CHAPTER 7
Hair and Makeup
For my first TV job, I had the unusual and good fortune of having my parents within my station's viewing audience. They were able to watch their daughter fumble her way through the steep learning curve of her trade.
I will never forget calling my mom after I anchored my first newscast. Here's a close facsimile of the conversation:
- Me: Mom, how did I do?
- Mom: Oh, Karin, your hair looked great!
- Me: Mom, no one cares about my hair.
I was hoping for a glowing critique of my anchoring skills. The assessment of my hairdo was not what I was expecting. I thought it was totally inconsequential. How wrong I was.
Many years and a TV station later, I had my “eureka” moment. On a whim, I decided to chop off my long hair into a short, modified pixie style. When I went on the air that night, the phones lit up at the station. It seemed everyone wanted to weigh in on my new 'do. In fact, I was told by the station operator that she couldn't recall another time when the phones were busier. Thankfully, the comments were mostly positive, but it was an eye-opener, for sure.
You may not give a whit about whether your mane is managed, and you may never go near a makeup counter—but messy hair and a washed-out face may not give you the credibility boost you are looking for. Your lack of interest in hair and makeup could actually diminish the impact of your performance if your viewers can't stop wondering if you bothered to look in the mirror beforehand. Vanity is not the driver—your mission is. Don't let your message be lost in your bangs over your eyes.
Hair Hassles
To commemorate one of my anniversaries at my TV station, my colleagues put together a montage of all of my different hairstyles through the years. Of course, the results were a little horrifying. What I thought was cutting edge at the time looked terribly out of touch only a few years later. However, there was a common thread through all of my evolving looks; each style was camera friendly.
I realize you likely did not pick your style based on whether it would flatter your face while on camera. While you may not be able to change your cut for your occasional video appearance, you may need to mitigate potential problems.
Female newscasters were often accused of wearing “helmet head” hairstyles, which seemed to form a shell, similar to the plastic hair caps that can pop on and off of Lego characters. Mockery aside, those styles did serve a purpose. No one sporting one of those hairdos ever had their hair fall over their faces.
If your long locks have a laissez-faire attitude, you run the risk of having them invade your face and appear to swallow it on camera. While it may not be annoying to casually flip it away from your face when talking to someone in person, the repetitive movement on camera quickly wears out its welcome. If you are being shot shoulders up, imagine how exaggerated that motion would appear.
Hairstyles that frame the face can also cause problems. Most studio shoots involve multiple lights, not just a spotlight shining at you from the front. If you are being lit from the side, your hair can cast unwanted and unflattering shadows on your face. Additional lighting can help compensate for it but can't always eliminate it.
Hair problems can also extend to audio issues if your hair extends beyond your shoulders. Lavaliere microphones are the most commonly used mics in corporate video. If your hair is long enough, it can inadvertently brush against that microphone. You may think your hair isn't heavy enough to actually make noise, but often, mics are sensitive enough to pick it up.
So what do you do if your hairstyle is not of the helmet head variety?
If your length allows, consider pulling your hair back to avoid any potential problems. Eye contact is incredibly important in creating that connection with your audience, and you don't want your hair to get in the way of that. Another option is to simply keep your hair behind your shoulders provided it won't stray to the front in mid-
performance. If your bangs are the issue, find a hairspray that will keep them in check and away from your eyes.
Hairspray can also be your best weapon when combatting flyaways. Blondes have more of a challenge than brunettes because the light has a tendency to play off the lighter strands. Make sure you have someone check in whatever monitor you are using for stray hairs sticking out in the wrong direction. Harness them with a hairspray that promises a flexible hold or use a smoothing serum to keep the flyaways grounded.
On-Camera Makeup Musts for Women
When working as on-camera talent for a corporate video job, I often have access to a professional makeup artist on site. It may not be quite equivalent to a trip to the spa, but it is purely decadent to sit down in a chair and have someone “fix me.” I have worked with countless talented makeup professionals over the years, and I am always grateful for their ability to transform me from a barefaced, sleep-deprived mom into someone who is broadcast worthy.
However, not every camera shoot garners a makeup artist's magic, especially if that on-camera communication is taking place at home over WebEx. (Wouldn't that be fun, though, if every virtual video meeting came with a “makeup artist on call”?)
In the event that you are left to your own devices—and makeup kit—this section gives you some general guidelines to follow that are well within your skills set. You may not be as camera perfect as you would be at the hands of a professional, but you will certainly look camera pretty-darn-good.
What You Need in Your Kit
You do not need to look like a member of the cast of Cirque du Soleil, but you do not want to be washed out. Women who never wear makeup might be uncomfortable with anything on their face, whereas other women who wear it every day may have no problem putting even more on. Finding the amount of makeup that makes you feel and look your best on camera might require some trial and error.
With that in mind, this section describes the must do's as well as some could do's if you are so inclined.
Moisturizer
Even if you do wear makeup regularly, any on-camera makeup requires a slightly heavier hand. With that in mind, you need to prepare your skin for what is going to be applied. Peeling, dry skin will flake even more once products are put on, so be sure to moisturize in advance. You want to make sure it has time to sink in.
Another thing you can do is apply a primer to your clean, moisturized face. This will create a smooth canvas and extend the life of your foundation.
Foundation
Foundation can create the effect of a smooth, uniform complexion and cover up any minor imperfections. Typically, a liquid foundation will be more forgiving than a full powder one, which has a tendency to settle in wrinkles or fine lines.
Some makeup artists insist upon using spray-on foundation that requires a laborious process you definitely don't want to try at home. Most of you will apply your foundation using a sponge, a brush, or even your fingers. Remember, foundation isn't just for your face. Make sure your neck is covered as well so you don't have an obvious line at your jawline where the foundation ends. If your hands will be in the shot, consider applying foundation to the back of them as well, especially if their tone will be in stark contrast to that of your face.
Powder
Shine is the enemy for any on-camera performer. What may look dewy and youthful in person can come across as just plain greasy on video. Powder, either loose or compact, can take that shine out of the equation. If you are in a studio, you also may sweat under the lights. In fact, if you are doing a high-stakes presentation on camera, you may sweat regardless of the heat generated by your lighting. Perspiration can slide your makeup off of your face. Powder can help to prevent that.
Eye Makeup
One of the first things my students notice when reviewing their baseline recordings is how their eyes seem to disappear. The camera flattens your features. With that in mind, it is up to you to draw them out, sometimes literally.
Simple eye shadow without a shimmer or sheen helps to emphasize your eyes. You don't need to figure out how to create “the smoky eye” or master where to use all three shades in your eye shadow compact, but some color will add dimension that a naked eye does not have on camera. A good mascara and eyeliner will also go a long way toward defining your eyes. Most of the makeup artists I know apply extra eyeliner toward the outer edges of the eye and put a darker shade of shadow in the crease to create a sense of depth.
Your color choice follows the same rule as your wardrobe. Use the color palette that you are drawn to but don't seek to make a statement. You still want the focus to be on what you are saying rather than that crazy shade you put on your eyelids.
The cardinal rule, though, is to opt for matte over glimmer. Santa can have a twinkle in his eye. You should not, if it's the result of some odd interaction between the lights and your glitzy eye shadow.
Cheeks
Through the miracle of foundation, you have created a flawless face, but there's a problem. Your face likely has no definition. Blush can alleviate your apparent lack of cheekbones on camera and adds some welcome color to your monochrome complexion. You will need to apply more than you think reasonable because the lights will blast out much of the color anyway.
Lip Color
While I wouldn't suggest going Marilyn Monroe red, adding color to your lips can also help you define your features. A lip stain or matte lipstick can provide that pop of color but you want to avoid lip glosses, which will reflect the light in unpredictable ways. If you already wear lipstick, there really isn't a need to stray from your norm. If you don't, find a neutral color that doesn't take you too far out of your comfort zone.
Makeup for Men
Makeup makes most men squirm. They fear the application as well as the end result. But you want your performance to shine, not your face.
When I worked in television news, I had the pleasure of interviewing an entertaining and eloquent mayor named Buddy Cianci. Mayor Cianci went about running the city of Providence wearing a face full of foundation every day. I swear I never saw him without makeup until his mug shot (but that's another story). Buddy made a lot of news, so he was frequently featured on camera. Consequently, he was always camera ready. Buddy understood that his audience would not be able to focus on his words if they couldn't get past his appearance.
I am not suggesting you carry pancake makeup with you at all times, but if you have a tendency to look a little oily, you will want to address it. That could mean using a little powder on the typical trouble spots called the T-zone: the forehead, nose, and chin.
Another option, which might be more palatable, is a clear matte gel found at most makeup counters. It is designed to control shine like a powder but does not add any color. I use one made by MAC Cosmetics on many of my male students, especially those who have foreheads that seem to extend all the way to the back of their heads. You can apply the gel with a makeup sponge, and no one even knows you are wearing it.
Aside from controlling the shine, men are in the low-maintenance makeup category. In other words, you can leave the false eyelashes at home.
Glasses or No Glasses
One of the most dramatic changes I have seen one of my participants make over the course of training is to go from glasses to contacts. The first day, she watched her bespectacled-self doing her baseline performance and apparently decided she needed to take immediate action. The second session was only two days later, but she came in sans glasses.
Despite that example, going on camera does not mandate that you toss your eyewear, especially if you need them desperately to see.
Deciding on whether or not to wear your glasses is another scenario where form follows function. If you are nearsighted and the camera appears to be a fuzzy blob, you should definitely opt to wear them. If you opt out, you will find it terribly difficult to stay relaxed, because you've made yourself uncomfortable at your core. Even worse, you will squint at your audience.
If glasses are part of your authentic self, then they should be part of your on-camera wardrobe. However, you may have to compensate for a glare from the lights.
Be sure you check out how your lenses interact with the light in the environment prior to your performance. If you are presenting to a camera on your phone or laptop, check the shot beforehand to see if you are registering any odd glares. It may be a matter of adjusting the position of a lamp or closing blinds on the window. If you are presenting in a formal studio setting, ask the crew to watch out for strange reflections. In one of the studios where I often teach, glasses have a tendency to display a greenish cast, which requires some modifications and experimentation with different lighting setups.
If your glasses are simply for style or only for reading, you may want to skip them altogether to avoid any of the issues mentioned.
Chapter Takeaways
- If you do not pay attention to your hair and makeup, you may diminish the impact of your performance.
- Keep your hair away from your face to avoid it becoming a distraction.
- Long hair can brush against the microphone and interfere with a lavaliere microphone.
- Makeup is essential for both men and women.
- Women need a heavier hand when applying makeup for on-camera.
- Men need to keep the shine on their faces or heads at bay by using powder or a matte gel designed to control shine.
- Be aware of potential glare on the lenses of glasses and adjust the lighting if necessary.