Rhode Island
Rhode Island is not an island at all, but it claims more than its share of dramatic rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and languid riverbanks. The state was founded by religious dissenters from Massachusetts who chafed at the orthodoxies of Boston and Salem Puritans. The smallest US state, Rhode Island is divided by the very large, fan-shaped Narragansett Bay. At the head of the bay, the capital city of Providence revels in both its Colonial history and its futuristic outlook – the latter courtesy of its colleges and universities. The South County coastline west of the bay features idyllic barrier beaches with long, golden strands and fertile marshes trapped behind high dunes. The mouth of the bay is crossed by stepping-stone islands (and some magnificent bridges) that lead to the first home of the US Navy, now the yachting capital of Newport.
1. Newport
Nineteenth-century mansions and a snug harbor dotted with speedboats and racing yachts make Newport one of the great summer destinations. The downtown area is a history buff’s delight.
2. Providence
Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), a premier US art school, provides zing to downtown Providence, a city also known as a major dining destination. Benefit Street’s “Mile of History” captures in its museums and historic houses two-and-a-half centuries of New England life. Savor a cannoli and visit the galleries of Federal Hill on the West Side, a traditionally Italian district now developing a major art scene.
3. Watch Hill
The glorious beaches of South County, the Rhode Island shore west of Point Judith, reach their apogee at Watch Hill, an old-fashioned seaside community of the town of Westerly. The village also boasts the charming Flying Horse Carousel.
4. Pawtucket
So close to Providence that it can be hard to distinguish the two cities, Pawtucket flourished because it sits at the mouth of the Blackstone River, the storied stream of 19th-century industry that drains central New England. It was here that in 1793, Samuel Slater opened the country’s first successful cotton mill (for further details see Slater Mill, RI), jump-starting the American Industrial Revolution. Today it is best known for the minor-league Pawtucket Red Sox, and its Dragon Boat Race in September.
5. Bristol
Renowned for exuberant Independence Day celebrations that date from 1785, Bristol is a charming deep-water seaport on the east side of Narragansett Bay. The village is home to the Herreshoff yacht-building firm, whose museum also traces the history of the America’s Cup, the most prestigious prize in yacht-racing. Visit the house and gardens of the Blithewold estate, where Rhode Island brides flock to wed with spectacular vistas of Narragansett Bay as a backdrop.
Herreshoff Marine Museum • 1 Burnside St. • 401 253 5000 • open Apr–mid-Dec: 10am–5pm daily • adm • www.herreshoff.org
Blithewold Mansion & Gardens • 101 Ferry Rd. • 401 253 2707 • open mid-Apr–mid-Oct: 10am–4pm Wed–Sat (to 3pm Sun) • adm • www.blithewold.org
6. Narragansett/Point Judith
In 1900, a fire destroyed the fancy hotels and casino that made Narragansett Beach a high-society resort. Today, families and sunbathers rule the beach while surfers in wetsuits ride the waves. The peninsula leading south ends at Point Judith, which shelters the busy fishing port of Galilee. Whale-watch and deep-sea-fishing cruise vessels share berths with the fishing boats. Don’t miss fish dinner at George’s of Galilee.
7. Tiverton/Little Compton
Occupying their own little peninsula between Narragansett Bay and the Massachusetts border, Tiverton and Little Compton are insulated from the modern world by woods and rolling farmland. Watch for roadside stands selling seasonal strawberries and sweet corn. Wine grapes also flourish. Visit Sakonnet Vineyards for tours and tastings. One of New England’s largest wineries, Sakonnet has switched from French-American hybrid grapes to European varietals. Its gewürztraminer is a standout.Sakonnet Vineyards • 162 W Main Rd., Little Compton • 800 919 4637 • open late May–mid-Oct: 10am–6pm daily; mid-Oct–late May: 11am–5pm • www.sakonnetwine.com
8. Block Island
Just 13 miles (21 km) off the coast, Block Island has long been a summer vacation haven for New Englanders. A quarter of its land is protected against development (zoning prohibits modern structures), and 30 miles (48 km) of nature trails crisscross the pear-shaped island. Crescent Beach, just north of the Victorian resort village of Old Harbor, has fabulous swimming and – when the wind is right – good surfing. Deep-sea-fishing excursions are popular day-trips from Old Harbor.Block Island Ferry • Pt. Judith • 401 783 7996 • www.blockislandferry.com
9. Wickford
Artists and craftspeople have flocked to this salty village of the town of North Kingstown, and their galleries and shops (along with the picturesque, deeply historic village itself) are big lures for daytrippers from Providence and the Connecticut coast. What few visitors realize is that Wickford’s location on the west side of Narragansett Bay makes it the ideal launching point for exploring the bay by sea kayak. Inquire about expert guided paddles at the Kayak Centre of Rhode Island.Kayak Centre of Rhode Island • 9 Phillips St. • 401 295 4400 • daily year-round • adm • www.kayakcentre.com
10. Charlestown
It can be hard to tell whether Charlestown is land or water, as the 4-mile (6.4-km) coastline encompasses the largest saltwater marshes in the state. You’ll find some of New England’s best birding for wading birds and waterfowl in this watery ecosystem between land and sea. Sprawling Ninigret Park has tracks for cyclists and bladers as well as a swimming pool and tennis courts. Every clear Friday night, join the astronomy buffs at Frosty Drew Observatory to scan the skies.Frosty Drew Observatory • 61 Park Ln., Ninigret Park • 401 364 9508 • open clear Fri nights, year-round • www.frostydrew.org
What a span!
Constructed 1966–9, Newport’s Claiborne Pell Bridge is not only the longest bridge in Rhode Island, it’s also the largest suspension bridge in New England. With a main span of 1,601 ft (488 m) and an overall length of 11,247 ft (3,428 m), the bridge arcs over Narragansett Bay to connect Jamestown and Newport.
A Stroll Through Providence History
Morning
In 1994, Providence re-claimed the once-industrial banks of its river with the linear park called the River Walk. Start your stroll at Waterplace Park, a broad pool and amphitheater between Francis and Exchange streets. Cross the Steeple Street Bridge, noting the soaring Ionic columns of the First Baptist Church in America on the left. To tide you over until a late lunch, pop into Cafe Choklad • 2 Thomas St. 
Google Map for hot chocolate and brioche before climbing the hill to Benefit Street. Make your first stop on the hill at the fabulous RISD Museum. On Benefit Street you’ll pass the Greek Revival Providence Athenaeum, where macabre master storyteller Edgar Allan Poe courted Sarah Whitman.
Afternoon
When you reach the corner of Power Street (no.52), you’ll finally get to go inside one of the manses – now the John Brown House Museum, built in Georgian style in 1786, and the most lavish Providence home of its day. The impeccable restoration shows Brown’s luxurious furnishings as well as the cozier, less ostentatious tastes of succeeding generations. The family founded Brown University, where you can shake out the cobwebs of the past on Thayer Street, a short walk northeast. You’ve earned that late lunch, so join the youthful masses for pasta, pizza, or a burger at Cafe Paragon • 234 Thayer St. Google Map before you hit the shops.
Best of the Rest
1. Audubon Society of Rhode Island Environmental Education Center
Explore marine life at this family-friendly wildlife refuge.1401 Hope St., Rte. 114, Bristol • 401 245 7500 • Open daily • Adm • www.asri.org
2. Beavertail Lighthouse Museum
There’s been a lighthouse here since 1749. The keeper’s house is now a museum.Beavertail State Park, Jamestown • 401 423 3270 • Open Jun–early Sep daily; Oct Sat & Sun • Adm • www.beavertaillight.org
3. Casey Farm
This 18th-century farmhouse offers a glimpse into Rhode Island’s agricultural past. Produce grown here is sold on saturdays.2325 Boston Neck Rd., Saunderstown (North Kingstown) • 401 295 1030 • Open Jun–mid-Oct Tue, Thu & Sat • Adm
4. Green Animals Topiary Garden
A Rhode Island Red rooster is one of the 80 topiaries at the US’s oldest topiary garden.380 Cory’s Lane, off Rte. 114, Portsmouth • 401 847 1000 • Open late May–early Oct daily • Adm • www.newportmansions.org
5. City Center Ice Rink
Skate in the shadow of Rhode Island’s tallest skyscraper – the 428-ft (130-m) Art Deco “Superman Building.”2 Kennedy Plaza, Providence • 401 331 5544 • Open late Nov–early Mar daily • Adm • www.kennedyplaza.org/skating-information
6. Pawtuxet Village
A mid-June parade marks the 1772 burning of a British ship by local patriots. Dozens of Colonial buildings feature in the historic district.Warwick
7. Museum of Work and Culture
This museum in a former textile mill details the lives of those who worked here and in other local factories.42 S. Main St., Woonsocket • 401 769 9675 • Closed Mon • Adm • www.rihs.org
8. Gilbert Stuart Birthplace and Museum
Artist Gilbert Stuart (1755–1828) painted the celebrities of his day. A tour here uncovers his modest beginnings.815 Gilbert Stuart Rd., Saunderstown • 401 294 3001 • Open May–mid-Oct Thu–Mon • Adm • www.gilbertstuartmuseum.org
9. East Bay Bike Path
Zip down the bayside path between East Providence and Bristol for views of Narragansett Bay on one side, herons and egrets on the other.
10. Pawtucket Red Sox Baseball, McCoy Stadium
Many top baseball players perfected their game with this Boston Triple-A team. Grab a seat in McCoy Stadium and you might spot the next rising star.1 Columbus Ave., Pawtucket • 401 724 7300 • Open Apr–Sep • Adm • www.pawsox.com
Restaurants
1. White Horse Tavern
America’s oldest tavern (since 1673) offers classic American cuisine in a setting of beamed ceilings, log fires, and candlelit tables.26 Marlborough St., Newport • 401 849 3600 • Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • over $65
2. Le Central
East Bay (as in Narragansett) meets Left Bank (as in Paris) at this French bistro with a short menu of excellent comfort food (such as cassoulet with duck confit) and spectacular local fish.483 Hope St., Bristol • 401 396 9965 • Closed Sun–Mon • $40–$50
3. Trio
Trio serves chops, pasta, and seafood at bargain prices. Dig into a juicy rib-eye steak, basil rigatoni, or pan-seared scallops.15 Kingstown Rd., Narragansett • 401 792 4333 • $40–$50
4. Al Forno
Baked pastas and meats roasted in a wood-fired oven have brought Al Forno fame as one of the best casual restaurants in the US.577 S. Main St., Providence • 401 273 9760 • Closed Sun, Mon, Tue–Sat L • $50–$65
5. Wright’s Farm Restaurant
This 1,000-seater is the best of the Rhode Island “all-you-can-eat chicken dinner” restaurants.84 Inman Rd., Harrisville • 401 769 2856 • Closed Mon–Fri L, Mon–Wed D • under $25
6. New Rivers
Spicy contemporary cooking at its best pairs with an intimate dining space for a truly romantic experience.7 Steeple St., Providence • 401 751 0350 • Closed L, Sun D • $50–$65
7. Chez Pascal
The chef-owner of this unabashedly Burgundian bistro makes his own pâtés, sausages, and confits. Share a charcuterie appetizer followed by the pork of the day.960 Hope St., Providence • 401 421 4422 • Closed L, Sun • $50–$65
8. Castle Hill Inn
Enjoy fine local seafood and sweeping views of Narragansett Bay at this high-class Newport dining room.590 Ocean Dr., Newport • 401 849 3800 • Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • over $65
9. Atlantic Inn
The four-course, fixed-price dinners are the star attraction here. Prized verandah tables have spectacular sunset views.High St., Block Island • 401 466 5883 • Closed late Apr–late May & Sep–late Oct Mon–Wed D; L all year • $50–$65
10. Bridge
Take a detour to this top downtown destination for creative US cuisine. The focus is on local food, and in particular fresh, native seafood.37 Main St., Westerly • 401 348 9700 • $40–$50
Cafes and Bars
1. Perks & Corks
By day, Perks & Corks is a slacker’s dream of a coffee bar, with smooth lattes, free Wi-Fi, and enveloping sofas. After dark it morphs into a bar with wines by the glass and killer cocktails.48 High St., Westerly
2. Chan’s Fine Oriental Dining
Known for its “eggroll jazz,” Chan’s hops on the weekends when blues bands and small jazz combos set the diners’ fingers snapping. The Chinese fare draws on several regional cuisines.267 Main St., Woonsocket
3. Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen
Catch the sunset from this atmospheric bar on Newport Harbor, while enjoying a glass of chardonnay with a bowl of steamed clams.41 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport
4. Costantino’s Venda Ravioli
This Italian gourmet shop, with a huge selection of pastas, cheeses, and sausages, also serves coffee and food at tables in the back.265 Atwells Ave., Providence
5. Trinity Brewhouse
Trinity is a “United Nations” of beer; its ales, lagers, and stout made on the premises recall English, German, and Irish styles. It’s a popular after-show venue with playgoers at Trinity Repertory Theatre.186 Fountain St., Providence
6. Olympia Tea Room
Score one of the outdoor tables at this delightful spot near the Flying Horses Carousel, and you can watch the action while you sip white wine and lunch on roasted clams with linguine.74 Bay St., Watch Hill
7. Scales & Shells
After the dinner rush, this all-fish restaurant turns into a convivial bar, where patrons can enjoy local shellfish from the raw bar with their wine and beer.527 Thames St., Newport
8. George’s of Galilee
Stop off here to savor the pick of the catch from the Galilee fishermen; many spend their evenings at the bar.250 Sand Hill Cove Rd., Narragansett
9. 22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille
More than 600 wines make this bar and steakhouse a wine-lover’s oasis. Watch boat traffic in the harbor, while tucking into prime rib or slurping down oysters.22 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport
10. McKinley’s Waterfront
This warm Irish pub is a welcome find on a cool winter night, especially thanks to more than 20 ales on tap. In summer, the outdoor seating overlooking Greenwich Bay is an ideal spot to sip a brew and watch the sailboats go by1 Division St., East Greenwich
