EIXAMPLE
If the old town is the heart of Barcelona and green Tibidabo and Montjuïc its lungs, the Eixample is its nervous system – its economic and commercial core. The area took shape in 1860, when the city was allowed to expand beyond the medieval walls. Based on plans by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerdà, the Eixample is laid out on a grid. Construction continued into the 20th century at a time when the elite was patronizing the most daring architects. Modernisme was flourishing and the area became home to the best of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture, with its elegant façades and balconies. Today, enchanting cafés, funky design shops, gourmet restaurants and hip bars draw the professional crowd, which has adopted the neighbourhood as its own.
1. Sagrada Família
Gaudí’s wizardry culminated in this enchanting, wild, unconventional church (see Sagrada Família), which dominates the city skyline.
2. La Pedrera
A daring, surreal fantasyland, and Gaudí’s most remarkable civic work (see La Pedrera).
Rooftop, La Pedrera
3. Sant Pau Recinte Modernista
C/Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167 • 93 553 78 11 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat (Nov–Mar: to 4:30pm), 10am–2:30pm Sun • Adm; guided tours in English 10:30am daily • www.santpaubarcelona.org
Founded in 1401, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau (see Sant Pau Recinte Modernista) was a fully-functioning hospital until 2009, when all medical activities were moved to a new building and the UNESCO World Heritage Site exquisitely restored and opened to the public as a cultural centre. The Art Nouveau site, created by Domènech i Montaner between 1902 and 1930, is a tribute to Modernisme – and Domènech’s answer to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família. There are eight pavilions, which recall the history of Catalonia using murals, mosaics and sculptures, and other buildings, all linked by underground tunnels. The buildings are interlaced by gardens and courtyards. The site is part of the Ruta del Modernisme (see Trips and Tours).
Sant Pau Recinte Modernista
4. Mansana de la Discòrdia
Pg de Gràcia 35–45
At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square) lies this stunning row of houses. The “block of discord” is so named because of the dramatic contrast between its three flagship buildings. Built between 1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch, the houses were commissioned by competing bourgeois families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó Morera, Puig by the Gothic-inspired Casa Amatller, and Gaudí by the whimsical Casa Batlló. Among them, the Casa Amatller and Casa Batlló can be toured. The houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the splendour of the block. At No. 39 is the Museu del Perfum.
5. Fundació Tàpies
C/Aragó 255 • 93 487 03 15 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Thu & Sat (to 9pm Fri, to 3pm Sun) • Adm (free under 16) • fundaciotapies.org
Paintings and sculptures by Antoni Tàpies (1923–2012), Catalonia’s foremost artist, are housed in this early Modernista building (see Palau de la Música Catalana). For a glimpse of what awaits inside, look up – crowning the museum is the artist’s eye-catching wire sculpture Cloud and Chair (1990). The collection of over 300 pieces covers Tàpies’ whole range of work, including abstract pieces such as Grey Ochre on Brown (1962). Temporary exhibitions are also held here, with past shows by Mario Herz and Hans Hacke.
Cloud and Chair, Fundació Tàpies
6. Els Encants
Av Meridiana 69 • 92 246 30 30 • Open 9am–8pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat • www.encantsbcn.com
For almost a hundred years, the Els Encants market was a rambling, chaotic jumble of street stalls. In 2014 it got a striking new home and now its stalls are arranged in a gentle upward spiral under a mirrored, angled canopy designed to keep off the sun. As well as antiques, bric-a-brac and plain old junk, you’ll find textiles, household goods, records and vintage clothes here.
The Els Encants market space
7. Casa Terrades – “Casa de les Punxes”
Av Diagonal 416 • Guided tours 9am–8pm daily (last entrance by 6pm) • Adm • www.casadelespunxes.com
This Gothic-style castle with four towers was designed by the Modernista architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch and finished in 1905 for the Terrades sisters. It has always housed private homes. From the outside you can admire the forged ironwork on the balconies, the carved reliefs and the colourful stained-glass windows. The ceramic panels mounted on the façade represent the patriotic symbols of Catalonia.
8. Rambla de Catalunya
This elegant extension of the better-known Rambla is a more upmarket version. Lined with trees that form a leafy green tunnel in summer, it boasts scores of pretty façades and shops, including the Modernista Farmàcia Bolos (No. 77). The avenue (see Rambla de Catalunya) teems with terrace bars and cafés.
9. Museu Egipci
C/València 284 • 93 488 01 88 • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat (closed 2–4pm Jan to mid-June & early Sep–Nov); 10am–2pm Sun • Adm • www.museuegipci.com
Spain’s most important Egyptology museum houses more than 350 exhibits from over 3,000 years of Ancient Egyptian history. Exhibits include terracotta figures, human and animal mummies, and a bust of the goddess Sekhmet (700–300 BC).
10. Museu del Disseny de Barcelona
Pl de la Glòries Catalanes 37–38 • 93 256 68 00 • Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • ajuntament.barcelona.cat/museudeldisseny
A monolithic hulk hosts this museum showcasing architecure, fashion, product and graphic design. It also houses two leading independent, non-profit associations promoting design and architecture, the Foment de les Arts i del Disseny (FAD) and Barcelona Centre de Disseny (BCD).
Disseny Museum
ILDEFONS CERDÀ
Ildefons Cerdà’s design for the new city, comprising a uniform grid of square blocks, received backing in 1859. Reflecting Cerdà’s utopian socialist ideals, each block was to have a garden-like courtyard surrounded by uniform flats. Real estate vultures soon intervened, though, and the courtyards were converted into warehouses and factories. Today these green spaces are gradually being reinstated.
THE MODERNISTA ROUTE
MORNING
Visit the Museu del Modernisme de Barcelona (C/Balmes 48, www.mmbcn.cat) for an introduction to Catalan Art Nouveau via a series of fascinating temporary exhibitions, then stroll around the gardens of the university. Head east along Gran Via past the elegant El Palace Barcelona Hotel and turn right down C/Bruc and right again onto C/Casp for a glimpse of Gaudí’s Casa Calvet. Walk two blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the Mansana de la Discòrdia and explore Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Amatller or Casa Batlló – or all three if you have the time and energy. Sniff around the Museu del Perfum and Regia perfume shop before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera. Take a lunch break at Windsor. Their set menu is an enjoyable way to experience Catalan haute cuisine.
AFTERNOON
After lunch, return to Pg de Gràcia then turn right along Av Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416. Continue on Diagonal, turning left at Pg Sant Joan to see the exhibition on Modernism in the Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família. Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
Design Shops
1. Pilma
Av Diagonal 403
A stunning shop selling quality modern furniture and interior acces sories by big names, as well as cutting-edge creations by a range of Catalan designers.
A dazzling display at Pilma
2. L’Appartement
C/Enric Granados 44 • Closed Sun
A spacious, white-painted store packed to the rafters with gorgeous furnishings and knick-knacks at reasonable prices – from quirky, cool lights and sculptures to bags, jewellery and T-shirts.
3. Regia
Pg de Gràcia 39
The biggest perfume shop in the city has over 1,000 scents to choose from, including all the lead ing brands, and smaller makers. The space also plays host to the Museu del Perfum.
4. Dos i Una
C/Roselló 275
A designer gift shop with a steel-tiled floor and psychedelic colour scheme. Concentrates on selling “made in Barcelona” items, which make for unusual souvenirs.
5. Ultima Parada
C/Roselló 271 • Closed Sun
A retro shop run by photographers Bela Adler and Salvador Fresneda, who recycle industrial 1950s, 70s and 80s objects and furniture.
6. Nanimarquina
Rosselló 256
Exquisite handmade carpets and textiles are displayed in this artful, whitewashed showroom.
7. Azultierra
C/Corsega 276–282 • Closed Sun
A huge, warehouse-style space with exquisite furniture as well as lighting and all kinds of decorative objects ranging from mirrors to candles.
8. DBarcelona
Av Diagonal 367
An eclectic range of gadgets and gifts in a shop that doubles as an exhibition space for up-and-coming designers and estab lished artists.
9. Jaime Beriestain
C/Pau Claris 167 • 93 515 07 79
The celebrated Chilean designer’s concept store offers gorgeous houseware – light fixtures, kitchenware, tableware, furnishings and furniture – as well as gourmet food items, books, cards and knick-knacks. It also boasts a spectacularly stylish café and restaurant that is open all week until late.
Kitchenware by Jaime Beriestain
10. Bagués Joieria
Pg de Gràcia 41 • Closed Sun
Every piece on sale at this renowned jewellery shop, which was established in 1839, is handmade using traditional methods.
After-Dark Venues
1. Milano
Ronda Universitat 35 • Open noon–2:30am daily
Red velvet sofas and expertly mixed cocktails make this a great option for late-night drinks. There are periodic live jazz performances (see Arena Madre).
2. Xixbar
C/Rocafort 19
A small bar with a big reputation. The gin and tonics, prepared with a range of gins sold in the shop next door, are considered the city’s best.
3. Les Gens que j’Aime
C/Valencia 286 • Open 6pm–2:30am daily (to 3am weekends)
The ideal place to have a drink and enjoy lounge music after exploring the area around Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla Catalunya.
4. Slow Bar
C/Paris 186
This red-hued cocktail bar also has a club and live music venue. It offers a wide range of finely mixed cocktails which visitors can sample.
5. Bar Marfil
Rambla de Catalunya 104
Part of the Hotel Murmuri, this is a trendy bar on a fancy shopping street. Sink into a plush faux-Baroque armchair and sip a delectable cocktail.
6. Luz de Gas
C/Muntaner 246 • DA
A classic late-night watering hole, this place is half concert hall, half bar. It has live music nightly, from blues to jazz and soul.
7. Ideal
C/Aribau 89 • Closed Sun
Luxurious cocktail lounge opened by legendary barman José María Gotarda in 1931 and now run by his son. More than 80 varieties of whisky.
8. City Hall
Rambla de Catalunya 2–4 • Closed Mon
This popular club has two dance floors. Club nights cover a range of music styles, from electro pop to drum ’n’ bass.
9. Ajoblanco
C/Tuset 20 • Open daily until 3am
This swish eatery turns into a hotspot for cocktails late in the evening, with live music on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends. The drinks list also features great local wines.
10. Dry Martini
C/Aribau 162
A classic and elegant venue where extraordinarily talented bartenders are ready to prepare your favourite cocktail. Jazz sounds play unobtrusively in the background.
Bar area at Dry Martini
Cafés
1. Laie Llibreria Cafè
C/Pau Claris 85 • Closed Sun
A cultural meeting place with a lively atmosphere, airy terrace and one of the best bookshops in town (see Laie Llibreria Cafè). There’s an excellent set lunch.
2. Cafè del Centre
C/Girona 69 • Closed Sun
Said to be the oldest café in the Eixample, with dark wooden interiors that have not changed for a century, this is an unpretentious spot for a quiet coffee.
3. Casa Alfonso
C/Roger de Llúria 6 • Closed Sun
This classy café has been in business since 1929. Arguably the best pernil (serrano ham) in the city.
4. Cacao Sampaka
C/Consell de Cent 292 • Closed Sun
An infinite array of chocolate, including innovative combinations such as chocolate with Parmesan cheese or olive oil.
5. Pastelerias Mauri
Rambla Catalunya 102 • Closed Sun from 3pm
One of the best pastry shops in town ever since its opening in 1929. Enjoy a hot drink with an elaborate dessert in Modernista surroundings.
6. Galeria Cosmo
C/Enric Granados 3 • Open 10am–10pm daily
This art gallery café on a semi-pedestrianized street offers sandwiches, cakes and tapas.
Gallery café Galeria Cosmo is decorated with artworks
7. Baluard
Praktik Bakery Hotel, C/Provença
Located inside the lobby of a Scandinavian-style urban hotel, this café-bakery has working ovens on full view. On offer here are gourmet salads, sandwiches and pastries.
8. Velódromo
C/Muntaner 213 • 93 430 60 22
This historic bar with original 1930s furnishings was reopened by local celebrity chef Charles Abellan. The menu features sophisticated versions of Catalan classics.
9. Manso’s Café
C/Manso 1 • Closed Mon
Enjoy fabulous homemade cakes, great coffee (with a choice of milks), delicious soups and quiches at this café. Dine on the little terrace or in the cosy interior.
10. Joséphine
C/Pau Claris 147
Coffee and snacks are served all day at this French colonial café. There’s also an evening menu.
Restaurants and Tapas Bars
1. Monvinic
C/Diputació 249 • 93 272 61 87 • Closed Sun; Mon & Sat L • €€€
An ultra-trendy wine bar with a global wine list. They have excellent tapas plus more substantial fare.
2. Cinc Sentits
C/Aribau 58 • 93 323 94 90 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€
Indulge the five senses (cinc sentits in Catalan) at this stylish restaurant (see Cinc Sentits) where the chef’s contemporary interpretations of classic Catalan cuisine have won it a Michelin star.
3. Igueldo
C/Rosselló 186 • 93 452 25 55 • Closed Sun • €€
Updated Basque cuisine is served in elegant surroundings here (see Igueldo). There’s a tapas counter too.
4. Casa Calvet
C/Casp 48 • 93 412 40 12 • Closed Sun & public hols • €€€
Catalan food with a modern twist is served in beautifully-designed dining rooms by Gaudí.
5. El Principal del Eixample
C/Provença 286–288 • Closed Sunday D • €€
Excellent Mediterranean dishes are served here on the terrace garden. The set lunch menu is good value.
6. Cervecería Catalana
C/Mallorca 236 • 93 216 03 68 • €
Some of the best tapas in town served with a variety of beers, close to the Rambla de Catalunya.
7. Windsor
C/Còrsega 286 • 93 237 75 88 • Closed 3 weeks in Aug • €€€
Catalan haute cuisine is served (see Windsor) in elegant surroundings with chandeliers and red upholstered furniture. There’s also a garden for alfresco dining.
8. La Taverna del Clínic
C/Rosselló 155 • 93 410 42 21 • Closed Sun • €€
This bar (see La Taverna del Clínic) looks ordinary, but its excellent, contemporary tapas is among the best in the city.
9. Paco Meralgo
C/Muntaner 171 • 93 430 90 27 • €
This bright, stylish tapas bar has a gourmet menu based on recipes from around the country.
10. Moments
Pg de Gràcia 38–40 • 93 151 87 81 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€
Set in the ultra-luxurious Mandarin Oriental, Moments has been awarded two Michelin stars for its sublime renditions of Catalan classics, from langoustine tartare to scallops with artichokes. A la carte and tasting menus offered.
Moments at the Mandarin Oriental