Chapter 2

Your Business Wardrobe

Before you speak a word, your clothes have already spoken volumes. The first impression is made in only a few seconds and may follow you indefinitely. You present your professional polish, competence, and knowledge in a few brief seconds, then fill in the gaps with words. The professional presence you bring to the business world has tremendous, although unspoken, impact on the business transaction.

Be attentive of your total being. Your presence is being observed when you enter the office, go for an interview, enter the boardroom, participate in a videoconference, make a presentation, are working a room, or are socializing with colleagues. Assumptions about your business ability are made on the spot, sometimes based solely upon your appearance and manners, and your product or services may be negatively affected if the client forms unfavorable impressions of you before you even have an opportunity to speak.

Your wardrobe, personal grooming, and body language all serve to create your “personal professional package.” That is, all aspects of who you are—what you wear, how you move, how you look—all work together for your benefit or to your detriment. Each aspect affects how a client or potential client perceives your ability to conduct business professionally.

Today’s society is transient and fast paced. We are programmed for quick sound bytes and visual bytes. Your personal message is delivered in five seconds. Clothing sends one such message. It is a message of status, personality, character, refinement, discernment, and success. You are the message of your business and how you dress, walk, speak, write, and interact with people may be all a person sees of your business or company, service or product. You have a responsibility to send the best professional message you can to be successful.

Plan your business wardrobe now. Begin by always having two great outfits or suits ready to wear. Keep all the components—suit, shirt/blouse, socks/stockings, shoes, and accessories—cleaned and ready to go at a moment’s notice. I call these the no-brainer outfits. They are smart, sharp, fashionable, conservative, and are tailored to fit you well. Of course, you should be wearing them rather than “saving” them for the right occasion, but be mindful that when you hang them in the closet they must again be ready to go on a moment’s notice.

 

Hints for “No-Brainer” Dressing

Purchase complete outfits that work together.

Purchase all the components for an outfit at the same time, including accessories and hosiery.

Coordinate pieces that can be mixed together for different looks.

Select the outfit and hang it outside the closet the evening before.

Take time periodically to examine and repair your garments.

Make regular trips to the cleaners.

Although you may not think of yourself as one, you are always a salesperson. You are selling your expertise and business acumen. The way you dress shows respect for yourself, your profession, your associates, your company, and the products or services you offer. Your appearance is your “visual résumé.”

In business, as in our personal lives, we are required to dress differently for various occasions. Think of the world as a stage where your part in the play can make or break the play’s success. You plan your costume and rehearse your actions to make your whole presence successful. So think of yourself as an actor—plan your wardrobe, practice your body language, choose your words with care, and the lasting impression you leave will be positive.

THE BUSINESS WARDROBE

Demographics and your particular field of business define the appropriateness of what you wear to work everyday as well as what you wear for business events. It is always safe to dress conservatively. Geography, climate, and season help determine fabric colors and weights. Dress with a touch of individual flair whenever possible; wear current fashion and color. Being trendy is not important, but being current with accessories, especially shoes, color, and fashion accents indicates that you are aware of what is fashionable. Your necktie width, design, and the type of knot indicate that you are current. The way you wear your tie makes a fashion statement and that statement may be perceived as the way you look at business. Are you up-to-date with what is happening in the world and in your industry? Being current implies that you are up-to-date in your business knowledge as well.

Careful consideration should be given to wardrobe planning. When selecting and purchasing clothing, think about where and when you might wear it, how often, and whether you have other garments that coordinate with it. Check that the colors match or coordinate with other garments (socks, shoes, jacket, and trouser/skirt). You want to be perceived as competent and professional by your client and colleagues—will the garment contribute to that perception or undermine it? Women need to be especially wary of garments that may reveal too much body, especially low necklines, bare midriff tops, shorter skirt lengths, and sleeveless blouses. Choose blouses with long or to the elbow sleeves and select skirts of knee length or just below. Men need to avoid showing too much body as well; wearing too many shirt buttons open may reveal more than is appropriate in a business setting.

Men’s clothing selections are also important. A man’s necktie should reach just to the waistline. If your tie ends in the middle of your chest, it’s too short. Big and tall men may purchase ties made especially for them in longer than average lengths. Large patterned print shirts may not look well on slim or smaller men. Check your appearance in the mirror. Men’s socks should match the color of their slacks or shoes for business dress. White or bright socks break the linear look of the leg and are distracting. Purchase socks that extend above the pant cuff when you are seated.

Choose accessories with care; jewelry, scarves, and neckties need to be selected to complement the individual and the wardrobe. Accessories that are too bold or swing too much, such as bright neckties or long pendant-style necklaces, can be distracting to others. Noisy bracelets with charms or dangles that hit work surfaces can be dangerous as well as annoying to coworkers. Offices use a wide variety of equipment in the course of business; beware of catching jewelry, scarves, long hair, or neckties in office equipment.

To build a business wardrobe try this formula: 4 + 4 + 4 = 40. This formula is not a purely mathematical one, but represents how these pieces work together to create more than forty complete outfits. Forty outfits equate to a different outfit every working day for two months. Women have more options by using both slacks and skirts. Four tops, four bottoms, and four shirts or blouses will combine to give you forty days or more (eight 5-day weeks or 2 months) of workday attire. It works! By keeping your wardrobe simple, you have fewer decisions to make when you’re selecting what to wear for the day and you always know that you will look appropriate (see Figure 2.1).

Dressing well takes careful planning and thoughtful color choices. It is becoming easier, however, to buy coordinated pieces that conform to the 4 + 4 + 4 = 40 formula because manufacturers are producing, and stores are displaying, mix and match coordinated clothing pieces for both men and women. The formula works by combining three compatible solid colors and one print that goes well with the solids. Select a top and bottom as a suit. For women a three-piece suit (skirt, slacks, and jacket) will work for one “unit.” Add another suit of another color and a top and bottom of a print or texture that work with the other solid colors. Men need to select one or two suits, a jacket or two, and two slacks of different colors and fabrics (see Figure 2.2). All the colors must work well together. Shirts should be of various colors and patterns to coordinate with all the tops and bottoms. Neckties should also coordinate with several combinations. Select new ties periodically if you wear a tie everyday. Select conservative and fun ties to fit the various occasions of your business life.

Figure 2.1
Wardrobe illustration for women.

Figure 2.2
Wardrobe illustration for men.

Choose neutral colors (navy, black, brown, beige, burgundy, or gray) for the basic pieces, which are the tops and bottoms. Add more color for the shirt or blouse pieces; use your individuality for the shirts, and pizzazz for the accessories. Your unique style and expression of your interests sets you apart from others. You may like a particular color and wear accessories of that color. Perhaps you are a weekend cyclist or golfer and choose bicycle or golf themes for lapel pins, neckties, or print fabrics. Some men wear only bow ties as their signature. Some women wear hats. Maybe you like flowers; wear one on your lapel every day! Tops can be various styles of jackets (for women, a cardigan sweater). You will be pleased when you practice this art of dressing. Your closet will seem neater and less crammed, and your mind will be less distracted by thoughts of what to wear.

Even in a working environment that accepts casual as the regular dress code, there may be subtle differences in dress from one department to another. When Matthew was interviewing at a high-tech corporation, he noticed that the research and development department personnel wore jeans and tee shirts; while the people from the production department wore collared shirts tucked into their jeans and belts. Be aware of the dress where you work and adjust your wardrobe appropriately.

If you are starting a new job or have moved to a new area of the country, observe how others dress for work, especially those working in your industry or type of work. You may also get some ideas by reading the local paper. If you are unsure of what kind of clothing is appropriate, ask your supervisor.

CASUAL DAY

What to wear for Casual Day is becoming more of a dilemma than was originally expected. Casual Day is a term signifying that casual dress will be allowed on a specified day. Some companies have a Casual Day every Friday, some have their Casual Day on the last Friday of the month, some have a floating Casual Day that is announced monthly. The idea behind Casual Day was to remove some of the pressure of always having to look businesslike and formal at work. The intention was to raise morale and increase productivity by easing the dress standards on select days. The idea of eliminating the “business look” for everyday has become popular with some companies while other companies have rejected the Casual Day idea altogether.

Casual lifestyles demanded casual work wear. The day began as a trial on Fridays, when many were starting to think about the weekend and no work. Some corporations made Wednesday their Casual Day. Some companies made it every day. Many workers felt that because they were not seeing customers, were behind a desk or telephone, or were at the computer doing their business, there was no need to dress up for work. The concept was great, but in practice it needed guidelines. Businesses today are continuing to grapple with the task of defining dress code guidelines. Of course, the clothing industry liked the concept because it created a new line of clothing—Casual Day business clothes. Casual business clothes include cotton slacks and skirts, sweaters, casual shoes, and relaxed design lines. Some workers find it just as difficult to decide what to wear to work on Casual Day as on other days. Some forgot the day was casual and went to work dressed in their regular business attire.

Management found that their employee’s interpretation of casual varied dramatically. Clothing ranged from beachwear and spectator sportswear to casual dress up. Prior to Casual Day, workers knew the corporate dress code and dressed accordingly. Casual has created a new set of rules.

Corporations have even hired consultants to help workers determine and define the meaning of business casual. Newspaper ads and magazine articles have attempted to clarify the business casual dress code. Some clothing manufacturers have even marketed their specific line of clothing as the definition of “casual” business wear.

 

Business Casual Do’s and Don’ts

Do wear hose or socks.

Do wear collared shirts.

Do wear belts in pant loops.

Don’t wear denim or shorts.

Don’t wear sleeveless blouses or shirts.

Don’t wear barefeet sandals; open-toed shoes may be worn with hose.

Don’t wear sheer fabrics.

Don’t wear open, unbuttoned shirts or low necklines.

Don’t wear midriff-baring clothing.

Don’t wear exercise clothing.

Those who dress casually are often less productive than their colleagues who are dressed more professionally. Those who dress for business work better and are well received by colleagues and clients. Many individuals are now choosing traditional business attire, a tie and jacket, instead of such casual dress as denim, shorts, or sandals, for work.

Think “business professional” when you dress. Client expectations for professional services are ever increasing. Your client’s perception of your expertise comes in part from your appearance.

Dress appropriately for your profession to increase your credibility. A heavy equipment salesman may not need to wear a suit and tie to visit his contractor client. He will need to wear slacks with a belt and a collared shirt, tucked in. He may choose clean work boots over dress shoes for sales calls in the field.

Casual Day is becoming less popular. Perhaps it’s time for your company to reconsider its policies regarding casual dress. As Casual Day becomes attached to holidays and community events any occasion becomes an excuse to dress casually. The critical consideration is whether casual dress reflects the image you want your clients to see. What do you think of your bank when you see your bank manager at the office in jeans and a tee shirt?

Businesses need to seriously look at their corporate image and consider how their clients perceive their professionalism in terms of appearance. Business relationships are based on trust, confidence, and personal attention. The client’s good opinion and impression of you is vital to your company’s success and to your own. Are you meeting their expectations?

If your business is considering implementing a Casual Day or wanting to amend the dress code, develop written guidelines and distribute it to employees.

 

Casual Day Guidelines

Clothing should be appropriate for the business service or product.

Consideration for the employee’s movement and actions during the workday (lifting, moving boxes, bending, sitting).

Clothing that is clean, pressed, and free of stains, tears, and patches.

No workout clothes, beach wear, or sports clothing.

If clients will be in the office, consider more standard business dress.

Newscasters seem to have a unique approach to dressing for work. Since most people see them only from the waist up, they pay special attention to how they look from the waist up! If you see most of your clients from a desk, as a receptionist might, look sharp from the waist up. I am not suggesting that you go as far as the television celebrities who wear jeans and sandals from the waist down, but do look carefully at yourself from the waist up.

SPECIAL BUSINESS OCCASIONS

The invitation to an event generally indicates the appropriate dress for the occasion. Whether the event is a cocktail party or a barbecue, held at home, in a restaurant, or at a country club, guests are expected to wear appropriate attire. Often the indication for suggested attire is printed at the lower right of the invitation. If you are unsure of the type of event, when you respond to the invitation you may ask if the event is informal or formal. The host will happily answer your questions. After all, he wants you, as the guest, to attend and be comfortable. If he is vague and answers too casually for your liking, ask some specifics about the location, size of the event, and suggestions for attire.

Check your invitation to be certain whether you alone were invited or if your spouse or significant other was included. The host should be sensitive and informed about each guest and their living arrangement, especially if the invitation is for an intimate gathering. If your name is the only one on the invitation, you must determine whether you want to attend alone. An intimate dinner party, for eight to twenty guests, may not allow room for your personal companion. If it is a cocktail party or an informal company party, there may be room for more guests. Always assess the type of occasion and ask the host when you respond to the invitation. There are times when the host has overlooked the detail of including “others” on the invitation. The host should never assume the person would enjoy attending alone just because they are not married. If, as the invited guest, you are unclear about whether you must attend on your own, call the host to acknowledge the invitation and gently ask about the possibility of your companion attending.

Couples should coordinate their clothing so that they do not appear as the odd couple. One should not be wearing sparkles while the other is in Casual Friday attire. Your professional image is always important even when the occasion is a nonbusiness function. When a couple’s clothing is not coordinated, they give the impression that they have not communicated. This does not mean that colors and style must match from the same style page; it does mean that you both should be in the same chapter. If she is wearing a cocktail dress, he should be wearing a jacket and slacks, not jeans and a tee shirt. Likewise, if he is wearing a suit and tie, she should be wearing something dressy rather than stretchy pants with a sweater.

The Company Party

Company parties are events hosted by the business for clients and customers. Spouses may be included, but usually children are not. Company employees are the hosts and should attend. The host is responsible to see that the guests have food, are introduced to other guests, and are enjoying themselves. This is the time to get to know your clients in a social setting. Generally, business deals are not made, but business subjects may be mentioned. This is the time to learn about your client’s interests outside business. Company parties may be held in the office as an open house or as a catered event at a restaurant or hotel. Wear the same clothing you would normally wear for work or dress it up a little.

The Office Party

Office parties are those social events held outside regular office hours in which employees and sometimes their spouses and families participate. These may be catered holiday parties, annual parties, or company picnics. Office parties are frequently held at the office, at a local restaurant, park, or at a company official’s home. The party may be in the same city or miles away. These events provide a relaxed environment for mingling among coworkers and family members. Many times, there are attendees you’ve never seen before. Several offices may be combined for the event.

A company I’ve worked with holds its annual picnic at the boss’s house a hundred miles from some of the branch offices. Although there is no obligation to go, there is an implied need to attend to meet the boss, upper management, and employees from other offices. An office party at the boss’s home gives you the opportunity to see how the boss lives and to assess whether his personal values, as evidenced in his lifestyle, match corporate policy and values. Extravagant personal living and bare-bones corporate operations are in contrast. You might wonder if corporate profits benefit only the CEO to the possible detriment of the future of the company and its employees.

Generally, there is no spoken obligation to attend an office party, but it does provide you with an opportunity for friendly, relaxed conversation with coworkers and with important people in your company. If you cannot attend, it is important that you respond to the host with your regrets. You need not explain why you cannot attend.

The clothing you wore to the company’s summer barbecue is not appropriate for the five-course meal, of course. Your outdoors casual jeans and shirt need to be replaced with slacks and shirt or dress and skirt for the company party or dinner party. Gentlemen would need a necktie when attending a more formal party. You may ask the host about suggested attire when you accept the invitation.

 

Women

Don’t wear something that is too tight. Tight clothing can be perceived as flirtatious and unprofessional.

Don’t wear low necklines. Keep your professional image professional, even at an office party.

Don’t wear fur and diamonds if you think you are in line for a raise. Fur is politically incorrect in some geographic areas of the United States; if you want to wear fur, you may want to check this detail out before hand.

Do dress up your business attire with a beaded sweater or festive vest.

Do swap your business pumps for evening shoes.

Do freshen up and reapply makeup. Add a bit more sparkle than you normally wear during the workday.

Do change everyday accessories to ones with pizzazz; make them larger, bolder, and more colorful.

Do add a sparkly hair ornament.

Do consider shiny fabric for the blouse.

 

Men

Do wear the appropriate shirt for the occasion. White shirts are more formal than colored shirts. Pale colored shirts are more formal than bold or bright colors. Solid colors are more formal than patterned.

Do wear an interesting and colorful necktie.

Do add a complementary pocket-handkerchief.

Do add interesting cufflinks.

Do add a festive vest.

Office parties are an extension of work, but with a different tone. Always be aware that your credibility and professionalism are visible. Even when the conversation is not about business you are perceived as the business person you are in the office. Have a fun time, but avoid letting your hair down too far.

Many people who may influence your career advancement and future success see and hear you without you even being aware of them. They all form an opinion of you, based upon your behavior and your words. If you talk too loudly, laugh too harshly, tell off-color, politically incorrect, or racial jokes, or say disparaging things about coworkers or management, you run the risk of damaging your career.

Jim:	What do you think about including Bob? He was at the office party last summer.
Chuck:	Bob? You don’t mean the loudmouth that kept complaining about how hard he had to work on the Hillsdale Project? I sure don’t want him on my development team.

The “Bob” in the above conversation will never know why he was not considered for this new development team. He thought he did a fine job on the Hillsdale project and other projects as well. It’s too bad he talked a little too loud and complained a little too much about his work at an office party where the vice president of research and development was also a guest. Always consider the impact your words and actions may have on your career, even in what may seem like a relaxed party situation. Practice your best manners and exercise proper etiquette at every opportunity.

 

What to Avoid at Business-Related Social Events

Drinking more than one alcoholic drink.
    To prevent being perceived as “holier than thou” by declining a drink if your guest orders one, ask for mineral water with a twist of lemon or lime. It will come from the bar and it will look like an alcoholic drink without being one. Juice, ice tea, or “virgin” (no alcohol) drinks also work for this purpose and help put your drinking guest at ease. You can also make arrangements with the cocktail server or bartender in advance to serve your drinks “virgin.” (Be sure to tip!)

Being loud.

Being flirtatious.

Telling offensive jokes.

Revealing confidential information about the company or employees.
    This can be difficult in settings in which the only thing you may have in common with the other person is that you both work for the same company. Be cautious about discussing company or personnel issues.

Casual Wardrobe

Your casual wardrobe will include your weekend wear, after-hours clothing, and Casual Day attire in fabrics of cotton and cotton blends, knits, polyester, linen, and rayon. Casual garments are less structured in design than business clothing, generally unlined, and loose fitting.

 

Men

Slacks of cotton and cotton blends worn with a belt

Collared shirt, turtleneck, knit polo shirts with collars

Socks, either white athletic or colored

Slip-on shoes, canvas shoes, or athletic shoes

Zippered jacket and/or sweater

 

Women

Skirt of soft fabric, synthetic, or natural fibers

Relaxed-fit slacks worn with a belt

Blouse with sleeves

Sweater

Socks appropriate for the shoes

Flat shoes

Semiformal Wardrobe

Semiformal events call for attire that is dressier than business but not as formal as a tuxedo. Holiday parties, dinner parties, dinners at hotels and restaurants, catered events, theater, and musicals are all events that may require semiformal clothing. When you are the hostess, you set the tone of the evening. However, if you know that your out-of-town guests do not have semiformal clothing with them, dress down so as not to embarrass them by being more formally dressed than they. Semiformal or informal dress calls for dressy, shiny fabrics with some sparkle.

 

Men

Dark suit

White shirt

Dark stripe or dark patterned tie

Dark socks and shoes

 

Women

Pantsuit of shiny, light and flowing, or lacy fabrics

Short dress of evening fabric: sparkly, shiny, light and flowing, or lacy

Mid-calf, ankle-length skirt and top or dress. No floor length hem lines

Dark hose and shoes; flat shoes or pumps of suitable height for women

If the dress has small or no straps, a woman should wear a shoulder wrap, at least during dinner or whenever she is sitting down. From across the dining table, often all that one can see is bare shoulders; this may not be the impression you wish to leave. Be mindful of where most of your evening will be spent, at a dining table, sitting at a concert, or standing at a reception. Use this information to plan what you will wear.

Black Tie

Black tie events include opera, symphony, and theater opening nights. Balls, dinner events, evening fund-raisers, and weddings that begin after 6:00 in the evening may also be black tie occasions. Seasonal variations in dress include color, length of the sleeve, and fabrics. If you attend a dinner party, be cautious of wearing a strapless dress as you may appear to be wearing very little when you are seated at dinner! Black tie dress codes may also vary by geography; check with your host.

 

Women

Long cocktail dress or evening gown in muted colors, beading, lace, and/or chiffon

Sheer hose

Fabric shoes may have ornamentation or have a metallic, sparkly finish

Small handbag

Evening wrap

 

Men

Tuxedo (in some regions, a white dinner jacket in summer)

Tuxedo shirt, cummerbund, bow tie, cuff links and studs

Or a dark suit, white shirt, dark tie, cuff links, and studs (acceptable for some situations)

Black shoes and socks

Colorful neckties, cummerbunds and vests are fun, but not always appropriate for business functions. Evaluate the situation. Will there be foreign business guests? Are you the host, the master of ceremonies, or giving a toast? Remember that your business reputation is always on view.

White Tie

White tie is the most formal dress affair. Clothing can be rented for these events for both genders. White tie is worn by the bridal party for formal weddings after 6:00 in the evening, for inaugural balls, debutante balls, and fund-raiser galas.

 

Men

Tailcoat, called “tails,” a formal coat with “tails”

White bow tie

White tuxedo/wing shirt

White cummerbund or vest

Gloves optional, in white or gray, depending on jacket color

Black shoes and socks

 

Women

Long evening dress (business-appropriate evening dresses are not low-cut, body clinging, or high-slit dresses)

Sheer hose

Fabric shoes

Gloves are optional but appropriate; long white gloves are often worn with a sleeveless dress. (Gloves are considered an accessory to a woman’s wardrobe.)

Evening wrap

Small handbag, handheld, no shoulder strap

For white tie events, women wear a floor length dress or flowing chiffon pants. The hem length is longer than for black tie events. This is the event where you can really dress up with glamorous jewelry, fancy hairstyles and ornaments, special shoe ornaments, and furs (if appropriate).

Gloves, Overcoats, and Hats

Some wardrobe items, specifically gloves, overcoats, and hats, need special mention in regards to proper etiquette. These items are more or less fashionable from time to time and region to region. As a result, appropriate wear and etiquette may be a mystery to many.

 

Glove Etiquette

 

Women

Gloves are removed when eating. Gloved hands do not hold food or the utensils for eating.

Gloves may remain on for handshaking.

Long gloves should have a buttoned opening at the wrist. Remove only below the wrist, fold the hand portion of the glove and tuck it into the wrist opening. This will leave a small bulge at the back of the wrist.

Glove length, whether short or long, is determined by the length of the sleeve of the gown. If the gown is sleeveless or short sleeved, long gloves are appropriate, if long sleeved, the gloves should be short. Gloves can be wrist, forearm, elbow, or mid-upper arm lengths. Choose the appropriate length in proportion to your dress.

A bracelet may be worn on the outside of long gloves, but never a ring.

Gloves may be worn at any time of the year.

Gloves may be removed after your entrance and placed in a handbag.

 

Men

Men generally wear gloves for hand protection in cold weather or on white tie occasions.

Gloves are removed when taking off the overcoat and are then tucked away in a coat pocket.

Gloves are removed for eating and drinking.

 

Overcoat Etiquette

Overcoats are removed when one enters a building or office.

Overcoats may be carried over the left arm.

Overcoats are checked at hotels, theaters, and most restaurants.

The coat checker is tipped if he sits in a booth or cabin.

The choice of overcoat should be appropriate to the clothing. A stadium coat is not appropriate over formal attire.

 

Hat Etiquette

Men should remove their hats when entering a building. They do not wear hats while they are indoors or while eating. Women wear hats as a wardrobe accessory. Unlike a man’s hat, a woman’s hat remains on her head at all times. Her outdoor or wet hat is removed indoors. A woman also removes her hat if it obstructs the vision of another person seated behind her.