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27
mode of creating extremely signifi-
cant fashion. Also known as tailoring,
this process of fashioning men’s suits
involves customized production, as in
the case of haute couture, although
today it exists alongside the industrial
methods of large distribution chains.
Fashion shows
Haute couture collections are exhib-
ited by way of fashion shows. Initially,
each house organized its own show
independently until the 1930s when
a common calendar was established.
Currently, the entity that regulates
fashion shows is the Fédération Fran-
çaise de la Couture, du Prêt-à-porter
des Couturiers et des Créateurs de
Mode (www.modeaparis.com), which
was created in 1973. Haute couture
shows are held in Paris twice a year,
always before prêt-à-porter shows, in
January for the spring-summer season
and in July for the fall-winter season.
PRÊT-À-PORTER
What is prêt-à-porter?
Prêt-à-porter is serialized production
with the added value of the concept
of fashion, that is, of change with each
new season. Emerging during World
War II in the United States, under
the name “ready to wear,” it gained
strength in the 1960s in tandem with
the figure of the fashion designer, who
planned collections for industrial pro-
duction, and the boutique, a new way
of selling clothes.
As far back as the 1920s, large Ameri-
can department stores had already
introduced the fashion factor into
© Raul Benegas. Design: Dominique Sirop. Haute couture SS 2009
(continued on p.30)
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FIELD GUIDE: HOW TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER
© Raoul Benegas. Couturier: Franck Sorbier. Haute couture SS 2009
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© Raoul Benegas. Couturier: Franck Sorbier. Haute couture SS 2009
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FIELD GUIDE: HOW TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER
their production departments, aimed
at the general public with simplifica-
tions inspired by haute couture. World
War II isolated Paris, and the United
States was forced to create its own
style. The American look was inspired
by designer Claire McCardell, who
created her collections based on the
concept of combinable garments to
be serially reproduced for the general
public, thus giving rise to “ready to
wear.” In 1949, the French translation
prêt-à-porter appeared, and Robert
Weill and Albert Lempereur, the two
most important French clothes manu-
facturers of the period, created their
own brands, associating them with
the term prêt-à-porter.
Along with this new method of creat-
ing industrialized fashion, a new way
of buying clothes was born. The bou-
tique, or fashion shop, first appeared
in London with Mary Quant’s Bazaar
(1955) and John Stephen’s His Clothes
(1958), a phenomenon that grew in
the 1960s with the triumph of youth
fashion. Within these shops, a new
protocol for selling emerged, one that
remains in place today: background
music, the importance of shop win-
dows, salespeople wearing the same
clothes they are selling, dressing
rooms, immediate accessibility to
articles, etc.
© Olivia Hemus. Design: CYBÉLE
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© Christopher Moore. Design: Ziad Ghanem
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