Vermont
Things are always looking up in Vermont – unless you’re looking down from the top of a ski run. The majestic Green Mountains that cover the state compensate for the lack of a seacoast. Between the peaks stand high green meadows and deep, dark lakes, two of which are said to harbor sea serpents. Settled in the 1700s under conflicting land grants from New York and New Hampshire, Vermont was an independent republic from 1777, becoming the 14th US state in 1791. A rugged independence persists in Vermonters, who despite severe winter weather seem to be outdoors year-round – hiking, skiing, skating, sledding, cycling, kayaking, hunting, and fishing. If you wanted a single image to sum up Vermont, you could do worse than a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a bike rack on top emerging from one of the state’s 107 covered bridges against a brilliant background of autumn leaves.
1. Green Mountains
It would scarcely be an exaggeration to say that Vermont is the Green Mountains and vice versa, as this ancient range in the Appalachian chain touches almost every part of the state.
2. Brattleboro
Vermont’s first permanent English settlement, Brattleboro flourished in the 19th century as a Connecticut River manufacturing town at the juncture of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts. The town got a new lease on life in the 1960s as the counterculture capital of the upper Connecticut River Valley, and is known around the state for its stridently liberal politics. The thriving cultural community includes several galleries, a performing arts center, and a school of circus arts which is open to the general public.
3. Grafton
Wealthy philanthropists saved this beautiful village in the 1960s when they formed the Windham Foundation to restore its handsome historic buildings and revitalize commerce. They did a great job. Stop to visit Plummer’s Sugar House, sample the excellent cheddars of the Grafton Village Cheese Co., or refresh yourself at The Old Tavern, a 200-year-old inn and restaurant that functions as the de facto local tourist office.
Plummer’s Sugar House • 123 Townshend Rd. • 802 843 2207 • www.plummerssugarhouse.com
Grafton Village Cheese Co. • 533 Townshend Rd. • 800 472 3866 • www.graftonvillagecheese.com
Old Tavern • 92 Main St. • 802 843 2231
4. Woodstock and Quechee
It’s little wonder that Woodstock is such a popular destination for weddings and civil unions. With its broad town green, meticulously restored Federal and Victorian houses, covered bridge in the middle of town, and five churches boasting Paul Revere bells, it is the very picture of old-time Vermont. Even the Billings Farm serves as a museum of Vermont rural life. Head east on Route 4 to see the vertigo-inspiring 165-ft (50-m) deep gorge carved by the Ottauquechee River.
5. Montpelier
For an iconic Vermont image, stop along State Street during foliage season to take a snapshot of the gold-domed State House backed by a hillside of red and flame-orange maple trees. The city was selected for state capital in 1805 because it lies at the geographic center of Vermont as well as in the main east-west pass through the Green Mountains. The highly regarded New England Culinary Institute guarantees that Montpelier eats well, especially at the school’s NECI on Main.
6. Shelburne
Standing on high banks above Lake Champlain just south of Burlington, Shelburne is a village of magnificent dairy farms, not least among them the historic spread of Shelburne Farms. A locomotive, a steamship, and buildings crammed with folk art dot the rolling meadows of Shelburne Museum. South of town, just into Charlotte, the Vermont Wildflower Farm has over 350 species of flowering plants and trees on the grounds. Get seeds at the farm shop.Vermont Wildflower Farm • 3488 Ethan Allen Hwy., Charlotte • 802 425 3641 • open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily • free • www.vermontwildflowerfarm.com
7. Burlington
Settled shortly before the American Revolution, Burlington, unlike the rest of Vermont, takes its identity less from the Green Mountains than from the great inland sea of Lake Champlain. Burlington shipyards turned the mountain timber into trading vessels. Learn about the city’s boating history at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum. Blessed with a handsome, largely 19th-century downtown, Burlington also enjoys a busy cultural life as a by-product of the presence of the state university.
8. Northeast Kingdom
“Northeast Kingdom” refers to Essex, Orleans, and Caledonia counties in the state’s northeast corner – an area sometimes referred to simply as “The Kingdom”. In Vermont cultural shorthand, the term connotes both a rural, frontier toughness and an easy familiarity with the latest developments in the world of avant-garde performance art. With only two large communities – St. Johnsbury and Newport – it is one of the most rural parts of the state. The Northeast Kingdom is known above all for skiing, resplendent autumn foliage, and delicious maple syrup.
9. Newport
Vermont’s northernmost city sits at the southern edge of Lake Memphremagog, a body of water 27 miles (43 km) long that is shared with the province of Quebec. A glacial lake that was a saltwater inland sea at the end of the Laurentian glaciation, Memphremagog has long been rumored to hold a sea serpent akin to the Loch Ness Monster. Sightings of the elusive creature that locals call “Memphre” date to the 18th century. Take a stroll along the attractive waterfront and see if you can spy those watery coils from the safety of the shore.
10. St. Johnsbury
“St. J,” as Vermonters call it, is both the hub of the state’s Northeast Kingdom and the gateway between the Green Mountains of Vermont and the White Mountains of New Hampshire. When Thaddeus Fairbanks invented the platform scale in 1830, St. Johnsbury was his manufacturing center. The Fairbanks clan left its stamp on the town, donating both the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium, and the Athenaeum, a library and gallery with magnificent landscape paintings.Athenaeum Gallery • 1171 Main St. • 802 748 8291 • open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–5pm Sat (to 3pm in summer) • adm • www.stjathenaeum.org
Ethan Allen
Vermont folk hero Ethan Allen (1738–89) led a militia called the Green Mountain Boys. He is hailed for rebuffing colonial governors and British troops alike in a quest for Vermont’s independence. His capture of Fort Ticonderoga from British forces in 1775 played a key strategic role early in the American Revolution.
A Day Hiking in Robert Frost Country
Morning
Robert Frost (1874–1963), the seminal poet of the New England countryside, spent 39 summers in the Green Mountain National Forest. This easy-to-moderate day of hiking captures the poet and the landscape he loved. Start with pancakes and maple syrup at the Rochester Cafe • Rte. 100, Rochester • 802 767 4302 
Google Map, at the same soda fountain where Frost used to eat, and have the café pack you a lunch. Drive west on Rte. 125 to the Robert Frost Interpretive Trail, where you can read some of Frost’s pithy verse and learn to identify native plants. Just east of the almost adjacent Robert Frost Wayside picnic area, a 5-minute walk on an unmarked dirt road will bring you to Frost’s cabin at the Homer Noble Farm, maintained as he left it.
Afternoon
When the muse evaded Frost, he sought solace in the woods. For a hike (rather than a stroll), head east on Rte. 125 a short distance and turn left onto Steam Mill Road. A little way further on, park at the Skylight Pond trailhead. The well-blazed path ascends the flank of Battell Mountain, crisscrossing the hillside through a forest of white birch, red oak, and hemlocks. Over-grown and tumbledown stone walls proclaim old boundary lines, as forest reclaims farmland. The moderate 45-minute climb ends on a ridge connecting to the legendary Long Trail. Turn left for a short hike to Skyline Lodge, a rustic shelter for hikers.
Best of the Rest
1. President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site
The independent spirit of his home village inspired Coolidge (1872–1933). Today, he would still recognize many sites.3780 Rte. 100 A, Plymouth • 802 672 3773 • Open daily late May–mid-Oct • Adm • www.historicvermont.org
2. Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium
Vermont flora and fauna mingle with Philippine and Indian birds in this natural history museum.1302 Main St., St. Johnsbury • 802 748 2372 • Closed Mon Nov–Mar • Adm • www.fairbanksmuseum.org
3. UVM Morgan Horse Farm
The graceful Morgan horse, one of the first US breeds, is bred here.74 Battell Dr., Weybridge • 802 388 2011 • Open daily May–Oct • Adm • www.uvm.edu/morgan
4. Bennington Museum & Grandma Moses Gallery
Stop by and browse this major collection of work by folk artist Grandma Moses (1860–1961).75 Main St., Bennington • 802 447 1571 • Closed Jan; Wed • Adm • www.benningtonmuseum.org
5. VTSSM
Displays at Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum chart skiing in the state from the introduction of powered lifts in the 1930s to the present day.1 S. Main St., Stowe • 802 253 9911 • Closed Tue, Nov, Apr–May • donation • www.vtssm.com
6. Robert Hull Fleming Museum
Artifacts ranging from African masks and pre-Columbian pottery to medieval manuscripts and Andy Warhol prints are displayed here.61 Colchester Ave., Burlington • 802 656 2090 • Closed Mon; mid-Dec–mid-Jan; mid-Mar • Adm • www.uvm.edu/~fleming
7. Vermont Institute of Natural Science
Injured eagles, hawks, and other raptors, unable to return to the wild, get a second home here.6565 Woodstock Rd., Rte. 4, Quechee • 802 359 5000 • Adm • www.vinsweb.org
8. Montshire Museum
Nature trails at this science museum amplify the natural history exhibits.1 Montshire Rd., Norwich • 802 649 2200 • Open daily • Adm • www.montshire.org
9. Vermont Covered Bridge Museum
Learn how Vermont’s iconic bridges were constructed.Rte. 9 at Gypsy Ln., Bennington • 802 442 7158 • Closed Tue May–Dec, Sun Jan–Apr • Adm
10. American Museum of Fly Fishing
Rods, reels, flies, and books tell the story of this most philosophical of outdoor pursuits.4104 Main St., Manchester • 802 362 3300 • Closed Mon May–Oct, Sun–Mon Nov–Apr • Adm • www.amff.com
Tastes of Vermont
1. Cold Hollow Cider Mill
Drop by for the zing of freshly-pressed cider. The store brims with Vermont specialties.3600 Waterbury-Stowe Rd., Rte. 100, Waterbury Center • 802 244 8771 • Open daily • Free • www.coldhollow.com
2. Lake Champlain Chocolates
See local cream and butter blended with fine chocolate to form decadent bars and truffles.750 Pine St., Burlington • 802 864 1808 • Factory tours: Mon–Fri • Free • www.lakechamplainchocolates.com
3. Magic Hat Brewery
Magic Hat’s oddball brews include raspberry stout, honey ale, and bourbon-cask-aged lager.5 Bartlett Bay Rd., S. Burlington • 802 658 2739 • Open daily • Free • www.magichat.net
4. Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory
Vermont farms provide the rich milk for the super-premium ice creams and yogurts.Rte. 100, Waterbury • 866 BJ TOURS • Open daily • Adm • www.benjerry.com
5. Maple Grove Farms Maple Museum and Gift Shop
Learn how tree sap becomes a breakfast favorite. Then watch that maple syrup further transformed into candies.1052 Portland St., St. Johnsbury • 802 748 5141 • Open Apr–May: Mon–Fri; Jun–Dec: daily • Adm • www.maplegrove.com
6. Bragg Farm Sugar House & Gift Shop
On weekends in March and April, enjoy the local specialty “sugar on snow.” In summer, cool off with a maple milkshake at this family operation.Rte. 14 N., E. Montpelier • 802 223 5757 • Open daily • www.braggfarm.com
7. Shelburne Farms
Watch milk from Brown Swiss cows turned into superb cheddar at this farm overlooking Lake Champlain.1611 Harbor Rd., Shelburne • 802 985 8442 • Store open daily; tours May–Oct • Adm for tours • www.shelburnefarms.org
8. Cabot Creamery
The shop at Vermont’s largest cheese producer stocks a wide range of dairy products, from aged cheddars to rich butters and yogurt.2878 Main St., Cabot • 800 837 4261 • Closed Sun Nov–May • Adm (for tour) • www.cabotcheese.com
9. Crowley Cheese Co.
This is Vermont’s oldest cheese factory (1882), noted for its prize-winning Colby cheese.14 Crowley Ln., Healdville • 802 259 2340 • Open Mon–Sat • www.crowleycheese-vermont.com
10. Vermont Country Store
This emporium still has a pickle barrel and huge wedges of cheddar. Try its own Vermont Common Crackers.657 Main St., Weston • 802 824 3184 • Open daily • www.vermontcountrystore.com
Bars and Cafes
1. Higher Ground
The state’s premier music venue hosts an array of acts, from chart-toppers to obscure indie bands. Three full-service bars keep the crowds fueled.1214 Williston Rd., Burlington • 802 253 4364 • under $25
2. Prohibition Pig
A friendly local hangout that whips up classic cocktails alongside Vermont’s most acclaimed craft beers. Delicious barbecue fare and a glutenfree menu keep the patrons satiated.23 S. Main St., Waterbury • under $25
3. McGrath’s Irish Pub
Darts, Guinness on draft, and live music on weekends await you at this amiable pub.Inn at Long Trail, 709 Rte. 4, Sherburne Pass, Killington
4. Baba-a-Louis Bakery
In addition to selling French baguettes and organic whole wheat loaves to take home, there’s a lunch buffet featuring sandwiches and soups.92 Rte. 11 W., Chester
5. Drink
This sophisticated northern Vermont bar offers splashy mojitos, cosmopolitans, and a selection of home-infused vodkas. Traditionalists may bypass the lounge in favor of beer and televised sports at the bar.135 St. Paul St., Burlington
6. Das Bierhaus
Authentic German, Swiss, and Austrian family recipes pair nicely with one of the state’s best beer lists. The cozy interior and roof-top deck are often packed with festive groups.175 Church St., Burlington • 802 881 0600 • $25–$40
7. Jasper Murdock’s Alehouse
This cozy Norwich pub brews its own English-style ales. It attracts large numbers of students from nearby Dartmouth College, as well as local ski buffs.325 Main St., Norwich
8. Matterhorn
The first bar south of Stowe’s Mt. Mansfield, the Matterhorn is party central after a day of skiing. Duck into the sophisticated martini bar to escape the hubbub.4969 Mountain Rd., Stowe
9. Perfect Wife Restaurant
Judging by the menu, a “perfect wife” can cook a pot of chili or grill a steelhead trout. Live music on weekends brings in the local crowd.2594 Depot St., Manchester Center • under $25
10. Mocha Joe’s Cafe
Artists, musicians, and all self-respecting Brattleboro Bohemians get caffeinated at this roaster café known for its winter maple lattes and summer limeade.82 Main St., Brattleboro
Restaurants
1. Inn at Shelburne Farms Restaurant
This elegant dining room makes the most of northern Vermont’s short but high-grade harvest, from early lettuces to fall apples.1611 Harbor Rd., Shelburne • 802 985 8498 • Open mid-May–mid-Oct, B and D daily, Sun brunch • $50–$65
2. The Belted Cow Bistro
Champions of farm-to-fork dining, the talented chef-owners Caitlin and John serve contemporary flavors of Vermont.4 Park Way, Essex Junction • 802 316 3883 • Closed L, Sun–Mon • $50–$65
3. NECI on Main
Student chefs at the New England Culinary Institute start their training here. Weekend brunch features stunning European charcuterie.118 Main St., Montpelier • 802 223 3188 • Closed Mon; open Sat & Sun brunch • $25–$40
4. Blue Cat Steak & Wine Bar
Certified Angus steak, fresh seafood, and vegetarian options popularize this upscale restaurant tucked away in a downtown alley.1 Lawson Lane, Burlington • 802 363 3639 • Closed L • $50–$65
5. Simon Pearce Restaurant
Savor the scenic riverside location, superb food, and fine wine. Pearce, a famed glass artist, has a studio on site.1760 Quechee Main St., Quechee • 802 295 1470 • Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • $40–$50
6. Kitchen Table Bistro
This cozy bistro operated by two graduates of the New England Culinary Institute has a strong northern-French accent. Try the maple-smoked pork and braised kale.1840 W. Main St., Richmond • 802 434 8686 • Closed L, Sun & Mon D • $50–$65
7. Starry Night Cafe
Dining here in a covered bridge or a former cider house is as magical as the restaurant name. The hearty American food is mostly raised or grown locally.5371 Rte. 7, Ferrisburg • 802 877 6316 • Closed L, Mon & Tue D • $50–$65
8. Pistou
Contemporary American cuisine prepared with aplomb. The inviting menu is filled with local, seasonal ingredients.61 Main St., Burlington • 802 540 1783 • Open D, Tue–Sat • over $65
9. American Flatbread
This wildly popular eatery churns out gourmet pizzas and salads, all made with organic, Vermont-raised ingredients.137 Maple St., Middlebury • 802 388 3300 • Closed L, Sun–Thu; D, Sun–Mon • under $25
10. The Inn at Weathersfield
The inventive chef here might pair pork loin and scallops with capers, or pumpkin soup with local blue cheese.1342 Rte. 106, Perkinsville • 802 263 9217 • Closed L, Mon–Wed D • $50–$65
