Connecticut
The Connecticut River – New England’s largest arterial waterway – touches four states, but only gives its name to one. Settlers from Boston established Hartford on the riverbank in 1635, ultimately creating the first fully articulated constitution in the American colonies. Three years later, more Bostonians pitched their tents on Long Island Sound and created New Haven, where a small school would move in 1716 and blossom into Yale University. Harnessing the river for power, Connecticut inventors proved some of the country’s most ingenious entrepreneurs. But Connecticut is as beautiful as it is industrious, as American artists demonstrated a century ago when they painted the upland woods and the spreading green and gold marshes of Long Island Sound.
1. Litchfield Hills
Stretching west from the Connecticut River to the New York border, the Litchfield Hills are Connecticut’s proper, manicured mountains. Model 18th- and 19th-century communities of white houses and white churches cluster around tidy town greens. In spring, waterfalls roar off the hillsides and you’ll find hardy fishermen wading cold mountain brooks to cast flies for trout. In summer, the smell of newly mown lawns and the sweet scents of perennial flower gardens perfume the air.
2. Hartford
As the state capital, Hartford has a wealth of grand buildings and institutions, from the ornate Victorian-Gothic Connecticut State Capitol in Bushnell Park to America’s first public art museum, the Wadsworth Atheneum, founded in 1842. Hartford was also a hotbed of 19th-century publishing and writing. The Mark Twain House, where America’s greatest yarn-spinner and frontier humorist enjoyed a later life of middle-class comfort, and the charming Gothic-Revival-style Harriet Beecher Stowe Center next door underscore the city’s literary prominence. Stop to smell the roses – more than 800 varieties of them – in Elizabeth Park, whose rose garden was created in 1904.
3. Wethersfield
The epitome of Colonial and Federal style, the center of Old Wethersfield has a genteel grace that belies its early history as a frontier community beleaguered by Indian attacks. The distinctive architecture lining the community’s broad streets – and the weathered headstones of its cemetery – make Old Wethersfield a destination for Colonial history buffs.
4. Gold Coast
The communities that lie along the stretch of the New Haven commuter rail line from Greenwich north to Norwalk are the wealthiest in Connecticut – hence the nickname “Gold Coast.” When residents want to go shopping, they head to Greenwich, where boutiques cater to local hedge-fund millionaires. To dine or to party, they usually make a beeline for South Norwalk, where a bustling restaurant and bar scene has taken hold.
5. New Haven
Ever since the Collegiate School moved to town in 1716, town and gown have been in-extricably linked in New Haven. Fabulous collections at the Yale University Art Museums and the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History put larger cities to shame. New Haven’s culinary legacy includes the legendary pizzas of Frank Pepe, and the hamburger – purportedly invented in 1900 at Louis’ Lunch (263 Crown Street).
Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History • Whitney Ave. and Sachem St. • 203 432 5050 • open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun • adm • www.yale.edu/peabody
6. Midcoast Beaches
The great shield of Long Island shelters the sandy shoreline between New Haven Harbor and the mouth of the Connecticut River at Old Lyme. Protected from storms and erosion, the barrier beaches feature soft sand and gentle surf. Many private beach communities are located here, but so are the main state-owned beaches, including the 2-mile (3-km) strand at Hammonasset Beach State Park. Communities like Branford and Clinton live for the sweet but brief summer. Shops are often seasonal.
7. Lower Connecticut River
Designated as a “last great place” by the Nature Conservancy, the lower reaches of the Connecticut, from East Haddam to Lyme, have a magical beauty that captivates artists and sustains fish and wild-life – including large numbers of bald eagles in the winter. See how the American Impressionists captured the scene at the Florence Griswold Museum in Old Lyme, and explore the rich history and fascinating ecology of the region at the Connecticut River Museum in Essex.Connecticut River Museum • 67 Main St., Essex • 860 767 8269 • open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (late May–early Sep daily) • adm • www.ctrivermuseum.org
8. New London and Groton
The deepwater port at the mouth of the Thames (pronounced to rhyme with James) River – New London on the west side, Groton on the east – lies roughly halfway between Boston and New York. It was a key base of operations for the American Navy during the Revolution; nowadays, ocean cruise ships call here. The massive shipyards of Electric Boat, builder of nuclear-powered submarines, lie in Groton. Explore the naval legacy at the Submarine Force Museum, home of the world’s first nuclear-powered sub, the USS Nautilus.
9. Mystic and Stonington
Classic small seafaring ports of the eastern Connecticut coast, Mystic and Stonington diverged when Mystic developed as a tourism center (for further details see Mystic Aquarium, CT). Quieter Stonington, just 4 miles (6.5 km) away, retains all the hallmarks of a 19th-century fishing and shipping port. Stonington is dotted with upscale boutiques, cheery cafés, and bars where fishermen and antiques dealers drink side by side.
10. Quiet Corner
The unassuming nickname for Connecticut’s northeastern corner suggests that little of excitement has happened here since General Israel Putnam killed the last wolf in Connecticut and made the region safe for sheep-farming. In truth, this area of bucolic repose is dotted with the homes of onetime country squires – including the flamboyant Roseland Cottage-Bowen House. The region is often overlooked by travelers bent on reaching the Foxwoods and Mohegan Sun casinos, but antiques hunters know to stop in Putnam.
Amistad and freedom
In July 1839, African slaves aboard the schooner Amistad revolted and were taken into custody at New Haven. Two years of legal battles ensued in New Haven and Hartford, but the slaves won their freedom. Memorials stand in several spots in Connecticut, and a replica ship makes New Haven its home port.
A Walking Tour of New Haven
Morning
Start by picking up a campus map from the Yale Visitor Center, in the city’s oldest house (1767). Then head to City Hall • 165 Church St. 
Google Map, where an outdoor sculpture commemorates the Amistad incident. Opposite, New Haven Green is the site of three architecturally distinguished early-19th-century churches. Leave the green to enter Yale’s Old Campus, with its stunning High-Victorian-Gothic buildings, through Phelps Archway on College Street. From this rarified enclave, re-enter the modern world on Chapel Street, where you can join students for lunch at Claire’s Corner Copia • 1000 Chapel St. Google Map, for delicious vegetarian fare.
Afternoon
After lunch, shop till you’ve had your fill on Chapel Street. Now explore some of Yale’s innovative newer buildings, among them the Yale Center for British Art and the Yale University Art Gallery by famed modernist architect Louis Kahn. Turn right on High Street to return to the heart of campus. Across Elm Street, Sterling Memorial Library was built in 1930 in modern Gothic style. Yale has a wealth of public art; across from the library in Cross Campus, alumna Maya Lin’s mesmerizing water sculpture honoring Yale women is a fine example. Cross Wall Street to enter Hewitt Quad, dominated by the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library. Follow Wall Street to a right turn onto Temple Street to return to your starting point.
Gardens and House Museums
1. Roseland Cottage (Bowen House)
This pink, Gothic-style cottage was the summer getaway for the wealthy New York Bowen family.556 Rte. 169, Woodstock • 860 928 4074 • Open Jun–mid Oct: Wed–Sun • Adm • www.historicnewengland.org
2. Florence Griswold Museum
View the history of American Impressionism at this former rooming house, where artist-boarders painted more than 40 panels on the walls.96 Lyme St., Old Lyme • 860 434 5542 • Closed Mon • Adm • www.flogris.org
3. Hill-Stead Museum
Step into an aristocratic world of privilege and elegance at this hilltop estate.35 Mountain Rd., Farmington • 860 677 4787 • Closed Mon • Adm • www.hillstead.org
4. Elizabeth Park Rose Gardens
In June, 15,000 plants burst into bloom here, the US’s oldest municipal rose garden.Prospect Ave., Hartford • Open daily • Free • www.elizabethpark.org
5. Bush-Holley Historic Site
This museum pinpoints two revolutions in Cos Cob: the political upheaval of the 1770s and the artistic ferment of American Impressionism, 125 years later.39 Strickland Rd., Cos Cob • 203 869 6899 • Open Wed–Sun (Feb–Mar: Sat, Sun) • Adm by guided tour • www.hstg.org
6. Glebe House Museum & Gertrude Jekyll Garden
This 1750 home has the only US garden created by famed British designer Gertrude Jekyll.149 Hollow Rd., Woodbury • 203 263 2855 • Open May–Oct: Wed–Sun; Nov: Sat, Sun • Adm • www.theglebehouse.org
7. Lockwood-Mathews Mansion Museum
Decorative excesses abound at this estate, built for a wealthy banker and railroad tycoon.295 West Ave., Norwalk • 203 838 9799 • Open Apr–Jan: Wed–Sun • Adm • www.lockwoodmathewsmansion.com
8. Bartlett Arboretum
Woodlands, wetlands, formal gardens, and meadows make a living museum of 850 specimen trees.151 Brookdale Rd., Stamford • 203 322 6971 • Open daily • Adm • www.bartlettarboretum.org
9. Harriet Beecher Stowe Center
Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, moved into this, her last home, in 1873.77 Forest St., Hartford • 860 522 9258 • Open Wed–Sun (Jun–Oct: Tue–Sun) • Adm • www.harrietbeecherstowecenter.org
10. Bellamy-Ferriday House & Garden
Built for a legendary preacher in the 18th century, the final owner was a civil rights activist.9 Main St., Bethlehem • 203 266 7596 • Open May–Aug: Wed, Fri–Sun; Sep–Oct: Fri–Sun • Adm • www.ctlandmarks.org
Children’s Activities
1. Connecticut’s Beardsley Zoo
Siberian tigers are the top cats at this 300-animal zoo. Also spy on the wolves from the observation area.1875 Noble Ave., Bridgeport • 203 394 6565 • Open daily • Adm • www.beardsleyzoo.org
2. New England Air Museum
It’s hard to tell if dads or kids get more out of the 125 aircraft and 200 or so engines here.36 Perimeter Rd., Bradley International Airport, Windsor Locks • 860 623 3305 • Open daily • Adm • www.neam.org
3. Maritime Aquarium at Norwalk
This aquatic center highlights the creatures in its own backyard, like harbor seals and sleek sand tiger sharks.10 N. Water St., Norwalk • 203 852 0700 • Open daily • Adm • www.maritimeaquarium.org
4. UConn Animal Barns & Dairy Bar
Watch the cows being milked, then head to the dairy bar for freshly made farm ice cream.
University of Connecticut, Storrs • Open daily
Animal barn • 860 486 2023
Dairy bar • 860 486 2634
5. Mashantucket Pequot Museum
This museum recounts the area’s history from the perspective of its pre-colonial inhabitants.110 Pequot Trail, Mashantucket • 800 411 9671 • Open Wed–Sat • Adm • www.pequotmuseum.org
6. Ocean Beach Park
This kids’ paradise features a beach, pool with waterslide, miniature golf course, and rides.99 Neptune Ave., New London • 860 447 3031 • Open late May–early Sep • Adm • www.ocean-beach-park.com
7. The Dinosaur Place
Over 25 life-sized concrete dinosaurs wait to be discovered here, along nature trails through lush woodlands.1650 Rte. 85, Montville • 860 443 4367 • Park open Apr–Nov, store year-round • Adm • www.thedinosaurplace.com
8. Essex Steam Train & Riverboat Ride
Take the throttle in a diesel-train simulator, before riding a vintage train along the Connecticut River.1 Railroad Ave., Essex • 860 767 0103 or 800 377 3987 • Open May–Dec • Adm • www.essexsteamtrain.com
9. International Skating Center of Connecticut
Many Olympic skaters train at this top ice rink which also reserves slots for public skating.1375 Hopmeadow St., Simsbury • 860 651 5400 • Call for public skating hours • Adm • www.isccskate.com
10. Garbage Museum
Learn about recycling here. The museum’s mascot is a 24-ft (7.3-m) dinosaur sculpture made from discarded materials.1410 Honeyspot Rd., Stratford • 203 381 9571 • Open Jul–Aug: Tue–Fri; Sep–Jun: Wed-Fri • Adm • www.crra.org
Fine Dining
1. Oyster Club
Restaurant and raw bar that specializes in fresh seafood. The menu, written daily, showcases the produce of local farmers and fishermen.13 Water St., Mystic • 860 415 9266 • Closed Mon–Thu L • $50–$65
2. Union League Cafe
The French chef-owner brings the hearty, market-driven cuisine of a Parisian brasserie to the sophisticated streets of New Haven near Yale University.1032 Chapel St., New Haven • 203 562 4299 • Closed Sat L, Sun • over $65
3. Max Downtown
Tasty beef ranges from petite steak au poivre to giant porterhouse at this bustling urban chophouse.City Place, 185 Asylum St., Hartford • 860 522 2530 • Closed Sat & Sun L • $50–$65
4. Cottage Restaurant & Cafe
Years in New Orleans gave the hearty New American cooking of the chef-owner a distinct Cajun accent. Gourmet cuisine at budget prices – and her bartender brother mixes a mean cocktail.427 Farmington Ave., Plainville • 860 793 8888 • Closed Sun, Mon amp; Sat L • $40–$50
5. Hopkins Inn
The menu here is laden with Austrian fare such as schnitzel and sweetbreads. The wine selection follows suit.22 Hopkins Rd., New Preston • 860 868 7295 • Open B, L, D Tue–Sun (Tue–Sat Jan–late Mar) • $50–$65
6. Bar Americain
Glitzy environs and expertly executed French and American classics from highly acclaimed celebrity chef, Bobby Flay.1 Mohegan Sun Blvd., Uncasville • 860 862 8000 • Closed L • over $65
7. Good News Cafe
The chef-owner insists on using only local, sustainable, organic products. But her food is never precious, just delicious.694 Main St. S., Woodbury • 203 266 4663 • Closed Tue • $50–$65
8. Match
Sparkling seafood dishes, inventive seasonal American fare, and rich desserts are a perfect match to the hippest bar on SoNo’s restaurant row.98 Washington St., South Norwalk • 203 852 1088 • Closed L • $50–$65
9. Flood Tide Restaurant
Views of Long Island Sound and the ambience of soft piano music are a great match for the market-led cuisine. Diners near the open kitchen can watch chefs play with fire.Inn at Mystic, 3 Williams Ave., Mystic • 860 536 9604 or 800 237 2415 • Closed L • $40–$50
10. 85 Main
Sample the superb seafood in either the cozy dining room or the blue-and-white tiled bar.85 Main St., Putnam • 860 928 1660 • $50–$65
Casual Dining
1. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
The thin-crust pizza at this no-frills joint open since 1925 has an almost cult following among Yale students. White clam pizza (no tomato sauce) is among the most popular.157 Wooster St., New Haven • 203 865 5762 • under $25
2. O’Rourke’s Diner
Dating from the mid-1940s, the best food at this classic diner comes fresh off the grill.728 Main St., Middletown • 860 346 6101 • Open 5am–2pm Sun–Thu, 5am–9pm Fri–Sat • under $25
3. Rawley’s Drive-In
When customers stand in line for 20 minutes, it’s clear a restaurant is doing something right. At Rawley’s, it’s the hot dogs that keep them coming back for more.1886 Post Rd., Rte. 1, Fairfield • 203 259 9023 • Open 11am–6:30pm Mon–Sat • under $25
4. The Cookhouse
Wood-smoked barbecued meat is nearly a religion here. Top sellers are pork back ribs, Carolina-style pulled pork, and slow-roasted beef brisket.31 Danbury Rd., New Milford • 860 355 4111 • under $25
5. Blackie’s Hot Dog Stand
Since 1928, Blackie’s has offered hot dogs with or without homemade spicy pepper relish, birch beer on tap, and chocolate milk.2200 Waterbury Rd., Cheshire • 203 699 1819 • Closed Fri • under $25
6. Mystic Pizza
A Julia Roberts movie made this pizza-and-pasta joint famous, but diners keep returning for the excellent “secret recipe” tomato sauce that’s generously slathered on the pizzas.56 W Main St., Mystic • 860 536 3700 • under $25
7. Shady Glen
The homemade ice cream is great, but it’s the cheeseburgers that are the top stars here.840 E. Middle Tpk., Manchester • 860 649 4245 • Open B, L, D daily • under $25
8. Cove Fresh Fish Market
Clam fritters, whole-belly fried clams, and the fried cod sandwich are the most popular plates at Cove, a seafood market that also cooks the catch.20 Old Stonington Rd., Mystic • 860 536 0061 • Open Jun–Sep: 11am–8pm Mon–Thu, Sun, 11am–9pm Fri–Sat; Oct–May: 11am–7.30pm Wed–Sun • under $25
9. Rein’s
Who’d have thought that central Connecticut would make better Jewish deli food than most of New York? Chopped liver, latkes … It’s a quick stop off highway I-84.435 Hartford Tpk., Vernon • 860 875 1344 • under $25
10. West Street Grill
Casual lunches are a big hit here, especially the burgers and the pulled short-rib beef sandwich. Strong New American dinner menu.43 West St., Litchfield • 860 567 3885 • $50–$65
Cafes and Bars
1. The Loft
Connecticut’s best martinis are all you really need to know about The Loft, so named for the people-watching mezzanine up a wrought iron staircase.97 Washington St., S. Norwalk
2. Black-Eyed Sally’s
Blues and barbecue grew up together in the Mississippi Delta, and Sally’s serves up both. The Southern juke-joint ambience matches the musicians that perform here.350 Asylum St., Hartford
3. Toad’s Place
One of the state’s biggest dance floors and a sound system that could rock a stadium make Toad’s the dance venue on a Saturday night.300 York St., New Haven
4. Pastorale Bistro & Bar
Lauded for its French bistro classics made with locally grown ingredients, this bistro and boîte in a 1760 Colonial house boasts a sophisticated list of cocktails and a good wine cellar.223 Main St., Salisbury • www.pastoralebistro.com
5. Water Street Cafe
Locals favor Water Street for great oysters at the raw bar, chilled white wine, and live guitar music, but don’t overlook lively dishes like the lobster spring rolls or warm duck salad.143 Water St., Stonington
6. @ The Corner
This hip bakery (formerly The Blue Bakery) makes frosting-piled cakes and pies bursting with fillings. It also serves good coffee and espresso, and a selection of soups, sandwiches, and salads.3 West St., Litchfield
7. MacDuff’s Public House
There’s a certain amount of tartan posturing in the decor of this upscale Scottish-themed pub. European soccer often dominates the TV over the bar.99 Railroad Ave., Greenwich
8. Max’s Oyster Bar
Showmanlike presentation of the raw-bar offerings sets the tone for this polished, dressy seafood restaurant.964 Farmington Ave., West Hartford • 860 236 6299 • Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • www.maxrestaurantgroup.com
9. Delaney’s Tap Room
Beer is taken seriously here, with 60 active taps going at a time. Another 120 beers come in bottles. The bartenders are winners of the national Stella Artois beer-pouring contest.882 Whalley Ave., New Haven
10. Wine Bar at the Griswold Inn
Mature cheeses and tapas-style platters can be matched with at least 50 wines at this intimate bar, where the walls are covered with maritime art.36 Main St., Essex
