5
Natural Beauty and Health
In Chapter 4, highlight and shadow were used to restore dimensionality to the face, focusing primarily on the bone structure. In this chapter we will look at other techniques that help define the face as well as give it natural, healthy color. The goal is to look like you are not wearing makeup.
The combination of contouring with natural health and beauty is often referred to as corrective makeup. Often, an actor will be asked to apply corrective makeup to look their healthy best and their own age.
Defining the Eyes
The eyes, along with the mouth, are the most expressive features of the face. Every actor wants his or her eyes to be more visible. Lining the eyes helps bring them to prominence. You can line the eyes with a well-sharpened liner pencil or a liquid liner. When you are applying makeup for a natural look, avoid a liner that is too dark for you. Unless your skin and/or hair are very dark, stick to brown liner and avoid black, otherwise it will look like you are wearing makeup.
Many women can line the top and bottom lids and still look natural. Often, when a man lines his upper lid he looks more feminine than he wants. Therefore, lining just the lower lid is a good alternative. Work towards the thinnest line you can draw. Thick eyeliner will "close up" the eye, and make the lids look smaller, which is the opposite of what is wanted.
WOMAN'S UPPER AND LOWER EYELIDS LINED WITH PENCIL
MAN'S LOWER EYELIDS LINED WITH PENCIL
Eyeliner can also be used to give a visual lift to the outer corners of the eye if they have drooped due to age. Begin drawing the line at the inner corner of the eye. After you have reached the middle of the eye, continue drawing your line upward and away from the natural eye line.
If you are a woman with very small upper eyelids or an Asian epicanthic fold, you need to be especially careful to make the line as thin as possible. Liquid liner can help you get a very thin line. You may also try lining just the lower lid.
Women can apply mascara to accentuate their lashes. Men should use mascara only when they are playing women or if they are performing in a very large venue, because up close it can create a feminine look.
EYELINER USED TO "LIFT" THE EYE
ASIAN WOMAN'S LOWER LID LINED WITH LIQUID LINER
If your eyebrows are light, or have some areas that are lighter than others, you may need to darken them. If you use an eyeliner pencil, make sure to sharpen it very well and use the side, not the point, to darken the hairs of the eyebrow. Tiy to avoid drawing directly on your skin, as it rarely looks natural.
Another option for darkening your eyebrows is mascara. Wipe off as much mascara from the wand as possible and carefully brush the remaining color onto the hairs of the eyebrow. Try to avoid getting it on your skin.
For a natural look a medium tone eye-shadow powder may be used to fill in sparse eyebrows. First brush with the hair, then against the hair, then with the hair a third time.
USING AN EYELINER PENCIL ON EYEBROWS
USING MASCARA ON EYEBROWS
EYEBROWS DARKENED WITH MASCARA
Cheek Color
A healthy face, even a man's, will have some color on the cheeks. For a natural look, one that does not appear made-up, apply the blush in a horizontal manner across the cheekbones.
If you are using cream blush, apply it before you set your makeup with powder. Pick up a little of the makeup with the pad of your middle finger. Lightly tap the makeup onto your cheekbone moving left and right. Use this tapping motion to help you blend out the edges. Tapping, rather than brushing or wiping, will prevent you from obliterating your highlight and shadow contouring.
TAPPING CREAM BLUSH ONTO CHEEKBONE
CREAM BLUSH ON WOMAN
CREAM BLUSH ON MAN
If you are using powder blush, apply it after you set your makeup with powder. Pick up a little of the makeup with a large, rounded brush and lightly brush it back and forth across your cheekbone. Blend out the edges for a natural look.
Blush can also be used judiciously across the forehead, on the nose and on the chin for an allover rosy glow.
BLENDED POWDER BLUSH
BLUSH APPLIED ALL OVER FOR A HEALTHY GLOW
Defining the Lips
Apply lip color before you use setting powder. Women should use a lip-lining pencil to follow the outline of the lips. Use your medium or small flat brush to blend the inside of the pencil line inwards, leaving the outer edge sharp.
Use your medium or small flat brush to pick up a small amount of neutral cream lip color and fill in the outline.
LINING THE LIPS
BLENDING THE LIP LINE INWARDS
FINISHED LIP COLOR ON A WOMAN
Men can apply neutral cream lip color and follow the shape of their lips without using the liner pencil. If the most neutral lip color available seems too feminine, mix some base into it to bring it closer to your skin tone.
If this is your final step, set your makeup with powder.
FINISHED LIP COLOR ON A MAN