“The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.”
—Albert Einstein
Whether traveling by boat, plane, car, or train, there are markers to determine where you are and beacons to help navigate the path where you want to go. We all stand at different milestone markers of our financial journey and we all need beacons to set the glide path going forward.
Whether you have a lot of assets, are just getting started, or are even behind, you can have balance. Let's take a look at the four phases of your financial L.I.F.E.
I'm going to present the phases in two chapters. I group Launch and Independence together because they involve a lot of questions about getting started, managing student debt, breaking the paycheck-to-paycheck cycle, and buying a house. If you are able to successfully move past the Independence phase, you likely have a net worth greater than approximately 60 percent of the United States and will be on track for a successful retirement.1
I group the Freedom and Equilibrium phases in a separate chapter because they are breakthrough levels where you have built up enough assets that allow you to truly make strategic choices with respect to debt, your balance sheet, and the optimal path forward.
People who are fortunate enough to be in this zone have clearly done something right. That said, I will prove there is an optimal way to balance debt throughout your life. I will show you a path that will materially increase the chances you will be on track for a successful retirement and able to balance the tri-mandate of saving, paying down debt, and enjoying the present.
To figure out where you are in the four phases, divide your net worth by your gross household income. Gross income is how much you are paid—the top line—before taxes, before savings, before health care and before all of the other expenses that come out of our paychecks. Here are some quick examples:
Launch: Net worth is less than 50 percent of gross annual pretax income
Independence: Net worth is between 50 percent and two times your gross annual pretax income
Freedom: Net worth is between two and five times your gross annual pretax income
Equilibrium: Net worth is greater than five times your gross annual pretax income
I encourage you to review all of these phases because this is the foundation of the process. From here, we can build a framework for balance customized to you, your goals, your life, and the circumstances you find yourself in at any given point in time. Chances are very low that your life looks exactly like any of the following examples so I will discuss how to tailor the process to where you are and where you want to be.
Within each phase we lay out a prioritization of goals. I like to think of money coming into a household like water through a hose. We need to make choices on where we want to direct that hose, which plants we want to water and in what order. Once one plant is watered, we move on to the next one. Sometimes when we water plants, we may water one for a while, move on to some others, and then come back to a particularly thirsty tree to top it off. The same concept applies here. Sometimes we will focus on a few objectives, then come back to top things off. Once you complete all the steps from one phase, you can move on to the next.
I encourage you to utilize the interactive tools and worksheets from the different phases on our website, valueofdebt.com.
When your net worth is less than 50 percent of your gross annual income, you want to take as many steps as possible to avoid taking on any new debt. To be clear, I mean all debt. If your net worth is less than 50 percent of your gross annual income, debt can be the evil force that causes bad things to happen in your life. Many of those in the anti-debt camp are typically giving advice to this segment of the population and, in many cases, their advice is solid.
I have found that a heavy concentration of debt horror stories generally have at least two of the following three things in common:
Learn from others and avoid a similar fate. If you are in the Launch phase, I need you to survive and to move forward. I want you to eliminate oppressive debt and build up liquidity and flexibility.
Because of the power of compounding interest, you want to build a retirement base as early as you can. Target a level equal to one-month's income. Ideally this is in a tax-deferred plan such as an IRA or a company-sponsored retirement plan like a 401(k).
I want to be clear on the order: First, have zero oppressive debt and a one-month cash reserve. Second, start building up retirement savings.
To me, one of the most important accomplishments of this phase is the likely impact on your future behavior. All of the best savers I know avoid oppressive debt and have a cash reserve. Zero in their checking account isn't zero, it is when they hit the lower limit of where they feel comfortable, typically at least a three-month reserve. Once you get comfortable holding cash and not having oppressive debt, you will have a strong foundation from which you can build the rest of your savings.
Jason and Amy make $96,000 per year. Their monthly income is about $8,000 per month. They have $5,000 on their credit card, $2,000 in their checking account, $3,000 in their savings account, and $15,000 in their 401(k). Table 3.1 shows where they are and compares it to a balanced path. They could use the glide path to guide their decisions.
Table 3.1 A Sample Balanced Path—Launch!
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where They Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate higher than 10 percent) | 0 | $ 0 | $5,000 on the credit card at 20 percent | –$ 5,000 |
Build a one-month cash reserve (checking account) | Monthly income × 1 | $ 8,000 | $ 2,000 | –$ 6,000 |
Start a retirement plan. Build to a balance of one month's income | Monthly income × 1 | $ 8,000 | $15,000 | $7,000 |
Continue building cash savings until you have an additional two months' reserve (savings account) | Monthly income × 2 | $16,000 | $ 3,000 | –$13,000 |
The table suggests Jason and Amy reprioritize, and they consider:
This is a pretty common situation in which people have a strong early start to retirement savings but also have credit card debt and limited cash savings. If this is you, I'm thrilled you've started saving for retirement early, but I'm concerned you do not have enough liquidity to handle the curve balls life sends.
Here's how I suggest Jason and Amy change things. Let's assume they are saving 12 percent, all in their 401(k). Their employer matches 3 percent of the first 3 percent of their contribution. They could consider the following action steps:
They should try to accomplish these goals over a three- to five-year period. If they try to do it in less than three years, the change would be too radical and nudge them off course. I would further advise that they target building toward an 18 percent savings rate. They could do this by increasing their savings by 1 percent per year for the next three years. They would be saving 15 percent plus their employer match of 3 percent, for a total of 18 percent.2
If you aren't saving at 15 percent, you should build to that rate over time. Here is a good trick to get there: Take 15 percent less your current savings rate/5. For example, if you are saving at 5 percent, then 15 percent less 5 percent = 10 percent. 10 percent/5 = 2 percent. You could consider increasing your savings by 2 percent per year for the next five years, gradually working toward 15 percent.
For example, if your household makes $60,000 per year, you would write down $5,000. If your household makes $120,000, you would write down $10,000.
Using your monthly income as a base figure, we can start to build a customized plan and a glide path. Together, we will create a table with a suggestion for what a balanced path can look like. Then we can fill in where you are at this point in your life. The final step will be to look at the gap between the balanced path and where you are right now. If you are higher in a certain area, then I suggest you de-emphasize adding to that bucket. If you are lower in a certain area, then you will want to focus on building to the target zone.
It is important that you look at each step sequentially, like a video game: You have to clear level one in order to get to level two. This is true for the phases and the steps within a phase. Once a step is full, check it off and move on to the next step or phase.
We all learn at different paces and in different ways. Being familiar with how to use these tables will be key to moving forward in the other phases so Table 3.2 includes more commentary on how the process works. If it is still confusing, I recommend you read through the material one time, focusing on the examples, and then come back and try it with your personal life.
Table 3.2 Instructions (Assume annual income of $60,000 and monthly income of $5,000)
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where You Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | 0 | Write down the total amount of oppressive debt you have—debt like credit card debt. | The difference between the balanced path and where you are. |
Cash reserve, build to a one-month reserve (checking account) | Monthly income × 1 | Write down your monthly income × 1. For example, $5,000 | If you have at least one-month reserve in checking, write that number down. If it is lower, write that number down. | Write down the difference between the goal and what you have. |
Start a retirement plan. Build to a balance of one month's income | Monthly income × 1 | Write down your monthly income × 1. For example, $5,000 | Write down the total balance of your retirement plans. | Write down the difference between the goal and what you have. |
Continue building cash savings until you have an additional two months' reserve (savings account) | Monthly income × 2 | Write down your monthly income × 2. For example, $10,000 | Write down the total of your checking and savings, less the one-month reserve above. | Write down the difference between the goal and what you have. |
Table 3.3 is for you to use so we can determine a specific action plan. I recommend you begin with the column that says Balanced Path first. This will give you the glide path for what each goal should look like. As you fill in where you are, start at the top and work down. For example, the goal is zero oppressive debt. If you have $10,000 on your credit card then you would write zero in the balanced path, $10,000 where you are and $0 – $10,000 in the gap column = (–$10,000). This gap of $10,000 means that you are $10,000 too high, you have $10,000 too much oppressive debt. If this is the case, I suggest you deemphasize other goals and focus on paying down credit card debt.
Table 3.3 Blank Phase 1: Launch!
Step/Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where You Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | 0 | ||
Cash reserve, build to a one-month reserve (checking account) | Monthly income × 1 | |||
Start a retirement plan. Build to a balance of one month's income | Monthly income × 1 | |||
Continue building cash savings until you have an additional two months' reserve (savings account) | Monthly income × 2 |
As you fill out the table, try not to get discouraged about any existing gaps you have. Remember, it is not helpful to look at the past. Know that much of America is right where you are, and many are likely worse off than you. Focus on the future and you can have a successful Launch.
There is one complicating trick to this phase: I am separating your checking and savings accounts. I want you to have a three-month total reserve so you break the paycheck-to-paycheck cycle. I think it is important to separate the money and use your checking account for expenses and a savings account for emergencies. I find it helpful to separate the two, but if you disagree you can look at those two steps as interconnected goals and focus on the total in the two accounts.
The bigger point is that too many people over emphasize retirement savings early and risk having too little in cash while they also have oppressive debt. This is the cycle that I want you to break.
When your household income is more than $50,000 and you have no oppressive debt, a retirement plan with a balance of at least one month's income, and three months' cash reserve, congratulations are in order. You are ahead of approximately 40 percent of Americans.3 You're much less likely to live paycheck to paycheck again. You can consider buying a home or making those major purchases. And, if you can accomplish this and establish an excellent credit score, your financial future is bright.
My goal is to make the advice throughout this book specific and actionable. With that in mind, let's address some of the more common questions that come up during this phase that warrant more discussion:
Many people find themselves with student debt and are trying to balance building up savings, paying down debt, and enjoying life. If you have student debt, it is essential that your savings rate be at least 15 percent, and ideally, closer to 20 percent of your income. Although this might sound high, remember, I count the principal payment toward your debt as part of your savings rate. It is also important to know I would recommend against saving more than 30 percent—if you are newly out of school this is a prime time to enjoy life! Therefore, 15 percent to 30 percent should be your markers in the channel.
If you are not saving at this level, use the trick I outlined earlier to work toward a 15 percent goal over the next three to five years: 15 percent target—your current savings rate/5. For example, if you are saving 5 percent, then 15 percent – 5 percent = 10 percent/5 years means that you should add 2 percent per year to your savings and gradually ramp toward the 15 percent rate.
Jenny makes $40,000 a year. I suggest she save $6,000 to $12,000 per year. If she saves less than that, say $2,000, then I would suggest that she increase her savings by 2 percent per year for the next five years. If Jenny gets raises and not only keeps her savings percentage constant, but also adds to it, she's on a very powerful glide path. Table 3.4 shows what her life could look like in a few short years.
Table 3.4 Ramping Up Savings
Time | Income | Savings | Savings Step Up | Total Savings | Total Annual Savings | Income after Savings |
Year 0 | $40,000 | 5% | 0% | 5% | $2,000 | $38,000 |
Year 1 | $44,000 | 5% | 2% | 7% | $3,080 | $40,920 |
Year 2 | $48,000 | 7% | 2% | 9% | $4,320 | $43,680 |
Year 3 | $52,000 | 9% | 2% | 11% | $5,720 | $46,280 |
Year 4 | $56,000 | 11% | 2% | 13% | $7,280 | $48,720 |
Year 5 | $60,000 | 13% | 2% | 15% | $9,000 | $51,000 |
Table 3.5 Ramping Up Savings—Higher Income
Time | Income | Savings | Savings Step Up | Total Annual Savings | Total Annual Savings | Income after Savings |
Year 0 | $60,000 | 5% | 0% | 5% | $ 3,000 | $57,000 |
Year 1 | $65,000 | 5% | 2% | 7% | $ 4,550 | $60,450 |
Year 2 | $70,000 | 7% | 2% | 9% | $ 6,300 | $63,700 |
Year 3 | $75,000 | 9% | 2% | 11% | $ 8,250 | $66,750 |
Year 4 | $80,000 | 11% | 2% | 13% | $10,400 | $69,600 |
Year 5 | $85,000 | 13% | 2% | 15% | $12,750 | $72,250 |
If you are under 25 years old, I think it is fine to start with a 5 percent savings rate and to gradually increase it toward 15 percent over the next five years. The trade-off may be that you have to work longer, but trust me—mid 20s is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that is to be enjoyed to its fullest. If you can avoid oppressive debt and get through the Launch phase, covering the minimum payments on student debt, you are doing great.
If you are older than 25, it is never too late to get started. If Jenny is 30 and making $60,000 today and saving 5 percent, then the same rules would apply. She'd bump up her savings by 2 percent each year until she gets to the 15 percent objective. Table 3.5 shows what this could look like.
I assume Jenny receives raises. I have no idea what those raises will actually look like. But, as an educated young professional, I assume her income will go up early in her career. Importantly, if it does not, we will see that 15 percent will keep her on track and that she will be able to replace her income in retirement.
Now that we are saving, let's look at debt. When should we pay down the debt? How much should we pay down? How does the debt fit into the rest of the Launch plan?
If the after-tax interest expense on the student debt is over 8 percent, then I want you to reduce it as quickly as possible. For example, if some of your student debt hit your credit card, pay that off. While I want you to pay it off quickly, have cash for an emergency first.
If the after-tax cost of debt is between 5 percent and 8 percent, then I suggest once you eliminate oppressive debt, around 30 percent of your savings should go toward reducing the student debt and around 70 percent toward filling up the buckets in order in the Launch phase.
If the after-tax interest expense of your student debt is under 5 percent, then don't pay more than the minimum payment until you build up your checking, savings, and retirement accounts and be sure you are taking advantage of an employer match (if you are lucky to have one).
The only exception to these guides would be if for some reason the math falls below the minimum payment due. You always need to make the minimum payment. Also, I want to be sure you are taking advantage of your employer match. For most people, they should make the minimum payment on their student debt, take advantage of their employer match (nothing more), and build up cash reserves. Table 3.6 summarizes these ideas.
Table 3.6 Not All Student Debt Is Equal
After-Tax Rate | Goal |
>8% | Pay off quickly—especially if you have a cash reserve. Pay off quickly but balance with building up cash if your cash reserve is low. |
5% to 8% | Pay off in a balanced approach. |
<5% | Pay off as slowly as possible. |
Always Make the Minimum Payment! |
Let's look at a few examples. Remember Jason and Amy? Let's assume that in addition to their balance sheet from the previous example (p. 40) they also have $30,000 of student debt at 7 percent with a 10-year repayment plan. Their required monthly payment would be about $350. I would encourage Jason and Amy to always make the minimum payment of $350 on their student debt and to make the 3 percent contribution to their retirement plan to get the match. All additional savings should go to pay off their credit card debt.
Remember, Jason and Amy are saving at a rate of 12 percent. Once their credit card has been paid off, I suggest they keep making the 3 percent savings to their retirement plan. With the remaining 9 percent, they have about $8,500 per year of additional money directed toward savings. I would direct about $2,500 toward student debt and about $6,000 toward building up cash.
If Jason and Amy have a higher rate for their student debt, I would suggest they pay it off more quickly, perhaps directing 80 percent or more of the savings to reducing the debt.
If Jason and Amy have a lower interest rate, under 5 percent, I would deprioritize paying down the debt. In this case, I would encourage them to just make the minimum payment of $350 per month and to move to the Independence phase once they fill the buckets from the Launch phase.
You might note that (1) the pretax and post-tax savings of Jason and Amy may not be apples to apples and (2) I said they could count the principal payment toward their savings rates. If you are the type of person that is asking these questions, then good for you! These guide posts should serve as wide markers in the channel and you are prepared to steer your own course. If you are not into this level of detail, then hopefully the beacons serve as targets for which you can aim.
When you're in the Launch phase, I think you should strongly consider renting. Home ownership presents too much risk relative to your resources. Until your net worth is more than 50 percent of your annual income, I strongly advise you to wait to buy a house or make any major purchases.
If you already own a home but your net worth is less than 50 percent of your annual income, you will find value in jumping to the charts in the Independence phase. The only exceptions to my preference for renting include:
For example, if you are in a small metropolitan market, enjoy doing home improvement projects, and anticipate you will be in the home for more than five years, then it could make sense to own. If you live in a major metropolitan market, do not like doing home improvement projects, and anticipate being in the property for less than five years, the data will likely lean heavily toward renting.
People who purchase or already own a home during this phase tend to believe:
Our society encourages too many people to buy homes too early in life because they believe home ownership is a path to financial freedom. My recommendation for you and your family is that until you have no oppressive debt and savings equal to at least 50 percent of your income, home ownership is too risky and should generally be off the table.
People are so quick to want to buy because they think they are wasting money on rent. There are two problems with this:
From a big picture, instead of thinking that renting is wasting money on rent, consider thinking that buying is wasting money on interest expense and taxes and taking more risk. It is simply too early for you to take on the risk of homeownership. For more detail on why the concept of “wasting money on rent” simply isn't true see the Resource Guide.
If you own a house and either have oppressive debt or have not built up cash reserves or retirement savings, immediately deemphasize paying down your mortgage and focus on the following:4
Focus on the “insurance value” of liquidity. If you pay down more money on your house, it will not change the value of your house. You need more liquidity to ride out a storm, not more equity in your home. You also do not have enough retirement assets to be on track. Paying down the house is much less important than building up assets and liquidity.
If you do not have a match from your employer, you may want to consider the following:
For example, if you make $100,000 and are saving 10 percent or $10,000 a year and you do not have a match from your employer. I suggest directing $4,000 (or 40 percent) toward your retirement accounts and $6,000 or (60 percent) toward your cash and checking. Continue at these ratios until you build up a one-month reserve in retirement and a three-month reserve in your savings. When you hit the one-month goal in retirement start directing all of it toward building up your savings.
When you graduate from the Launch phase you have no oppressive debt, the equivalent of three month's income in savings, and one month in retirement. In the Independence phase your net worth is more than 50 percent of your annual income and less than two times your gross annual pretax income. We will begin the same way as we did in the Launch phase, but we will consider three scenarios: You do not own a house, you would like to buy a house, you already own a house. Start by doing the following:
Continuing to expand on the same framework we used in the Launch phase we get the following steps:
Meet Steve and Kevin. They rent and plan to continue renting for a while. They make $90,000 a year and save $15,000 each year. They have $15,000 in checking, $5,000 in savings, $75,000 in retirement, and $25,000 in some mutual funds. They recently went on a trip and are carrying $5,000 on their credit card but want to pay it off from savings over the next couple of months. Table 3.7 provides a sketch of where they are and of what a balanced path could look like with these goals. With their annual income of $90,000, their monthly income to use for the table is $7,500.
Table 3.7 A Sample Balanced Path—Independence, No House
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where You Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | $ 0 | $ 5,000 | $ 5,000 |
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | $22,500 | $15,000 | –$ 7,500 |
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | $22,500 | $ 5,000 | –$17,500 |
Retirement investing | Monthly income × 6 | $45,000 | $75,000 | $30,000 |
Big life changes | Monthly income × 9 | $67,500 | $25,000 | –$42,500 |
Table 3.8 A Blank Balanced Path Worksheet—Phase 2: Independence, No House
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where You Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | 0 | ||
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | |||
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | |||
Retirement investing | Monthly income × 6 | |||
Big life changes | Monthly income × 9 |
I would suggest that Steve and Kevin need to eliminate that credit card debt quickly. They are ahead on retirement and behind in building up their cash reserves and big life changes bucket. Therefore, I would encourage them to first eliminate the credit card debt, deemphasize retirement savings (but always be sure they are taking full advantage of their employer's match), build up checking, build up savings, and then build up their big life changes bucket.
Table 3.8 provides a tool to sketch out what a balanced path could look like with these goals. Feel free to combine checking and savings into one bucket.
Brandon and Teresa are in the Independence phase and want to buy a house. They make $60,000, or $5,000 per month. They have:
That equals $105,000 net worth.
Let's assume they want to buy a $240,000 house. In this example, their income is approximately equal to the median income and their home purchase is approximately equal to the average (median) home purchase price.5 If Brandon and Teresa use their down payment savings of $45,000, they need a mortgage for $195,000.
Table 3.9 shows what Brandon and Teresa's financial life could look like.
Table 3.9 A Balanced Path Worksheet—Phase 2: Independence, Buying a House
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where They Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | $ 0 | $ 0 | $0 |
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 15,000 | $ 15,000 | $0 |
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 15,000 | $ 15,000 | $0 |
Retirement investments | Monthly income × 6 | $ 30,000 | $ 30,000 | $0 |
House equity (you put the money down on the house) | Monthly income × 9 | $ 45,000 | $ 45,000 | $0 |
Equity in long-term investments (house and retirement) | Monthly income × 15 | $ 75,000 | $ 75,000 | $0 |
Net worth | Monthly income × 21 | $105,000 | $105,000 | $0 |
Mortgage | Monthly income × 39 | $195,000 | $195,000 | $0 |
Total assets | Monthly income × 60 | $300,000 | $300,000 | $0 |
Note the $195,000 mortgage divided by the $240,000 purchase price equals 81 percent loan-to-value. We will get into more detail on mortgages later, but many loans require a 20 percent down payment. If Brandon and Teresa have to dip into their savings to get the mortgage to 80 percent, that's fine. It is okay to dip into your savings from time to time; that's what it's there for. At the same time, if you use that reserve, it is essential you immediately build it back up to get back in balance.
Recall our notes on calculating your net worth. Table 3.10 shows how buying the house changes both sides of Brandon and Teresa's balance sheet.
Table 3.10 Balance Sheet after Home Purchase
Assets | Amount | Liabilities | Amount |
Checking account | $15,000 | Oppressive debt | $ 0 |
Savings account | $15,000 | ||
Retirement investments | $30,000 | ||
Home | $240,000 | Mortgage | $195,000 |
Total assets | $300,000 | Total liabilities | $195,000 |
Net worth | $105,000 |
Notice the debt ratio is $195,000/$300,000 or 65 percent. This level of debt is too high long term and needs to be reduced. Long term, I would like to see their debt ratio closer to 35 percent and falling. There are two ways for Brandon and Teresa to reduce their debt ratio: Grow assets or pay down debt. At this point in their life, the best thing for Brandon and Teresa is to focus on growing their assets, not on paying down this low-cost, working debt.
Bryan and Kate are married with dual incomes, have no kids, and live in Chicago. They are in their late 30s and have been renting since college. They make $180,000, or $15,000 per month, and would like to move into a house and start a family. Table 3.11 shows what their financial picture looks like.
Table 3.11 Dual Income, No Kids Ready to Buy a Home
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where They Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | $ 0 | $ 0 | $ 0 |
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 45,000 | $ 50,000 | $ 5,000 |
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 45,000 | $ 50,000 | $ 5,000 |
Retirement savings | Monthly income × 6 | $ 90,000 | $100,000 | $10,000 |
Big life changes/House savings | Monthly income × 9 | $135,000 | $150,000 | $15,000 |
Net worth | Monthly income × 21 | $315,000 | $350,000 | $35,000 |
Bryan and Kate are following a balanced path, so how much home might they consider? For now, I want to focus on the balance between assets and liabilities and income, independent of interest rates. If Bryan and Kate purchase a house worth $750,000, their assets would be $950,000 and their liabilities would be $600,000, as shown in Table 3.12.
Table 3.12 Dual Income No Kids after Purchasing a Home
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where They Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | $ 0 | $ 0 | $ 0 |
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 45,000 | $ 50,000 | $ 5,000 |
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | $ 45,000 | $ 50,000 | $ 5,000 |
Retirement savings | Monthly income × 6 | $ 90,000 | $ 100,000 | $ 10,000 |
House equity (you put the money down on the house) | Monthly income × 9 | $ 135,000 | $ 150,000 | $ 15,000 |
Equity in long-term investments (house and retirement) | Monthly income × 15 | $ 225,000 | $ 250,000 | $ 25,000 |
Net worth | Monthly income × 21 | $ 315,000 | $ 350,000 | $ 35,000 |
Mortgage | Monthly income × 39 | $(585,000) | $(600,000) | $(15,000) |
Total assets | Monthly income × 60 | $ 900,000 | $ 950,000 | $ 50,000 |
As we did in Phase 1, use Table 3.13 to compare where you are to what a balanced path might look like with these goals. As a reminder, start by filling in the answers to the suggested balanced path. Then fill in where you are, starting at the top and working down. The gap is the difference between where you are and what a balanced path represents. This can give you a framework to consider, discuss, and apply to your personal situation.
Table 3.13 A Blank Balanced Path Worksheet—Phase 2: Independence, with a House
Goal/Bucket | Formula | A Balanced Path | Where You Are | Gap |
No oppressive debt (No debt at a rate over 10 percent) | 0 | 0 | ||
Cash reserve, checking account | Monthly income × 3 | |||
Cash reserve, savings account | Monthly income × 3 | |||
Retirement savings | Monthly income × 6 | |||
House equity | Monthly income × 9 | |||
Net worth | Monthly income × 21 | |||
Mortgage | Monthly income × 39 | |||
Total assets | Monthly income × 60 |
If you already own a house, the same concept applies. Fill out Table 3.13 and look at where you are relative to the recommended areas.
If your mortgage is under your monthly income × 39, that is OK, but I suggest you deemphasize paying down any more against your mortgage. Instead, money should go to building up the other areas such as cash, retirement savings, and the big life changes account. At this point, you still have many more changes to come and nothing helps more than having money at the ready.
If your mortgage is higher than your monthly income × 39, then we need to check in with the other categories. If any other area is low, meaning it is under the suggested balanced path, then I suggest you build up those areas before you work toward paying down your mortgage. This is controversial. The “debt is bad” camp will tell you to reduce your debt by paying it down. My point is to reduce your debt ratio by building assets. In this phase of L.I.F.E., independent of your age, you need more assets, not less working debt.
Always remember, you can change your net worth by paying down debt or by building up assets. To be clear, I would rather that you direct future savings to the other categories until they are close to full/accomplishing their goals. I also would consider the list to be a prioritized list. I suggest you first build up your checking and savings and then your retirement. By the time you hit a net worth of 21 × your monthly income, you are ready to start to look at moving into the next phase.
If any other number is significantly out of line from the target, you want to deemphasize adding to that bucket and build up everything else around it so you're closer to balance.
I want to hammer home a few important points as we are still building our long-term foundation. Table 3.14 highlights a few of the differences between what so many people do and my specific recommendation.
Table 3.14 Recommendations for Dealing with Debt
Many People… | My Recommendation |
Have some oppressive debt | Get rid of it! |
Do not have a three-month reserve in checking | Build up to it. It is okay to have debt and cash. |
Do not have a three-month reserve in savings | Build up to it. You need reserves to get you through hard times. |
Dramatically over- or undersave for retirement | Embrace a balanced approach early and keep the balance throughout your life. |
Race to pay down debt | Consider not paying down working debt during this phase. Your net worth is still under twice your assets. Your debt ratio will fall by building up assets or by paying down debt. Your top priority is to build assets. |
Congratulations—if you are under 50 and you clear the Independence phase, saving at a rate of at least 15 percent, then it is likely that your net worth is not only near the top 40 percent of all Americans, but you are also likely to be on track for retirement.6
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