; keep
(Rosa rubiginosa) has antiaging properties repairs damaged tissue, refrigerated
fades age spots, and
helps with eczema and
general moisturizing
Safflower oil, high Contains vitamin E Helps moisturize dry 2 years
oleic (Carthamus (tocopherols, essential skin and hair
tinctorius) fatty acids oleic, palmitic,
and linoleic), lecithin, and
carotenoids
Sal butter Contains fatty acids oleic, Soens and moisturizes 1 year
(Shorea robusta) palmitic, linoleic, and skin and promotes
stearic healing from sun and
wind damage
Sesame seed oil Contains vitamins A and E, Helps heal dry skin, 1 year
(Sesamum indicum) plus several essential psoriasis, dry scalp,
proteins; is antibacterial, dandruff, skin fungi,
antioxidant, and antifungal athlete’s foot, acne,
mild scrapes and cuts,
and diaper irritation; is
resistant to clouding at
low temperatures
Shea butter Contains vitamins A, E, Helps with dry skin, 1 or 2 years; longer if
(Butyrospermum and F; is anti-inflammatory scars, dermatitis, refrigerated; can
parkii) and antimicrobial psoriasis, eczema, also be frozen
dandruff, and stretch
marks; is easily absorbed
into the skin and does
not clog pores
Strawberry oil Contains vitamins A, C, E, Helps with fine lines and 2 years
(Fragaria anassa) and F and omega-3 dry skin; is easily
fatty acids; antiaging absorbed into the skin
Sunflower oil, Contains vitamins A, D, and Soothes and 2 years
high oleic E as well as essential moisturizes skin and
(Helianthus annuus) fatty acid won’t clog pores
Even acne-prone
teens need to use
a moisturizer, and
you can formulate
one that won’t
aggregate acne by
using watermelon
and jojoba oils.
Look at the list of
essential oils later
in this chapter to
find ones that also
help with acne.
Ch01_NB_IngredientsPreservatives.indd 12 5/23/13 4:13 PM
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