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Modernista Marvels

t Overlooking the city from Gaudí’s psychedelically tiled bench, Park Güell

Oh My Gaudí!

From the vast, as yet unfinished, spires of the Sagrada Família to the luxuriant gardens of the Park Güell, guarded by a pair of fairy-tale pavilions, Gaudí is everywhere you look in Barcelona. As well as these large-scale public works, he designed scores of imaginative private homes for wealthy patrons and there are equally inventive ways to visit each of them. Sip a glass of cava to the sound of a string quartet on the otherworldly roof of Palau Güell, take an augmented reality tour of Casa Batlló or join Gaudí himself – or Mrs Ramoneta, the family’s maid – on a kids’ tour of La Pedrera, with an actor.

Driving the Cadafalch

With neo-Gothic spikes and sculptures, Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s architecture recalls Catalonia’s glory years in the Middle Ages, when it ruled a vast Mediterranean empire. Check out the imposing façade of Casa Terrades, which has needle-thin turrets. Cadafalch designed Casa Amatller, the home of wealthy chocolatier Antoni Amatller i Costa, to resemble a Gothic palace but, covered in sculptures of animals making and eating chocolate, this building differs from his other designs. Take a tour of the residence, climbing the grand staircase to the family’s private apartments, before dipping a biscotti into a steaming cup of hot chocolate.

Climbing the Montaner

Lluís Domènech i Montaner is often described as the father of Modernisme. He designed two of Barcelona’s most glorious buildings – the Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau. Guided tours are available for both of these buildings, but catching a concert under the stained glass in the Palau de la Música Catalana or in the grand gardens of what is now the Sant Pau Recinte Modernista is an absolutely unforgettable experience.

Ruta del Modernisme

As well as covering the big-name sights – and entitling you to discounts – this self-guided walking tour will lead you to the city’s hidden Modernista gems (www.rutadelmodernisme.com). Pick up a guide from any of Barcelona’s tourist offices and follow the red plaques to some of the 120 buildings. Browse the wooden shelves of the charming Farmàcia Bolós (Rambla de Catalunya 77), after snapping a picture of its stained-glass doorway, or admire the cathedral-like Casa Martí before enjoying a tipple in the tiled Els 4 Gats on the ground floor.

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