t Visitors climbing the Palacio Real’s grand marble staircase

Experience West Madrid

t The sun bathing the limestone north façade of the Palacio Real

This splendid Royal Palace stands on the site of the original Moorish fortress. After the reconquista of Madrid in 1085, this alcázar served as a residence for visiting royals. But, following extensive modifications in 1561, it became the residence of Felipe II until the completion of El Escorial in 1584.

A fire on Christmas Eve 1734, during the reign of Felipe V, all but destroyed the castle. This suited Spain’s first Bourbon king well – Felipe’s idea of a royal palace was the Versailles of his childhood, and so he commissioned a new royal palace decorated in the French style.

Most of the limestone building is the work of Giovanni Battista Sachetti, with later modifications by other architects. So vast was the plan that construction lasted from 1738 to 1755, by which time Felipe V was dead. His son, Carlos III, became the first royal resident and the palace was the home of the Spanish royal family until Alfonso XIII went into exile in 1931.

Insider Tip

Changing of the Guard

Every Wednesday and Saturday, soldiers march on the Plaza de la Armería, in front of the palace, to the sound of fifes, drums and horses’ hoofs. Get there early to get the best spot.

EXPERIENCE West Madrid

Timeline

800s 9th-century alcázar built.

1561 King Felipe II moves his court to Madrid.

1734 The old alcázar burns down.

1738 Construction of the palace begins under the orders of King Felipe V.

1764 King Carlos III moves into the newly built palace.

1931 King Alfonso XIII – the last monarch to live in the palace – decides on voluntary exile.

Inside the Palace

t Crystal chandeliers illuminating the long table in the dining room

Unsurprisingly, the interior of the Palacio Real matches the grandeur of its façade. It is remarkable both for its size and for the exuberant furnishings found in many of the rooms, including luxurious carpets, massive tapestries and glittering silverware. Take a guided tour or carve your own route through some of the 2,800 rooms to see this decor and some fascinating treasures from the royal collection, including glittering suits of armour, masterpieces by Goya and finely tuned violins.

EXPERIENCE West Madrid

Palace Highlights

Stairway to Heaven

Frescoes by Corrado Giaquinto preside over the Toledo marble stairs.

19th-Century Table

The charter by which Spain joined the EU was signed on this table in the Salón de Columnas.

3D Wallpaper

In the Sala de Porcelana, Buen Retiro porcelain covers the walls.

Stradi-various

Off the dining room, there is a room of violins.

Shining Armour

In the armoury, check out Carlos I’s elaborate suit.

EXPERIENCE West Madrid

Palace Rooms

Entrance Rooms The first port of call is the Salón de los Alabarderos (Hall of the Palace Guards), decorated with a fresco by Tiépolo. Adjoining it is the Salón de Columnas (Hall of Columns), which served as the banquet hall until the new dining hall was incorporated in the 19th century. Today it is used for receptions and functions. Next, visitors enter the Rococo Salón del Trono (Throne Room). Completed in 1772, it has two rock crystal chandeliers, numerous candelabra and mirrors, and walls of crimson velvet with silver embroidery. The twin thrones are recent (1977), while the bronze lions that guard them date from 1651. The room is still used for functions, such as the royal reception on the Día de la Hispanidad or the yearly reception for the diplomatic corps posted in Madrid.

Carlos III Rooms Leading off from the Salón del Trono are the king’s private chambers. He would take his meals in the Sala de Gasparini – lonely affairs considering the queen had her own dining room. In the Cámara de Gasparini, with its stucco ceiling and embroidered silk walls, the king would be dressed in the presence of courtiers.

Dining Room This 400-sq-m (4,300-sq-ft) banquet hall was formed in 1879 when the queen’s private chambers were joined together, during the reign of Alfonso XII. It is richly adorned with gold plate decoration on the ceiling and walls, frescoes, chandeliers, Flemish tapestries, Chinese vases and embroidered curtains. The table can accommodate up to 160 diners. The room immediately off the dining hall is devoted to commemorative medals, and also contains the elaborate centrepiece used during banquets. Other rooms contain silverware, china, crystal and an extraordinary collection of musical instruments.

Chapel Rooms Built in 1749–57, the chapel is still used for religious services, and also for musical soirées. While the decor is luxurious, it is the dome, with its murals by Giaquinto, that immediately catches the eye. Next, visitors pass through the Salón de Paso and into María Cristina’s chambers. During the reign of Alfonso XII these four small rooms served as an American-style billiards room, Oriental-style smoking room, the Salón de Estucos (queen’s bedroom) and the Gabinete de Maderas de Indias, used as an office.

Royal Armoury Returning to the Plaza de la Armería, near the ticket office, you come to the Real Armería (Royal Armoury), which is housed in a pavilion built in 1897 after the original armoury was destroyed by fire. It contains weapons and royal suits of armour. On display is an elaborate suit of armour which once belonged to Carlos I. The armoury could be considered as Madrid’s first museum because it has been open to the public since Felipe II inherited the collection from his father.