1. Riva degli Schiavoni

Thronging with tour groups and packed with souvenir stalls, this quayside affords a lovely promenade past majestic palaces (now mostly hotels) and a much photographed 1887 monument to the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele. It is linked to Piazza San Marco by the elegant Istrian stone bridge Ponte della Paglia, named after the paglia (straw) once unloaded from barges here. This is also the best place for taking pictures of the Bridge of Sighs. At the eastern end is the Ca’ di Dio (“house of God”), a 13th- century hospice for pilgrims en route to the Holy Land.

Riva degli Schiavoni

2. Hotel Danieli

This enchanting 15th-century palace with a pink Gothic façade is set on the magnificent waterfront near Piazza San Marco. After a string of aristocratic proprietors, it was taken over in 1822 by Joseph da Niel, who turned it into a hotel with an illustrious guest list, including Dickens, Wagner and Ruskin. In the 1940s an annexe was added amid great controversy – since 1102 no dwelling over one floor had been allowed on the site. The redeeming feature of the 1940s wing is the roof restaurant (see Hotel Danieli).

Eye-catching front of Hotel Danieli

3. Santa Maria della Pietà

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 3700 • Open 10am–6pm Tue– Sun • Adm • www.pietavenezia.org

Inextricably linked with the composer and musician Antonio Vivaldi, this Classical-fronted church designed by Giorgio Massari belonged to the adjoining home for foundlings where he taught. It is best seen by attending an evening concert to appreciate Tiepolo’s uplifting ceiling fresco, exalting music and the young choristers, identifiable by the sprigs of pomegranate blossom they wear. The choir stalls accommodated both the singers and the nobility, who were not expected to mix with the commoners.

Santa Maria della Pietà

4. Arsenale

Castello

Aptly named after the Arab word darsina’a (“house of industry”), Venice’s formidable Arsenale shipyards at their peak employed an army of 16,000 to produce the fleets that sailed the Mediterranean, spreading and protecting the influence of the Republic through trade deals and naval superiority. With its innovative assembly-line system, the Arsenale could construct a galley in a few hours, notably in 1574 while the French king Henry III enjoyed a banquet. The stone lions that guard the entrance hail from Greek islands looted by Venetian commanders.

Crenellated entrance to Arsenale

5. San Pietro di Castello

Chiesa di San Pietro di Castello • Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon, 10:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat • Adm • www.chorusvenezia.org

It is hard to imagine that Venice’s religious headquarters were here until 1807, when the Basilica di San Marco became the city’s cathedral. Linked to the rest of Castello by two broad bridges, San Pietro attracts artists for its evocative, forlorn air, and fun-lovers for the late-June neighbour- hood fair. Art lovers come for the church with work by Veronese and Coducci.

6. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Dominated by the brick façade of the Gothic church SS Giovanni e Paolo, this breezy square welcomes visitors with a flotilla of outdoor cafés. Worthy of contemplation is one of the world’s most magnificent equestrian statues, a stylized 15th-century portrait of the great condottiere Bartolomeo Colleoni. He left a legacy to the city on the condition that his statue be erected in front of San Marco, craftily “interpreted” by the governors as the nearby Scuola Grande di San Marco. Gracefully decorated with arches and trompe l’oeil panels by Lombard masters, the former confraternity serves as the public hospital.

Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo

7. Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa • Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.chorusvenezia.org

A lovely rounded church on this sun-blessed square appears to spread in all directions, the result of a 7th-century bishop’s vision of the formosa (“shapely”) Virgin Mary’s request that it be built where “a white cloud came to rest”. Artworks are by Vivarini and Palma il Vecchio. The square is a good place for a picnic or a game of football, in lieu of the bullfights and re-enactments of Venice’s conquests held here in the olden days.

8. Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna

Campo S Francesco della Vigna, Castello 2786 • 041 520 61 02 • Open 8am–12:30pm, 3–7pm Mon–Sat, 3–6:30pm Sun

In the back alleys of Castello, this Franciscan church sports a combination of architectural styles courtesy of both Sansovino and Palladio, who designed the façade. The colonnaded cloister can be seen while you’re admiring Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna and Child (1507). Another highlight is Veronese’s Virgin and Child with Saints (1551). Playgrounds have replaced the 13th-century vigna (vineyard).

9. Via Garibaldi and Giardini

A pleasant avenue lined with cafés and a market, Via Garibaldi was named when the eponymous general marched into Venice in 1866 as part of his campaign for Unification. Take a stroll to the Giardini (public gardens). To make way for the park in 1807, architect Selva demolished four churches and convents and a sailors’ hospice.

Via Garibaldi

10. Ospedaletto

Barbaria delle Tole, Castello 6691 • Open for pre-booked guided tours only (email: [email protected]) • Adm

The sculptures on the façade of this almshouse church, built in 1575, were added by Longhena in 1674. Pass through the church to the Sala della Musica, where female wards of the orphanage once gave concerts.

1. Le Ceramiche

Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3876

Alessandro Merlin crafts original plates, cups and tiles with black and white designs based on lagoon fish or human figures in this tiny atelier close to the Arsenale.

2. VizioVirtù Cioccolateria

Calle Forneri, Castello 5988

This artisan chocolate factory creates mouthwatering chocolates from traditional Venetian recipes. Special-ities include spiced hot chocolate and pralines. Book a guided tasting tour at [email protected].

3. Papier Mâché

Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5174

One of the few authentic mask shops in town also sells beautiful ceramics.

Venetian mask

4. Il Papiro

Calle delle Bande, Castello 5275

You can find tempting gifts in the shape of marbled paper-covered boxes, greetings cards and writing paper with artistic letterheads here.

5. Bragorà

Salita Sant’Antonin, Castello 3496

This shop has an eclectic mix of design, art and creative objects, many of them sourced from local designers.

Stylish Bragorà

6. Libreria Acqua Alta

Calle Longa S Maria Formosa, Castello 5176

With ancient volumes piled high and Venetian-specific literature, this is a fascinating bookshop with a gondola full of books inside.

Books stacked at Libreria Acqua Alta

7. Muranero

Salizzada del Pignater, Castello 3545

Senegalese artist Niang Moulaye creates beautiful handmade jewellery, combining ethnic African style with Murano glass bead-making techniques.

8. Ratti

Salizzada S Lio, Castello 5825

This eclectic shop sells household items such as the quintessential Italian coffee pot, along with mobile phones and hardware.

9. Corte delle Fate

Salizzada S Lio, Castello 5690

Ultra-modern footwear and quirky accessories are available here in the shape of bags, jewellery and garments for the young.

10. Giovanna Zanella

Calle Carminati, Castello 5641

A must for all serious shoppers, this store offers quirky handmade shoes in a fabulous range of incredible designs.