New Hampshire
The aptly nicknamed Granite State is a thick wedge of rock between two great rivers – the Connecticut on the west and the Piscataqua on the east. Its initial settlements in the 1620s were strictly coastal, but within a generation, explorers had ventured deep into its woods for furs and timber, and despite the rugged topography, many of the villages in the White Mountains were well underway by the time of the American Revolution. Most residents live along the southern edge of the state, often driving to Massachusetts for employment. Northern New Hampshire remains almost untracked forest. American scenic tourism began in the White Mountains in the 1820s, and those peaks and the villages on their flanks remain major vacation destinations. New Hampshire also boasts a chain of alpine lakes and a short but lively seacoast, where vacationers from as far away as Montreal flock to the shore.
1. White Mountains
The White Mountains have a special place in American history. When early-19th-century poets, philosophers, and theologians sought inspiration, they made a pilgrimage to these majestic hills to experience the sublime.
2. Lakes Region
Vast lakes and small ponds form a watery belt across New Hampshire’s midriff. Seek solitude among the loons on a remote cove, or party all night on Weirs Beach (for further details see Lakes Region).
3. Portsmouth
Portsmouth was New Hampshire’s first English community, settled at the mouth of the Piscataqua River in 1623. Plentiful timber and a deep harbor made it a natural for ship-building, and from 1780 to 1870 its merchant traders grew rich. Walk the handsome squares of the Colonial settlement to see some of New England’s finest in-town mansions – and to breathe the salt air that has always been Portsmouth’s life-blood. The historic houses of Strawbery Banke relate the city’s four-century domestic history.
4. Keene
At 132 ft (40 m) wide for most of its length, Keene’s Main Street is easily the widest in New England – wide enough to absorb the tens of thousands who come to town for the annual Pumpkin Festival. Keene regularly lights 20,000-plus jack-o’-lanterns in the finale. For the rest of the year it’s a more sober-minded shire town with a lively mix of shops and art galleries, and the good bars and cafés you’d expect in a college community.
5. Hanover
It’s hardly a bad thing, but Dartmouth College utterly overwhelms the rest of Hanover. The town green and the college green are one and the same, and the shopping district clearly favors the tastes of young scholars and their well-heeled parents. But Dartmouth holds many riches, even for the visitor just passing through. Not least among them are the art treasures of the Hood Museum. Most recreational programs of the Dartmouth Outing Club, including boat rentals, are open to non-students as well.
Ledyard Canoe Club of D.O.C. • Ledyard Bridge • 603 643 6709 • open May–Oct; call for availability • adm
6. Lake Sunapee
This alpine lake – its name, meaning “wild goose waters,” is of American-Indian origin – was a major Victorian resort where vacationers stepped off the train onto steamboats to be delivered to their grand lakefront hotels. The hotels are gone, but private cottages (many for rent) ring the lake, and the harbors of Sunapee and Newbury are busy spots in the summer, with free outdoor concerts and bustling restaurants. Tour the lake on steamboat replica MV Kearsarge.MV Kearsage • 1 Lake Ave., Sunapee • 603 938 6465 • open late May–mid-Oct • adm • www.mvkearsarge.com
7. Beaches
New Hampshire’s brief stretch of coastline is more rock than sand, with rugged promontories and rock jetties protecting its fishing harbors. The coast is also punctuated by swathes of coarse brown sand. Jenness State Beach and Wallis Sands State Beach in Rye and North Beach in Hampton have the best-maintained facilities and gentlest swimming. Hampton Beach is by far the most popular.
8. Concord
The state capital, Concord is a serene little town steeped in history. Its handsome 1819 State House is one of the country’s oldest. The celebrated Concord stagecoaches that helped to open up the American West were manufactured here; Mark Twain memorably described one as being “like a cradle on wheels.” The city’s most famous modern resident was schoolteacher Christa McAuliffe (1948–86), who died aboard the Challenger space shuttle. Her dedication to science education is memorialized at the McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center.New Hampshire Historical Society Museum • 6 Eagle Sq. • 603 228 6688 • open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun (also 9:30am–5pm Mon Jul–mid-Oct and Dec) • adm • www.nhhistory.org
9. Manchester
The largest city in northern New England, Manchester rose and fell with the Amoskeag Mill. From humble beginnings in 1809 on the east bank of the Merrimack River, it grew into the world’s largest cotton-mill complex by the dawn of the 20th century. The textile era has long since ended in Manchester, but the hulking brick mills have been transformed into a lively complex of restaurants, college classrooms, offices, and apartments. The city’s comprehensive Currier Museum of Art is the state’s premier art museum.
10. Yankee Country
It’s no surprise that Yankee Publishing, which produces both Yankee Magazine and the Old Farmer’s Almanac, is based in the rural village of Dublin. The homespun village and its neigh-boring towns of Jaffrey and Peterborough epitomize the gentle New England countryside. The region was a popular resort area in the late 19th century, and all three villages have long served as staging grounds for people preparing to climb nearby Mount Monadnock – if local lore is to be believed, the second most-climbed peak in the world after Japan’s Mount Fuji.
Live Free or Die
Some visitors might imagine that the state motto proclaimed on license plates refers to New Hampshire’s lack of sales and income taxes, but in fact it originated with a toast that the state’s Revolutionary War hero, General John Stark, offered by letter to the 1809 reunion of veterans of the Battle of Bennington, when poor health prevented him from attending: “Live free or die: death is not the worst of evils.”
A Day’s Drive on the Kancamagus Highway
Morning
Before you begin the 35-mile (56-km) drive from Lincoln to Conway, stop at Half Baked & Fully Brewed • 187 Main St., Lincoln 
Google Map for picnic fixings. After a gentle 11-mile (18-km) rise, you’ll climb steeply through switchbacks for 4 miles (6 km) to the Graham Wangan Ground Overlook for jaw-dropping mountain views. As the road twists and turns for another 6 miles (10 km), watch for a right turn into the trailhead to Sabbaday Falls. A short walk through dense, pine-scented woods brings you to the waterfall, which makes a dramatic 90-degree dog-leg as it tumbles down a mountain. The Rocky Gorge Scenic Area, a further 4 miles east, is a geological wonder. Cross a bridge to follow a short trail to Falls Pond, where fishermen cast for trout.
Afternoon
Another 3 miles (5 km) east, spread your food on a picnic table at Lower Falls, overlooking the boulder-strewn Swift River. The green pools below the largest boulders make cool summer swimming holes. In the fall, photographers scramble across the boulders trying to capture the intense red and yellow foliage. From the Falls, it’s only a short drive to the Albany covered bridge. The weathered 120-foot (37-m) span is a favorite with photographers and you’ll surely want a shot to remember your journey. From the bridge, it’s about 7 fairly flat miles (11 km) to the end of the “Kanc” in Conway.
Best of the Rest
1. Odiorne Point State Park
Tidal pools, pebble beaches, and marshlands surround the site of New Hampshire’s first English settlement.Rte. 1A, Rye • 603 436 7406 • Open year-round daily • Adm • www.nhstateparks.org
2. Mount Kearsarge Indian Museum
Admire intricate craftwork and learn how plants were used for food and medicine.Kearsarge Mountain Rd., Warner • 603 456 2600 • Open May–Oct: daily • Adm • www.indianmuseum.org
3. Mount Sunapee State Park
A pristine lake for swimming, fishing, and boating, as well as 65 ski trails in winter.86 Beach Access Rd., Newbury • 603 763 5561 (park); 603 763 3500 (resort) • Open late May–mid-Sep (beach); late Nov–mid-Apr (ski resort) • Adm • www.nhstateparks.org
4. Crawford Notch State Park
This vast wilderness is a hiker’s paradise. Climb 2,804-ft (855-m) Mount Willard for great views.1464 Rte. 302, Hart’s Location • 603 374 2272 • Open May–Nov: daily • Adm • www.nhstateparks.org
5. Children’s Museum of New Hampshire
A human-sized kaleidoscope and an interactive sound sculpture are two of the imaginative exhibits.6 Washington St., Dover • 603 742 2002 • Closed Mon except in summer and school vacations • Adm • www.childrens-museum.org
6. Wellington State Park
The huge swimming beach on Newfound Lake is a summer favorite. Hike the nature trails in the fall for the brilliant foliage.650 W. Shore Rd., Bristol • 603 744 2197 • Open mid-May–mid–Oct: weekends only except mid-Jun–Aug daily • Adm • www.nhstateparks.org
7. Enfield Shaker Museum
Like the furniture and tools displayed inside, the Great Stone Dwelling has an austere grace.447 Rte. 4A, Enfield • 603 632 4346 • Open daily • Adm • www.shakermuseum.org
8. Wright Museum
This museum focuses on the heroic efforts of the US services in World War II, as well as the sacrifices on the home front.77 Center St., Wolfeboro • 603 569 1212 • Open May–Oct • www.wrightmuseum.org
9. Budweiser Brewery Tour
An informative tour concludes with a tasting. The stables of the famous Clydesdale horses are a highlight.221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack • 603 595 1202 • Closed Tue & Wed Jan–Apr • Free
10. Rhododendron State Park
Stroll along and immerse yourself in the color and aroma of the towering rhododendrons that bloom here in June and July.424 Rockwood Pond Rd., Fitzwilliam • 603 532 8862 • Open year round • Free • www.nhstateparks.org
Winter Activities
1. Manchester Monarchs
A family-friendly atmosphere underscores the games of this American Hockey League affiliate of the Los Angeles Kings.555 Elm St., Manchester • 603 626 7825 • Open Oct–Apr • Adm • www.manchestermonarchs.com
2. Outdoor Skating
Low temperatures guarantee a long season of outdoor skating on the Schouler Park rink in this picturesque village.Schouler Park, Main St., North Conway • Open Dec–Mar • Free
3. Snowmobiling
Marvel at the hushed beauty of New Hampshire’s snow-clad mountains in winter on a guided snowmobile tour.SledVentures • 514 US Rte. 3, Lincoln • 603 238 2571 • Open Nov–Mar • Adm • www.nhsledventures.com
4. SnowCoach
This special vehicle carries passengers above the treeline on Mt. Washington Auto Road for winter vistas.Great Glen Trails • 1 Mt. Washington Auto Rd., Gorham • 603 466 2333 • Open Dec–Mar daily • Adm • www.mtwashingtonautoroad.com
5. Snow Tubing
For old-fashioned fun, climb a snow-covered hill and then whiz back down on a cushy, oversized inner tube.Great Glen Trails • 1 Mt. Washington Auto Rd., Gorham • 603 466 2333 • Open Dec–Mar daily • Adm • www.greatglentrails.com
6. Horse-drawn Sleigh Rides
Large sleighs depart several times daily. For romance, go for the intimate Victorian option.Farm by the River • 2555 West Side Rd., North Conway • 603 356 6640 • Open Dec–Feb daily • Adm • www.farmbytheriver.com
7. Dog Sledding
Alaskan huskies set off into the forested hills of Bretton Woods on trips of 20 minutes to an hour, led by experienced guides.Mount Washington Resort • Rte. 302, Bretton Woods • 603 278 1000 • Open Dec–Apr Thu–Sun • Adm • www.mountwashingtonresort.com
8. Nordic Skiing
Glide along scenic trails at the edge of the White Mountain National Forest. The Waterville Valley Nordic Center teaches skate skiing.Waterville Valley Resort • 1 Ski Area Rd., Waterville Valley • 603 236 4666 • Open Dec–Mar • Adm • www.waterville.com
9. Alpine Skiing
New Hampshire’s many top-class ski runs are easily reached via Rte.16 or 1-91.
10. New England Ski Museum
The first aerial ski tramway in the US opened on Cannon Mountain in 1938. This museum traces the development of the sport.Exit 34B I-93/Franconia Notch Parkway, Franconia • 603 823 7177 • Open late May–Mar daily • Free • www.skimuseum.org
Pubs and Nightlife
1. Elm City Brewing
The four-beer sampler offers a taste of the ales, porters, and stouts brewed in this 19th-century former woolen mill. Cozy booths make it ideal for conversation.Colony Mill Marketplace, 222 West St., Keene
2. Harlow’s Pub
Stop in at this relaxed venue on Monday nights for a bluegrass jam; or try weekends, when it might be rock and blues, reggae, or even gypsy jazz.3 School St., Peterborough
3. Strange Brew Tavern
This friendly, bustling tavern serves a wide range of local brews along with familiar pub grub as well as an extensive menu. Live local bands perform most nights.88 Market St., Manchester
4. The Press Room
Still going strong after three decades, this pub features live jazz from Sunday to Tuesday. The rest of the week might bring Celtic music and sea shanties, blues, soul, folk, or even poetry.77 Daniel St., Portsmouth
5. Flying Goose Brew Pub
With a schedule of live music, “the Goose” lures regulars and travelers alike for hearty traditional food, malty ales made on the premises, and lively conversation.40 Andover Rd., New London
6. The Shaskeen
This atmospheric pub was founded by two Irish musicians who put equal effort into the nightly schedule of traditional Irish music and the classic Irish fare.909 Elm St., Manchester
7. Patrick’s Pub & Eatery
On Thursday nights, Boston comics make the trek to this lively dive, and bands keep everyone rocking on the weekends. Pints of Guinness complement the Irish-themed menu.18 Weirs Rd., Gilford
8. Barley House
With a dozen fine imported and locally brewed beers on tap and a wood-paneled pub room, the Barley House feels more like a private club than a public bar.132 N. Main St., Concord
9. Woodstock Inn, Station & Brewery
English malts and international hops yield a range of outstanding ales geared for hikers, skiers, and outdoors enthusiasts.135 Main St., N. Woodstock
10. Moat Mountain Smoke House & Brewing Co.
This ski-country restaurant takes barbecue seriously. The brisket is Texas dry rub, the pork comes Carolina-style (vinegar doused), and ribs come St. Louis-style. Match them all with the caramel brown ale.3378 White Mountain Hwy., Rte. 16, N. Conway
Restaurants
1. Ristorante Massimo
Sophisticated, largely northern Italian dishes make great use of New England seafood, especially lobster from local waters. The romantic dining room is set in a Federal-era custom house.59 Penhallow St., Portsmouth • 603 436 4000 • Closed L, Sun • $50–$65
2. Black Trumpet Bistro
The chef-owner transforms local seafood and produce into lusty American bistro dishes.29 Ceres St., Portsmouth • 603 431 0887 • Closed L • $50–$65
3. Inn at Thorn Hill & Spa
Upscale meat-and-potatoes with a French accent head up this bold menu. Wine is taken very seriously.Thorn Hill Rd., Jackson • 603 383 4242 • Open B, L & D daily • $50–$65 (D) • $40–$50 (B, L)
4. Pine
Located at the venerable inn that serves as the center of Dartmouth College’s social scene, Pine serves farm-to-table fare with local ingredients.2 S. Main St., Hanover • 603 646 8000 • $50–$65
5. Luca’s Mediterranean Cafe
Northern Italian cuisine reigns at this casual but classy trattoria, although specials may be from North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean.10 Central Sq., Keene • 603 358 3335 • Closed Apr–Dec: Sat–Sun L; Jan–Mar: Sun • $25–$40
6. Hart’s Turkey Farm Restaurant
It’s Thanksgiving every day at this family restaurant specializing in roast turkey dinners with all the fixings. You can also get your gobbler as a fricasee or with pasta.233 Daniel Webster Hwy., Rtes 3 & 104, Meredith • 603 279 6212 • $25–$40
7. Three Chimneys Inn
French country cooking is given a strong American accent here.17 Newmarket Rd., Durham • 603 868 7800 • Closed Sun–Mon L • $50–$65
8. Cotton
Start with New Hampshire’s best martini, then order from the menu of updated comfort food – meatloaf and mash, steak salad, buttermilk-fried chicken – in this seriously hip spot.75 Arms St., Manchester • 603 622 5488 • Closed Sat–Sun L • $25–$40
9. Colby Hill Inn
Located in a romantic country setting, Colby Hill offers stately dining on classic New England dishes.3 The Oaks, Henniker • 603 428 3281 • Closed L; Sun brunch • $50–$65
10. Libby’s Bistro
Creative contemporary cooking by Julia Child’s former assistant has put the ski village of Gorham on the culinary map.111 Main St., Gorham • 603 466 5330 • Closed L, Mon–Tue D • $40–$50
