Index
A
acetic acid. See also vinegar
generating sour tastes in food, 72
hard water and, 240–241
pungent smell of, 93
sourdough starter, 272
yeast production of, 264
Achatz, Grant, 392
acid hydrolysis, 197
acidity of foods
baking powder and, 286
chemical reactions and, 17, 45, 47
cooking approaches, 207
egg white foams and, 291
FAT TOM acronym, 175
food safety and, 177
PROP/PTC tasters and, 61
sour taste receptors and, 72
acid neutralization, 51
Acmella oleracea, 79
Acree, Terry, 95
actin
about, 164–165
denaturing, 138, 164, 197, 332, 334
sous vide cooking and, 321, 332, 334
activation energy, 214
adenosine triphosphate (ATP), 164
adhesion promoter, 45
aflatoxins, 434
African cuisines
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
mingled with other cultures, 22
miracle berries and, 71
rice porridge, 22
spicy/hot taste, 79
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
agar, 423–425
Chocolate Panna Cotta, 424
Clarified Lime Juice, 425
air bubbles
foamed foods and, 318
removing, 317
air generation, 235–303
biological leaveners, 262–272
chemical leaveners, 273–288
gluten and, 246–250
key variables in baking, 236–238
mechanical leaveners, 17, 289–301
Albufera Sauce, 106
alcohol
beer, 262
Chocolate Port Cake, 295
in cooking, 99
edible martini, 319
as food additive, 399
Poached Pears, 210
Vanilla Extract, 400
Vodka Sauce, 107
White Wine and Cheese Sauce, 298
aldehydes, 91
Alexander, Christopher, 27
allicin, 217
alliin, 217
alliinase, 217
alloyed steels, 41
almond milk, 349
alternative reaction pathway, 432
altitude cooking tips, 238
aluminum, thermal conductivity of, 46–47
Amanita mushroom, 434
American Society for Testing and Materials, 93–94
America’s Test Kitchen, 51, 231
amino acids
Maillard reaction and, 213
protein denaturation and, 138
umami and, 77
ammonium chloride, 244
Amoore, J. E., 93
amphotericity, 274
amylase, 241
amylopectin, 206
anions, defined, 383
Anisakis simplex, 183
anti-griddle, 366
antisugar, 393
appetizers and sides
Baked Goat Cheese with Almonds and Honey, 31
Broiled Belgian Endive, 75
cooking artichokes, 70
Flatbreads, 253
Grilled Summer Vegetables, 211
Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, 211
Grilled Vegetables, 211
Mac ‘n Cheese, 105
Puff Pastry Squares or Twists, 31
Quick-Steamed Asparagus, 208
Roasted Glazed Carrots with Red Onions, 230
Roasted Green Olives, 31
Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, 212
Salmon Gravlax, 385
Sautéed Greens with Sesame Seeds, 209
Seeded Crackers, 253
Skillet-Fried Potatoes, 216
apples
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
Mock Apple Pie, 96–97
apricots, storage tips, 119
Arn, Heinrich, 95
Arnold, Dave, 319, 358–359, 425
arrack (alcoholic drink), 360
arrowroot, 409–411
artichokes
cooking, 70
pairing difficulty with wine, 71
Asian cuisines
alcoholic drinks, 360
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
learning flavors from, 133
rice porridge, 22
spicy/hot taste and. See spicy/hot (taste)
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
asparagus
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
Quick-Steamed Asparagus, 208
storage tips, 120
aspartame, 69
aspartate (amino acid), 76
Aspergillus, 434–435
Aspergillus oryzae, 435
astringency, 79
Atlas of Odor Character Profiles, 93–94, 127
atoms, defined, 382
ATP (adenosine triphosphate), 164
Aurora Sauce, 106
autoignition point (fats), 153
avocados, storage tips, 119
Axel, Richard, 89
Ayurvedic practices, 80
B
Bacillus cereus
danger zone rule and, 171
FAT TOM acronym and, 177
survival temperature for, 177, 325
toxins produced by, 173
bacon
Bacon-Wrapped Scallops, 437
Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Lardons, 75
bacteria
as biological leavener, 272
carbon knives and, 41
categories of, 175
converting cis fats to trans fats, 151
count required, 179
danger zone rule, 170–186
dishwashers and, 44
eggs and, 191
foodborne illness and, 170–186
freezing foods and, 186
sous vide cooking and, 320, 322, 325
surface contamination, 169
survival temperatures, 138, 170, 177, 325
thermal death time, 172
vacuum sealing and, 320
yogurt and, 73
bakers (cooking type)
characteristics of, 8
self-test, 9
baker’s yeast, 262
baking, 235–303
acidity of berries, 17
biological leaveners, 262–272
chemical leaveners, 17, 51–52, 207, 273–288
convection method and, 143, 145
error tolerances in, 258
gluten and, 246–250
heat shields, 144
humidity affecting, 142
ingredients at room temperature, 17
Lahey on, 260–261
mechanical leaveners, 17, 289–301
pastry chefs and, 221–223, 302–303
Pie Dough, 258–259
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
power of steam in, 236–238
temperatures for reactions, 138, 223
tips for altitude, 238
water chemistry and, 240–242
weighing ingredients, 50
with butter, 155
baking powder, 286–288
making from baking soda, 286
Ried on, 52
tips for altitude, 238
baking soda, 273–285
acidity of berries and, 17
acid neutralization of, 51, 207
alkaline water and, 242
as food additive, 377
making baking powder from, 286
tips for altitude, 238
Baklava, Pistachio Chocolate, 256
Baldwin, Douglas, 327–329
bananas, storage tips, 119
Barbecue Ribs, Oven-Cooked, 405
Barrett, Ann, 412–413
Basic White Stock, 350
Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
Bayou Sauce, 105
bean and lentil dishes
Khichdi, 311
Lemon Lentil Soup, 19
pressure cooking, 309
Smoked Paprika, Chickpea, and Cilantro Chicken, 28
Winter White Bean and Garlic Soup, 116
Béarnaise Sauce, 108
Béchamel Sauce, 105
Beef Steak Tips, 335
beer
filtering with isinglass, 349
foams from, 391
yeast for, 262
Beet Salad, 121
Belgian Endive, Broiled, 75
Belgian Meatballs, 185
Belitz, H.-D., 123–124
benzaldehyde, 97
benzoate, 384
Bercy Sauce, 106
berries
acidity of, 17
freezing, 365
miracle, 71
storage tips for, 119–120
beurre monté, 322
binders, 164
biological leaveners, 262–272
bacteria, 272
tips for altitude, 238
yeast, 262–271
bitter (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 74
confusing with sour taste, 74
genetic taste differences, 61, 65, 74
Lancaster on, 232
neutralizing with salt, 56
salt substitutes and, 64
sugar substitutes and, 69
taste adaptation and, 60
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
Bittman, Mark, 260
blackberries, storage tips, 120
blooming
in chocolate, 158–159
in spices, 399
Bloom, Oscar, 381
blueberries, storage tips, 119
Blumenthal, Heston, 128
boiling point of water
altitude and, 238
pressure cooking and, 306, 308–309
bone digester, 309
boning knife, 42
Bordelaise Sauce, 109
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, 18
Boston Globe Magazine, 51–52
Botox, 175
botulism, 402
BPA (bisphenol A), 323
Brabender Units, 249
Bread-and-Butter Quick Pickles, 388–389
bread knife, 37
Bread Pudding, 192
breads
Bread Pudding, 192
Flatbreads, 253
freezing, 265
friendship bread, 262–263
Golden Corn Cake, 18
Lahey on, 260–261
No-Knead Bread, 261
No-Knead Pizza Dough, 271
Popovers, 239
salt-rising, 272
Scones, 288
Seeded Crackers, 253
Simple Bread, 264–265
Sourdough Starter, 272
yeast in, 264–268
breakfast
Buttermilk Pancakes, 278
Congee, 22
Crepes, 251
Foamed Scrambled Eggs, 315
French Toast, 192
Hard-Cooked Eggs, Easy-to-Peel, 193
Internet Average Pancakes, 10
Oat and Egg White Frittata with Fruit, 13
Oven-Roasted Eggs, 194
Poached Eggs, 193
Scones, 288
Simple Ginger Syrup, 70
Skillet-Fried Potatoes, 216
Slow Scrambled Eggs, 194
Steel-Cut Oats, 12
Yeast Waffles, 267
breaking knife, 42
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 76
brines
about, 386
flash pickling, 319
Japanese-style Brine, 62
Lancaster on, 232
tenderizing meats, 165
Brisket, 48-Hour, 336
broccoli, storage tips, 120
broiling
Broiled Belgian Endive, 75
Butterflied Roast Chicken, 218–219
as radiant heat, 145
bromelain, 165
Brown, Alton, 219–220
Brown, Amy, 344–345
Brown Butter, Powdered, 417
Brownies in an Orange, 32
browning reactions. See caramelization; Maillard reaction
Brown Sauce, 109
brown sugar, 69
brunoise cuts of meat, 174
Bruschetta, Tomato, Herb, and Squid, 199
Buck, Linda, 89
buckwheat
Crepes, 251
gluten sensitivies and, 246
butcher’s steel, 41–42
butter
baking with, 155
browned, 156
error tolerances in measuring, 258
herbed, 401–402
making, 154
melting point, 153
storing, 155
types of, 154–155
water whisked into, 322
Butter Cookies, 224–225
Buttermilk-Marinated Skirt Steak, 167
Buttermilk Pancakes, 278
Butternut Squash Soup, Fall, 118
Butternut Squash Soup, Vadouvan, 110
C
cabbage, storage tips, 120
cacao, 157
caffeine, 61
Cake Doughnuts, 345–346
cake flour, 252
cakes
Chocolate Cake, 30-Second, 316
Chocolate Cake, One-Bowl, 280–281
Chocolate Espresso Ganache Frosting, 281
Chocolate Port Cake, 295
optimal cake-cutting protocol, 296
Pumpkin Cake, 287
calcium
pectin and, 419
sodium alginate and, 427
vegetable tissue and, 338
calcium carbonate, 240–241
calibrating
freezers, 244–245
ovens, 35–36
caliciviruses, 175
camphoric odor, 93
Campylobacter, 178–179
Candied Orange Rind, 396
capacity (egg white foams), 290
capsaicin
Scoville scale measuring, 80
caramelization
Caramel Sauces, Wet and Dry, 228–229
Maillard reaction and, 215
starches and, 223
carbohydrates
cooking vegetables, 205–212
FAT TOM acronym and, 175
saccharides and, 254
carbonated drinks, 307
carbon dioxide, 237, 240–242, 313, 365
carbonic anhydrase 4 enzyme, 80
carbon knives, 41
Carême, Marie-Antonin, 104
carrots
Roasted Glazed Carrots with Red Onions, 230
storage tips, 120
carryover in cooking, 140
carvone, 91
cassoulet, 112
cast iron pans
pan searing and, 169
Reid on, 52
seasoning, 45
thermal conductivity of, 46–47
cations, 383
Cato the Elder, 382
CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention), 171
cellulose, 205
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), 171
centrifuges in the kitchen, 351–352, 359
cestodes, 183
Chantilly Cream, 301
charcoal, making, 404
cheese
Baked Goat Cheese with Almonds and Honey, 31
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
Fresh Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
Mac ‘n Cheese, 105
Mozzarella cheese, making, 433
Mozzarella Spheres, 427
Roasted Poblano and Cheddar Cheese Stuffed Pork Chops, 66–67
Summer Watermelon and Feta Cheese Salad, 85
White Wine and Cheese Sauce, 298
Wolfe on, 434–435
chef card, 446
chef’s knife, 37
Chef Watson, 129
chemical leaveners, 273–288
baking soda, 17, 51, 207, 273–285
tips for altitude, 238
chemical reactions
as function of time/temperature, 136–138
ingredients at room temperature, 17
rigor mortis, 162–163
temperatures of common, 138
chemical similarity method, 126–128
chemicals in foods. See food additives
chewy cookies, 282–285
Chez Panisse, 302
chicken
Butterflied Roast Chicken, 218–219
Chicken Kiev, 436
Chicken, Smoked Paprika, Chickpea, and Cilantro, 28
hold times for, 172
proteins in, 163
sous vide cooking, 332–333
Child, Julia
appeal of, 15
distaste for cilantro, 91
fear of cooking and, 14
kitchen organization and, 26
making French onion soup, 38
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 219
McGee on, 439
chill injury, 119
Chinese cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
learning flavors from, 133
rice porridge, 22
spicy/hot taste and. See spicy/hot (taste)
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
chinois, 349
Chiquart, Maistre, 20
chirality, 91
chloride ion, 64
chlorine, 241
chlorogenic acid, 71
chlorophyll, 207
chocolate
about, 157–160
blooming in, 158–159
Chocolate Bar, Bittersweet, 161
Chocolate Cake, 30-Second, 316
Chocolate Cake, One-Bowl, 280–281
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 284–285
Chocolate Espresso Ganache Frosting, 281
Chocolate Mousse, 301, 313, 315
Chocolate Panna Cotta, 424
Chocolate Port Cake, 295
Cocoa-Goldschläger Ice Cream, 364
couverture, 160
heap fermentation and, 435
ingredients similar to, 128
Peppermint Chocolate Mints, 81
Pistachio Chocolate Baklava, 256
seized, 159
sous vide cooking, 339
volatile compounds in, 90
white, 160
chromatography, 348
Chu, Michael, 19
cimeter steak knife, 42
Cinnamon Raisin Pumpkin Cake, 287–288
Cinnamon Snickerdoodles, 225
cis fats, 151
citronellyl valerate, 95
citrus. See also lemons and lemon juice
Brownies in an Orange, 32
Candied Orange Rind, 396
Citrus Marmalade, 396
Clarified Lime Juice, 425
storage tips, 120
Civille, Gail Vance, 132–133
cladded pots and pans, 47
classification systems, 93–94
Clostridium botulinum, 175, 386, 389
Clostridium perfringens, 272, 328
cloud point (fats), 153
CNC printer, 340
cocoa butter/fat, 152, 157, 158
Cocoa-Goldschläger Ice Cream, 364
Codex Alimentarius Commission, 378
Cognitive Cooking (Watson), 129
collagen
about, 164
denaturing, 148, 165, 195–204, 327
experiment, 204
isinglass and, 349
Lancaster on, 232
slow cooker and, 333
sous vide cooking and, 321
collard greens, storage tips, 120
colloids, 379–381
about, 379–380
continuous phase, 380
dispersed phase, 380
Marshmallows, 381
table of colloid types, 380
color contrast, 102
combi steamers, 236
commercial and industrial tools. See hardware in the kitchen
community-supported agriculture (CSA), 124–125
competitive (cooking style), 9
complex colloid, 380
compounds, 383
computational flavor inspiration, 125–128
condensation, 143, 236–237, 360
conduction (heat transfer), 142, 145, 322
Congee, 22–23
consommés
defined, 349
Drip-Filtered Consommé, 351
contaminants
BPA, 323
foodborne illnesses and, 170
industrial hardware and, 314, 359
on fruits and vegetables, 182, 200
continous phases (colloids), 380
convection (heat transfer)
conventional foods, 122–123
converting to metric, 11
co-occurence of ingredients, 125–126, 129
cook-chill cooking, 325
cook-hold cooking, 325
cookies
Butter Cookies, 224–225
caramelization and, 136–137
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 284–285
Cinnamon Snickerdoodles, 225
Coconut Macaroons, 294
crispy-chewy, 282–283
Gingerbread Cookies, 279
Meringue Cookies, 294
Oreo Cookies, 377
rates of reactions in, 226–227
Sugar Cookies, 224–225
cookie sheets, 144
cooking foods
with dry ice, 365–366
fear in the kitchen, 14–15
for one person, 28–29
for others, 30–33
heat shields, 144
high-heat cooking. See high-heat cooking
history of, 18–19
humidity affecting, 17, 142, 250, 373
key temperatures in, 148–233
Lancaster on, 231–233
with liquid nitrogen, 361–366
low-heat cooking. See sous vide cooking
methods of, 141–146
most important variable in, 137
Pépin on, 24–25
using pressure cooking. See presssure cooking
safe undercooked foods, 184
sous vide. See sous vide cooking
time and temperature when, 135–233
tips for altitude, 238
with alcohol, 99
cooking styles
conflicts between, 8
self-test, 9
understanding, 8
Cooking: The Quintessential Art (This), 391
cooks (cooking type)
characteristics of, 8
self-test, 9
Wansink on, 8
cooling effect (menthol), 79
copper bowls, 291
coq au vin, 112
corn, gluten sensitivies and, 246
cornstarch
as food additive, 377, 409–411
crispy chewy cookies and, 283–284
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
making molds, 341
Quick Pan Gravy, 413
corn syrup, 69
countertops, 3 x 4 rule of, 27
couverture chocolate, 160
Crackers, Seeded, 253
cream whippers, 313–316
about, 313–314
pressure cooking and, 314
usage tips, 314
whipper fizzy fruit, 314
Crème Anglaise, 192
Crème Brûlée, Quinn’s, 368
Crepes, 251
Crisco shortening, 151
crispy-chewy cookies, 282–285
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 284–285
science of, 282–283
Crispy Oven Kale Chips, 353
cross-contamination of foods
avoiding, 180–181
cutting boards and, 44
food allergies and, 446
raw meats and, 186
crosslinks
aging animals and, 198
mechanical agitation and, 249
crystallization, 356–357
CSA (community-supported agriculture), 124
cucumber, storage tips, 120
culinary mystery ingredient, 103
Cumin and Salt Seared Tuna, 169
curing fish, 386
curious (venn diagram), 1
curry powder, 110
Custard, Vanilla, 192
cutting boards, 44
cynarin, 71
D
dairy products
allergies to, 447
Bread Pudding, 192
carrageenan in, 422
Chocolate Panna Cotta, 424
Cocoa-Goldschläger Ice Cream, 364
Crème Anglaise, 192
fats in, 300
foodborne illnesses and, 171
Gelled Milk with Iota and Kappa Carrageenan, 422
pressure cookers and, 310
Quinn’s Crème Brûlée, 368
S’more Ice Cream, 405
Sour Cream, Homemade, 155
substitutions for allergies, 447
Vanilla Custard, 192
Yogurt, Homemade, 73
danger zone rule, 170–186, 325
Darwin Award, 362
dashi (stock), 77
de Botton, Alain, 15
decanting centrifuge, 347
dehydration (drying foods)
freeze-drying, 318
osmosis and, 386
Democritus, 58
denaturation. See protein denaturation
desmin, 164
desserts. See also cakes; cookies
Bread Pudding, 192
Brownies in an Orange, 32
Caramel Sauces, Wet and Dry, 228–229
Chocolate Bar, Bittersweet, 161
Chocolate Mousse, 301, 313, 315
Chocolate Panna Cotta, 424
Cocoa-Goldschläger Ice Cream, 364
Crème Anglaise, 192
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
Doughnut, 500-Pound, 344–346
French Meringue, 293
Fruit Soufflé, 299
Italian Meringue, 293
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
Mock Apple Pie, 96
Pie Dough, 258–259
Pistachio Chocolate Baklava, 256
Poached Pears, 210
Quinn’s Crème Brûlée, 368
Scones, 288
S’more Ice Cream, 405
Suger Bowls for Ice Cream, 342–343
Tiramisu, 19
Vanilla Custard, 192
Zabaglione, 298
dewar, defined, 362
dew point, 236
Dexter-Russell, 40–42
dextrin, 223
dextrose, 267
Diable Sauce, 109
diacetyl, 97
dietary restrictions, 30, 445–450
differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), 222, 230
digital probe thermometers, 35, 49, 183, 324
digital weight scales, 258
Dijon Sauce, 108
dinner parties, 30–33
dipole, 398
dishwasher, cooking in, 146, 326
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
dispersed phase (colloids), 380
dispersion of gas, 289
distillation process, 347, 360
2,4-dithiapentane, 97
divalent cation, 426
DNA fingerprinting, 178
doneness
heat transfer and, 139–141
temperatures required for, 166
dork (venn diagram), 1
Double-Crust Pie Dough, 259
doughnuts
500-Pound Doughnut, 344–346
Cake Doughnuts, 345–346
drinks
almond milk, 349
Simple Ginger Syrup for, 70
Sugar Swizzle Sticks, 356–357
yeast in, 262
Drip-Filtered Consommé, 351
dry aging meats, 165
dry heat methods, 141–142, 236
dry ice, 365–366
drying foods (dehydration)
freeze-drying, 318
osmosis and, 386
DSC (differential scanning calorimetry), 222, 230
Duck Confit, 200–201
Du fait de cuisine (Chiquart), 20
Duncker, Karl, 6
Duncker’s Candle Problem, 6–7
Dutched cocoa powder, 157
E
Early French Cookery (Scully), 20
E. coli
on chicken, 172
count required, 179
on cutting boards, 44
die off temperatures, 174
lethality of, 179
on meats, 355
probabilities of contracting, 171
time between ingestion and symptoms, 178
edamame, preparing, 78
Edman, Lenore, 341
eggs
about, 187
allergies to, 448
Bread Pudding, 192
cooking, 17, 142, 189–191, 358
cracking, 188
Crème Anglaise, 192
Foamed Scrambled Eggs, 315
food safety and, 174, 191, 293, 329
Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Lardons, 75
Hard-Cooked Eggs, Easy-to-Peel, 193
key temperatures for, 166, 187–194
Oven-Roasted Eggs, 194
parts of, 187–188
pasteurizing, 329
Poached Eggs, 193
Salad Lyonnaise, 75
sample weights, 194
Slow Scrambled Eggs, 194
sous vide cooking, 320–322, 329
Steak Tartare with Poached Egg, 174
steaming, 193
substitutions for allergies, 448
temperatures for doneness, 166
Vanilla Custard, 192
egg whites, 289–296
about, 188
beating, 439
copper bowls and, 291
Maillard reactions and, 214
as mechanical leaveners, 289–296
meringues, 293
Oat and Egg White Frittata with Fruit, 13
tips for altitude, 238
egg yolks, 297–299
about, 187–188
fatty acid profiles, 152
as mechanical leaveners, 297–299
protein temperature span for, 190
elasticity, 241
emulsions and emulsifiers
from beer, 391
Mayonnaise, 430–431
table of colloid types, 380
enantiomers, 91
endothermic reaction, 395
endowment effect, 102
energy, thermal, 46–47
enhanced cell-cell adhesion, 338
E numbers classification, 378–379, 397
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 45, 242
Environmental Working Group, 12
enzymes, 432–437
EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), 45, 242
equipment. See also kitchen equipment
Espagnole Sauce, 109
esters, 91
ethanol. See alcohol
ethereal odor, 93
ethyl butanoate, 97
ethylene gas, 119–120
ethyl hexanoate, 97
European Union, 122
Evans, Maureen, 19
evaporation
distillation and, 360
drying and, 352–353
making sea salt via, 65
rate of reaction, 353
exothermic reaction, 395
experiments. See labs (experiments)
exploration, inspiration by, 103–111
extinction, 100
F
Fahrenheit, Daniel, 244
Farmer, Fannie, 18
fats
in dairy products, 300
egg white foams and, 291–292
error tolerances in measuring, 258
gluten formation and, 249
key temperatures in, 148–161
in meats, 163
Powdered Brown Butter, 417
FAT TOM acronym, 175, 382, 384
fatty acids, 149–151
FDA (Food and Drug Administration)
on bittersweet chocolate, 161
on cooking chicken, 172
on curing fish, 386
on food additives, 376
food safety, 402
on freezer temperatures, 245
on handling fish, 184, 330–331
inspecting imports, 124
on pasteurizing eggs, 329
on salt concentrations, 386
screening for aflatoxins, 434
fear of failure, 14–15
feathers (burrs), 41
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
fermentation
hard water and, 241
heap, 435
sour taste and, 72
wild, 272
yeast and, 266
Feta Cheese (and Watermelon) Salad, 85
fire point (fats), 153
fish and seafood
allergies to, 448
Bacon-Wrapped Scallops, 437
collagen in, 197
curing, 386
environmentally sound, 115
Fish Tacos with Pickle and Strawberry Relish, 129
food safety and, 177, 180, 183–184, 330–331
key temperatures in cooking, 162–169
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
Pan-Seared Mussels with Butter and Shallots, 67
prepackaged, 331
proteins in, 162–169
Salmon Gravlax, 385
Salmon Poached in Olive Oil, 168
salt concentrations in, 386
Salt-Roasted Fish with Lemon and Herbs, 147
salt roasting, 147
Scallop Ceviche, 176
Seared Scallops, 220
sous vide cooking, 322, 329–331
storage tips, 186
substitutions for allergies, 448
temperatures for doneness, 166
Tomato, Herb, and Squid Bruschetta, 199
fixed function, 6–7
flash point (fats), 153
Flatbreads, 253
flavor and flavorings, 98–102, 397–399
about, 98–99
Civille on, 132–133
fats and oils, 148
inspiration by, 84
inspiration by exploration, 103–111
inspiration by seasonality, 112–124
inspiration, computational, 125–128
liquid smoke, 403–407
pleasure and, 87
regional/traditional method, 21
shopping for, 88
taste and smell producing, 56, 58
Wansink on, 101–102
flavor enhancers
about, 397
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
Savage on, 16
seasoning with, 56
Flavornet, 95
floral odor, 93
flour
as food additive, 377
gluten in, 246–250
maturing process, 252
measuring, 50
milling, 252
Quick Pan Gravy, 413
weighing, 49
wheat allergies and, 246
Flying Food Group, 95
foams
cakes relying on, 295
cream whippers and, 313
egg white, 290
Foamed Scrambled Eggs, 315
from beer, 391
Fruit Juice Foam, 431
low pressure and, 318
pressure cooking and, 310
stabilizing, 429
table of colloid types, 380
food additives, 375–439
about, 376–377
buying, 378
colloids, 379–381
emulsifiers, 429–431
E numbers classification, 378–379
enzymes, 432–437
flavorings, 397–407
gelling agents, 418–428
mixtures, 379–381
politics of, 376
preservatives. See preserving foods
salt. See salt
sugar. See sugar
texture and, 412–413
thickeners, 408–417
This on, 390–392
Food Additives Amendment (1958), 376
food allergies, 445–450
cooking around, 445–446
cooking for others and, 30
Lancaster on, 232
substitutions for, 446–450
Food and Drug Administration (FDA). See FDA
foodborne illness. See food safety
Food Chemistry (Belitz), 123, 390
food engineers, 412
Food Politics (Nestle), 376
food pornography, 179
food preferences, 30
food safety
bacteria and, 170–186
danger zone rule, 170–186, 325
drying foods, 353
experimentation and, 358–359
fish and, 177, 180, 183–184, 330–331
food additives and, 376
foodborne illness and, 180
infused oils, 402
parasites and, 183–184
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
Powell on, 178–179
sous vide cooking and, 325–329
Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS), 172, 180, 325
food sensitivity, 30
forged blades (knives), 37
freeze-dried foods, 318
freezers, calibrating, 244–245
freezing
bacteria and, 186
berries, 365
breads, 265
dough, 288
gelled liquids, 349
plant material with liquid nitrogen, 363
freezing point of water, 244–245, 306
French cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
French Meringue, 293
French Onion Soup, One-Hour, 38–39
Lebovitz on, 302–303
sauces and, 104
Sauce Tomate, 107
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
French Toast, 192
friendship bread, 262
Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Lardons, 75
Frosting, Chocolate Espresso Ganache, 281–282
fruit
Candied Orange Rind, 396
Citrus Marmalade, 396
cooking, 207
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
DIY roll-ups, 353
drying, 352
environmentally sound, 115
fizzy fruit, 365
food safety and, 182
Fruit Juice Foam, 431
Fruit Soufflé, 299
growing seasons chart, 113
Oat and Egg White Frittata with Fruit, 13
osmosis and, 392
pectin in, 418
Pickle and Strawbery Relish, 129
Poached Pears, 210
Preserved Lemons, 387
sous vide cooking, 337–338
sugar in, 68
Summer Watermelon and Feta Cheese Salad, 85
translucent, 317
whipper fizzy fruit, 314
frying pans, 45
FSIS (Food Safety and Inspection Service), 172, 180, 325
functional fixedness, 6–7
fungiform papillae, 86
furanone, 97
G
Gagnaire, Pierre, 391
Ganache Frosting, Chocolate Espresso, 281–282
Garcia Effect, 100
Garcia, John, 100
garlic
Garlic Bread, 217
storage tips, 120
Winter White Bean and Garlic Soup, 116
gastrointestinal distress, 171
Gazpacho Soup, Summertime, 117
geek thinking
defined, 6
Duncker’s Candle Problem, 6–7
functional fixedness and, 6–7
in kitchen, 7
learning how to cook and, 15
mental restructuring, 7
smart, 440–443
geek (venn diagram), 1
gelatin
about, 349
cooking vegetables and, 205–206
foaming and, 313
improving mouthfeel, 418
gels and gelling agents, 418–428
agar, 423–425
classifying, 418
filtration and, 349
Gelled Milk with Iota and Kappa Carrageenan, 422
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
making, 420
making molds, 340
sodium alginate, 426–427
starches, 205–212
table of colloid types, 380
typical composition, 411
generally recognized as safe (GRAS), 376, 393
Gingerbread Cookies, 279
Ginger Syrup, 70
giving (cooking style), 9
gliadin, 247–249, 254–255, 258
glucose
crystal formation inhibitor, 69
invertase enzyme and, 81
Maillard reaction and, 223, 309
sucrose inversion and, 221
glutamate (amino acid), 61, 76–77, 184
glutamine, 436
glutathione, 263
gluten
choosing flour wisely, 246–250
elasticity of, 241
hard water and, 241–242
Lancaster on, 232
making your own, 254–255
managing formation, 247–250
tips for altitude, 238
wheat allergies and, 246
glutenin, 247–249, 254–255, 258
glycerol, 148–150
Goat Cheese, Baked, with Almonds and Honey, 31
Golden Corn Cake, 18
Google Scholar search engine, 442
Gourmet Magazine, 103
grains
Congee, 23
gluten level of, 246–248
Lancaster on, 232
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
miraculin and, 71
granula, 12
GRAS (generally recognized as safe), 376, 393
Greek cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
Greek-style Marinade, 62
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
Green Olives, Roasted, 31
Greenspan, Eric, 344
grilling
as radiant heat, 145
Grilled Summer Vegetables, 211
Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, 211
Grilled Vegetables, 211
vegetables, 211
guanylate, 76
gustatory sense. See taste (gustatory sense)
Gustavson, Carl, 100
H
hackers, 253
half-and-half, 192
Hard-Cooked Eggs, Easy-to-Peel, 193
hardware in the kitchen
about, 305
Arnold on, 358–359
high-heat cooking, 367–371
high-pressure situations, 306–316
low-pressure tricks, 317–320
making molds, 340–346
Myhrvold on, 372–373
sous vide cooking, 207, 320–339
wet separations, 347–357
hard water, 240–241
Haugh, Raymond, 188
Haugh units, 188
healthy (cooking style), 9
heap fermentation, 435
heat gradient, 337
heat transfer
carryover and, 140
combined methods of, 145–146
doneness and, 139–141
experimenting with sources, 145–146
methods of, 141–146
oil and water, 142
pressure cooking and, 308
sous vide cooking and, 322
temperature gradients, 139–141
time/temperature rule of thumb, 136
helium, 142
Henry’s Law, 307
hepatitis A, 178
herbs
in butter, 401–402
Civille on, 132
drying, 352
Fresh Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
fresh versus dried, 99
Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, 212
Salt-Roasted Fish with Lemon and Herbs, 147
Smoked Paprika, Chickpea, and Cilantro Chicken, 28
storage tips, 119
substituting, 6
Tomato, Herb, and Squid Bruschetta, 199
volatile compounds and, 97
hexanal, 97
hexenal, 97
hexyl acetate, 97
hierarchy of needs (Maslow), 14
high-heat cooking
about, 367–369
cooking high-heat pizza, 370–371
high-heat ovens and, 305, 370–371
high-pressure situations, 306–316
about, 306–307
cream whippers, 313–316
popping popcorn, 307
pressure cooking. See pressure cooking
history of food, 18–19
Hollandaise Sauce, 108
homogenization process, 433
honey as preservative, 382
Hot Marshmallows, 415
hot spots (pots and pans), 46–47
hot (taste). See spicy/hot (taste)
hot-water-dip treatment, 174, 355
humidity
about, 307
affecting cooking, 17, 142, 250, 373
yeast and, 237
Hungarian Sauce, 106
hydration energy, 395
hydrocolloids, 428
hydrogenated fat, 151
hydrophobic proteins, 189, 289
I
IBM’s Chef Watson, 129
ice cream
Cocoa-Goldschläger Ice Cream, 364
Crème Anglaise in, 192
making with liquid nitrogen, 305, 361–364
making with salt and ice, 394–395
S’more Ice Cream, 405
Sugar Cone Bowls, 342–343
Ikeda, Kikunae, 76
Indian cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
Khichdi, 311
spicy/hot tastes, 59
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
individually quick frozen (IQF), 365
industrial tools. See commercial and industrial tools
infused oils, 401–402
ingredients
chemical similarity of, 126–128
choosing, 56
co-occurrence of, 125–126, 129
culinary mystery ingredient, 103
by culture, 111
flavor and, 56
inspiration by exploration, 103–111
inspiration by seasonality, 112–124
inspiration, computational, 125–128
isolating, 110
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
prepping, 11
at room temperature, 17
sifting dry, 275
using unfamiliar, 110
Walshin on, 110
weighing, 49–50
innovative (cooking style), 9, 21
inosinate, 76
inspiration
computational flavor, 125–128
by exploration, 103–111
by seasonality, 112–124
intermolecular bond, 398–399
Internet Archive, 20
Internet Average Pancakes, 10
ion channels, 64
ions, defined, 383
iota carrageenan, 421, 422–423
IQF (individually quick frozen), 365
Iron Chef (tv show), 387
isinglass, 349
isoamyl acetate, 97
isotopomers, 243
Italian cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
Italian Meringue, 293
Italian Tomato Sauce, 107
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
J
Jackson, James, 12
Jacques Pépin’s New Complete Techniques, 24
Japanese cuisine
dashi, 77
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
Japanese-style Brine, 62
Miso Soup, 77
preparing edamame, 78
savory taste and. See umami (taste)
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
Johnson, Samuel, 157
Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 390
Journal of Food Science, 390
Jung, Carolyn, 387
K
kale
Crispy Oven Kale Chips, 353
storage tips, 120
Kamozawa, Aki, 315
kappa carrageenan, 421–422
Kayser, Eric, 261
Kellogg, John, 12
Ketchup, 107
key temperatures in cooking, 148–233
85F/30C, 148–161
131F/55C, 138
136F/58C, 138
150F/65.5C, 138
212F/100C, 138
325F/163C, 138
350F/175C, 138
375F/190C, 138
about, 148
Khichdi, 311
kitchen equipment, 34–52. See also hardware in the kitchen
calibrating ovens, 35–36
cutting boards, 44
garlic presses, 48
kitchen scales, 49
kitchen shears, 48
knives, 37–43
Lancaster on, 232
Lebovitz on, 303
measuring cups and spoons, 51
pressure cookers, 49
Ried on, 51–52
silicone spatulas, 48
strainers, 51
thermometers, 49
tongs, 48
usage decisions, 34
kitchen organization, 34–52
calibrating ovens, 35–36
Child on, 26
counter layout, 27
kitchen equipment, 34–52
Ried on, 51–52
kitchen scales, 49
kitchen shears, 48
kneading (mechanical agitation), 249, 261
knives, 37–43
alloyed steels, 41
bacteria and, 41
basic skills, 37
“failure mode”, 37
forged blades, 37
heat treatment, 40–41
holding, 37
Lancaster on, 232
Raper on, 40–42
repurposing, 42
sharpening, 41–43
stamped blades, 37
types of, 37
Krugman, Paul, 441
Kurti, Nicholas, 390
L
labs (experiments)
A/B experiments, 21
baking soda reacting with itself, 276–277
calibrating freezers, 244–245
calibrating ovens, 35–36
collagan protein, 204
differences between taste and smell, 57
finding perfect cookie, 226–227
food safety and, 358–359
genetic taste differences, 82–83
making ice cream with salt and ice, 394–395
making liquid smoke, 406–407
making pectin, 420
making your own gluten, 254–255
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
sensing flavors, 130–131
separation via crystallization, 356–357
sous vide cooking, 321–322
This on experimentation, 392
lactisole, 393
Lahey, Jim, 260–261
Lancaster, Bridget, 231–233
Latin American cuisine, 63, 111
lattice energy, 395
lauric acid, 152
leaveners, 262–303
biological, 262–272
chemical, 17, 51–52, 207, 273–288
multiple, 297
Lebovitz, David, 302–303
leeks, storage tips, 120
Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier), 104
Leidenfrost effect, 365
lemons and lemon juice
balancing tastes with, 60
cleaning cutting boards, 44
as flavor enhancers, 56
Lemon Lentil Soup, 19
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
Lemons, Preserved, 387
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
Lentil Soup, Lemon, 19
Lersch, Martin, 428
lettuce and salad greens. See also salad dishes
Springtime Lettuce Soup, 116
storage tips, 120
Leucippus, 58
lignin, 205
lime juice
bacteria and, 176
Clarified Lime Juice, 425
Lindley, Michael, 393
Lindt, Rodolphe, 161
line structure, 148–149
linoleic acid, 152
lipids, 398
liquid nitrogen, 361–364
about, 361–363
dangers of, 361
making dusts, 363
making ice cream, 305, 361–364
oxygen and, 361
parasites and, 183
liquid smoke, 403–407
Listeria monocytogenes
canning technique and, 389
count required, 171
lethality of, 179
pH and, 385
survival temperatures, 181
time between ingestion and symptoms, 178
listeriosis, 171
lithium, 64
local foods, 122–124
log reductions, 173
low-heat cooking. See sous vide cooking
low-pressure tricks, 317–320. See also sous vide cooking
M
Mac ‘n Cheese, 105
Madison, Deborah, 29
magnesium in water, 240–241, 250
magnetic separation, 348
Maillard, Louis Camille, 213
Maillard reaction
about, 136
liquid water and, 237
pressure cooking and, 309
main dishes. See fish and seafood; meats; salad dishes; vegetarian main dishes
maker’s gratification, 19
malic acid, 72
Maltaise Sauce, 108
marinades and sauces
Albufera Sauce, 106
Aurora Sauce, 106
Bayou Sauce, 105
Béarnaise Sauce, 108
Béchamel Sauce, 105
Bercy Sauce, 106
Bordelaise Sauce, 109
Brown Sauce, 109
Buttermilk-Marinated Skirt Steak, 167
Caramel Sauces, Wet and Dry, 228–229
Diable Sauce, 109
Dijon Sauce, 108
Espagnole Sauce, 109
French cuisine and, 104
Greek-style Marinade, 62
Hollandaise Sauce, 108
Hungarian Sauce, 106
Ketchup, 107
Maltaise Sauce, 108
Mornay Sauce, 105
Mustard Sauce, 105
Noisette Sauce, 108
Pepper Sauce, 109
Piquante Sauce, 109
Poivrade Sauce, 109
Poulette Sauce, 106
Quick Pan Gravy, 413
Sauce Robert, 109
Tomato Sauce, 107
Velouté Sauce, 106
Venetian Sauce, 106
Vodka Sauce, 107
White Sauce, 105
White Wine and Cheese Sauce, 298
Marmalade, Citrus, 396
Mars, Forrest, Sr., 157
Mars, Frank C., 157
Marshmallows, 381
Marshmallows, Hot, 415
martinsite, 40
Mashed Potatoes, Rosemary, 212
Maslow, Abraham, 14
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child), 219
maturing flour, 252
Mayonnaise, 430–431
McFarlin, Patrick, 29
McGee, Harold
Baldwin on, 327
on salt-rising bread, 272
on solving food mysteries, 438–439
website, 359
on whisking egg whites, 291
mcmaster.com, 349
measurements
converting to metric, 11
error tolerances in, 258
Scoville scale, 80
“to taste”, 11
volume versus weight, 50
measuring cups and spoons, 51
Meatballs, Belgian, 185
meats
Beef Steak Tips, 335
Belgian Meatballs, 185
Brisket, 48-Hour, 336
Butterflied Roast Chicken, 218–219
Chicken Kiev, 436
Chicken, Smoked Paprika, Chickpea, and Cilantro, 28
collagen in, 195–204
cutting boards and, 44
dry aging, 165
Duck Confit, 200–201
environmentally sound, 115
food safety and, 171–172, 182–183, 186, 200, 355
heat transfer and doneness, 139–141
heat transfer methods, 142
key temperatures in cooking, 162–169, 195–204
Oven-Cooked Barbecue Ribs, 405
Pork Chops, Stuffed with Roasted Poblano and Cheddar Cheese, 66–67
pressure cooking, 309
Pulled Pork Under Pressure, 312
Quick Pan Gravy, 413
rigor mortis and, 162–163
Short Ribs, Slow-cooked, 203
Skirt Steak, Buttermilk-Marinated, 167
sous vide cooking, 322, 327, 332–336
Steak, Pan-Seared, 140
Steak Tartare with Poached Egg, 174
storage tips, 186
temperatures for doneness, 166
tenderizing, 165
mechanical agitation (kneading), 249, 261
mechanical filtration, 347–351
mechanical leaveners, 289–301
about, 289
egg whites. See egg whites
egg yolks. See egg yolks
steam, 236–238
medieval recipes, 20
melting point
of fats, 148–161
techniques to identify, 222
menthol, 79
menu planning for dinner parties, 30
meringues
about, 293
Chocolate Port Cake, 295
Coconut Macaroons, 294
French Meringue, 293
Italian Meringue, 293
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
Meringue Cookies, 294
methodical (cooking style), 9
methylcellulose, 414
metric, converting to, 11
milling flour, 252
Mindless Eating (Wansink), 8, 101
Minestrone Soup, 106
Mints, Peppermint Chocolate, 81
miracle berries, 71
miraculin, 71
mise en place technique, 11
Miso Soup, 77
mixtures, 379–381
Mock Apple Pie, 96
modernist cuisine
defined, 372
Myhrvold on, 372–373
moist heat methods, 141–142
moisture
FAT TOM acronym, 175, 177, 384
seized chocolate and, 159
mold making, 340–346
molds
food safety and, 170
Wolfe on, 434–435
molecular conformation, 138
molecular gastronomy
defined, 372
This on, 390–392
monellin (protein), 69
monocalcium phosphate, 286
monosaccharides, 283
monosodium glutamate (MSG), 76–78, 383, 395, 397
monounsaturated fats, 150
Monster Kitchen (TV show), 344
Monterey Bay Aquarium, 115
Mornay Sauce, 105
mother dough, 272
Mousse, Chocolate, 301, 313, 315
Mozzarella cheese
Fresh Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
making, 433
Mozzarella Spheres, 427
MSG (monosodium glutamate), 76–78, 383, 395, 397
Munroe, Randall, 50
mushrooms
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
sautéeing, 359
savory taste in, 76
musky odor, 93
Mussels, Pan-Seared, with Butter and Shallots, 67
Mustard Sauce, 105
Myhrvold, Nathan, 372–373
myofibrillar proteins, 164–166
myosin
about, 164
sous vide cooking and, 321, 334
N
National Organic Program (NOP), 122
nebulin, 164
nerd (venn diagram), 1
Nestle, Marion, 376
neutralizing odors
cutting boards, 44
off-smelling amino compounds, 56
nitrite, 384
nitrous oxide, 313
Noisette Sauce, 108
No-Knead Bread, 261
No-Knead Pizza Dough, 271–272
nonpolar molecules, 398
nonstarch polysaccharides, 254
nonstick pans, 45
nootkatone, 97
NOP (National Organic Program), 122
norovirus, 175
North African cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
rice porridge, 22
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
NSRDEC, 412
nut allergies, 449
O
oats
Oat and Egg White Frittata with Fruit, 13
steel-cut, 12
odor affect, 87
oils
bacteria and, 175
egg whites and, 290
heat transfer rate, 142
infused, 401–402
key temperatures in cooking, 148–161
pressure frying and, 310–311
sous vide cooking and, 322
oleic acid
in cocoa butter, 159
example of, 150–151
fatty acid profile, 152
smoke point, 153
olfactory fatigue, 92
olfactory sense. See smell (olfactory sense)
olive oil
fatty acid profile, 152
key temperatures for, 153
oleic acid and, 151
Olive Oil Poached Salmon, 168
Olives, Roasted Green, 31
omega-3 fatty acid, 151
omega-6 fatty acid, 151
onions
crying from, 39
One-Hour French Onion Soup, 38–39
Roasted Glazed Carrots with Red Onions, 230
storage tips, 120
Orange, Brownies in an, 32
order of operations in recipes, 11
O’Reilly, Tim, 288
Oreo Cookies, 377
organic foods, 122–124
organoleptic tests, 80
orthonasal olfaction, 98
Oskay, Windell, 341
osmazome, 76
osmosis in food, 384, 386, 392
oven overclocking, 371
ovens
calibrating, 35
calibrating using sugar, 36
Crispy Oven Kale Chips, 353
improving recovery time, 35
tips for altitude, 238
oven spring, 237
ovomucin, 193
ovotransferrin, 189
oxygen
about, 243
bacterial growth and, 175
FAT TOM acronym, 175
liquid nitrogen and, 361
yeast and, 266
oyster knife, 40
P
palate cleansers, 60
palmitic acid
in butter, 154
in cocoa butter, 159
example of, 150
fatty acid profile, 152
pancakes
Buttermilk Pancakes, 278
cream whippers and, 313
Crepes, 251
Internet Average Pancakes, 10
pan searing
Cumin and Salt Seared Tuna, 169
Pan-Seared Mussels with Butter and Shallots, 67
Pan-Seared Steak, 140
Slow-cooked Short Ribs, 203
Papin, Denis, 309
parasites
foodborne illnesses and, 183–184
survival temperatures, 170
par-baking pizza, 268–269
paring knife, 37
Parkerson, Stephen, 95
parma torte, 20
Parmesan cheese
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
Parmesan, Fennel, and Portobello Mushroom Salad, 114
pasta dishes
Duck Confit in, 202
Mac ‘n Cheese, 105
Minestrone Soup, 106
Penne alla Vodka, 107
pressure cookers and, 311
pasteurization
bacteria and, 186
defined, 173
eggs and, 329
hold times and, 180
sous vide cooking and, 325, 329–330, 332
vacuum sealing and, 320
Pasteur, Louis, 262
pastry chefs, 221–223, 302–303
A Pattern Language (Alexander), 27
peaches, storage tips, 119
peanut allergies, 449
Pears, Poached, 210
Peas à la Française, 25
pectin
improving mouthfeel, 418
making, 420
making jam, 419
sous vide cooking and, 321
starchy vegetables and, 206
Penicillium camemberti, 435
Penicillium nalgiovense, 435
Penne alla Vodka, 107
Pépin, Jacques, 24–25
Peppermint Chocolate Mints, 81
pepperminty odor, 93
Pepper Sauce, 109
perfluoroocanoic acid (PFOA), 45
Perfumer’s Compendium (Allured), 93
Peshardt, William, 426
PFOA (perfluoroocanoic acid), 45
phase transitions, 136, 152, 306
phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), 61
pH scale
about, 273–274
adjusting water for baking, 241–242, 250
Dutching process and, 157
food preservation and, 384
meat and, 162
phyllo dough
about, 247
Pistachio Chocolate Baklava, 256
pickles
contaminated after cooking, 389
Pickle and Strawbery Relish, 129
Pickles, Bread-and-Butter Quick, 388–389
picric acid, 72
pies
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
Mock Apple Pie, 96–97
Pie Dough, 258–259
pinch as measurement, 11, 56, 65
pinhead oats, 12
Piquante Sauce, 109
Pistachio Chocolate Baklava, 256
pizza, 267–271
high-heat ovens and, 305, 370–371
No-Knead Pizza Dough, 271
par-baking, 268
Varasano on, 269–270
Yeast-Free Pizza Dough, 286
plasmolysis, 386
plaster of Paris, 341
plasticity of fat, 154
plastic storage bags, 323
plating food, 32–33
plums, storage tips, 119
1-p-methene-8-thiol, 97
poaching. See also sous vide cooking
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Lardons, 75
Olive Oil Poached Salmon, 168
Poached Eggs, 193
Poached Pears, 210
Steak Tartare with Poached Egg, 174
Poivrade Sauce, 109
polysaccharides, 205, 416, 423
polyunsaturated fats, 150, 151
pomegranate, seperating seeds out of, 114
Popovers, 239
popping popcorn, 307
poppy seed bagels, 16
pork
pressure cooking, 309
Pulled Pork Under Pressure, 312
Roasted Poblano and Cheddar Cheese Stuffed Pork Chops, 66–67
temperatures for doneness, 166
Portobello Mushroom, Fennel, and Parmesan Salad, 114
postmortem proteolysis, 162
potassium bicarbonate, 273
potassium bitartrate, 96
potassium chloride, 64
potatoes
cooking, 206
cooking in dishwasher, 326
food safety and, 178
Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, 212
Skillet-Fried Potatoes, 216
storage tips, 120
pots and pans, 45–47
hot spots, 46–47
organizing, 26
pan searing and, 169
recovery time for, 140
thermal conductivity of, 46–47, 142
types of, 45
Poulette Sauce, 106
poultry. See meats
pour point (fats), 153
Powdered Brown Butter, 417
Powell, Doug, 178–179
Pralus, George, 320
prepping ingredients, 11
presentation and plating food, 32–33, 102, 121
preserving foods
Bread-and-Butter Quick Pickles, 388–389
Candied Orange Rind, 396
Citrus Marmalade, 396
dehydration, 352–353
osmosis and, 386
Preserved Lemons, 387
Salmon Gravlax, 385
with salt, 382–389
with sugar, 384
pressure cooking, 308–312
collagen and, 195
convention method and, 145
cream whippers and, 314
Khichdi, 311
Maillard reaction and, 215
pros and cons, 309–310
Pulled Pork Under Pressure, 312
tips and tricks, 310–311
pressure frying, 310
probe thermometers, digital, 35, 49, 183, 324
produce. See vegetables
Project Gutenberg, 20
proofing, defined, 263
PROP (propylthiouracil), 61
propylthiouracil (PROP), 61
protein denaturation
collagen, 148, 165, 195–204, 327
defined, 138
in eggs, 189–191
sous vide cooking and, 320
yogurt and, 73
proteins
about, 138
controlling gluten formation, 248
FAT TOM acronym and, 175
in fish and meats, 162–169
food allergies and, 445
hydrophobic, 189
in wheat flour, 254
PTC (phenylthiocarbamide), 61
Puff Pastry Squares or Twists, 31
Pulled Pork Under Pressure, 312–313
Pumpkin Cake, 287
punching down dough, 264
pungent/hot (taste), 58–59
pungent odor, 93
putrid odor, 93
PyroCeram, 371
pyrolysis, 404
Q
quenching (steel), 41
Quick Pan Gravy, 413
quinine, 74
Quinn’s Crème Brûlée, 368
quinoa
gluten sensitivies and, 246
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
R
radiation (heat transfer), 144, 145, 186
Raper, Buck, 40–42
raspberries, storage tips, 120
rate of reaction
evaporation and, 353
perfect cookie experiment, 226–227
pressure cooking and, 309
sous vide cooking and, 321
temperature and, 136–137, 148, 172
recipes
adapting, 20–21
brief history of, 18–19
Civille on, 133
medieval, 20
order of operations in, 11
Pépin on, 25
reading thoroughly, 11
on Twitter, 19
recovery time
for ovens, 35
for pans, 140
recursion. See recursion.
Red Onions, Roasted Glazed Carrots with, 230
reducing sugars, 213
regional/traditional method (flavor combinations), 21
Relish, Pickle and Strawberry, 129
rennet, 432
reproduction stage (yeast), 266
respiration stage (yeast), 266
retronasal olfaction, 98
reverse spherification, 427
rice
about, 22
Congee, 22
cooking, 207
food safety and, 177
gluten sensitivies and, 246
Khichdi, 311
rice vinegar, 177
Riley, Addison, 17
rising agents. See leaveners
roasting
Butterflied Roast Chicken, 218–219
Oven-Roasted Eggs, 194
Roasted Beet Salad, 121
Roasted Glazed Carrots with Red Onions, 230
Roasted Green Olives, 31
Roasted Poblano and Cheddar Cheese Stuffed Pork Chops, 66–67
Salt-Roasted Fish with Lemon and Herbs, 147
vegetables, 232
Roca, Joan, 329
rolled oats, 12
Rombauer, Irma, 18
root vegetables, cooking, 206
Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, 212
rotovaps (rotary evaporators), 358–360
Rozin, Paul, 98
Ruhlman, Michael, 303
S
saccharides, 254
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, 262
Saccharomyces pastorianus, 262
salad dishes
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
Fresh Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Lardons, 75
Roasted Beet Salad, 121
Salade Lyonnaise, 75
Summer Watermelon and Feta Cheese Salad, 85
salmon
cooking in dishwasher, 326
Salmon Gravlax, 385
Salmon Poached in Olive Oil, 168
Salmonella
count required, 179
cutting boards and, 44
die off temperatures, 329
on potatoes, 178
rates of reproduction, 171
salt concentrations and, 386
survival temperatures, 172–173
time between ingestion and symptoms, 178
USDA guidelines and, 171
salt
adjusting for water hardness, 241
balancing tastes with, 60
boiling point of water and, 238, 242, 306
in brines, 232
Cumin and Salt Seared Tuna, 169
as flavor enhancer, 16, 56, 65
as food additive, 376
food safety and, 386
gluten formation and, 250
as heat shield, 147
Lancaster on, 232
lethal dose, 382
Maillard reaction and, 214
making ice cream with, 394–395
neutralizing bitterness, 56
osmosis and, 386
poaching eggs and, 193
as preservative, 382–385
Preserved Lemons, 387
Salmon Gravlax, 385
Salt-Roasted Fish with Lemon and Herbs, 147
taste receptors and, 58–59
toxicity of, 64
salt-rising bread, 272
salt roasting, 147
salt water, calibrating freezers using, 244–245
salty (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 65
cravings for, 64
masking bitterness, 74
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
Sanders, Harland, 310
Santoku knife, 37
sarcoplasmic proteins, 163
saturated fats, 150
sauce Béarnaise syndrome, 100
saucepans, 45
sauces. See marinades and sauces
sautéeing
cooking tips, 207
mushrooms, 359
Sautéed Greens with Sesame Seeds, 209
sauté pans, 51
Savage, Adam, 16–17
Savage, Riley, 17
savory (taste). See umami (taste)
scales, digital weight, 258
scallops
Bacon-Wrapped Scallops, 437
Scallop Ceviche, 176
Seared Scallops, 220
SC Johnson, 323
Scones, 288
Scoville scale, 80
Scoville, Wilber, 80
scrambled eggs
Scrambled Eggs, Foamed, 315
Scrambled Eggs, Slow, 194
Scully, Eleanor and Terence, 20
seafood. See fish and seafood
Seafood Watch, 115
searing
Cumin and Salt Seared Tuna, 169
heat transfer in, 145
Maillard reaction and, 214
Pan-Seared Mussels with Butter and Shallots, 67
Pan-Seared Steak, 140
Seared Scallops, 220
seasonality
growing seasons charts, 112–113
inspiration by, 112–124
understanding, 88
seaweed, 76
Seeded Crackers, 253
Seitan, Savory Baked, with Spicy String Beans, 257
seized chocolate, 159
sensory analysis, 84
serving bowls, food as, 32
Sesame Seeds, Sautéed Greens with, 209
sharpening knives, 41–43
shear thinning, 409
shortening, 153
Short Ribs, Slow-cooked, 203
Shrimp Scampi, Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with, 53
side dishes. See appetizers and sides
silicone rubber molds, 341, 344
silicone spatulas, 48
silverskin, 195
Skillet-Fried Potatoes, 216
Skirt Steak, Buttermilk-Marinated, 167
Slim by Design (Wansink), 101
Slow-cooked Short Ribs, 203
smart (venn diagram), 1
smell (olfactory sense), 89–97
about, 89–91
age-related differences, 92
air pressure impact on, 95
chemicals of common aromas, 97
Civille on, 132–133
crossover, 92
describing, 93–95
difference between taste and, 57
experimenting with flavors, 130–131
genetic differences and, 91
olfactory fatigue, 92
physiology of smell and taste, 92
smoke point (fats), 153
S’more Ice Cream, 405
Snickerdoodles, Cinnamon, 225
socially clueless (venn diagram), 1
sodium alginate, 426–427
sodium aluminum sulfate, 286
sodium bicarbonate. See baking soda
sodium carbonate, 241
sodium chloride. See salt
sodium ion, 64–65
sodium laurel sulfate, 60
soft water, 240–242
soup recipes
Basic White Stock, 350
Butternut Squash Soup, 110
Butternut Squash Soup, Fall, 118
French Onion Soup, One-Hour, 38–39
Gazpacho Soup, 117
Lemon Lentil Soup, 19
Minestrone Soup, 106
Miso Soup, 77
Springtime Lettuce Soup, 116
stocks for. See stocks
Winter White Bean and Garlic Soup, 116
Sour Cream, Homemade, 155
Sourdough Starter, 272
sour (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 72
confusing with bitter taste, 74
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
sous vide cooking, 320–339
about, 320–322
Baldwin on, 327–329
Beef Steak Tips, 335
Brisket, 48-Hour, 336
chicken and other poultry, 332–333
chocolate, 339
cooking in dishwasher, 326
Dishwasher Poached Apples, 326
fish and seafood, 329–331
food safety and, 325–329
fruits, 337–338
hardware requirements, 323
making a sous vide setup, 324
meats, 334–336
pasteurization and, 325, 329–330, 332
prepackaged foods, 331
root vegetables, 207
slow cookers versus, 333
vacuum packers, 323
vegetables, 337–338
Sous Vide Cuisine (Roca), 329
Southeast Asian cuisine, 63, 111
soy allergies, 449
soy lecithin, 377
Spanish cuisine
flavorful ingredients by culture, 111
Gazpacho, 117
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
spatulas, silicone, 48
specific heat, 46–47
spherification technique, 418, 426–427
spices
blooming in, 399
Civille on, 132–133
Cumin and Salt Seared Tuna, 169
Khichdi, 311
Smoked Paprika, Chickpea, and Cilantro Chicken, 28
spicy/hot (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 80
genetic taste differences, 61
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
spilanthol, 79
squid
sous vide cooking and, 329
Tomato, Herb, and Squid Bruschetta, 199
stability (egg white foams), 290
stainless steel bowls, 291–292
stainless steel knives, 41
stainless steel pans, 169
stamped blades (knives), 37
Staphylococcus, 386
starches
breaking down in vegetables, 205–212
caramelization and, 223
Lemon Meringue Pie, 411
thickeners, 408–417
in wheat flour, 254
steaks
Beef Steak Tips, 335
Buttermilk-Marinated Skirt Steak, 167
Pan-Seared Steak, 140
salt brine for, 232
Steak Tartare with Poached Egg, 174
testing tenderness, 16
steam
cooking eggs, 193
heat transfer and, 142
as mechanical leavener, 236–238
as phase transition, 136
Popovers, 239
pressure cookers and, 311
Quick-Steamed Asparagus, 208
tips for altitude, 238
steel-cut oats, 12
steel (knives), 37
stevioside compound family, 69
Stewart, Jon, 179
Stewart, Martha, 258
stick blenders, 48
stirring versus whisking, 292
stockpots, 45
stocks
Basic White Stock, 350
clarifying, 349
drip-thawing, 351
Maillard reactions and, 215
making in pressure cookers, 311
savory taste and, 76–77
storage tips
for butter, 155
for perishable foods, 119–120, 186
for shelf stable food, 175
strainers, 51
strawberries
Pickle and Strawbery Relish, 129
storage tips, 120
Streptococcus thermophiles, 73
Streptomyces mobaraensis, 436
stromal proteins, 164–165
structural proteins, 164–165, 195
substance P, 79
success, definition of, 15
sucrose
about, 68–69
as food additive, 376
hydrolysis and, 221–223
latent heat of, 229
sucrose inversion, 221
sugar(s)
baking with yeast and, 241–242
Bread-and-Butter Quick Pickles, 388–389
calibrating oven using, 36
Candied Orange Rind, 396
in cereals, 12
chocolate and, 157
Citrus Marmalade, 396
egg whites and, 291
as flavor enhancers, 56
as food additives, 376
gluten formation and, 249
Maillard reaction and, 213
Marshmallows, 381
Marshmallows, Hot, 415
nutritional labels on, 69
osmosis and, 386
pectin and, 418
as preservatives, 384
reducing, 213
removing taste of, 393
Sugar Cone Bowls for Ice Cream, 342–343
Sugar Cookies, 224–225
Sugar Swizzle Sticks, 356–357
taste receptors and, 58, 68–69
thermally decomposing, 221
Super Envision product, 393
supertasting, 86
suprathreshold, 59
surface contamination, 169, 182, 184
suspensions, 380
Sweet Potato Fries, Grilled, 211
sweet (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 69
artichokes and, 71
flavor preferences, 60
masking bitterness, 74
sodium ion and, 64–65
taste adaptation and, 60
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
temperature and, 61
Swiss chard, 120
Syrup, Ginger, 70
T
Tacos (Fish), with Pickle and Strawberry Relish, 129
Talbot, Alex, 315
tannic acid, 423
tapeworms, 183
tartaric acid, 286
tart (taste). See sour (taste)
taste adaptation, 60
taste aversions, 100
taste buds, 58
taste (gustatory sense), 58–88
adjusting seasonings, 60
air pressure impact on, 95
balancing, 59–60
Bartoshuk on, 86–87
bitter. See bitter (taste)
Civille on, 132–133
cultural upbringing and, 60, 74
defined, 56
difference between smell and, 57
envionmental factors and, 60–61
experimenting with flavors, 130–131
flavor preferences, 60
genetic differences and, 61, 82–83
mixing tastes, 87
organic, local, conventional foods, 122–123
physiology of smell and taste, 61–62
pleasure and, 86–87
salty. See salty (taste)
savory. See umami (taste)
sour. See sour (taste)
spicy/hot. See spicy/hot (taste)
sweet. See sweet (taste)
taste adaptation, 60
taste sensitivity, 59
umami. See umami (taste)
taste sensitivity, 59
tautomers, 68
temperature controllers, 324
temperature gradients, 139–141, 143
temperature(s). See also key temperatures in cooking
for baking reactions, 138
boiling point of water, 238, 242, 306
for caramelization, 138, 221–230
of common reactions, 138
cooking at extreme, 305, 367–371
familiarizing feel of, 34
FAT TOM acronym, 175
for Maillard reaction, 138, 213–220
for making chocolate, 158
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
for protein denaturation, 138, 162–169
rate of reaction and, 136–137, 148, 172
sous vide cooking and, 320–321, 327
time and, 135–233
wet heat methods, 143
tempering chocolate, 157–160, 339
tenderizing meats, 165
testing
homemade jam, 419
positive for drugs, 16
Savage on, 16–17
steak tenderness, 16
Texas A&M University, 362
texture, food, 165, 322, 412–413
Thai cooking, 80
Theobroma cacao plant, 157, 159
thermal conductivity of metals, 46–47, 142
thermal death time, 172
thermal energy, 46–47
thermal hydrolysis, 197
thermal radiation, 35
thermocouples, 324
thermo-grilling, 414
thermometers
digital probe, 35, 49, 183, 324
tempering chocolate, 158
thermoreversibility, 414
thickeners, 408–417
about, 408–409
arrowroot, 409–411
cornstarch, 409–411
maltodextrin, 416–417
methylcellulose, 414
This, Hervé, 390–392
thixotropy, 409
3D printing, 340
time and temperature, 135–233. See also chemical reactions
about, 136–138
Duck Confit and, 200
FSIS guidelines, 180
heat transfer, 139–141
as key variables in cooking, 305
Potter’s kitchen tips, 440
sous vide cooking and, 321, 327
time (FAT TOM acronym), 175
Tiramisu, 19
titin, 164
tomatoes
analyzing country of origin, 243
Fresh Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
peeling, 117
savory taste in, 76
storage tips, 119
Tomato, Herb, and Squid Bruschetta, 199
Tomato Sauce, 107
tongs, 48
Top Chef (tv show), 25
toxins
bacteria and, 173
Botox and, 175
food producers and, 170
sous vide cooking and, 325
trans fats, 151
transglutaminase, 436–437
tree nut allergies, 449
trichinosis, 67
trichomoniasis, 183
triglycerides
about, 148
in cocoa butters, 159
possible crystalline structures, 150
tempering chocolate and, 157
Tuna, Cumin and Salt Seared, 169
Twitter recipes, 19
U
umami (taste)
adjusting seasonings, 78
flavor preferences, 60
genetic taste differences, 61
Seitan, Savory Baked, with Spicy String Beans, 257
tasty ingredients by culture, 63
Underwriters Laboratories, 308
United Nations, 378
unit of measurement. See measurements
unsaturated fats, 150
UPSIT test, 131
USDA (United States Department of Agriculture)
Food Safety and Inspection Service, 172, 180, 325
food safety recommendations, 172, 180
on refrigerator pickles, 389
testing tenderness of steak, 16
V
vacuum systems. See also sous vide cooking
about, 317
low-pressure tricks, 317–318
vacuum packers, 323
vadouvan, 110
Vanilla Custard, 192
Vanilla Extract, 400
vanillin, as food additive, 91, 92, 377
Varasano, Jeff, 269–270
vegemite, 77
vegetables
artichokes, cooking, 70
Asparagus, Quick-Steamed, 208
Basil, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad, 114
Belgian Endive, Broiled, 75
Butternut Squash Soup, Fall, 118
Butternut Squash Soup, Vadouvan, 110
cooking approaches, 207
environmentally sound, 115
Fennel, Portobello Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad, 114
food safety and, 179, 182, 200
Gazpacho Soup, Summertime, 117
Grilled Summer Vegetables, 211
Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, 211
Grilled Vegetables, 211
growing seasons chart, 113
Kale Chips, Crispy Oven, 353
key temperatures for cooking, 205–212
Lemony Quinoa and Asparagus with Shrimp Scampi, 53
Lettuce Soup, Springtime, 116
Minestrone Soup, 106
Peas à la Française, 25
pressure cooking, 311
Roasted Beet Salad, 121
Roasted Glazed Carrots with Red Onions, 230
roasting, 232
Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, 212
Sautéed Greens with Sesame Seeds, 209
sautéeing mushrooms, 359
Skillet-Fried Potatoes, 216
sous vide cooking, 337–338
starch levels in, 205–212
tomatoes, peeling, 117
vegetarian main dishes. See also salad dishes
Khichdi, 311
Lancaster on, 232
Mac ‘n Cheese, 105
Penne alla Vodka, 107
Seitan, Savory Baked, with Spicy String Beans, 257
Velouté Sauce, 106
Venetian Sauce, 106
vinegar. See also acetic acid
as flavor enhancer, 16
hard water and, 240–241
poaching eggs and, 193
as preservative, 382
viscosity of dough, 249
vital wheat gluten, 257
vitamin C, 72
Vodka Sauce, 107
volatile compounds, 56, 89–91, 314
volume versus weight (measurement), 50
W
Waffles, Yeast, 267
Walshin, Lydia, 110
water baths. See sous vide cooking
water chemistry
air, hot air, and power of steam, 236–238
analyzing, 243
baking and, 240–242
boiling point of water, 238, 242, 306, 308–309
calibrating freezers, 244–245
egg white stability, 291
error tolerances in baking, 258–259
freezing point of water, 244–245, 306
gluten formation and, 250
heat transfer rate, 142
minerals in water, 240–241
sous vide cooking. See sous vide cooking
tips for altitude, 238
water as solvent, 398
water in butter, 154
water hardness, 240–241
Watermelon and Feta Cheese Salad, 85
Waters, Alice, 302
weighing ingredients, 49–50
weight scales, digital, 258
wet heat methods, 141–142
wet separations, 347–357
about, 347–348
centrifuges in the kitchen, 351–352, 359
crystallization, 356–357
distillation, 360
drying, 352–353
mechanical filtration, 347–351
rotovaps, 360
Sugar Swizzle Sticks, 356–357
What to Eat (Nestle), 376
What We Eat When We Eat Alone (Madison), 29
wheat gluten, 248
whetstones, 43
whipped cream, 300–301
about, 300
Chantilly Cream, 301
controlling ingredients for, 313
cream whippers, 313–316
as mechanical leavener, 300–301
whisks, 292
White Bean and Garlic Soup, 116
white chocolate, 160
White Sauce, 105
White Wine and Cheese Sauce, 298
Wiechmann, Tim, 121
wild fermentation method, 272
wine
cooking with, 99
describing smells, 93
filtering with isinglass, 349
pairing difficulty with artichokes, 71
White Wine and Cheese Sauce, 298–299
Zabaglione, 298–299
Winkel, Kristi, 446
Wolfe, Benjamin, 434–435
Wolfram|Alpha, 11
wood, autoignition point, 153
World Health Organization, 69, 378
Y
yeast, 262–271
about, 262
in beverages, 262
in breads, 264–268
checking, 263
humidity and, 237
stages in cooking, 266
tips for altitude, 238
water hardness and, 241
water pH level and, 241–242
Yeast Waffles, 267
Yeast-Free Pizza Dough, 286
Yogurt, Homemade, 73
Z
Zabaglione, 298
zymase (enzyme), 267