INDEX

Abati, Deja 39

Abell, Lucinda 16

abstract distortion 43

Adobe see Illustrator; Photoshop

aforest-design 161

Agergaard, Dorte 10, 17

Anastasi, Photini 155, 173

Angove, Michael, “Dill” wallpaper 18

antimicrobial agents on fabrics 186

Argyle pattern 110

Arnold, Charlotte 148

“Art Deco Chair, Two-headed Bird with Sunrays” (Murray) 157

AVA 89

avatar 20

B. Earley see Earley, Rebecca

Ball, Alexa, “Holiday Memories” 36

“Ballet Mécanique” (Thorpe) 25

“Baptism” (Goldsmith) 160, 161

Barker, Zoe 144

“Second Life” 160

Barrett, Brian, “Classical/Contemporary Romantic” 33

basic pattern swatch (Illustrator) 106–7

Basquiat, Jean Michel 33

Basso & Brooke 19

“Madame Brun” 11

batik 44, 152

“Belonging(s)” (Ukeleghe) 145

“Birds and Flowers” (Murray)156

Blur filter (Photoshop) 41

Boase, Petra, “Owl” T-shirt 173

body scanner 18, 20

Bowles, Melanie 34–5

“Digital Shibori”153

“Making Flowers” 48

“Material Attachment” 158, 158

“Wallpaper Dress” 143

“Branch” (Ujiie) 179

Breckon, Amy Isla 124

Brunklaus, Nicolette 14

Brush Creek, Kansas City 18

Burberry jacket 142

bureaus, digital print 185, 185

Butler, Daisy 69, 175

CAD see computer-aided design

“Camouflage Kitchen” dress (Kim) 120–1

Canning, Claire 142, 143

Chalayan, Hussein 10, 12, 19, 19, 21, 21, 186, 186

chequerboards 88

Chin, Kim 159

“Classical/Contemporary Romantic” (Barrett) 33

Clissold, Joyce 168

Cloth 20, 20

CMYK 170, 178, 182, 182

Colefax and Fowler 181

collage 13, 122, 124

collage effect 41

Collins, Victoria, sketchbook 163

color

blends 44–7, 85

management systems 182–3

creating a palette 80–5

separation 180–1, 181

working with 182–3

Color Halftone filter (Photoshop) 42

colorants 176–7, 177

smart 186

Colored Pencil filter (Photoshop) 41

colorways 181, 181

Comme des Garçons 10

Como, Italy 150, 170, 184, 184

computer-aided design (CAD) 13, 180–1, 180, 184

copyright 28

Crafts Council, the 164, 165

Creative Industries Faculty (Queensland University of Technology) 158

croquis 179

cross-dyeing 146, 147

cross-stitch effects (Illustrator) 52–5

customization 20

Cutout filter (Photoshop) 41

Delaunay, Sonia 19

Dennis, Sarah, “Wallpaper Dress” 143

desktop digital textiles 159

Devaux, Dominique 143

“Exotic Paradise” 144, 155

devoré and digital print 146, 146, 147

diamonds 88, 108–11

Digital Craft on the Fringe exhibition 39

“Digital Photogram Collage” (Earley) 164

digital printing 168–86; see also inkjet printing; printers; printing techniques

advantages of 12, 18, 171, 178–9

bureaus 185, 185

working with color 182–3

disadvantages 179

in the future 186

print houses 184

software 180–1, 180–1

timescales 21, 171, 178

“Digital Shibori” (Bowles) 153

digital stitching 151

digital stylus pen 24, 34, 66

“Dill” wallpaper (Angove) 18

direct inkjet printing process 174–5, 174, 175

“disco” shirts 13

displacement maps (Photoshop) 126–8

Distort filters (Photoshop) 43

dots per inch (dpi) 28; see also resolution

drawing and illustration 30, 122–39

drawn textures 41

D’Souza, Anjali, “Futuristic Traveller” sketchbook 27

Dupont 12, 178

dye-sublimation printingsee sublimation printing

dyes 176–7, 186

Eary, Katie 16

Earley, Rebecca 164–5

“The Conscious Gardener” 165

“Digital Photogram Collage” 165

“Pin Print” 165

“Top 100” 165

eco textile design 165; see also environmental issues

embellishment 154

embroidered effect 43

embroidery 154–5, 155

engineered prints 56–61, 179; see also placement prints

engraved roller printing 169

environmental issues 12, 18, 158, 165, 178

Epson 178, 182

European Textile Network 39

Ever & Again exhibition (Chelsea College of Art and Design) 158

Ever & Again: Rethinking Recycled Textiles project (Earley) 165

“Exotic Paradise” (Devaux) 144, 155

Extrude filter (Photoshop) 42

fabric pens 144

fabrics

antimicrobial agents on 186

digital print onto vintage 158, 158

Fernandes, Louisa-Claire, “Simplexity” 146, 147

Fernandez, Pauline 125

file sizes 28

filters and effects (Photoshop) 40–3, 84–5

First2Print, New York 185, 185

fixation of colorants 176–7

flexible screen technology 186, 186

flocking 148, 148, 150, 151

floral designs and motifs 48–51, 88, 116–19, 136

foiling 148–9, 148, 149

four-color process printing 168, 170, 170

Fowles, Joanna 153

“Fragmented Bell” (Children’s Home of Cincinnati/Shelly Goldsmith) 160, 161

Frere-Smith, Catherine

“The Old Farm House” 159

sketchbook 27

“Futuristic Traveller” sketchbook (D’Souza) 27

Gearing, Nicky 158

gingham (Photoshop) 100–3

Glass filter (Photoshop) 43

“Glory Scarf Money Bag” (Trust Fun) 10

Goldsmith, Shelly

“Baptism” 160, 161

“Found by the Sea” 143

“Fragmented Bell” (with the Children’s Home of Cincinnati) 160, 161

Grain filter (Photoshop) 42

graphic silhouettes (Illustrator and Photoshop) 136–8

gravure printing 168–9, 169

Gregson, Jemima 39, 173

“Jemima’s World” 56

“New York, New York” 24

half-drop (Illustrator) 116–19

half-drop repeat 79, 88–9, 94–9

hand painting and digital print 144, 144

Harrods, London 20

heat-transfer printing 13, 18, 168, 170–1, 171; see also sublimation printing

heat-photogram process (Earley) 164–5

hemp 142, 158

Herceg, Nada, “Kaleidoscope” 37

Hermès 181

“Hobie” aloha shirt 171

“Holiday Memories” (Ball) 36

Holmes, Holly, “Repeaticities” 125

Hoppe, Katie130

Houldsworth, Imogen, “Private View” 17

House, Emily, “Plastic Maze” 149

Huang Wha, China 184

Illustrator 18, 24, 25, 34, 44, 48, 180

basic pattern swatch 106–7

color blends 44–7

color palette 80–5

cross-stitch effects 52–5

diamond pattern 108–11

floral motifs 48–51

graphic silhouettes (Illustrator and Photoshop) 136–9

half-drop 116–19

pattern files into Photoshop 111

photographs, working with 36, 136–7

plaid patterns 112–15

repeats 88–9

Indigo textile fair, Paris 26

inkjet printing 12, 13, 18, 160, 172–5, 172–5, 176, 178–9, 186; see also digital printing

direct inkjet printing process 174–5, 174, 175

inkjet transfers 160–61, 160, 161, 173, 173

inks, nanoparticles in 186

“Ink Storm” (Van Gennip) 10

intaglio see gravure printing

interactive textiles 186

“Interference” (Cooper)24

Isaac, Ceri 15, 20

Isis printer 12, 171, 178

J. A. Gilmartin 185

jeans, customized 20

“Jemima’s World” (Gregson) 56

Jones, Katie Irving 155

“You Can’t Hurry Love”62

Joseph, Kitty 29

“Colour Immersion”26

Kane, Christopher 150

“Galaxy”12

“Kaleidoscope” (Herceg) 37

“Kaleidoscope” (Kim) 123

Katrantzou, Mary 16

“This Is Not a Room”11

Kim, Chae Young

“Camouflage Kitchen” dress 120–1

“Kaleidoscope” 123

kimonos 169

Kitazaki, Hana, “The Magic Flute” 30

Konica 12

“Laces” (Ukeleghe) 145

Lamusias, Sara 161

Lane, Abigail 14

large-scale images 12, 18

lay plans 18, 19, 19, 20

Lectra 89

LED technology 186, 186

Lehtinen, Taina 162

Liberty, London 150–1

life drawing 122

“Lillian” (Wilcox) 24, 32

live time-repeat 181

Locastro, Dan (First2Print, New York) 185, 185

London College of Fashion 20, 158

Lumalive (Philips) 186

MacCurrach, Rosie31

“Magic Flute, The” (Kitazaki) 30

“Making Flowers” (Bowles) 48

Mantero print house, Como, Italy 184

“Material Attachment” (Bowles)158

McQueen, Alexander 11, 19, 19, 150

metallic foils 148, 148, 149

metallic inks 186

Mimaki 12, 18, 56, 148, 172, 172, 175, 178, 182

“Mineral Scarves” (Weston) 150–1, 151

Minolta 12

Miyake, Issey 10

moiré effects 24

Moys, Beatrice, “Building Blocks” 26

Muller, Henry, “The Outer Face” 33

Mullins, Amelia 148

Murdoch, Vicki 89

Murray, Helen Amy 156–7

“Art Deco Chair, Two-headed Bird with Sunrays” 156

“Birds and Flowers” 157

muslin 21

Natural Indigo (Eden Project) 165

“New York, New York” (Gregson) 24

Nike 20

O’Connor, Marie 24

ogees 88

“One Tribe, One Style” (Prajapati) 162

“Ophilia” (Purver) 92, 96

organic fabrics 158

Organic Light-Emitting Polymers (OLEPs) 186

Orth, Maggie 186

Osiris 12, 178

“Outer Face, The” (Muller) 33

over-printing 142

“Owl” T-shirt (Boase)173

Paolozzi, Eduardo 25, 33

Papandreou, Georgina 149

patternssee repeat patterns

Patterson, Andrea 80, 155, 159

photography 10, 36–9, 66–9, 76–9, 80–5, 122

first use in textile design 13

tracing a photograph (Illustrator) 136–7

photomontage 13, 66–9

photoprinting 168

Photoshop 13, 18, 21, 24, 28, 30, 34, 56, 62, 120, 180

basic block repeat 90–1

block repeat with offset filter 92–3

Brush palette 70–5

color blends 85

displacement maps 126–9

engineered prints 56–61

filters and effects 40–3, 84–5

gingham 100–3

graphic silhouettes (Illustrator and Photoshop) 136–9

half-drop repeat 96–9

illustration 122–39

Illustrator pattern files into 111

photographs, working with 36

photomontage 66–9

repeats 76–9, 88–9

sequin effects 62–5

simple half-drop motif 94–5

stripes 104–5

textured effects 76–9

texture map and line drawing 130–5

transparent overlays 84

pigments 176–7

pin marks 168

Pixelate filter (Photoshop) 42

pixels 24, 172

placement prints 10, 18, 19, 28; see also engineered prints

plaids 88, 89, 112–15

“Plastic Maze” (House) 149

Pointcarré 89

polka dots 88

pollution see environmental issues

polyester 13, 162–3, 164

polygons 45–7

Potter, Alice, “When I Sleep I Dream of Play” 160

Prada 12

Prajapati, Chetna 162

“One Tribe, One Style” 162

Prince’s Trust 164

printingtechniques see also digital printing

desktop digital textiles 159

electrostatic 172, 172

engraved roller 169

four-color process 168, 170, 170

gravure 168–9, 169

heat-transfer see sublimation

inkjet 12, 13, 18, 160, 168, 172–6, 178–9, 186

large-format digital textile 12, 172–3

photoprinting 168

relief 168

rotary screen 170, 170, 171

silk-screen 145, 145, 169, 169, 170, 170, 171

stencilling 168–9, 169

sublimation 13, 18, 159, 162–3, 162, 163, 164, 173, 173

woodblock 168, 168

“Private View” (Houldsworth) 17

Pucci, Emilio 19

“Purpose, Wisdom and Enlightenment” (Ukeleghe) 145

Purver, Victoria 31

“Ophilia” 92, 96

quilting 160

“Rainbow Dress” (Williamson) 149

Rampton, Emma, “Second Chance” 154

Raster Image Processor (RIP) 174, 182

Ratti print house, Como, Italy 184, 184

“Recollection” (Stone) 38

Reggiani 12, 178

Reindell, Jula 17

“Repeaticities” (Holmes) 125

repeat patterns 18, 77–9, 88–119

basic block repeat (Photoshop) 90–1

basic pattern swatch (Illustrator) 106–7

block repeat with offset filter (Photoshop) 92–3

creating a good repeat 79

diamond pattern (Illustrator) 108–11

gingham (Photoshop) 100–3

half-drop repeat (Illustrator) 116–19

half-drop repeat (Photoshop) 79, 88–9, 96–9

plaid patterns (Illustrator) 112–15

repeat programs for printers 28

simple half-drop motif (Photoshop) 94–5

stripes (Photoshop) 104–5

tile repeats 88–9

research and inspiration 26

resist dyeing 152–3, 152, 153; see also batik

resolution 24, 28; see also dots per inch

RGB 182–3, 182

Robustelli 12, 172, 178

rotary screen printing 170, 170, 171; see also printing techniques

Round, Kathryn, 36

Rucci, Ralph 13

Sagmeister, Stefan, “Darwin Chair” 16

Saunders, Jonathan 11, 19, 150

scanning 28, 142, 150; see also body scanner

seam mending 92–3, 96, 98

“Second Chance” (Rampton) 154

“Second Life” (Barker) 160

Seiren, Japan 184

Selfridges, London 20

sequin effects 62–5

shibori 152–3, 152, 153; see also batik

Showroom Dummies 14

silhouettes, creating graphic (Photoshop) 136–9

silk-screen effect 43

silk-screen printing 169, 169, 171; see also rotary screen printing

and digital print 145, 145

mechanized flatbed 170, 170

simple half-drop motif (Photoshop) 94–5

“Simplexity” (Fernandes) 146–7

sketchbooks 26, 27

Smith, Paul 14, 21, 170

spectrophotometer 183, 183

Stack, Debbie 158

Stained Glass filter (Photoshop) 43

stencilling 168–9, 169

stepping out see tile repeats

Stone, Emma, “Recollection” 38

stripes 88, 89, 104–5

Stumph, Martin 15

sublimation printing 13, 18, 159, 162–3, 162, 163, 164, 171, 171, 173, 173

T-shirt transfer see inkjet transfers

tabi 161

Textile Environment Design (TED) project (Chelsea College of Art and Design, London) 158, 164, 165; see also environmental issues

texture-map and line drawing (Photoshop) 130–5

textured effects 76–9

“This Is Not a Room” (Katrantzou) 30

Thorpe, Claire 52

“Ballet Mécanique” 25

Tien, Jennis Li Cheng, “es_cape” 124

Tijani, Temitope 4–5, 39, 163

tile repeats 88–9, 106–11

toile de Jouy 169, 169

“Top 100” (Earley) 164, 165

tracking 88

transfers, inkjet 160–61, 160, 161

transparent overlays (Photoshop) 84

trompe l’oeil 10, 13, 17, 17, 19, 56

Truckenbrod, Joan 18

Trust Fun, “Glory Scarf Money Bag” 10

Turner, Claire 76

Ujiie, Hitoshi 15

“Branch” 179

Ukeleghe, Emamoke

“Belonging(s)”145

“Laces” 145

“My Family Album” 44, 44

“Purpose, Wisdom and Enlightenment” 145

Universal Display Corporation 186

Van Gennip, Mark, “Ink Storm” 10

Versace, Gianni 19

Vesey, Deborah 32

vintage effect 42

vintage fabrics, digital print onto 158, 158

vintage garments 154

virtual catwalk 20

Vuletich, Clara 142

“Wallpaper Dress” (Bowles and Dennis) 143

washing fabric 177

Wave filter (Photoshop) 43

waves (Photoshop) 85

Webber, Tristan 19

Well Fashioned (Crafts Council exhibition) 165

Weston, Richard, “Mineral Scarves” 150–1, 151

West Side Story 80, 84

Wexla 20

“When I Sleep I Dream of Play” (Potter) 160

Wilcox, Rowenna, “Lillian” 24, 32

Williamson, Matthew, “Rainbow Dress” 149

woodblock printing 168, 168

“You Can’t Hurry Love” (Jones) 62

Yun, Hong Yeon 70