SOUTH GOA
Goa’s idyllic south coast caters to a growing number of visitors every year. Fringed by some of the region’s finest beaches such as Palolem, Agonda and Colva, South Goa’s coastline is still more sedate when compared to the bustling beaches on the northern strip. Margao is the state’s second city after Panaji, and is the main market town. The little hidden gem Bogmalo is a perfect base for exploring the southern stretch. Inland, the villages of Chandor and Loutolim are scattered with a cluster of sumptuous Portuguese-era mansions, including the delightful 300-year old Braganza House. Further east from Margao is Rachol, which is renowned as the site of a 16th-century Jewish seminary. In the far south, the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is a paradise for birds and offers a rare glimpse of rich flora.
1. Palolem
Charming Palolem’s remote location, away from the crowded beaches of Central Goa, makes it ideal for a quiet holiday. The beach stretches on for miles, and is lined with coconut palms, shacks and Thai-style camping huts. The restaurants here are stylish and the nightlife is dominated by the weekly headphone parties, which circumvent the ban on amplified music after 10pm in Goa.
Colourful wooden beach huts, Palolem
2. Bogmalo
Once a quiet fishing village, Bogmalo is now a busy town, close to one of India’s busiest naval bases and Dabolim Airport. The beach is clean and is usually not too crowded. Head to the many bars and shacks along the beach for a break and for live music. The vicinity is also packed with sights such as the fascinating Naval Aviation Museum.
3. Three Kings Church
Muder, Cansaulim
North of Cansaulim, perched atop a hill in Cuelim, is the Church of Our Lady of Remedios, commonly known as the Three Kings Church. It is believed to be haunted and harks back to the legend of three Portuguese kings, one of whom plotted to poison the others, but died himself in the process. All three were buried inside the church and ever since then, locals claim to have sighted ghostly apparitions here. The small church is famous for the Three Kings Feast celebrated in January every year. During the feast, three young boys are chosen from any of the neighbouring villages to represent the three kings. The celebrations also include a colourful fair, which is held on the grounds of the church. Visitors can enjoy lovely views of the surrounding areas from here.
4. Loutolim
Picturesque Loutolim features several remnants of Goa’s fine Portuguese heritage. In the heart of the village lies the majestic 16th-century Church of Salvador do Mundo (Saviour of the World). Nearby is Ancestral Goa, which offers a unique glimpse into traditional trades and crafts from over a hundred years ago. The village is also home to many impressive stately homes, including the historic 500-year old Figueiredo Mansion and Casa Araujo Alvares.
Ancestral Goa in Loutolim
5. Chandor
About 13 km (8 miles) east of Margao is the sleepy village of Chandor. Between the 6th and 11th centuries, Chandor, then known as Chandrapur, was the capital of the Kadamba dynasty. It remained the capital until 1054 when the Kadambas moved to Govapuri, now known as Goa Velha. However, the Muslim invasion in 1312 forced the Kadambas to move back to Chandrapur, but only for a brief period as the Portuguese invaded the city in 1327. Today, the main attraction here is Braganza House, which is regarded as the grandest of Goa’s colonial mansions.
Antique furniture in the charming Braganza House, Chandor
6. Colva
Known for its powder-white sands, Colva’s 25-km (16-mile) long sandy beach draws vast numbers of visitors, who spend the day enjoying the lively atmosphere of its many beach shacks, which serve delicious seafood specialities. Hotels and guesthouses line the main beach road, while the southern end features more pristine stretches. Standing a short distance from the sea is Colva’s Church of Our Lady of Mercy, built in 1630. The church has an attractive Baroque interior and houses the famous statue of Menino (baby) Jesus, holding an orb and a flag, revered for its miraculous healing powers.
7. Goa Chitra Museum
With over 4,000 artifacts on display, this splendid ethnographic museum is highly regarded by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Founded by artist-turned-curator Victor Hugo Gomes, the museum showcases a unique collection of antique agricultural tools set up against the backdrop of a traditional organic farm. A unique aspect is its use of traditional recycling techniques. The museum is also home to the Goa Chakra museum, which displays ancient modes of transportation in India and Goa Cruti’s collection, which features exhibits based on the state’s colonial past.
8. Margao
A commercial hub, the bustling town of Margao serves as the area’s main trading centre. The town square features the colonial Municipal Building, which houses an impressive library on its southern side. Just behind the building, to the south, are Margao’s lively bazaars, selling the day’s catch of fish. Its central square, Largo de Igreja, is surrounded by colourful 18th- and 19th-century town houses. In the centre of the square is a monumental,16th-century cross, overlooked by the Church of the Holy Spirit. Nearby is the unique Sat Burnzam Ghor mansion.
Bust at the Municipal Garden, Margao
9. Agonda
With relatively few visitors, this pristine beach makes for a great spot to sunbathe. The sea is slightly rough here, so the waters may not always be ideal for a swim. At the northern end of the beach is the nesting site of the protected Olive Ridley turtles. Away from the beach, visitors can opt for yoga, meditation and Ayurveda classes. There are also a number of reliable operators offering dolphin-spotting trips.
10. Rachol Seminary
Built in 1606, the Rachol Seminary is probably the most important of Goa’s seminaries. For generations, this was Goa’s most prestigious educational institution, both for secular and religious studies. The entrance is covered with impressive murals and opens on to a central courtyard. The grand staircase, adorned with Hindu sculptures, leads to the library, which has a rare collection of Latin and Portuguese books. Attached to the seminary is the Church of St Ignatius Loyola, which has a beautiful 16th-century pipe-organ from Lisbon.
Façade of the Rachol Seminary
THE VASCO SAPTAH
One of the biggest festivals in Goa, the Vasco Saptah has been a Goan tradition since 1898. It is said that during an epidemic, the locals visited the Zambaulim temple in Margao and brought back a coconut to Vasco. Soon after, a miracle occurred and the plague ended. The festival is now celebrated every year for seven days in August.
A DAY IN SOUTH GOA
MORNING
Spend the day admiring the colonial architecture of the historic Portuguese-era mansions scattered inland from Margao. Head to the fascinating Ancestral Goa in Loutolim, also known as Big Foot Museum, a model village with life-size statues of craftsmen depicting early Goan village life. Next, drive 13 km (8 miles) east of Margao, to sleepy Chandor to explore one of Goa’s grandest colonial mansions, Braganza House. The house built in the 1500s has a huge double storey façade with 28 windows flanking its entrance. A 30-minute drive southeast of Margao will lead you to Quepem, where you can stop for lunch at the superb Palácio do Deão, a 200-year old Indo-Portuguese mansion. Enjoy a Goan meal on the terrace overlooking the river.
AFTERNOON
Next, head to Palolem Beach, which is one of South Goa’s most famous beaches. Lined with coconut palms, its clear waters are perfect for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Scuba diving is offered by Shanti Divers (www.shantidivers.com). In the evening, head to Ourem 88 for a sumptuous meal. Enjoy European gastro dishes made from fresh local ingredients here. After dinner make your way to Silent Noise, located on a rock promontory at the southern end of the bay. Headphone parties are held here on Saturday nights.
The Best of the Rest
1. Figueiredo Mansion
This 16th-century mansion in Loutolim is older than the Taj Mahal. It is a fine combination of Indian and Portuguese architecture.
2. Naval Aviation Museum
Bogmalo Rd, Vasco da Gama • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm (additional charge for photography) • www.navalaviationmuseumgoa.com
A unique military museum which displays the evolution of the Indian Naval Aviation. It exhibits rare and old aircrafts and torpedoes.
3. Sao Jacinto and Sao Antonio Islands
These two islands are dotted with traditional houses. Highlights are an old Portuguese lighthouse and the St Hyacinth Church.
4. Palácio do Deão
This 213-year-old mansion was built by a Portuguese church dean. Lush with gardens, it continues to preserve its history.
5. Cabo da Rama
This fort belonged to various rulers until 1763, when it was occupied by the Portuguese. The observation post offers great views.
Breathtaking views from the Cabo da Rama fort
6. Ancestral Goa
Visit Ancestral Goa to experience Goan rural life from the past century. It houses the Big Foot Museum as well as a mammoth sculpture of Mirabai.
7. Butterfly Beach
North of Patnem and Palolem Beach lies the beautiful and uninhabited Butterfly Beach, which is only accessible by boat. It is a great dolphin-spotting place. Carry food and drink as there are no eateries here.
Exotic Butterfly
8. Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
This scenic sanctuary makes for a pleasant day-trip from Palolem. It is best visited between October and March.
9. Japanese Garden
Marmugao Port, Vasco da Gama • Open 5am–8pm daily
Soak in the magnificent views of the Zuari River and the Arabian Sea, while admiring the ruins of the Fortaleza Santa Catarina from this well-kept garden.
10. Braganza House
The biggest Portuguese mansion of its kind, this 17th-century house is a unique example of Portuguese architecture.
Places to Shop
1. Prakash Chitari
2499, Demani Wada, Cuncolim • 0982 298 6793 • Open 8:30am–noon, 2–6pm daily
Ask for directions from Cuncolim market to reach this workshop, known for its ornately painted and lacquered wooden carvings. Though the stock is limited, you may find advolis (cutting boards) or a puja (prayer) table or stool.
2. Margao Municipal Market
Open 9am–2pm & 4–8pm daily
The shops here sell a variety of items as well as Goan spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, trifala or teflam (Sichuan spices) and dagadful (black stone flower).
3. Tuk Tuk
1st floor, Pereira Plaza, Margao • 0904 901 7182 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat
With two stores, one in Margao and the other in Benaulim, Tuk Tuk is popular for souvenirs. Shop for quirky items such as handcrafted baskets, jewellery, clothes and trinkets here.
4. Zanskar Arts
Bogmalo Beach Rd • 0832 253 8253 • Open 9am–10pm daily
Find items ranging from pashminas and jewellery to gifts and trinkets here. You can also buy traditional souvenirs at this one-stop shop.
5. La Mangrove Boutique
Associated with a luxury resort of the same name, this bohemian-themed store offers beach- and lounge-wear.
6. Colva Beach Market
Attracting an international crowd, the Colva Beach Market offers a distinct and colourful shopping experience. Here you can shop for local items at negotiable prices.
7. Chim
Palolem Beach Rd, Canacona • 0832 264 3144 • Open 9am–10pm daily
Set on the beach, this store has objects ranging from designer clothing to local craft items.
Designer clothing at Chim
8. Jaali Boutique
Patnem Rd, Palolem, • 0800 771 2248 • Open 9am–6pm Tue, Wed & Sun (until 10pm Thu–Sat)
Located in a shady tropical garden, this store sells typical Rajasthani jewellery as well as several vintage one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
9. Augustin Studio and Gallery
Opposite the church, Agonda Beach • 0706 629 3608
Those interested in art must visit this gallery for its art collection. The displayed artworks can be purchased at reasonable prices.
10. Miss Monkey
124 Parvem, Agonda • 0916 824 8340 • Open 11am–1pm & 5–9pm daily
This high-end clothing store offers some unique designs sporting a bohemian style. The clothes are made with natural fibres.
Nightlife
1. Sundowner
Hira Smruti, Sawant Wade, Palolem • 0788 756 7384
This open-air bar is a great spot to enjoy a drink and the sweeping bay views. There’s a good range of cocktails and small bites.
Well-lit bar at Sundowner
2. Edge
48/10 Alila Diwa Goa Village, Majorda • 0832 274 6800 • Open 9am–7pm daily
Setting the pace of the city’s nightlife, Edge offers a unique experience. A pool bar by day, it transforms into a hip lounge in the evening. Try the amazing cocktails.
3. Lorry Back Bar
Costa Vaddo, Majorda • 0832 322 1119 • www.vivendagoa.com
Located in a restored Portuguese house, this bar is actually a converted lorry. The painted back of the truck forms the bar’s shutter. It is an ideal place to enjoy a drink.
4. Adega Camoens
Taj Exotica, Calwaddo • 0832 668 3333
Elegant black-and-white photos of Hollywood film celebrities adorn the line panels at this nightspot. The music enhances its old-world charm, making it perfect for a romantic evening over cocktails and cognac.
5. Leopard Valley
Agonda Rd, Palolem • Open 10am–6pm Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9pm–3am Tue & Fri • Closed mid-May–Oct
This high-octane nightclub is set in a jungle quarry. It features a 7-m (23-ft) high DJ stage.
6. Red Ginger
Florida Garden, Colva Rd, Margao • 0888 847 6666 • Open 11am–11:30pm Mon & Thu–Sat (from noon Tue, Wed & Sun)
The stunning bar, great ambience and fabulous music makes this a great nightspot.
7. Neptune’s Point
Palolem Beach • 0915 843 2629
With a dreamy beach location, Neptune’s Point is the place to groove to techno and trance beats.
8. Silent Noise
Palolem • 0928 479 1484 • Open 7pm–2am Mon–Wed, Fri & Sun, 7pm–midnight Thu & Sat, midnight–2pm Fri & Sun • www.silentnoise.in
Revellers are provided with wireless headsets here (see Silent Noise) that allow them to switch between each of the three DJs playing.
9. Club Margarita
Colva Beach Rd • 0976 701 6858 • Open 8pm–2am daily
A popular hangout near Colva Beach, this welcoming place offers good entertainment.
10. Cleopatra’s
Palolem, Canacona • 0983 4992 259 • Open 9am–11:30pm daily
If you’re out late, this quiet restaurant-bar is a perfect spot to dine. The prices tend to go up if you wish to dine later.
Places To Eat
1. Ourem 88
South end of Palolem Beach, behind Rococo Pelton • 0869 882 7679 • Closed L • ₹₹₹
This quaint restaurant has cosy interiors. Enjoy the music as you dig into the delicious food.
2. Leda
Colva Beach Rd • 0832 278 1458 • ₹₹₹
Savour the sizzlers and salmon as well as the Indian tandoori dishes that are offered here.
3. Mickey’s
Near Bollywood Resort, Colva Beach • 0832 278 9125 • ₹₹₹
Enjoy live music in the evenings here. Try their signature cheese and sausage naan (bread).
4. Anantashram
Father Jose Vaz Rd, Vasco da Gama • 0774 481 8888 • Closed Sun • ₹₹₹
Relish the traditional flavours at this local eatery. The Goan thali is delicious.
Striking interior of Anantashram
5. Sheela Bar and Restaurant
NH 17A, Vidhyanagar Colony, Vasco da Gama • 0832 255 5675 • Closed Mon • ₹₹₹
Off-beat yet in an accessible location, Sheela Bar includes Goan favourites such as fish and prawn curries.
6. Joet’s Bar and Restaurant
Bogmalo Beach, Vasco da Gama • 0832 278 9125 • ₹₹₹
This perfectly located beach shack has the best view of Bogmalo Beach. There is live music every Friday.
7. Robin’s Ark
Luisa By the Sea Complex, Mobor Beach • 0884 777 8388 • ₹₹₹
A multi-cuisine restaurant with a wonderful location and an appetizing menu. Try their beef chilly, prawn curry and fish fry.
8. FishKa
Opposite Hotel Alila Diwa Goa, Betalbatim • 0963 737 9228 • ₹₹
Conveniently located, this is a popular spot for drinks and seafood. The menu here is reasonably priced.
9. Longhuino’s
Ground floor, Dr Antonio Dias Building, Margao • 0832 273 9908 • ₹₹₹
Set in the heart of Margao, this place has maintained its vintage charm. The sausage and fish thali are favourites.
10. Pentagon
Majorda Beach Rd • 0832 288 1402 • ₹₹₹
With a rustic charm, this restaurant offers sunset views. There is live entertainment in the evenings. Try their tandoori dishes.