Around and About: Traveling within China

Traveling within the vast country of China can be a little trickier than getting to China. China’s transportation infrastructure is being built at a frantic pace. New airports, high-speed trains, and new expressways are always popping up. (China had no expressways until the late 1980s.) Sometimes your travels in China go really well — and sometimes they don’t.

Although getting around China by yourself is possible, the language barrier makes it somewhat difficult. Outside of the major cities, English isn’t very common. Even within major cities, don’t expect taxi drivers to understand English.

Many visitors to China rely on their local Chinese business contacts to help them get around. Using an interpreter can also help you with travel arrangements. (For more information on using an interpreter, go to Chapter 2.) After you’ve traveled to China a few times and have experienced the transportation systems, getting around shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

For information on paying for transportation, see the upcoming sections titled “Considering a travel card” and “Finding money.”

A little help from Chinese travel agents

For planning travel within China, including making hotel reservations, using a reliable travel agent that’s based in China is best. Intra-China airfares are usually lower when purchased in China, and travel agents based outside of China often use China-based travel agencies to book hotels and tours in China, anyway.

Many travel agents are in China, but one of the biggest is China International Travel Service (www.cits.net). If you have somebody in China who can make payment and take delivery of air tickets or hotel vouchers, you can use the Chinese travel portals eLong (www.elong.net) or Ctrip (english.ctrip.com). Both offer English sites. For arranging business and higher-end personal services in Shanghai and other major cities, Black Card Life (www.blackcardlife.com) is a good bet.


Taking flight in the Middle Kingdom

China’s domestic airlines serve approximately 80 Chinese cities. Air China alone has over 240 domestic routes, and more routes and services are being added. China’s local airlines have purchased a newer fleet of European- and American-built airplanes. Generally, foreign business visitors get around China pretty easily using the local Chinese air carriers. However, the quality of some domestic airports isn’t as high as that of the international ones.

The airport tax is 50 RMB for domestic flights. The domestic flight fee is labeled as an “Airport Construction Fee” and is included in the sale of all plane tickets.

Taxiing

Taxis are the best way to get around China’s cities without the hassle of packing yourself in amongst subway or bus commuters. The cabs are usually reasonably clean and of varying comfort, and tipping isn’t expected. Some taxis are air conditioned and others are not. But when you really need one, you take what you can get!

Taxis technically aren’t allowed to stop except in designated areas, but most taxis rarely follow the rules. Hotels and large commercial buildings generally have a taxi stand where people wait in line for the next available taxi. Outside such common places, you hail a taxi by holding your arm outstretched and parallel to the ground. Needless to say, competition for taxis is common in the large cities in China.

Here are some points to remember about taxi travel:

Many taxi drivers in major cities don’t originally hail from those cities, so they may not know their way around well. Unfortunately, they don’t always tell you this before driving! Always have a mobile phone with you in case the driver gets lost.
Make sure to have your destination written in Chinese for your driver, or at least have a printed copy of the name and address of the hotel or business you’re visiting.
Opt for one of the larger taxi fleets, which generally have better service. In Shanghai, the larger taxi companies go by colors: yellow, turquoise, light green, white, and blue.
Use only taxis that have meters.
The taxis seem to disappear in rain or extreme heat. Picking up a taxi at the hotel is an easy method — the hotel doorman can tell the driver where you need to go.
Don’t be surprised when you find a lot of traffic and congestion in most Chinese cities. You need to plan your time carefully to make sure you arrive at your appointments on time.
Taxis don’t accept credit cards, so you have to pay in cash or with your transportation card (see “Considering a travel card,” later in this chapter).
Always get a receipt from the driver. Getting a receipt is especially useful if you happen to forget your belongings in a taxi.

Taking the subways

For the first-time visitor or the infrequent visitor to China, taking on the busy subway system probably isn’t a good idea. But if you’re game, using the subway, or Metro, can be a great, cheap way to get around and explore. Many of the large Chinese cities have existing subways that continue to expand, and about a dozen other cities are planning or building new subways. For example, Shanghai’s subway can whisk you from the financial district in Pudong to the Bund in just a few minutes. And the signs are in English, too. However, the stops aren’t the most convenient for business visitors. Still, you can take the subway to the closest stop and then take a cab to your final destination, avoiding the crazy traffic jams that are part of modern daily life in China.

To use the Metro in most cities, you need to purchase a single-journey ticket or transportation card at the Metro station. Most cards can be refilled at both stations and various merchants, such as convenience stores. The fare for a subway ride depends on your destination, with fares ranging from 3 to 5 RMB. Be sure to hang onto your card after you get on the train — you need to put it in the machine in order to exit the station.

You could watch three trains pass by before one has room for you to get on, so don’t be afraid to push a little bit to get a spot on the train! Some people may push onto the train before waiting for people to get off. Avoiding subways around rush hour can save you some of this hassle.

Busing around

Although you don’t see too many foreigners on buses, these vehicles can be a reliable source of transportation. Beijing alone has more than 700 bus routes. However, taking buses in China is not for the fainthearted. Even the locals can get confused about which buses go where. Still, the newer, climate-controlled busses are worth a try if you’re adventurous.

The bus fare in Beijing depends on your destination, as well as the vehicle itself (the nicer the bus, the more expensive the ride). For an air-conditioned bus, the trip costs 2 RMB for less than 10 kilometers (6.25 miles) and another 2 RMB per additional 10 kilometers. If you don’t get air-conditioning, the cost is 1 RMB per 10 kilometers.

When you get on the bus, you don’t pay as you board. Instead, a bus attendant comes to you, asks where you’re going, and tells you the fee. Clearly writing down your destination to show the attendant is a good idea. After paying the fare, the attendant usually gives you a receipt. Be sure to pay attention to the bus stops and ring the bell before yours so you can get out.

In Shanghai, the fare doesn’t depend on distance. Instead, either you touch your transportation card to the reader by the driver’s seat (see the upcoming “Considering a travel card” section) or an attendant comes to you after you’ve boarded to collect the set fare. As in Beijing, prices are slightly more expensive for air-conditioning.

Riding the rails to and fro

China’s extensive rail system links most of the country. It’s upgrading rapidly and even includes some high-speed trains, similar to those in Europe and Japan. Depending on the type of train, riding the rails may or may not be a good way to travel between cities.

You need to purchase tickets in advance, which your hotel should be able to arrange for you. Ticket prices vary by route and type of train — they’re quite affordable, though. Most trains have a “soft class,” which is highly recommended over “hard class.”

Avoid taking trains around the week-long holidays (January/February, May, and October) because the trains are so jammed with people that passengers stand in hard class for up to 36 hours at a time!

Considering a travel card

In Shanghai, the Shanghai Public Transportation Card (SPTC) gives you easy access to the buses, Metro, ferries, taxis, and Airport Maglev. You can purchase a card at Metro stations. Besides being a convenient touch card, the SPTC also allows you to take an overdraft if you run out of money on your card. Taxis don’t provide receipts when you use the card, because you receive a receipt when purchasing the card.

Watch out for taxi drivers who give back another card without much money on it. You may want to mark your card in a way that you can easily identify it, even when you’re in a dark cab.

The Standard card has a refundable deposit of 30 RMB; other cards can’t be refunded, but a Mini card has a lower deposit (20 RMB). The cards can be reloaded in multiples of 10 RMB at deposit stations throughout Shanghai or in multiples of 50 RMB in many local Metro stations. The balance is noted every time you scan through an entry/exit at a Metro station.

Hong Kong’s Octopus card is good not only for paying for public transportation but also for payment at convenience stores, supermarkets, fast-food restaurants, and more. After purchasing the card at an MTR (Mass Transit Railway) station, you can refill it at an MTR station or at a merchant that accepts the Octopus as payment. The most overdraft an Octopus card will take is HK$35 (US$4.50). An adult Octopus card costs HK$150 (US$19.20).

Beijing has a Yikatong card (formally known as the Beijing Municipal Administration and Communications Card) that you can use for public transportation. The system was recently expanded and continues to grow. You can purchase bus, subway, and combined bus/subway cards for a monthly fee.

If you’re in Guangzhou, get a Yang Cheng Tong card for the bus, Metro, taxis, and ferries. A standard card costs 80 RMB.

Shenzhen’s card — the Shenzhen Transcard — works for the Shenzhen Metro and buses.

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